12 replies to this topic

[ScruffyLookingNerfHerder]

I've decided to go ahead and mod my virgin Crossbow and was looking for some advice. I'm thinking I'll only take it up to level 3. And forego the stronger spring.

I found a LED flashlight/laser pointer at Ace Hardware and I want to mount this on top like a laser sight/flashlight. Any suggestions? I saw some sight mounts at walmart but they looked too small and bit excessive pricewise. Plus they didn't look they would fit my light.

I found some grey Threaded PVC in the yard sprinkler section of Home Depot. Anyone ever use this stuff? What do you think?

As far as painting this thing. What's a good paint and sealant combination? I hate seeing flaking paint and scratches. How can I avoid that? Better yet how do I get that paint job Direct Threat had on his Crossbow? Any help is greatly appreciated.

[sam]

ScruffyLookingNerfHerder, on Aug 23 2008, 03:31 PM, said:

I found a LED flashlight/laser pointer at Ace Hardware and I want to mount this on top like a laser sight/flashlight. Any suggestions? I saw some sight mounts at walmart but they looked too small and bit excessive pricewise. Plus they didn't look they would fit my light.

I found some grey Threaded PVC in the yard sprinkler section of Home Depot. Anyone ever use this stuff? What do you think?

As far as painting this thing. What's a good paint and sealant combination? I hate seeing flaking paint and scratches. How can I avoid that? Better yet how do I get that paint job Direct Threat had on his Crossbow? Any help is greatly appreciated.

1. No, thats like putting dubs on a classic car, it looks cool sometimes, but most of the time you look gay-tarded.
2. If you cut the threads ( you don't want to deal with threads) on them it becomes a decent barrel material, assuming your darts fit, otherwise just use normal PVC, its cheaper.
3. Vinyl Dye found at automotive supply stores usually.

[Icespartan 1114]

Use games workshop paint then use about 3 layers of clear coating

[BlackFox]

The threaded PVC has a tighter ID in my experience.

I've noticed that there are three slight variations in the ID of 1/2" sch. 40 PVC. (Aside from thin wall)

1. Regular white sch. 40 PVC: Loosest, requires several inches of e-tape to nest a barrel.
2. Gray Electrical PVC: Slightly tighter than White Sch. 40, fits taggers perfectly.
3. Threaded Gray PVC: Tightest of all, requires 1 wrap or less of e-tape to nest a barrel.

Edited by BlackFox, 23 August 2008 - 07:52 PM.

[ScruffyLookingNerfHerder]

Quote

1. No, thats like putting dubs on a classic car, it looks cool sometimes, but most of the time you look gay-tarded.
2. If you cut the threads ( you don't want to deal with threads) on them it becomes a decent barrel material, assuming your darts fit, otherwise just use normal PVC, its cheaper.
3. Vinyl Dye found at automotive supply stores usually.

Interesting that you'd think I'd be cheapening out my crossbow by adding a laser sight. (I would think that since it's modded range and style puts it in the field of a loser rifle) Then in the next comment say to use normal PVC since it's cheaper. I went with gray pvc initially since if I paint it and it scratches, then it won't look so bad or obvious as white pvc.

Also can you really dye a crossbow? I mean even if I do find a pot big enough to put it in, it's deep purple. It's no nylon plastic that readily accepts dyeing. Besides I think the flat metal paints look better.

[PC III]

ScruffyLookingNerfHerder, on Aug 23 2008, 10:17 PM, said:

Quote

1. No, thats like putting dubs on a classic car, it looks cool sometimes, but most of the time you look gay-tarded.
2. If you cut the threads ( you don't want to deal with threads) on them it becomes a decent barrel material, assuming your darts fit, otherwise just use normal PVC, its cheaper.
3. Vinyl Dye found at automotive supply stores usually.

Interesting that you'd think I'd be cheapening out my crossbow by adding a laser sight. (I would think that since it's modded range and style puts it in the field of a loser rifle) Then in the next comment say to use normal PVC since it's cheaper. I went with gray pvc initially since if I paint it and it scratches, then it won't look so bad or obvious as white pvc.

Also can you really dye a crossbow? I mean even if I do find a pot big enough to put it in, it's deep purple. It's no nylon plastic that readily accepts dyeing. Besides I think the flat metal paints look better.

Vinyl Dye is spray on, like spray paint, and it wont scratch off.

[sam]

First of all there is no snlping in nerf. notice the filter. You should need a laser pointer to hit someone.
Second, I think White PVC looks fine unpainted, but you can also use vinyl dye on PVC and it works just fine.

[BustaNinja]

Trying to do realism is a bad idea, and honestly, as much as I like the whole "warhammer" look, games worshop paint is EXPENSIVE AS HELL!!.

This past week I spent $10 on paint that will last me three guns plus all the clear coat I need for all of those guns. Its spray, and its not even the cheap stuff, but it works. If you clear coat it, no matter what it wont chip unless you do something stupid.

Thinwall 1/2inch PVC can be used to nestle CPVC, and SCH40 is perfect for megas. The SCH80 (gray stuff) can be used as a barrel, but its all about your darts.

[ScruffyLookingNerfHerder]

BustaNinja, on Aug 24 2008, 12:40 AM, said:

Thinwall 1/2inch PVC can be used to nestle CPVC, and SCH40 is perfect for megas. The SCH80 (gray stuff) can be used as a barrel, but its all about your darts.

are your measurements for straight I.D.'s no brass tubing required? I've heard good and bad about brass tubing.. whats the deal here really? for a 7-10 inch barrel on my crossbow, brass or PVC or CPVC or crayola barrel (where can I get on that long)?

[BustaNinja]

ScruffyLookingNerfHerder, on Aug 24 2008, 03:52 PM, said:

BustaNinja, on Aug 24 2008, 12:40 AM, said:

Thinwall 1/2inch PVC can be used to nestle CPVC, and SCH40 is perfect for megas. The SCH80 (gray stuff) can be used as a barrel, but its all about your darts.

are your measurements for straight I.D.'s no brass tubing required? I've heard good and bad about brass tubing.. whats the deal here really? for a 7-10 inch barrel on my crossbow, brass or PVC or CPVC or crayola barrel (where can I get on that long)?

I have no idea what you are asking me.

[Lynx]

Scruffy, may I suggest you mod a Big Bad Bow or a less costly similar gun that has similar mods to a Crossbow.

If you mod your Crossbow, please do so after many different modifications. A Big Bad Bow is another springer with a lot of power that would benefit from a staggered brass barrel which is what you need to use in a Crossbow. I recommend you buy a Big bad Bow, do mods like reducing the dead space, a coupler mod, a staggered brass barrel and an integration or two.

That will help you get a grip on what you need to do to your Crossbow.

Please don't mod your Xbow yet.

[ScruffyLookingNerfHerder]

Lynx, on Aug 24 2008, 08:38 PM, said:

Scruffy, may I suggest you mod a Big Bad Bow or a less costly similar gun that has similar mods to a Crossbow.

If you mod your Crossbow, please do so after many different modifications. A Big Bad Bow is another springer with a lot of power that would benefit from a staggered brass barrel which is what you need to use in a Crossbow. I recommend you buy a Big bad Bow, do mods like reducing the dead space, a coupler mod, a staggered brass barrel and an integration or two.

That will help you get a grip on what you need to do to your Crossbow.

Please don't mod your Xbow yet.

Too late... I modded it up to Level 3 just now. I'm not as much of a noob at this as you may be led to believe. I have an extensive amount of R/C modeling background and an engineering degree (I happened upon this site while looking for some ideas for office wars). So if you think a staggered brass barrel is a good idea for this, then voice your opinion. I don't think I'd need to go to the extent of finding and modding a BBB to figure that out. Your opinions are what I'm interested in here. If I wanted to perform my own experiments, then I don't think I'd have much need for anyone else's opinions. Regardless, I'm still here for opinions on methods, not opinions on how I should find out.

I'm open minded though, I think I'd still like to get both, but I've seen the BBB, and its form factor and design don't seem to be very hmmm.... i just don't like it... It looks kind of dorky with a gun that splits in half to cock.

Anyway, I've got 12" threaded gray PVC barrel screwed into a short threaded coupler hot glued to the plunger tube, and the front end out minimally dremelled. I have a full length of nested 17/32 inside 12" of 9/16 brass tubing inside the PVC. nothings set permanant, it shoots straight, but I think if I seal up the plunger I can get more power out of this thing and keep the crossbow plunger from immediately bottoming out and making that loud clack sound (what do you suggest?) I'm thinking of getting some rubber seals or something that will fill the i.D. more tightly. I hardly even feel air coming out of the barrel.

Your thoughts?

Edited by ScruffyLookingNerfHerder, 24 August 2008 - 10:14 PM.

[Rover]

I have a few thoughts. Firstly, when modding something as valuable and rare as a crossbow, it pays to take your time and do it right. Definitely nix the hotglue and go for some plumbers goop, epoxy, or any other high strength adhesive of your choosing. I'm not being harsh, just trying to save you the trouble of having your coupler rip off at an innopportune moment.

As for your plunger head, I had the same problem. I got my crossbow out of a lot of toys on ebay about a year ago (only $40!) and had similar problems. The previous owner essentially had essentially thrown it in their shed, and the whole gun was choked with red dust. The plunger head had shrunk significantly and was producing the same symptoms as yours: loud bang, no air. My simple fix is this: invert the cup-shaped part of the head and slide it back into the plunger tube. Leave it overnight, and voila! It won't be permanant but it should help some.

In closing, may I suggest doing something extremely simple to start with before doing anything drastic, like cutting off the top of the blaster to make way for a "loser" scope, or integrating anything? I did nothing but re-barrel it with brass, and construct a new plunger tube from 1" thinwall pvc (the original tapers slightly towards the front, preventing a perfect seal) and I love it. I'm so glad I started out simple rather than going crazy.

Hope this massive chunk of text was helpful!
~Rover