38 replies to this topic

[xNFx 37]

I know everyone says " Make sure the glue doesn't extend past the plastic". But if you only have to plug ONE hole and it's on the end, (not the side), when you put the hot glue on, do you smear it so it's flat? Or do you just have to make sure it doesnt go all over the sides?

Edited by xNFx 37, 02 December 2007 - 05:57 PM.

[Davey]

It dosn't make to much difference if it's flat or not. Just make sure it dosn't go over the edges othwise the pumps O-ring won't make a seal on the inside of the pump tube. Also, make sure that the hole you're plugging isn't the air valve, otherwise gun-no-work-o.

[xNFx 37]

Have modded MANY guns, just they were mostly spring guns. I do have a SM3K and Sonic bazooka no pump plug. Anywho, I knew the glue couldn't go over the edge but I just didn't know if it had to be flat. Thanks for clearing that up. Now, (I'm noob with air guns) what is the air valve?

[Davey]

Well, I'm also a "noob" with air guns appart from the first guns I ever modded (to be Nerf guns) were supersoakers, and I'm pretty sure they have valves to take in more air into the air chamber. Don't quote me on that one though, I could be totaly wrong. More air in the same space = more pressure. Hopefully someone with more experiance with air guns can help.

But, if I were you i'd just cover the overpressure valve with hot glue, dosn't matter if it's flat or not, as long as no air can get though. And you should be fine, just don't over pump. But if it dosn't work (for example if my theory about the air valve is right, and it is an air valve, spose you'd call it an "air intake valve" or something else like that...) just rip out the hot glue, and it'll work like it did before.

[jwasko]

Generally, the overpressure release valve (the one you do want to plug) is right in the center of the pump head.

The Lanard Blast Bazooka (and probably Buzz Bee's Big Blast, too) have two more holes on either side of the overpressure release valve that allow air to be drawn in when you pull the pump back. For some good pictures, check out Carrtoon's LBB mod.

So, in summary, only plug the hole in the center.

Edited by jwasko, 01 December 2007 - 12:32 PM.

[xNFx 37]

Ok thank you!!!

[xNFx 37]

I plugged the OP Valve on my At3K, but as I've said before I've never plugged a pump so bear with me. My At3K all back together, It pumps as easy as it did before so here's the question: Does the plug just push more air into the tank? And also, is it supposed to be as easy as pumping as before except you risk blowing your air tank? Also how many pumps, I fell nervous for more than 3....

Oh and P.S. when I plugged the OP I Put a small Dome of hot glue and blew on it to spread it out but it is NOT going of the edges of the plunger head.

Edited by xNFx 37, 02 December 2007 - 03:21 PM.

[hierarchy]

xNFx 37, on Dec 2 2007, 12:15 PM, said:

I plugged the OP Valve on my At3K, but as I've said before I've never plugged a pump so bear with me. My At3K all back together, It pumps as easy as it did before so here's the question: Does the plug just push more air into the tank? And also, is it supposed to be as easy as pumping as before except you risk blowing your air tank? Also how many pumps, I fell nervous for more than 3....

When you plug a pump it lets air to continuously go into the air tank. But when it isn't plugged when the air pressure gets to strong the air will escape through the hole in the pump.

On an AT3K I request four pumps. Anything else will work for awhile but eventually make a leak.

[xNFx 37]

Ok thanks, but is it still supposed to be as easy as normal until you get to say, 3-4 pumps?

And also is my small dome of hot glue on the OP ok or does it HAVE to be contained within that tiny hole?

[hierarchy]

xNFx 37, on Dec 2 2007, 12:26 PM, said:

Ok thanks, but is it still supposed to be as easy as normal until you get to say, 3-4 pumps?

Ya. I think so.

xNFx 37, on Dec 2 2007, 12:26 PM, said:

And also is my small dome of hot glue on the OP ok or does it HAVE to be contained within that tiny hole?

The dome is O.K. Actually I would say to cover the entire end with hot glue. Just don't let it seep out of the sides.

[xNFx 37]

That is exactly what I did.

Thank you, now I can mod an air gun!!!

[SHADOW HUNTER ALPHA]

This is what happens:

The OPRV is the hole in the center of the pump head. When pressures in the tank begin to reach a level Hasbro deemed to be "too high," the valve is forced open by that pressure to maintain a safe level. With that plugged, air can be pumped into the tank indefinitely (until the tank, the line, or the plug blows).

The two slots, which are opposite but parallel to each other, are on the edge of the pump head. When the pump goes forward, the O-ring is forced into the back of its groove by friction, which creates a seal. Then the pump is pulled out, that same friction causes the O-ring to be moved to the front of its groove. This uncovers a hole in the back that allows air to travel under the O-ring and through the twin slots into the pump chamber. That's why it's important to keep them free of glue or other blocking agents.

That's the science behind it, if anyone was wondering. This is why it is alright for the glue to get on the pump head, but not over the sides. One, it blocks those slots. Two, it may glue the O-ring in place.

Some extra advice: If you are alright at splicing and replacing tubing, I recommend getting some vinyl tubing from Lowe's or Home Depot and completely re-tubing the gun. I do this to all of my air guns (where the tank is not directly attached to the pump by plastic shells) to get rid of those wires inside the stock tubes on gund like the SMDTG and Titan. These make the tubes rigid, and are annoying as hell if you need to move the tubes around for a mod. Just make sure to seal everything up with some Goop before firing. Also, those wires are curled into springs that can be used to reinforce catches, depending on the gun.

Edited by SHADOW HUNTER ALPHA, 02 December 2007 - 03:54 PM.

[jwasko]

So, wait...the springy things do nothing?

Sometimes I hate Hasbro...but overall I guess they're pretty okay in my book.

Thanks for that info, SHA.

[xNFx 37]

Now that were on the subject, how the hell do you get the barrells off of the 3K???? I'm using a hacksaw (not cutting the auto rotating mech) but the sides of the barrels are all glued together

[hierarchy]

xNFx 37, on Dec 2 2007, 01:24 PM, said:

Now that were on the subject, how the hell do you get the barrells off of the 3K???? I'm using a hacksaw (not cutting the auto rotating mech) but the sides of the barrels are all glued together

Just cut strait through it. Thats what I did. But first unscrew that screw in the middle of all of the barrels. And take out that star thing in the middle so you can use it later to straiten out the barrels when you replace them.

[xNFx 37]

hierarchy, on Dec 2 2007, 04:35 PM, said:

xNFx 37, on Dec 2 2007, 01:24 PM, said:

Now that were on the subject, how the hell do you get the barrells off of the 3K???? I'm using a hacksaw (not cutting the auto rotating mech) but the sides of the barrels are all glued together

Just cut strait through it. Thats what I did. But first unscrew that screw in the middle of all of the barrels. And take out that star thing in the middle so you can use it later to straiten out the barrels when you replace them.

If I cut straight through I'll kill the rotation mech!

Edited by xNFx 37, 02 December 2007 - 04:37 PM.

[hierarchy]

xNFx 37, on Dec 2 2007, 01:37 PM, said:

If I cut straight through I'll kill the rotation mech!

No cut along line on the original barrels. It is about 3/4 of the way down.

[xNFx 37]

Okay. but the turret keeps rotating

[hierarchy]

xNFx 37, on Dec 2 2007, 01:44 PM, said:

Okay. but the turret keeps rotating

Just hold it in place with your other hand.

[xNFx 37]

Did that but now the barrels don't fit in

Where I cut there was a thicker part of the barrel, and a fraction of an inch later it is thin again. So I either need to cut it or hollow it out.

Except now I can't cut it because I don't have a dremel and there's nothing to hold onto to stop the turret from moving when I cut.

This is pissing me off. I hope it's worth the trouble.

Edited by xNFx 37, 02 December 2007 - 05:26 PM.

[hierarchy]

xNFx 37, on Dec 2 2007, 01:59 PM, said:

Did that but now the barrels don't fit in

Where I cut there was a thicker part of the barrel, and a fraction of an inch later it is thin again. So I either need to cut it or hollow it out.

I recommend dremaling it out. After dremaling it out PETG fits in it really well. And I think some kinds of brass do to.

[SHADOW HUNTER ALPHA]

jwasko, on Dec 2 2007, 04:15 PM, said:

So, wait...the springy things do nothing?

What springy things?

Here are some links on rebarreling your ATs (selected from the directory):

http://nerfhaven.com...?showtopic=9368

http://nerfhaven.com...?showtopic=9368

http://nerfhaven.com...745&hl=write up

Basically, chop it at that seam that Hasbro conveniently provided. If you have to, take a Dremel (a file or sandpaper will work, but you will be there for hours) and shave out the stubs in small increments. Check the barrel fit constantly, because it is much easier to work with if the fit is nice and tight. Glue 9/16" brass or PETG in or on the stubs, and use the faceplate to align the barrels correctly.
In your case, with no Dremel, take a smaller material like 17/32 or 1/2 brass and stick it in the stubs. Nest your actual barrels over that. This ensures air delivery and barrel fit.

Edited by SHADOW HUNTER ALPHA, 02 December 2007 - 05:44 PM.

[xNFx 37]

I would do that, but the thick part of the barrels is WAY to big a difference for anything over 1/2 inch OD

[Wisey]

NOTE: I was posting as Davey! but now my account is validated ^^

SHADOW HUNTER ALPHA, on Dec 2 2007, 08:53 PM, said:

The two slots, which are opposite but parallel to each other, are on the edge of the pump head. When the pump goes forward, the O-ring is forced into the back of its groove by friction, which creates a seal. Then the pump is pulled out, that same friction causes the O-ring to be moved to the front of its groove. This uncovers a hole in the back that allows air to travel under the O-ring and through the twin slots into the pump chamber. That's why it's important to keep them free of glue or other blocking agents.

Thanks for clearing that up for me SHA, thats what I ment by "air intake valve", I just didn't know where it was. I didn't realise it was part of the plunger head.

jwasko, on Dec 2 2007, 09:15 PM, said:

So, wait...the springy things do nothing?

The springs/wires that are inside or on the outside of pipes are there to stop the pipes from bending, for example, if you bent the pipe at a right angle the pipe would propbably close up and let little to no air though. They are also there to protect them from breaking. This is mainly for when the gun is assabled at a factory, so they can be assambled more quickly without the risk of pipe damage. They're mainly at places where the pipe could bend the most, or be most likely damaged.

[jwasko]

xNFx 37, on Dec 2 2007, 05:54 PM, said:

I would do that, but the thick part of the barrels is WAY to big a difference for anything over 1/2 inch OD

Well, then use something under 1/2" then connect your barrel to that...how about something like the tube-shaped body of a pen?

SHA: The "springy" things are what you were talking about; the wires (coiled in a spring-like fashion) in the tubing of some blasters (including the SMDTG and, if I remember correctly, the Hornet).