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The New Hereti Corp. Assault Rifle

LongShot End to End Guide - 90+ Pics

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#51 hereticorp

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Posted 22 September 2008 - 08:47 AM

I'm not sure what happened the first time I did ranges, possibly the wind was messing with me, but I went out yesterday and shot some new ones to test out a clip I modded for 2" stefans and they came out rather better.

New Ranges (18 shots, 3 clips full, shot flat, 1/4" Steel 2" Stefans):

96, 96, 94, 88, 88, 85, 85, 85, 85, 84, 84, 81, 80, 79, 77, 76, 73, 73

Average Range: 84'

I'd say that's definitely better.
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#52 nightfinder

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Posted 22 September 2008 - 07:00 PM

Gosh darn!(Dont feel like cussing)
but my question is if there is a ACE or Home Depot or Lowes spring that i can use for the catch?
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#53 Nonsense Man

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Posted 22 September 2008 - 07:03 PM

You could just use a pen spring. At my local ace, lowes, and home depot I haven't seen any springs small enough to function as catch springs.
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QUOTE(1lastnerfgun @ Apr 19 2008, 08:39 AM) View Post

40 shots for 40 cocks


#54 nightfinder

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Posted 22 September 2008 - 07:04 PM

You could just use a pen spring. At my local ace, lowes, and home depot I haven't seen any springs small enough to function as catch springs.

Are you stalking me?
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#55 mintee

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Posted 22 September 2008 - 10:13 PM

Any little old spare spring should work. Just cut it to length.

I had a 1st-gen LS and a more recent LS and I simply combined the two's catch springs (one was shaped like a cone kinda, the other was just a normal rod shape so I meshed them together and fishin' glued it). If you have a few broken guns, you've got plenty of springs to use.
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#56 hereticorp

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Posted 23 September 2008 - 08:08 AM

Go steal a few "clicky" pens and use the springs out of those, I did list that in the materials.

You don't even have to cut them down, just combine two or three and stick em in.
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#57 debauch

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Posted 23 September 2008 - 01:17 PM

Is it just me, or did all the pictures stop working?
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#58 hereticorp

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Posted 23 September 2008 - 01:27 PM

Is it just me, or did all the pictures stop working?


It's all you, they work perfectly here.
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#59 hereticorp

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Posted 23 September 2008 - 02:04 PM

It's all you, they work perfectly here.


You are the one person not qualified to judge. Too likely you are viewing a local cache.

And yes, they're absent as viewed from here, too. Maybe your image site is down, or hit you with a bandwidth limit?


I just viewed them from no less than 3 computers that have not EVER Connected to my image host before, I have all my nerf pics on an HTML page for reference and ALL The pictures loaded.

And, I don't have a local cache on the machine I use for testing.

I have no idea what your issue is, but it works perfectly from machines that have no cache to the pics.
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#60 hereticorp

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Posted 23 September 2008 - 02:19 PM

It's all you, they work perfectly here.


You are the one person not qualified to judge. Too likely you are viewing a local cache.

And yes, they're absent as viewed from here, too. Maybe your image site is down, or hit you with a bandwidth limit?


I just viewed them from no less than 3 computers that have not EVER Connected to my image host before, I have all my nerf pics on an HTML page for reference and ALL The pictures loaded.

And, I don't have a local cache on the machine I use for testing.

I have no idea what your issue is, but it works perfectly from machines that have no cache to the pics.



But they DO have cache to the IP of the hostname where the pics are.
Hostquack either does not have, or is not propogating, any info at all about your domain or its www host.
The rest of the universe has no idea where the picture host is:

dig +trace www.DARKWHYSPER.NET

{omitted irrelevant root server stuff}

DARKWHYSPER.NET. 172800 IN NS ns1.hostquack.com.
DARKWHYSPER.NET. 172800 IN NS ns2.hostquack.com.
;; Received 118 bytes from 192.55.83.30#53(M.GTLD-SERVERS.NET) in 208 ms

;; connection timed out; no servers could be reached


Yeah, host is moving servers, it'll be back up in a little while.
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#61 mrcrouse1

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Posted 23 September 2008 - 03:04 PM

Awesome!

Edited by mrcrouse1, 23 September 2008 - 03:05 PM.

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#62 debauch

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Posted 23 September 2008 - 04:05 PM

Thanks for the update. Shortly after posting I noticed the link in your sig that goes to a whole bunch of mods. Great work, I hope to grab another LS soon and try this out.
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#63 hereticorp

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Posted 24 September 2008 - 07:22 AM

Thanks for the update. Shortly after posting I noticed the link in your sig that goes to a whole bunch of mods. Great work, I hope to grab another LS soon and try this out.


You're right, I completely forgot that I mirror these things on Flickr.

So you people who can't see the pics on this thread can go read the whole guide over on Flickr, link in my Sig.
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#64 Vimes

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Posted 25 September 2008 - 09:39 PM

Hereticorp: Hey man, I really like the mod and I have one question about
glue. You only used gap filler CA glue on the bolt sled attachment, right? Have you
had any problems with that breaking, or did you supplement the CA glue
with something else?

Thanks.
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#65 hereticorp

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Posted 26 September 2008 - 08:08 AM

Hereticorp: Hey man, I really like the mod and I have one question about
glue. You only used gap filler CA glue on the bolt sled attachment, right? Have you
had any problems with that breaking, or did you supplement the CA glue
with something else?

Thanks.


I used Zap-A-Gap, that's it. If I had reinforced it I would have included it in the mod guide.
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#66 Vimes

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Posted 26 September 2008 - 08:50 AM

Ok, thanks for the confirmation. I've had mine break a couple of times so I just wondered.
Now I'm off to get my thinking cap, complete with light bulb.
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#67 Vimes

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Posted 26 September 2008 - 02:26 PM

I thought about that, but the Zap-a-gap separates from the brass, not the plastic.
After the last break I cleaned both surfaces and then roughed the brass a little,
using a dremel. Its still drying so I'll see how it works. Is it possible to use too much Zap-a-gap?
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#68 hereticorp

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Posted 26 September 2008 - 02:30 PM

I thought about that, but the Zap-a-gap separates from the brass, not the plastic.
After the last break I cleaned both surfaces and then roughed the brass a little,
using a dremel. Its still drying so I'll see how it works. Is it possible to use too much Zap-a-gap?


Only if you don't keep pressure on the breech while it's drying like I mentioned in the guide.

If you don't keep pressure, the zap-a-gap can pool and it won't provide as good a joint.

I put a very small blob of Z-a-G on the plastic, then put the brass on top of it and clamped.
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#69 Vimes

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Posted 26 September 2008 - 04:07 PM

A very interesting notion. I might just try that for kicks.

Thanks for the help guys.
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#70 hereticorp

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Posted 29 September 2008 - 01:18 PM

It has been brought to my attention that the Plunger replacement section in the intro to this guide is no longer valid.

The part number that CS gave for the rubber washers no longer gets you washers that are flexible enough to function correctly as a plunger replacement, they have been replaced by fiber-reinforced washers that are extremely inflexible and thus unusable. This is McMaster's doing and is no fault of CS.

So please ignore the plunger replacement section, and if I come up with a different washer source, I will update.
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#71 Split

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Posted 29 September 2008 - 02:32 PM

I got mine at home depot. Works like a charm, but I like to take the plunger out of the tube when the blaster is not in use, because if you let it sit in there is slowly starts to deform the part where the head pushes against.
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#72 hereticorp

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Posted 29 September 2008 - 03:32 PM

I got mine at home depot. Works like a charm, but I like to take the plunger out of the tube when the blaster is not in use, because if you let it sit in there is slowly starts to deform the part where the head pushes against.


Ok, I'll check out Lowes and see what they have. What section did you find yours in? Hardware or Plumbing?

You mean the washer starts to permanently bend where it presses against the outside of the tube?
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#73 nerfreak109

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Posted 27 October 2008 - 09:13 PM

This is the best gun i think i've ever seen man. Superb job.
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#74 foammasteroffusion

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Posted 11 February 2009 - 08:54 PM

Corrections:

A couple of pictures are out of place up top.

Here are the correct pictures to go with the text:

Posted Image

Here's the stock spring with a cut down AR-15 spring under it, I had a bad experience previously with a full length AR-15 spring, but after reading some more, I changed out this 2.5" piece for a 4.75" piece as recommended by Captain Slug. It works perfectly under the stock spring.


The text:
If you leave the half-pipe too short, the rear part of the breech will actually slip off the half-pipe during cocking and that causes all sorts of alignment issues. I screwed up a previous breech doing that.

Should actually go below this text:

Here's a correctly cut and inserted 9/16" half pipe, it's tilted up a little to show the orientation of the half pipe with relationship to the barrel guide, there is also a small gap between the rear of the half-pipe and the plunger tube location.


I'd edit this if the NH boards allowed me to with all these pictures, but I can't so this will have to do.

are your 64 feet ranges with an ar15 spring?
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#75 sputnik

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Posted 11 February 2009 - 11:17 PM

To replace the Plunger head.
From Ace Hardware:

1 - Rubber Washer, 1 1/2" OD, 1/4" ID, 1/16" Thick [Ace #RM1214]=$.85 each.
2 - Flat Washer #6 Size, 5/32" ID, 3/8" OD [Ace #546563]=$.09 each.
2 - Flat Washer, 1/4" ID, 1-1/4" OD [Ace #546608]=$.29 each.

The last washer ID is 1/4" instead of 7/32", but it works fine.
I recommend using one #6 washer flush with the screw, and one against the plunger rod.
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