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The Vulcan: Internals And Mods! New Mods Pg.9!

Chain link mod pg.1, Ar removed pg.2, Spring replacement and more pg.9

197 replies to this topic

#176 imaseoulman

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Posted 06 August 2008 - 11:43 PM

Does it help hold in place the gear that moves the belt so that it lines up well to fire? Kinda like the tooth in an AT3K turret? Just a thought.
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#177 slowguitarman

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Posted 07 August 2008 - 12:11 AM

Does it help hold in place the gear that moves the belt so that it lines up well to fire? Kinda like the tooth in an AT3K turret? Just a thought.


It doesn't even touch anything. That's why I am so lost as to what it does.
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#178 mintee

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Posted 07 August 2008 - 05:14 AM

Perhaps it's just to cover the hole which would allow random junk into the Vulcan's shell?
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#179 stevenssk11

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Posted 07 August 2008 - 07:17 AM

One question I have in mind is...

What function does this piece serve?


If I'm not mistaken, that's where the battery pack slides in so maybe it is there to help hold the batteries in place. Also, perhaps it does keep the gears in place when pushed up by the battery pack.

Just my two cents...
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#180 Split

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Posted 07 August 2008 - 07:21 AM

It doesn't actually do anything. It straightens out when theres a battery pack in the though. It puts a small amount of tension on the battery pack, but it's unnecessary because the batteries have their own door.

To prove it doesn't affect the gears, close it up and fire it manually with no battery pack in. Take it out, and do the same.
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#181 dsman195276

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 04:22 PM

One question I have in mind is...

What function does this piece serve?


Maybe it holds the battery pack in place so it does not hit the gears? Just a thought...
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#182 madmax

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 05:10 PM

I think that piece holds the leads against the battery packs.
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#183 Split

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 06:08 PM

Seriously, you guys are speculating. The battery pack is too far away to hit the gears, and is held in place by a screw in hatch. The battery pack leads are held in a good six inches down towards the front of the gun, by a metal place sandwiched in plastic. The wires themselves are held in by small melted folds of plastic, like in the Firefly.

FA, it does in fact help line up the gun when closing it, as it is at one of the, if not the, thickest points on the blaster. I doubt that it would be for that though. A Chinese factory worker will probably get pretty good at closing it up after the 5th time, it's not that hard.
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#184 dsman195276

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 06:27 PM

Seriously, you guys are speculating. The battery pack is too far away to hit the gears, and is held in place by a screw in hatch. The battery pack leads are held in a good six inches down towards the front of the gun, by a metal place sandwiched in plastic. The wires themselves are held in by small melted folds of plastic, like in the Firefly.

FA, it does in fact help line up the gun when closing it, as it is at one of the, if not the, thickest points on the blaster. I doubt that it would be for that though. A Chinese factory worker will probably get pretty good at closing it up after the 5th time, it's not that hard.


Ok, I don't own a vulcan(i need more money!) so I did not know, and by that picture I though that it might hold the battery pack.
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#185 TheNerfLoki

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Posted 11 August 2008 - 12:43 PM

Splitlip, Nice job. Is the spring the same as the longshot? I have a LS spring and a LS front gun spring from my ruined longshot. Would those fit in the Vulcan i ordered? Thanks
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#186 Split

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Posted 11 August 2008 - 03:13 PM

The longshot spring definitely won't, and I'm very doubtful that the front gun one will, but it is still possible. A firefly spring was the only one I could find that fit out of my stock. Even a tiny manta ray spring was too big.
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#187 HvyMtlChaos

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Posted 28 August 2008 - 12:35 AM

I'm a bit of a noob at modding Nerf guns, so please excuse me if something I say here is intensely retarded, but I have read this entire topic, from start to finish, and I appreciate all the work you guys are putting into experimenting with the gun and posting your results for everyone.

For the problem of the gun not being strong enough to pull the 50 shot belt through, why not just enlarge the hopper, so it can fit the double belt? Pulling the belt from the hopper has got to take less force than pulling the belt when its hanging to the floor. And whether its the 25 or 50 shot belt, I'm wondering if adding a hopper on the other side to collect the spent belt would be a good idea or not. On one hand you don't have to worry about where the belt is, if you're gonna trip on it, etc. On the other hand it would make the gun that much bigger... I do like the idea of the belt circling around that VisionCloud suggested, I think it merits consideration. I'm definitely shorting the switch for the lid sensor when I get mine, its sounds like a pain.

On a funny note, from your first post Splitlip, it appears we have the same gaming keyboard (G15).

Edited by HvyMtlChaos, 28 August 2008 - 12:36 AM.

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#188 GodOThunder8882

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Posted 28 August 2008 - 01:14 AM

Your assumptions are exactly correct Heavymtl. The larger hoppers would solve the problems with the chain weight. However, to carry around a vulcan with a box approximately equivalent in size to a shoebox seems a little over the top to me, but then again so is a gun that looks like an alligator, so I suppose, to each there own.
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#189 HvyMtlChaos

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Posted 28 August 2008 - 10:58 AM

I guess I'll really only know if the added hopper size is too much for me once I get the gun and play around with it. I'm involved with HvZ (Humans vs. Zombies at Penn State), and while from last semester I'm known as "the heavy" for being armed with 3 or more weapons, I still have to be able to move with at least decent speed.
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#190 Split

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Posted 29 August 2008 - 04:36 PM

If you want to know why not, then the answer is simple. Weight and size. It's easier to maneuver. Not to mention you can do a massive plunger replacement without the belts. AND you don't have to worry about a second group of motions to advance the chain, which, in turn, increases reliability.

I do think that a spiral shaped chain holder and catcher would look sick as hell though, but it wouldn't stop the gyration effect that makes the gun very difficult to aim while moving.

I do appreciate you reading the entire thread though, and yes, I do use a G15. I used to do a lot of gaming. I also have a G5 mouse that I use (disliked my G7).
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#191 GodOThunder8882

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Posted 31 August 2008 - 01:19 PM

Hey Splitlip, haven't heard any updates on your drummel mag in a while. I was wonder if you finished and it's an absolute success or if you're still working on it. Let us know. If it works. I'd recommend a seperate write up on how to build it for better access in the forums. It was a genius idea and I'm really excited to try and apply it to some other guns.
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#192 Rogue Warrior

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Posted 31 August 2008 - 01:33 PM

Patience youngling,Patience. It's not very easy to be a Vulcan God.
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#193 Chamelion117

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Posted 05 September 2008 - 05:46 PM

Split,
When you removed the AR, she still fired, right?
Because when I did with my team, the belt feeds, the air kicks, but the darts just don't leave the belt.
I read about and also theorized about the AR's underlying purpose in precisely channeling the air current the instant the drum kicks forward, but we don't know for sure and currently we're sh*t out of ideas. We are working to replace it now, but unfortunately it got tossed out with the trash last night. We're ghetto rigging a nitefinder AR to fit the hole on the plunger with or without the spring as we speak.
Any ideas on another cause for this problem?
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#194 Split

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Posted 05 September 2008 - 05:50 PM

Yeah mine still fired. It was firing just fine until the rotation mechanism broke. Check the range test writeup somewhere in the first few pages.

Oh, and chances are far more likely than not that you installed something wrong. Check the internals and FAQ page I setup. The last question I believe pertains to the plunger tube, which seems the most commonly mis-installed thing.

Edited by Splitlip, 05 September 2008 - 05:51 PM.

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#195 analogkid

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Posted 05 September 2008 - 05:50 PM

The AR on mine is removed, and it did fire. Then I had something else go wrong that I've been too busy to fix. I gotta do some preventative maintenance on some other blasters and schools starting again. It should work fine though still. You did leave the rubber ring immediately outside the AR intact correct? Lets see some pics, then we can efficiently help you.

Edited by analogkid, 05 September 2008 - 05:50 PM.

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#196 Chamelion117

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Posted 05 September 2008 - 06:04 PM

Yeah mine still fired. It was firing just fine until the rotation mechanism broke. Check the range test writeup somewhere in the first few pages.

Oh, and chances are far more likely than not that you installed something wrong. Check the internals and FAQ page I setup. The last question I believe pertains to the plunger tube, which seems the most commonly mis-installed thing.


10-4. We've got a crew of 3 here so we'll start from the plunger drum and work our way out again.
Thanks for the directive. I'm sure you'll be hearing from us again soon.
Analog, give me a minute or two and I'll get some up.

Well, heres some to start, the rubber ring on the orange collar is still on, we just drilled out the white bridge in the middle, just like Split did back on page 1.
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#197 Split

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Posted 05 September 2008 - 06:47 PM

The plunger tube head, aka the piece that held the AR, is installed upside down. This is very common from doing the AR removal. Just take out those two screws and flip it over so that the flat edge is pointing down when installed.
What happens is that when the plunger tube moves forward, it doesn't go forward far enough because it catches on that tab. I honestly think Hasbro is trying to stop us from modding this thing. But we'll get around that.

A good idea that doubleshot had was to cut off a piece of a stock mega in order to fill the dead space, and I recommend trying that. His Vulcan seems to get better range then mine, but I really didn't get that accurate of a firing set since mine broke a while ago.

When you install that plunger tube, the square on the side has to be on the inside of the gun, closer to the "bottom internals cover".

Wrap some e-tape around that plunger head too. Then put the O-ring back on.
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#198 Dan44444

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Posted 17 December 2013 - 05:25 AM

Hi Split, After doing this mod I found out my vulcan would no longer shoot. The motor was still working fine, and it seemed as if the plunger coming forwards was stopping the rotating barrel thing from turning. I wonder if you have any idea on how to fix this.

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No, he would not, because this thread is 5 years old.

Edited by Zorns Lemma, 18 December 2013 - 08:59 PM.

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