227 replies to this topic

[keef]

Do you know when the new patterns will be up? I printed them out on Wednesday, and I have someone coming over today to make it. What would be the difference between pieces from the old design?

[CaptainSlug]

The template file and part list files are updated.
You simply need to make two of these handle pieces instead of one.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 13 January 2008 - 11:34 AM.

[Omega]

It might be a little presumptuous, but there's a tutorial on how to make your own laser cutter for <50$ USD.

http://www.instructa...r-under-50-dol/

[bobafan]

As is stated by the author of that instructable, the laser is very weak and could only be used for cutting dark paper. Transparent plastic is quite a lot harder to cut. The laser he used was from a DVD/CD writing drive.

[Deseas]

I would be willing to pay $120. Maybe you could make a list of people who would be guaranteed a +bow, from when they ordered it.

[Z-man12]

Dang I just now saw your newest addition to this monster. Thats a really nice homade turrent. Just amazing.

[CaptainSlug]

It might be a little presumptuous, but there's a tutorial on how to make your own laser cutter for <50$ USD.

http://www.instructa...r-under-50-dol/

Minimum laser power requirement for cutting 1/4 thick polycarbonate is 40 watts. Prices starting at $11,000.

I would be willing to pay $120. Maybe you could make a list of people who would be guaranteed a +bow, from when they ordered it.

They will be available when they become available. I'm not going to keep a list or accept payment until I have actual items to sell.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 18 January 2008 - 09:04 AM.

[Deseas]

Fair enough. My Birthday is coming up on the 25th of this month and I will have the money to buy a +bow, I should just save my money until there are +bows available to buy.

[CaptainSlug]

I'm going to be making a new slide breech this week out of delrin since my PETG and CPVC one broke.

I'm also making some very small dimensional adjustments to the trigger to make it more sensitive. The CAD model wasn't mirroring the actual gun for this particular piece. The template sheet has been updated to reflect the changes.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 20 January 2008 - 10:57 PM.

[Squishy]

Slug, I could be completely off base here about the Polycarbonate and lasers, but would an increase in the opacity(blue to ultraviolet end of the spectrum for red laser) of the Polycarbonate possibly make it so that a lower wattage laser would be required to mill it? Alternatively, if that is not possible, getting a different wavelength laser such as Bluray. It seems to me that a clearer PC sheet would absorb less energy from a laser by some orders of magnitude.

These figures might provide some insight.

Edited by Squishy, 20 January 2008 - 09:55 PM.

[CaptainSlug]

No it has to do with localized temperature, not with other properties of the material. Polycarbonate has a fairly high melting temperature compared to other plastics.
And the more significant issue with laser-cutting (besides just cost) is the difficulty of fume control and evacuation. Most smaller companies that offer laser-cutting services will not cut polycarbonate (or PVC) for this reason. You have to have a powerful blower for evacuation and if used indoors you have to add a smoke filtration unit. The cost is just too high in both the tool itself, the support systems needed, and the electricity it consumes compared to other options.

CNC routing is the only cost effective method I can use at home, and I'm pretty close to having enough money to buy one in cash. Should only be a month or two from now. It's also just a more versatile tool and unlike a low-end laser-cutting table it can cut most grades of aluminum too.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 20 January 2008 - 10:14 PM.

[Z-man12]

CNC routing is the only cost effective method I can use at home, and I'm pretty close to having enough money to buy one in cash. Should only be a month or two from now.

Dang, man I am so jelous its not even funny. I have been wanting one for years now, they are just to much money for me to make an excuse as to why I need one.

[Squishy]

I see, just trying to provide another angle but it appears you've already done your homework. Should have expected as much.

[LordDeathSorrow]

CaptainSlug, you are one of my nerfing heroes for this +bow, along with Boltsniper for his SCAR-N. I'm planning on making this as soon as I scrounge up enough money.

Do you think you could post the specs for that gatling turret? Cause that is one sick contraption, even if it isn't as good in overall usefulness compared to the breech loading barrel.

[CaptainSlug]

Do you think you could post the specs for that gatling turret? Cause that is one sick contraption, even if it isn't as good in overall usefulness compared to the breech loading barrel.

It needs quite a few adjustments that I haven't gotten around to making parts for yet because I have other things that are taking priority right now.
The downside of the turret is that it requires much tighter measurement tolerances than most of the other parts, so it may not really be all that practical to make plans for it available.

[precisionnerfer]

I'm going to be making a new slide breech this week out of delrin since my PETG and CPVC one broke.

I'm also making some very small dimensional adjustments to the trigger to make it more sensitive. The CAD model wasn't mirroring the actual gun for this particular piece. The template sheet has been updated to reflect the changes.

Hey Slug, allow me to suggest a little something for that breech.

If you want to put ROF just a little higher on the priority list then comfort, [which you might have done already] you need to consider the following:

Purchase 2X extension springs of the Handy Man brand, [the bigger ones]

Now, with the same materials you used in the making of your fore-grips, make an attachment to the cocking mech of your +bow, that runs to the breech. Now drill a hole on each side of the + bow where it is necessary, and then stick/glue the end of the extension springs in the holes. Then drill a whole in the attachment to the cocking mech, and you have a sort of auto-breech that works when you cock the gun, and/or let go of the breech attachment thingy.

I have no pics, but this is a reasonable concept that might help your ROF, something to be considered. If you didn't understand my blabber please pm me.

[CaptainSlug]

I have no interest in trying to link the plunger priming to the breech. I get a pretty nice consistent ROF with the slide breech.

[precisionnerfer]

Ah, I thought you would use a clip on it eventually. Sorry about that.

[CaptainSlug]

The new slide breech is done.


The 1/2 SCH80 stub is lathed to the outside diameter of the thinwall PETG so the slide seal is mostly there. But the inside of the delrin piece is also lathed to match the outside diameter of the 1/2 SCH40 PVC.
The parts have extremely close tolerances. But it works just the way I wanted it to and I can actuate with the thumb of my left hand and then load a single dart.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 23 January 2008 - 10:48 PM.

[bobafan]

Great job, as always.
Do the small cuts in the end of the barrel serve any purpose, or is it purely cosmetic?

[CaptainSlug]

Just cosmetic.

[Squishy]

both the SCH80 and the SCH40 have PETG inserts? How did you get a good seal between the two?
edit: also adhere all of them together if they had such tight tolerances? Also the nub for the guide is made from a screw and what?

(rarrarrar ask lots of questions.)

Edited by Squishy, 23 January 2008 - 07:16 PM.

[CaptainSlug]

1. both the SCH80 and the SCH40 have PETG inserts? How did you get a good seal between the two?
2. also adhere all of them together if they had such tight tolerances?
3. Also the nub for the guide is made from a screw and what?

1. The 1/2 SCH80 was lathed out to match the OD of the PETG very closely to make an air-tight seal when the breech is slid closed. I inserted a very short section of PETG into the SCH80 for the purpose of holding the dart loaded into the breech. That short piece is super-glued in place and makes the total length of the barrel 12-1/2 inches.
The PETG in the 1/2 SCH40 pipe has 3 wraps of electrical tape at one end for stability, and 4 at the other to secure it and make an air-tight seal. This is a common method for securing PETG into 1/2 SCH40 pipe.
2. I didn't have to glue anything except the short PETG length in the SCH80 stub
3. A 3/8 length #6-32 screw, a 3/8" OD spacer, and a finishing washer all screwed into a tapped hole in the SCH40 pipe. I can still completely disassembled the breech if needed.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 23 January 2008 - 07:23 PM.

[Squishy]

I see. Beautiful, thanks.

[NerfRifleman]

If you were to connect the breech to the priming handle, much like the LS, would you be able to reach the barrel to prime the gun with a pump slide maybe???