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Raider Overhaul Write-up

Bolt brass'd, deadspace removal, AR removal, spring additon, reinf

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#26 TantumBull

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Posted 21 August 2009 - 08:27 PM

I also, found that the plunger cover that as sent out as a replacement on the recalled recons works very well to house extra springs. As it is longer than the stock plunger cover

Good idea. Would do that if I had one.

Legs are among the most sorely underutilized tools of the nerfer. Still, I tend to agree with TantrumBull's sentiments about ranges: even if you are shooting close-in, it is much easier to hit someone with a high-powered blaster than it is with a recon (unless you have Muttonchop's fabled superpowers).

Has anyone tried to remove some of the dead space on the raider? i.e., tried some sort of a straw mod? It seems like that would be a hell of a source of inefficiency (although, I'm not convinced of the effectiveness of straw mods).

I'm actually glad that at least 40ft is possible from the raider. That's about all you'll need in most indoor wars. The stock 25ft ranges seriously hurt its effectiveness, even indoors.

Time to reply to Daniel... umm... Brain-Fever! Take that name change, bitch! And yeah, I tried that except with hotglue with a hole drilled through it, but heeded the advise of Ice and Zorn and removed it. Results below.

Cool beans. Where did you get the Raider? I'm dying to get one.......unless you got it on an Ebay auction, then I'm screwed.


Oh, and to all you pussies whining about his ranges:

What exactly do you expect from a sideways recon? The only thing recons/raiders are even remotely useful for are indoor wars, and trying to one-up airsofters. No one is seriously bring a raider out on to a normal nerfing field and expect to do decent.

Thanks, and it was at the Target at Northgate. There were two and I picked up both, my friend wanted one. And maybe I won't do well with a raider, but wait until I get that clip hooked up to an LS. :D

Results of increasing the deadspace for better flow:

With 2 NF-sized springs that are a bit stronger in the new attachment I made: 40 ft
With the [k26]: 25ft
With no extra springs: 25ft.

So it definitely helped, because with the two NF-sized springs before improving the flow it wasn't shooting as far. I suspect the reason the [k26] is acting up is it's catching on the firefly PT, which I hadn't tested with the [k26] before.


Edited by TantumBull, 21 August 2009 - 08:28 PM.

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#27 wingd man

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Posted 21 August 2009 - 09:30 PM

Range only matters if you have accuracy. And preference does matter, I can't stand BBBBs, but I love doomsayers that shoot 60 feet.

And if I do recall, dizzy said it didn't need to hit 100'. NOT that range doesn't matter.

Edited by wing'd man, 21 August 2009 - 09:33 PM.

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#28 SorrowX

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Posted 22 August 2009 - 12:47 AM

I'll post this little thingie I explained in the other Raider thread, just in case anyone happened to miss it.

For anyone who wants to know how slam fire works yet doesn't have a mechanical mind-state, I may be able to help. (This is not speculation, I own a Raider)

First off, study and memorize this picture. (picture of internals courtesy of SPV999)
Posted Image

For slam fire, the trigger would be depressed, pushing the nub on part 1 of catch system part way up(Part one of catch system will be from now on referred to as 'P1'). As the user primes the blaster, the forward nub on the boltsled presses down and locks the top-side triangular piece depressed as the plunger tube catches on P2( part 2 of the catch system). So now, the bolt sled is pulled back, the plunger tube is caught, the trigger is being pressed, and P1 nub is partway up. As the user closes the breech, the rearward nub (in the picture, the nub on the boltsled that is touching P1) catches and pulls forward P1, pushing the P1 nub fully up, pressing on P2 and firing the blaster.

Hope this clears up the slam fire speculation! :lol:

EDIT
To make it so you can deprime it even when the boltsled it pulled back, you have to get rid of the slam fire. You have to glue P1 forward with some hotglue, so that P1 is stationary, in the forward position.


Also, only 40? mine's hitting 60 flat, and I haven't even installed the breech yet. :ph34r:

Edited by SorrowX, 22 August 2009 - 02:11 PM.

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#29 TantumBull

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Posted 22 August 2009 - 02:14 AM

Also, only 40? mine's hitting 60 flat, and I haven't even started installed the breech yet. :ph34r:

With stock streamlines, some wind, and un-accounted for dart skip, sure. I didn't post the ranges at which I picked up my darts, which were all about 50 to 70 feet away.
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#30 SorrowX

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Posted 22 August 2009 - 02:11 PM

Also, only 40? mine's hitting 60 flat, and I haven't even installed the breech yet. :ph34r:

With stock streamlines, some wind, and un-accounted for dart skip, sure. I didn't post the ranges at which I picked up my darts, which were all about 50 to 70 feet away.

I'll post all the factors that contributed to it's range:
-Single BB 2.5 inch stefans, very dense foam (I have to push them into the bolt manually, the dart tooth does nothing)
-Seal improvement with new O-rings
-Recon spring replacement
-foam padding on plunger and back of plunger tube
-Spring addition (Not a [k26] spring, just a stretched stock spring. I didn't even need to drill out the stock)
- Hot glued a Red Seal to the top of it (Ask RedHead)

There was maybe a bit of wind, maybe. As for dart skip, I think the plants I shot into took care of that. Plus, you know how heat increases dart quality, therefore, a bit of a tighter fit.

Edited by SorrowX, 22 August 2009 - 02:14 PM.

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#31 TantumBull

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Posted 22 August 2009 - 04:50 PM

I was assuming you were using the raider normally, my apologies for doubting you.

I have to push them into the bolt manually, the dart tooth does nothing

Doing that allows you to push in darts a lot farther than the dart tooth does. Anyways, nice work.

Edited by TantumBull, 22 August 2009 - 04:51 PM.

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