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Nerf Homemade Automatic

I would like your input

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#26 BoltMasterZero

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Posted 16 April 2004 - 11:28 AM

Your plan looks great, but you said that the CO2 is cut off when you release the trigger.  That means you will need a very quick trigger finger to make sure you dont release all the CO2 in one shot.

As this design is only for a semi-auto I plan to use a trigger mechanism similar to Boltsnipers setup on his CO2 rifle. That way once the trigger is pulled all the way back the CO2 is shut off. By the way does anyone know if it would be possible to use a full-auto paintball marker valve? If it could be adated that could transform it into full-auto. Although that would spoil all the fun of figuring out how to create short bursts of pressure..
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#27 Vintage

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Posted 16 April 2004 - 03:21 PM

By the way does anyone know if it would be possible to use a full-auto paintball marker valve? If it could be adated that could transform it into full-auto. Although that would spoil all the fun of figuring out how to create short bursts of pressure..

A full auto piantball gun valve would create the pulses of CO2 needed for an automatic nerf gun. However I dont think the piston used to chamber each paintball could be modified to chamber a much longer nerf stefan.

And I don't understand why someone would buy a $200+ paintball marker just for making a nerf automatic.

Your idea for a semi-auto, however, seems sound, but it could be a painful weapon. (Similar to boltsniper's) I don't see it ever being used in a war.

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So, anyways, after about a half dozen calls, I finally found a hobby shop close by. I should now be able to purchase the brass and springs tonight. I have my weekend cut out for me...

~Vintage
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#28 BoltMasterZero

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Posted 16 April 2004 - 03:40 PM

A full auto piantball gun valve would create the pulses of CO2 needed for an automatic nerf gun. However I dont think the piston used to chamber each paintball could be modified to chamber a much longer nerf stefan.

And I don't understand why someone would buy a $200+ paintball marker just for making a nerf automatic.

Your idea for a semi-auto, however, seems sound, but it could be a painful weapon. (Similar to boltsniper's) I don't see it ever being used in a war.

I was just thinking of using the valve and not the whole marker. Although you are right I don't know why someone would pay so much money to make a nerf gun fully automatic. I certainly wouldn't. Its just an idea however unpractical it is. Then again if theres anyone out there whos willing to pay $200 to make a full-auto nerf gun go on ahead. Yes it would be a painful weapon. :lol: But most nerf wars don't allow any homemades anyway.

The section that pushes the dart into the barrel seems to be oddly shaped.

It's cut in half so that no more than 1 dart can be in the barrel at the same time.

Edited by BoltMasterZero, 16 April 2004 - 03:46 PM.

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#29 Vintage

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Posted 16 April 2004 - 03:43 PM

:lol: But most nerf wars don't allow any homemades anyway.

I allow Nerf homemades in my wars. But then again, I only ever really do 3 on 3 games. So all the people I know really well, and I know their guns really well. And actually, I am the only one who posesses a homemade anyways ^_^ .
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#30 Vintage

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Posted 21 April 2004 - 08:53 PM

Ok, I bought all the brass and springs over the weekend and started to assemble the thing.

I used Plumber's Goop to bond the pieces together. Bad choice. Even after 48 hours of curing, the pieces fell apart after puting the spring pressure up against it.

Back to square one... What type of bonding would you guys recommend? I do have some solder and a blowtorch, but that will be hard to work with. I might have a soldering iron somewhere in the garage. If this is my best bet, I will use solder. But, is there any alternative?

I have decided that my old design really has too much surface area that has to slide. This could potentially cause problems with friction which might also heat the exterior up.

Here's my new design: It's the same as before but with both spring sections overlapping.

Posted Image

Now I just have to run out and get some proper sized O-rings and start at it.

~Vintage
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#31 ompa

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Posted 21 April 2004 - 08:55 PM

soldering is strong enough to stand up to the pressure.. I'm pretty sure anyways. But what kind of spring is that? It has to be pretty strong to break plumber's goop bond or epoxy.

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#32 Vintage

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Posted 21 April 2004 - 09:01 PM

It's actually not that strong a spring. I think either I might not have used enough plumbers goop, or the stuff I have isn't strong enough.

It didn't break till after I tested out the stength a couple of times. Maybe I just didn't use enough plumber's goop. It's kind of hard to put alot on the parts. Brass is very thin, so there is not much room for the goop to cover. That's why I think I will in the end have to go with solder. ;)

~Vintage

Edited by Vintage, 21 April 2004 - 09:01 PM.

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#33 Zero Talent

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Posted 23 April 2004 - 02:18 PM

Yeah, I don't really trust Plumber's Goop too much with metal, personally. It does bond, but not incredibly well. I'd rather go with a good epoxy... I've had some good experience with Supermend Epoxy (also under the Goop brand name, seals well), and I'm sure their Marine Epoxy would work fairly well too. Biggest thing, as you said, is surface area.

But I'd go with the soldering if I were you. I hear it's a lot stronger.

Also, another question, and I'm sorry if you've already answered this: How do you intend on getting the right spring strengths? Are you going by empirical testing, or are you calculating required forces beforehand?
The hardest part, I find, with any conceptual design is the material specification, and finding the right spring amongst the wad of presets offered at hardware stores I'm sure is (or was, in this case) challenging.
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#34 Vintage

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Posted 23 April 2004 - 05:19 PM

Also, another question, and I'm sorry if you've already answered this: How do you intend on getting the right spring strengths? Are you going by empirical testing, or are you calculating required forces beforehand?
The hardest part, I find, with any conceptual design is the material specification, and finding the right spring amongst the wad of presets offered at hardware stores I'm sure is (or was, in this case) challenging.

This question is easy to answer:

1. The small spring should have very light tension, only enough to return the seal to the piston after the shot.

2. The large spring will determine the amount of air pressure released (stronger the spring, the higher air power, but less ROF).

I haven't bought the springs yet, because after the plumbers goop failed on me, I decided to go with a different blueprint. I need to go get the new springs tonight.

I am not going to work any large equations do determine the spring, I am just going to get a spring that is the right diameter, with sufficient tension.

~Vintage
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