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Hopper Clip Improvements

A hopper designed for lower powered blasters - The BritHopp

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#26 BritNerfMogul

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Posted 18 February 2011 - 05:28 PM

With the old set up, some of the air output would go around the old tray, instead of down the PETG. Now, the air output has nowhere to go other than down the PETG.
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#27 Blue

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Posted 18 February 2011 - 05:33 PM

I get it! The piece you cut a slot out of is your barrel and it extends THROUGH the entire hopper clip all the way to the air output... I saw the pic of the barrel with the PETG piece that goes to the tray and thought you were replacing that. Very cool, you cut out quite a bit of dead space.
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#28 imaseoulman

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Posted 18 February 2011 - 08:15 PM

A couple weeks ago I was doing some experimenting w/ hoppers and scooped hoppers. One of the things I toyed around with is what you posted (w/ the green and yellow tape). Another interesting thing it allows is a sort of breeched hopper. I was testing ways to allow hoppers to work in the lowest powered blasters, and figured a breeched hopper would be the best. Most of the feeding issues were fixed w/ magnetic assistance.
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#29 shardbearer

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Posted 09 March 2011 - 07:44 AM

That sounds interesting...Magnetic assistance...
And i have thought of the breeched hopper a while ago, i think I have another idea of how to get that to work, but all my work has gone on hold, so I might as well tell you guys.
Make the whole hopper assembly out of PVC.
Put a ring of CPVC with a nail through it inside the PVC behind the hopper.
Ream out a CPVC barrel, and push it in.
Theoretically, a short dart should fall down all the way down while the barrel is forwards, then when you push it back it would load the dart and get singled ranges.
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#30 VACC

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Posted 09 March 2011 - 07:53 AM

Most Hoppers seat the dart to be fired on an angle between the clip and barrel. Unless your barrel is fairly loose, you're liable to chop a lot of darts that way.
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#31 shardbearer

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Posted 11 March 2011 - 12:32 AM

Make the whole hopper assembly out of PVC.


That is not a normal barrel setup, and making what would normally be the barrel out of standard PVC should be loose enough to have the dart fall all the way down. The size of the actual barrel should not matter. If necessary you could sand out the wye or use thinwall.

Edited by shardbearer, 11 March 2011 - 12:33 AM.

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#32 Daniel Beaver

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Posted 11 March 2011 - 08:41 AM

Most Hoppers seat the dart to be fired on an angle between the clip and barrel. Unless your barrel is fairly loose, you're liable to chop a lot of darts that way.

You can remedy this by flaring the upper edge of the brass using some needle nose pliers. It ends up looking ugly, but it works.

Edited by Daniel Beaver, 11 March 2011 - 08:44 AM.

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#33 VACC

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Posted 11 March 2011 - 09:19 AM

You misunderstand, I'm not saying this is a problem. It doesn't seem to effect the range, and it appears to help seal the clip a bit, preventing dart blow back from jamming the loading mechanism.
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