4 replies to this topic

[idleninja]

Part 1: Plungertube Replacement

*READ THIS FIRST*
Think of this as a jumping off point instead of a definitive way to mod this gun. I got my results through trial and error, and took pictures along the way. You can probably find a better and much more efficient way to mod your ClipTek.


This writeup involves replacing the stock plunger tube (PT) with an AT3K pump head and shaft.


Parts needed if you want to copy my mod:
ClipTek
NUUN Tube
AT3K Pump + Shaft
Scrap bit (1 inch or so) of PVC or CPVC

Tools needed:
Hacksaw
Sandpaper/Dremel sanding bit
Drill
Pencil
Solvent weld or strong epoxy
Needlenose pliers




*Begin writeup*

Open up your ClipTek and take out the plunger rod + tube (PT will have that little yellow thingy on the end of it)


I modded mine (the wrong way) by breaking the yellow piece off of the stock PT. (Ignore NUUN tube)


Now you are going to need to clean out the area where the original PT was. Start with this curved part. Do this on both sides of the shell.


Now this ridge here is tricky. What I did was drill 2 holes, one at each end of the ridge, and connected them, then pulled out any leftovers with pliers. Do this on both sides of the shell.



Now that this area is cleaned out, start fitting your replacement PT. I was originally going to use a NUUN tube, but do the same with whatever you are using as a PT. You will need approximately 3" of PT.


Once your PT fits, figure out where to drill a hole in the bottom. I put the yellow piece back in the shell and marked where it met with the NUUN tube.


I then glued the yellow bit to the back of the NUUN tube.


Trim this wall here so that the yellow piece fits properly.


Now here's a problem: the stock plunger rod doesn't line up with the new plunger tube.


My solution was to buy a neoprene washer with a slightly larger I/D (not O/D) than normal and screw it in off-center. There are easier ways to fix this.




You could stop here if you wanted to. With the stock spring, terribad seal, and no lube, it got same as stock ranges (35-45 feet level). If you replaced the spring, got a proper seal, and lubed it up, you would probably be able to get 55-60 feet.


MOVING ON


I had an AT3K pump lying around and decided to use that since it gets a good seal.

Cut 3" off the tube the pipe goes in, keep the bottom for the check valve. Test fit it in the shell like earlier.

Now take your pump and chop off the top part like so.


I cut the very bottom of the NUUN tube off with the yellow bit still glued on, then glued the disc onto the end of the 3K pump shaft.



Make sure your newly glued PT fits inside the ClipTek shell. This next part will solve the off-center plunger rod problem described earlier.


Re-read this part a couple times, I will try to word it properly.


Fill the cutoff 3K pumphead with epoxy or ShoeGoo so that it's slightly overflowing.


Put a scrap piece (inch or so) of PVC or CPVC in the PT. Take your glue-filled 3K pumphead, manuever it into the PT without making a gluey mess, then put the PT back in the ClipTek. Now take your stock plunger rod and align it with the rails on the ClipTek. Push it inside the PT so that it is lined up with the 3K pumphead. The PVC is there so the plunger rod can firmly attach to the 3K pumphead. Press and hold for a couple of minutes. Pic will help explain.


This should be the final result. Notice how it's off-center so it will fit in the new PT.



I am not sure if solvent weld is stronger than ShoeGoo/epoxy. Use whichever is stronger/whatever you have on hand.

You might have to sand down the tracks on the yellow priming handle since they might bump into the new PT.


Now for ranges. 44-52 feet level with the stock spring. That's a definite improvement over 35-45 feet, almost 10 feet. Definitely could break 60' with a stronger spring.

I had a lot of fun working on this, hopefully somebody gets inspired and does this 10 times better than how I did it.

Final notes:
-You can make a shell catcher by arranging a bunch of cardboard cutouts in a box shape, gluing them together, then gluing that to the right side of the shell.
-1" PETG (the Petco stuff) would also work well as a PT replacement.
-This writeup assumes your PT replacement has a solid end (like the stock PT). If it doesn't then cut 1 inch off the stock PT with the yellow piece attached, then wrap it in E-tape or something. This is so you'll be able to redirect air from your PT into the bolt.
-Alternatively you could scrap the stock PT/yellow piece and run a bit of tubing from the end of your PT to this point here on the bolt.

-You could also hookup an airtank quite easily to said ^^^ spot.

Edited by idleninja, 17 May 2012 - 01:28 AM.

[idleninja]

Part 2: Dual SSPB Integration


Parts list:
ClipTek x1
SSPB x2
1/2 CPVC coupler x1
4 inches of 1/2 CPVC
Epoxy/ShoeGoo/Other strong glue
Needle Nose Pliers
Hacksaw/anything that can make a straight cut

I finished one half of the shell before I started documenting, but it should be pretty easy to figure out how to cut the other half of the shell.


First, cut your 1/2 CPVC coupler in half. You will put one half of the coupler onto each SSPB.


SSPB preparation (Do this twice):

Unscrew your SSPB and take out the orange part. Keep the shell to practice painting with.

Twist off the dart peg with some needle nose pliers, then shove a bit of damp paper towel down the barrel to prevent dust from getting inside the valve. (Thanks iamthatcat)

Now cut like so (to the back of the decorative hole thing in the middle)


Cut the barrel of the SSPB again so that it is flush with the center ring right by the valve. Don't take the paper towel out like I did (see picture).


Trim the middle part of the SSPB down so that you can fit a half of the coupler onto your SSPB.


You are now done preparing 1 SSPB. REMEMBER TO DO THIS TWICE!



ClipTek preparation:

Unscrew the 4 screws holding the yellow handle together and take that off.


Now unscrew the rest of the screws holding it together. Take the fake barrel out, it just gets in the way.

Take half of the shell and mark a line along and on top of the ridge closest to the trigger (see pictures).




Flip the shell over and remove the screw post on the inside.
Before:

After:


Cut along the marked line.


Flip the shell over again and clean out the insides. Make sure you keep the wall that is circled.


Now do the same thing to the other half of the shell.


Putting it all together:

Test fit your SSPB, making sure that it sits snugly against the two circled walls.


Trim your shell so the coupler fits. This is what mine wound up looking like, yours may fit differently.



Now its time to glue! I used ShoeGoo, but epoxy or any other strong bonding material will do.

Liberally apply your glue to anywhere your SSPB will be making contact with the shell. Place your SSPB inside the shell and press firmly so that it rests against the two walls circled earlier.


Put a little glue behind the circled wall for reinforcement. Epoxy putty wouldn't hurt either.

Let dry overnight.


Finished product:



You now have 2 SSPB's integrated into a shellfed springer.

Thanks for reading! Questions, Comments, Flames?

Edited by idleninja, 17 May 2012 - 11:46 PM.

[hamoidar]

This is pretty nice! I like the way you used the offset washer to solve the plungerhead problem. One question: Why did you re-post the dual SSPB mod guide?

[idleninja]

This is pretty nice! I like the way you used the offset washer to solve the plungerhead problem. One question: Why did you re-post the dual SSPB mod guide?

Thanks! It looks bad when you pull it out, but it's perfectly aligned for the new PT.



I reposted the SSPB guide so that you can find everything I did to my ClipTek in one thread.

[Blue]

Be very careful with spring replacement... the plunger rod is fragile. I made a thread awhile back trying to fix it and I was unable to do so, and that was using only a stock spring.

One pic is down too, just fyi.

EDIT: Nvm, I was thinking of a RFR. It looks like they filled in the gap on clipteks so you shouldn't have too much of a problem.

Edited by Blue, 17 May 2012 - 03:40 PM.