157 replies to this topic

[Carbon]

Dropping a [k26] into a Mk1 won't really work, anyway. The Mk1 uses the edge of the rear endcap as the catchface, with no reinforcement: a stronger spring will just shred it. Like Beaver says, if you want to use a [k26], just build a SNAPbow Mk5. Rork's improvements made it far more durable.

Edited by Carbon, 15 January 2011 - 07:54 PM.

[Collective]

I'm in the measurement and cutting phase of my build right now and I'd like an opinion on something. When a SNAP (or any home made in general) fires, is it ideal for the plunger to be stopped by the plunger head hitting the front bushing? Or should it be stopped by the rear handle/pump action linkages hitting the rear endcap or whatever's back there? I'm assuming it's the former, but I just wanted to check. Is it possible to stop the plunger without hitting anything at all, just having it come to a stop on its own?

Thanks.

Edited by Collective, 18 January 2011 - 07:31 PM.

[utahnerf]

It's totally fine on a Snap for the plunger head to hit the bushing, because if built correctly, the bushing will never be damaged by the force of the plunger. The bushing could only be damaged if the blaster is dryfired. I have accidentally dryfired my Snap hundreds of times, and it isn't showing any wear yet.

Edited by utahnerf, 18 January 2011 - 08:00 PM.

[Y-Brik]

Just make sure you mount the bushing well- either with screws or PVC cement. That said, SNAPS are built like tanks and either way works (Mine is stopped by the rear- with a rubber washer between endcap and priming handle)

[Darksircam]

If you use a rubber washer or some other large rubber piece that hits the bushing, no need to worry. It cushions the impact enough.
If you're using o-rings, yeah. Preferably find something to protect that bushing, if nothing more than just to silence your blaster a bit.

[TantumBull]

I dry fire my snaps all the time. And they hit the front bushing which is cushioned with a good half inch of gasket foam. No problems whatsoever.

[The lord of fish]

I hate to say it tantum, but I tried making a SNAP (or snap bow?) using your version of a plungerhead/catch face, and the damn thing would not catch. I filed the nail a little smoother, which made it catch more often, but when it did the trigger pull was a bitch and a half. I then swapped in Rorks, which worked flawlessly, but since my e-putty sucked and I didn't mix it well enough, the ramp cracked.

Snaps are great, but the catch face really needs to be easier to make. I'll hunt for random funnel shaped pieces later.

[Y-Brik]

Use a 1.25" endcap, lop off the connecting part (you only need the back), drill a hole in the middle to accommodate the plunger rod/endcap, and sand the hell out of it until you have a nice smooth catchface. It's a superlative with the durability of a preeminent. I feel like I said this before....

EDIT: I misspoke, I meant catchRAMP. My Snap uses a PVC catchramp attached to a metal washer for the catchface. Basically take the Superlative and replace epoxy putty with PVC.

Edited by Y-Brik, 20 January 2011 - 04:15 PM.

[utahnerf]

I find epoxy putty, when mixed well, is far more durable than a pvc catchface.

[qwertyupp]

Not sure if this detracts form the current conversation, but has anyone noticed whether a well made snap catch, or an r3l catch is more durable?

[ChaosPropel]

Not sure if this detracts form the current conversation, but has anyone noticed whether a well made snap catch, or an r3l catch is more durable?

I've made a semi-well-made SNAP, and 2 R3Ls. I haven't used the SNAP much, but I have used the R3L a lot (not at wars-just random shooting), with no signs of wear whatsoever.

I'm sorry that I can't add more to this, but I can reassure you that R3L catches, when made well, are extremely durable.

[TxNerfer]

Not sure if this detracts form the current conversation, but has anyone noticed whether a well made snap catch, or an r3l catch is more durable?

I'd say that they're both about equal. If nothing else, the R3L catch is weaker. I have never had a Snap misfire or anything. They are incredibly strong catches.

[Y-Brik]

The clothespin is deceptive- a well made Snap will not misfire. As far as I can tell, both catches are as strong as they would need to be. So, no real difference.

[The lord of fish]

My R3l catch seems pretty durable, but its a trivial matter to replace the catch ring with another bit of 3/4" pvc.

[Daniel Beaver]

but I have used the R3L a lot (not at wars-just random shooting), with no signs of wear whatsoever.

I'm sorry that I can't add more to this, but I can reassure you that R3L catches, when made well, are extremely durable.

You need to use it in a war environment before you can make a declarative statement about it's durability. I'm sure R3L catches will prove durable, but we really need to wait a few months to see how they fare in the spring wars.

[TantumBull]

I hate to say it tantum, but I tried making a SNAP (or snap bow?) using your version of a plungerhead/catch face, and the damn thing would not catch. I filed the nail a little smoother, which made it catch more often, but when it did the trigger pull was a bitch and a half. I then swapped in Rorks, which worked flawlessly, but since my e-putty sucked and I didn't mix it well enough, the ramp cracked.

Snaps are great, but the catch face really needs to be easier to make. I'll hunt for random funnel shaped pieces later.

Make sure to cut a slant in the nail (angled side facing the catch, of course) and to shave a bigger angle into the end cap.

[Darksircam]

I have been successful with both the endcap method and the e-putty method. The endcap method may require a bit more precision though.

Since the ramp is more abrupt with the PVC "unmodded", you might need to either file down the endcap to make a ramp, or really get your nail the right length. 1/8" of nail inside the plunger tube is a good length, sturdy but still with a short trigger pull.

I rounded the tip of the nail and spent about 15 minutes filing down the endcap for a good ramp. A slanted nail wears down the catchface a bit more, and with a little more work on the endcap you can get easy priming AND higher durability.

Though the trigger pull shouldn't be much different since both setups use the same catchface, just a different ramp material.

[lordnikon60]

I am in the process of making of what i guess would be the standard SNAP. I need some tips on how to keep it together. I am using non-threaded PVC(its all I had). but i don't want to glue it because I would like it to come apart if some thing breaks.

Sorry I am new to Homemade Nerf

[Demon Lord]

E-tape and screws will be your friend. You only really need to glue/goop the front bushing/coupler in anyway, as you can just unscrew the back and pull out the mechanism behind the SNAP.

[NimbleFellow]

I have a question. I built a SNAPbow MK V. today, and it's not catching with 3 NF springs in it. It catches with no springs though. Could this be a problem with my trigger, or the springs?

[k9turrent]

Perhaps you didn't account for the compression length of the springs, move your trigger forward

[NimbleFellow]

Perhaps you didn't account for the compression length of the springs, move your trigger forward

The hole is at 3 1/4". How much should i move it up?

EDIT: Nevermind i moved it to 4" and it works like a charm.

Edited by NimbleFellow, 30 January 2011 - 03:46 PM.

[Keska]

I made a modification to Tantumbull's preeminent plunger head to use it with a wire plunger rod, an I thought I would share it here.

Basically, before you wrap the cpvp cap in e-tape (I had to use the tape since I couldn't find the threaded coupler), go ahead and drill your hole.


You are going to put an eye bolt in it instead of a regular bolt. I used a 2" 10/24 eye bolt.


Go ahead and wrap it in e-tape, then thread your wire through the eye.


Seat that into the 3/4 PVC endcap, and go on as usual from there.

[TantumBull]

That's a pretty neat idea and removes the need to mount a screw in there. The only thing I would be worried about is, because the spring is no longer centered on the plunger head, that it catches on the roofing nail when priming. Maybe a thinner eye bolt could be used so that a short segment of CPVC could still go in the coupler?

[Keska]

That might be possible. However, I found that once I started pulling the wire taut, the spring automatically centered itself. I probably had to cut my nail a little shorter than you might with a traditional plunger rod, but it has caught and held securely every time.