#1
Posted 05 November 2010 - 12:36 AM
The plunger shafts consists of a length of 1/2" oak dowel. You could use drilled and tapped nylon as well. The plunger head is Dizzy's version of the standard Superlative, with a 1 1/2" disc of wood which has one edge beveled acting as the catch ramp.
You could substitute 1/4" plastic sheeting, if you liked. It has a 1/2" hole in the center, so it fits around the plunger rod and auto-centers. The sled is a 3/4" T fitting, which has a 5/8"-wide section cut out at the top. 2 5/8"x16" dowels are attached via 3/4" #6 bolts, the heads of which are countersunk into the wood. The bolts fit flush with the inside of the T, eliminating the need for any slots, etc. The push plate at the rear is a 2 1/2" section of 3x1 oak, with a 3'4" hole drilled in it, the midpoint of which is 1/2" from the upper edge.
The blaster body is a standard SNAPbow, with a few modifications. The plunger tube is cut to 13", with the bushing nested completely inside the front of the gun. The bottom rail is extended by 3" or so, to accommodate the foregrip.
The pump sled fits on thusly, with the back of the plunger getting topped off with a screw, a washer, and an "I fucked up the length of my plunger rod" spacer.
The stock is very wooden.
You can also field strip it with the sled on.
The spring rest is held in by 2 screws behind the rest.
Here's the complete gun, yo. It's super badass.
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#2
Posted 05 November 2010 - 02:13 AM
Edited by Stark, 05 November 2010 - 02:00 PM.
BITCHES GO CRAZY FOR RAINBOWS
#3
Posted 05 November 2010 - 04:59 AM
Tony Stark: Absolutely ridiculous. I don't paint.
#4
Posted 05 November 2010 - 07:02 AM
#5
Posted 05 November 2010 - 10:39 AM
Carbon: Yeah, it actually works about as well as the epoxy putty. It's more consistent, due to being cut rather than molded. I'd say it's a bit more durable over all; if you cut your pin too long, it will dent it, but it doesn't really seem as prone to gouging as either pvc or epoxy putty. Of course, as I noted in my writeup, if you're worried, you can easily substitute a bit of 1/4" polycarb sheeting--or hell, a circle cut from a large PVC plug or flat endcap. Even if the material isn't to your liking, the method works great.
PVC and Oak go together like 2 super compatible things.
<a href="http://nerfhaven.com...howtopic=20409" target="_blank">Make it pump-action</a>
#6
Posted 05 November 2010 - 11:15 AM
Stark: You are just made of class.
Edited by Daniel Beaver, 05 November 2010 - 11:20 AM.
#7
Posted 05 November 2010 - 11:22 AM
Oh yes. The additional wood parts make me want to go back and rebuild this for reals.PVC and Oak go together like 2 super compatible things.
Also, excellent use of the rounded endcap as the spring rest. I just realized that that will center the spring, so you won't have the end coil gouging your plunger rod. Nice!
#8
Posted 05 November 2010 - 11:57 AM
I've been dicking around with wood
I like dicking with wood too.
Kruger and Dunning (1999)
#9
Posted 05 November 2010 - 12:06 PM
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#10
Posted 05 November 2010 - 05:18 PM
Also, can you put up a parts list?
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#11
Posted 05 November 2010 - 06:57 PM
Hawkshot, one of the founding FL Nerfers.
#12
Posted 05 November 2010 - 07:06 PM
That's what she said.There's nothing classier than some nice firm wood.
Anyway, very nice gun. I wasn't sure if I was going to like the wood at the beginning, but once I got to the end i saw that it looks very nice.
#13
Posted 11 November 2010 - 05:08 PM
added that hilarious quote to my signature, while playing with my buttholeThere's nothing classier than some nice firm wood.
#14
Posted 13 November 2010 - 11:49 AM
He was just asking for that.added that hilarious quote to my signature, while playing with my buttholeThere's nothing classier than some nice firm wood.
#15
Posted 13 November 2010 - 12:26 PM
added that hilarious quote to my signature, while playing with my buttholeHe was just asking for that.added that hilarious quote to my signature, while playing with my buttholeThere's nothing classier than some nice firm wood.
Venom: Haven't we all?
#16
Posted 13 November 2010 - 12:42 PM
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#17
Posted 14 November 2010 - 04:15 PM
I'd sig that.... but somebody would get pissed and I'd get more time off then I needed.added that hilarious quote to my signature, while playing with my buttholeHe was just asking for that.added that hilarious quote to my signature, while playing with my buttholeThere's nothing classier than some nice firm wood.
Plus, I don't use sigs.
And slightly more on topic, do the other small improvements you made to this version of the Mk. V affect performance at all?
Edited by qwertyupp, 14 November 2010 - 04:19 PM.
#18
Posted 17 November 2010 - 02:24 AM
I have my doubts about all the wood in the construction, especially in the plunger shaft, i'm not sure it has the elasticity to withstand the abuse of a [k26] but I suppose time can only tell. The wooden catch ramp is pretty cool, I'm sure if the wood is hard enough it wouldn't have any durability problems, I wonder if it's actually easier or quicker than just smearing E-putty over an endcap and fender washer though.
I wonder if there's an appropriately sized finishing washer out there that could be affixed to the "superlative" plunger head so we could just avoid all this e-putty, pvc shaving, woodworking nonsense altogether and have something that could just be screwed together out of prefabricated parts. Metal catch face and metal catch ramp? fuck yeah.
But good job, pump action SNAPs are always sexy in my book. I'd like to hear how well the wooden parts hold up after a war or two.
#19
Posted 17 November 2010 - 10:56 AM
Hey...I got a crazy idea: how about you stop all that sigging stuff? It's not even my thread and it annoys me.
added that hilarious quote to my signature, while playing with my butthole.
Anyway, 'cause Talio scares me. I dig it, rork. A little too much wood for my taste, I like the familiarity of just using CPVC particularly for the plunger rod. Looks a lot like Fome's design. Once we get settled back here, I'll probably fool with some pump action designs I've been tossing around in my head and share. I've always wondered though, since I first saw the design when Fome posted it, how sturdy is the 90 between the priming bars and the rear plate with the hole through it to accommodate the plunger rod?
Hey...I got a crazy idea: how about you stop all that sigging stuff? It's not even my thread and it annoys me.
#20
Posted 17 November 2010 - 11:54 AM
This is neither quicker nor easier than the superlative plunger head; however, it's not that much more annoying to make, it uses fewer, cheaper parts, is lighter, and centers around the plunger rod, which is quite a useful attribute that my next build will depend heavily upon. Also, not all epoxy putty is created equal, and some people have trouble working it into a good catch ramp.
EDIT for DB: It's wicked strong. I used a big ol' chunk of oak, and really overbuilt the whole thing. That stress point is no problem at all, as long as you throw sufficient mass at it.
Edited by rork, 17 November 2010 - 11:56 AM.
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#21
Posted 18 November 2010 - 06:09 AM
Anyway, 'cause Talio scares me. I dig it, rork. A little too much wood for my taste, I like the familiarity of just using CPVC particularly for the plunger rod. Looks a lot like Fome's design. Once we get settled back here, I'll probably fool with some pump action designs I've been tossing around in my head and share. I've always wondered though, since I first saw the design when Fome posted it, how sturdy is the 90 between the priming bars and the rear plate with the hole through it to accommodate the plunger rod?
Like rork mentioned, an "overbuilt" (overly thick materials) pump sled will no doubt give you enough strength.
However, if you don't want something that's very bulky there's a couple of ways to make the bolt sled as inconspicuous as possible:
1.) Stronger materials: hardwood is tough to beat in terms of sheer economics and machinability, but a variety of rigid plastics or even metals could do the job while providing a drastic reduction in size and weight.
2.) Keep the transfer bars close and parallel to the source of the force. The closer the transfer bars are to the direction of the plunger path, the more the force of priming will travel down the strongest part of the wooden dowels, which is the length of the dowel. The transfer bars in my design literally physically slide against the recess made by the plunger tube and the wooden handle.
3.) Triangles: if you don't want to overbuild the plate that impacts the rear of the plunger shaft, use triangles to reinforce the joint by distributing force down the length of the dowel. A variety of methods could work here, from E-putty to metal angle brackets.
#22
Posted 18 November 2010 - 10:21 PM
I've always wanted a full wooden gun or at least a wooden shell.
#23
Posted 28 November 2010 - 03:19 PM
The wooden catch ramp is pretty cool, I'm sure if the wood is hard enough it wouldn't have any durability problems, I wonder if it's actually easier or quicker than just smearing E-putty over an endcap and fender washer though.
Just a little heads up: I built a wood catch ramp today and it's definitely alot more time consuming than smearing epoxy putty over the whole thing. With the proper tools, I'm sure it could go alot faster. I am using a cpvc plunger rod so I went with the typical plunger head. Therefore, I had to trace out the on oak board, trace the outside diameter of the 1-1/4" fender washer, then cut it out with the scroll saw. Very time consuming. As I was saying, if you used a wooden dowel for a plunger rod, you could drill out the middle with a spade bit and do the outer part of the circle with a hole saw. The other time consuming part was sanding it down and getting the proper angle. Since I was using oak board, it was difficult for my dremel to efficiently sand it (may be due to an old bit). Either way, I wouldn't really reccomend this method if you're using the typical superlative plunger head.
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#24
Posted 28 November 2010 - 06:00 PM
Also, stick that sumbitch in a vice and go to town on it with a 60 grit sanding drum. It's faster than mixing epoxy by a good bit.
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#25
Posted 28 November 2010 - 07:21 PM
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