23 replies to this topic

[CaptainSlug]

1. Take the gun apart to the point that you can remove the bolt and bolt sled.
2. Using a 1/2" flat blade wood-boring drill bit in a drillpress of power drill, drill the backplate out from behind the restrictor spring.

Until the parts will poop out the back of the bolt. It may take a few up-and-down passes using the 1/2" flat blade bit before the lip is removed to the point that all of the pieces will come out.

3. You now have the restrictor removed. If you want to remove the peg you can again use the flat blade drill bit to cut it out from the back of the bolt. Then using a really long screwdriver, or whatever is long and skinny enough to fit, to push it out the back of the bolt.

4. Use some aluminum tape or your favorite decorative sticker to cover up the hole in the side of the barrel portion of the bolt.
Anything stickier than electrical tape will work fine.
5. Before putting the gun back together I would recommend removing the jam door because doing so makes getting the gun back in one piece MUCH easier.

6. Now when your gun is unloaded you can see from the muzzle all the way to the back of the plunger chamber.

You should get ATLEAST 15 more feet using the stock darts. Longer darts work best because they get forced further back into the usable barrel portion of the bolt.
If you want to be able to ram-rod stefans in from the muzzle you will have to glue a 1/2" OD tube into the bolt piece somewhere to prevent them from getting stuck in the plunger chamber. I'll update this post of what length to glue in from the back sometime soon

And that's how I did it. I'm contemplating other possible mods (like banding, adding a second spring, making a new bolt from scratch), but I don't know when I'll get around to them.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 19 January 2008 - 08:53 PM.

[Peter]

Great, lets hope the recon will be able to take other mods too, it'd be a shame to see it end up like the maverick.

[CaptainSlug]

Mine is already outperforming even my best modified Maverick by a good 5-10 feet, and I haven't done anything complicated to it yet. The plunger and spring size are thankfully much larger in this gun.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 18 January 2008 - 09:13 PM.

[Dayko]

Vary nicely done. I did a variation of this. I used a 3/16" drill bit with an extender and drilled through the back.

[analogkid]

Ahh, much easier than my way of doing it. If I get another I will do this instead. Also, I have a barrel/breech that I custom made for the gun, but I got no range improvement with Streamlines, though stefans worked a bit better, they were terrible before. Just kinda keeping it under wraps though, because whats the point if there's no range improvement? Sorry if this is a little off topic, just wanted to mention it though.

[NerfGnome]

I got a recon recently, and I was skeptical about modding it, due to the apparent difficulty of removing the AR. But now that you have posted the easy way out, I may mod it now. Thanks a bunch.

[Matt31]

I just did this and it is definatley the easiest way to remove the AR. Thanks CS!

[Darin]

This is getting a little bit off topic, but for the Recon, where can you buy it? I have checked online and cannot seem to find it. Is it available in Canada?

And great mod, if i find a recon i should be doing that!

Thanks

Edited by Darin, 19 January 2008 - 06:02 PM.

[CaptainSlug]

Target is the only store near me that has them at the moment.
I know nothing of Canada.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 19 January 2008 - 08:54 PM.

[Quilan Fett]

FA24 got some in Canada. Check the other threads if you're interested.

[NerfGnome]

@Darin
No offense, but If you can't find the Recon on Ebay, you are pitiful.

Edited by NerfGnome, 19 January 2008 - 10:36 PM.

[Your nerf killa]

You should make a Shotgun foregrip, like you did with the Longshot.

[ompa]

CS, remaking the bolt using a system similar to what Boltsniper used in his last guns has worked very well for me thus far, if for some reason you need a starting point. I can take pictures if you need them, although I doubt you will.

~ompa

[mintee]

... Remaking the bolt? Ompa exactly what do you mean? Pics please, I'd like to know what's going on too...

[ompa]

It's really nothing new or exciting, it's the same bolt I used here. As far as I'm aware, it's one of the earlier solely-brass bolts, and was used by both me and Bolt, although I'm unaware of anyone else using the design.

The pictures in the link should be enough, but if not:









See kids? Use the macro function. It works wonders when taking close-up pictures.

All in all, it really is just a more simple version of Angel's bolt, although it came somewhat before Angel's bolt. The main difference is that the dart sits right in front of the chamber in the bolt I use, while it sits a bit further ahead of the chamber in Angel's. Also, Angel's can shotgun load darts, while the one I use cannot.

[Quilan Fett]

Ompa- If you want a simple breech that can shotgun darts, use a peice of brass sliding on he inside rather than the outside. It does not work well for pistols, but with a LS, 2" doesn't make much difference.

[ompa]

Eh, I have no real desire to have something that shotguns darts, in all honesty. At least not on my LS.

I'm trying to squeeze every ounce of power the LS has without risking the integrity of the gun, so 2" makes somewhat of a difference to me.

~ompa

[mintee]

Ompa, is that a 9/16" breech cover over 17/32" breech/barrel? Do the darts catch on the lip of the 17/32" breech cut-in?

[sam]

Ha Ha. I just asked Ompa the same question. Its the other way around, 9/16" sliding over a 17/32" barrel.
Here is what he said:
"The breech itself is 17/32, and the 9/16 slides over the 17/32, covering the dart. Therefore, the dart isn't pushed forwards at all, and remains as close to the plunger chamber as a breech design without a plunger replacement could allow."

Edited by sam, 03 May 2008 - 07:17 PM.

[ompa]

EDIT: The more testing I do, the more I realize that Angel's breech may indeed be more effective. I can probably give instructions as to how to do a slightly modified Angel Breech without the use of tightening rings, and different sizes of brass, but otherwise I can't say with confidence that the breech system I've been using should be used when Angel's version works better for the LS. I'll try both breech types on the Recon, and get back to you all with results later on, but as for now, I think I can say with confidence that the increase in distance introduced by Angel's breech outweighs the cons of the further constriction in the rest of the barrel.

EDIT: For reference, during preliminary testing (just 10-20 shots thus far) I'm getting around 10-15' of improvement mimicking Angel's breech using my finger to push the dart all the way in before closing the bolt. I have no idea why the difference is that much, but it seems to be that way. Perhaps it's the felt tip that's snagging due to stray fibers that's slowing it a bit, but I can't really tell.

~ompa

[mintee]

I'll be trying to make ompa's simple breech and Angel breech for my first project involving brass... I'll post results when I finally get my ass to a hobby store.

[AssassinNF]

I wish I would have modified my two Recons at a time other than 2:00 in the morning. Since my parents were asleep I was limited to my own small toolbox and no power tools.

So I basically ripped open the bolt assembly with pliers and a box-cutter and superglued the jagged edges back together. I also removed every internal part that I deemed "unnecessary", which was everything but the bolt/barrel assembly and the trigger/catch assembly.

Surprisingly, both guns work great, even though you can clearly see the repaired carnage when you open the jam door. Also, removing all the unnecessary internals made the gun operate much smoother and made it much more reliable. I did the same to one of my longshots with similar results.

If I buy another Recon (which I probably will since it is now my favorite pistol) I'll use a little intelligence and do it CaptainSlug's way.

[Druupwnz]

This is gonna sound really newbie, but that's alright because I'm new to nerf modding. I've gutted the AR and stretched the spring on my Recon, and I put it back together and it shot fine. I recently took it back apart to cut back on some loudness issues, but now when I put it back together the slide is jammed and will not pull back. From what I can tell everything is in it's proper place, but I can't seem to find the answer. Can anyone offer their advice to a beginner?

[SerpentofSet]

This is gonna sound really newbie, but that's alright because I'm new to nerf modding. I've gutted the AR and stretched the spring on my Recon, and I put it back together and it shot fine. I recently took it back apart to cut back on some loudness issues, but now when I put it back together the slide is jammed and will not pull back. From what I can tell everything is in it's proper place, but I can't seem to find the answer. Can anyone offer their advice to a beginner?

If you look carefully at the bolt sled, you'll see a little...trapezoidal piece that can be pushed down. That piece prevents the slide from going back once you've loaded it. If the gun isn't loaded, the plunger chamber will be in its starting postition, which will push the trapezoid down. Make sure you've put your plunger chamber in the correct way, with the small rectangular part on the bottom to push the trapezoidal piece down.

Hopefully I've explained this well...