354 replies to this topic

[doubleshot]

Ok, as pictured in step 1, in the middle of the 1/4" template, theres 2 little pieces. On the template I downloaded, rather then the 2 pieces, theres another plunger pull back handle, and the 2 little pieces are not on any of the templates that I downloaded. Is that supposed to happen?

[Ryan201821]

doubleshot, on Jul 10 2008, 04:37 PM, said:

Ok, as pictured in step 1, in the middle of the 1/4" template, theres 2 little pieces. On the template I downloaded, rather then the 2 pieces, theres another plunger pull back handle, and the 2 little pieces are not on any of the templates that I downloaded. Is that supposed to happen?

The two little pieces and the one next to it are the pieces for the integration bracket. They are not required to build a +bow.

[BustaNinja]

Ryan201821, on Jul 10 2008, 01:33 PM, said:

biofreak2, on Jul 10 2008, 04:30 PM, said:

When people use a +bow do you normally use mega or micro stefans, just so I know which I should use?

Micros. Nobody typically uses Megas anymore, for anything.

Ahem.

Actually, I only use megas because I am shit at making accurate micros and I cant get the barrels right on my guns.

Anyway, I still want to make a +bow, but do i have to use polycarbonate? I can get alot of the parts cheaper if I can use ABS instead, but would it still work? or do i just need to splurge on better materials?

[Ryan201821]

Spend more and get the right materials. Polycarbonate is light and durable.

I wouldn't use any other alternative. I'm pretty sure CaptainSlug will tell you the same thing.

[BustaNinja]

Ryan201821, on Jul 10 2008, 03:36 PM, said:

Spend more and get the right materials. Polycarbonate is light and durable.

I wouldn't use any other alternative. I'm pretty sure CaptainSlug will tell you the same thing.

How much does Polycarbonate cost? I hear its spendy, but for how much I need, will i truely go into debt? Im just trying to get a pice range sorta thing going so I can see how much it will cost for me this summer to make a +bow.

[Dayko]

BustaNinja, on Jul 10 2008, 04:43 PM, said:

Ryan201821, on Jul 10 2008, 03:36 PM, said:

Spend more and get the right materials. Polycarbonate is light and durable.

I wouldn't use any other alternative. I'm pretty sure CaptainSlug will tell you the same thing.

How much does Polycarbonate cost? I hear its spendy, but for how much I need, will i truely go into debt? Im just trying to get a pice range sorta thing going so I can see how much it will cost for me this summer to make a +bow.

CS said that the materials for the project would cost around ninety dollars plus shipping.

[Ryan201821]

Polycarbonate can be bought cheap from your local plastic shop. Most places will sell of their scrap pretty cheap. Just check the phonebook.

Quote

CS said that the materials for the project would cost around ninety dollars plus shipping.

That is when you order everything through McMaster-Carr. You have enough parts to make one or two extra guns when you order what is provided on the parts list.

[Shadow 92]

I've used both 1/16" polycarbonate and PETG sheets (albiet, to a limited extent) and they're comparable materials. PETG is slightly cheaper from Mcmaster and you can probably get away with using it for a +bow.

[Dayko]

Ryan201821, on Jul 10 2008, 07:12 PM, said:

Polycarbonate can be bought cheap from your local plastic shop. Most places will sell of their scrap pretty cheap. Just check the phonebook.

Quote

CS said that the materials for the project would cost around ninety dollars plus shipping.

That is when you order everything through McMaster-Carr. You have enough parts to make one or two extra guns when you order what is provided on the parts list.

Crap, I thought I said that. Thank you Ryan for pointing that out.

[CaptainSlug]

Polycarbonate is definitely not the most expensive plastic that could be used. Just pick the tinted sheet of polycarbonate that's the lower price for the size you need. You really don't need much sheet plastic to make just one +bow.

1sq foot of 1/4"t
Polypropylene = $5.39
Polyester = $6.41
HDPE = $6.69
Polycarbonate = $11.61 to $13.53 depending on tint
ABS = $12.66
Nylon 6/6 = $13.69
Delrin = $20.49
Aluminum = $41.61

Shadow 92, on Jul 11 2008, 12:20 PM, said:

I've used both 1/16" polycarbonate and PETG sheets (albiet, to a limited extent) and they're comparable materials. PETG is slightly cheaper from Mcmaster and you can probably get away with using it for a +bow.

Polyester melts much faster when you're machining it and it's a bit waxier. It not as dense or impact resistant as polycarbonate and should not be used for making any of primary frame pieces or the trigger plate.
It's just not going to offer the same durability or even the same machining experience that polycarbonate will. The hassle you'll go through is not worth saving that extra $6.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 13 July 2008 - 11:59 PM.

[Ubermensch]

Just curious, has anyone tried ABS plastic to make a +bow?

[CaptainSlug]

Ubermensch, on Jul 14 2008, 04:03 PM, said:

Just curious, has anyone tried ABS plastic to make a +bow?

It's no fun to machine because it melts so easily. ABS is really only usable for injection-molding.

[serpent sniper]

I debated about putting this here, but it is +bow related.
I've been experimenting with my +bow and I've figured out that cpvc will be my best choice for barrels.

I'm trying to think of a way to create an adapter to go from the 1/2 inch pvc couper to a 1/2 inch cpvc coupler. What type of glue will bond pvc and cpvc? I assumed that pvc cement would, but then I saw cpvc cement and am worried that it won't work.

I'm also unsure of how to construct an adapter. I have some ideas, but I can't think of a way that allows the dart to be as close to the plunger as it is in a pvc barrel.

Thanks in advance for help.

[CaptainSlug]

serpent loser, on Jul 21 2008, 10:54 PM, said:

I debated about putting this here, but it is +bow related.
I've been experimenting with my +bow and I've figured out that cpvc will be my best choice for barrels.

I'm trying to think of a way to create an adapter to go from the 1/2 inch pvc couper to a 1/2 inch cpvc coupler. What type of glue will bond pvc and cpvc? I assumed that pvc cement would, but then I saw cpvc cement and am worried that it won't work.

I'm also unsure of how to construct an adapter. I have some ideas, but I can't think of a way that allows the dart to be as close to the plunger as it is in a pvc barrel.

Thanks in advance for help.

"CPVC" pipe as in what you are describing is "Copper-size PVC" pipe and not Copolymer PVC. PVC Cement works fine on PVC and Copolymer PVC anyways.

The OD of "CPVC" 1/2 pipe is .625" so you can make an adapter by putting a section of SCH40 1/2 PVC Pipe in a vice and then use a 5/8" drill bit to widen the ID just a little from .605" to .625".

Edited by CaptainSlug, 21 July 2008 - 11:07 PM.

[serpent sniper]

Thanks Slug.

Now that I know the pvc cement will work, there's no reason not to just bore out the sch 40 pvc. Keep it simple.

[CaptainSlug]

The previous rotating trigger I had tried wasn't measured out properly and did not provide the leverage needed.
I've tried my second rotating trigger sliding and the result is superb. Much MUCH easier to pull.

Due to the new trigger being easier to pull the trigger well no longer needs to be as large.
And so I have also made a revision to the shape of the grip pieces and to where the foam padding is added so that it's much more comfortable to prime the plunger.


The template .DOC file has been updated to reflect the changes.

Edit: to avoid a double post, here are some changes I made today.

I finally put a decent barrel in my Spiderman 3 Dart Blaster. Which I needed a ramrod for, so I copied Groove's bungie'd ramrod thing. Only this one is on the gun itself.

I might buy another one of these sometime soon. I really like them.

I also made a solid grip core out of some scrap polyethylene I found at work.

And now I'm very very happy with it.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 05 September 2008 - 12:12 AM.

[sam]

Damnit CS, why do you have to be such a bad ass?

[VACC]

CaptainSlug, on Sep 1 2008, 11:13 PM, said:

I also made a solid grip core out of some scrap polyethylene I found at work.

That is a fantastic idea. I'm sure it makes the gun much more comfortable.

Between that and an improved trigger, the confort cannot help but improve ones ability to fire the +bow accurately.

[Natbeanz]

Now that is cool

[CaptainSlug]

The first post has been updated to include the newly completed Autocad 2000 DWG drawings that would be needed in order to have the parts cut out using a water-jet or laser-cutting table.

Autocad 2000 DWG for all of the parts that need to be cut from 1/8" thickness polycarbonate
Autocad 2000 DWG for all of the parts that need to be cut from 1/4" thickness polycarbonate

These were requested by someone, but I can't seem to remember who. It took me a while to get around to it because these are very tedious to make and the CAD model itself did not have extremely accurate hole sizes on it.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 06 September 2008 - 01:11 AM.

[Natbeanz]

Do you still use This anymore. If so how did you make it?


- NB
PS: I guess you like Death note CS

Edited by Natbeanz, 06 September 2008 - 11:43 AM.

[CaptainSlug]

I don't use the turret anymore. It was heavy, bulky, and only provides a temporary ROF burst. The slide breech is much more effective in my opinion.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 07 September 2008 - 01:15 AM.

[CaptainSlug]

+Bow Rev.2 is forthcoming.

I've made a great deal of minor changes to the original design that will require me to edit half of the steps in the construction write-up. The update includes changes to the grip, trigger, plunger handles, rear frame piece, and part list.

[Natbeanz]

What about this:



Its got less barrels .Or is it still too heavy

[A side of nerf]

CaptainSlug, on Sep 7 2008, 02:21 AM, said:

+Bow Rev.2 is forthcoming.

I've made a great deal of minor changes to the original design that will require me to edit half of the steps in the construction write-up. The update includes changes to the grip, trigger, plunger handles, rear frame piece, and part list.

You said you will be editing the construction write-up; will you still have a link to the original? I am curious because I have begun construction on the current design, and to have the write-up change in the middle of construction would be bad. I would print the instructions out, but it comes out to about 40 pages in Microsoft Word. Thanks,

A side of nerf