Start with your messed up turret, the turret casing, and four CPVC couplers.
No pic of this, but you will want to take a hair dryer and use it to heat up the coupler so you can carefully peel off the stickers.
Now, you will need the orange grinding stone sanding drum attachment for your dremel, and your dremel for this next part. This piece I believe comes standard with any dremel you buy, so you should have it if you have a dremel. Use it to sand out the holes until a CPVC coupler can squeeze in. Go on a slow speed, and be patient, you will have to dremel away abut half of the plastic wall. This doesn't have to be perfect at all, and it isn't on mine, it just looks that way because I took my time and stayed in the lines. Try to stick in the coupler every once in awhile to try to pinpoint the areas that got the least sanding so you can fix it. I'd say that each hole took me about 5-10 minutes of solid slow dremeling to finish.
I'd recommend you take off the rotation mech, it will get in your way. I didn't because the turret I came across had already had the mech super glued in place. You will also need to sand down the ridge at the back as shown, use a file or something that has more control than a dremel for this, as you want it to be flush.
The next part will be to make the base of the turret holes. Take your CPVC couplers, and hammer them into a small scrap of CPVC pipe, I used a hacksaw and just cut around the edges so that the pipe is flush with the coupling. Make sure you do this on the smooth side of the coupler, not the side with stamped writing, although it probably won't matter after sanding. You will need to sand it down so that the pipe is flush with your coupling, the pic is before sanding.
This next part is a bit tricky to explain, and can probably be done easier. The rotation mech was glued on mine, so I had to elevate the flat surface to accommodate it. I used a piece of scrap plastic I bought at TAP for about a buck. I peeled back the paper part way, and then slathered the exposed plastic with silicone grease. You will need to repeat this process for each barrel you want. Start by coating the barrel rim generously with super glue, then gently push in your coupler to the back of the turret. Place the coupler on the plastic, and hit it with a hammer a few times to push it down as far as you can. Quickly flip the turret so the front is down, and hammer the coupler from the back to straighten it out. I'd recommend you do this outside, the super glue can drip. The first pic is how you would hammer it from the front, the second is how you would do it from the back.
Now, the super glue should pool in the gaps that the coupler doesn't fill in the imperfect holes. Let this dry over night, and check on it the next day. It will most likely be pretty bumpy, so you will have to sand down the couplers and super glue to make it flat and flush. The gaps will be filled, and it will look pretty good.
Now, to make the rear loading process easier, you should ream out the CPVC stubs in the couplers. I reamed it out from both ends, but doing it from just the back should be good enough. Also be sure to ream out your barrels when you put them on later. The process is finished in the pic.
My casing had already been turned into a barrel spacer, but an easy way to do it is to make a small hole in the middle of each spot, big enough so you can fit a file in there, then file down each of the three nubs until you can push CPVC down. Before you do this though, you need to super glue or screw the casing onto the turret so you can properly align the barrels.
Once you finish up with the turret, you can add whatever barrel lengths you want. Install the turret in your gun and line it up. Drop a sharpie down the barrel, then widen out a hole through the two layers of plastic with the sharpie hole as the center. I used a hot nail to poke a hole and get it started, then I reamed it out a bit, then I used a heated tube of brass to punch out a big chunk of plastic. I then used the file and rotated it around in circles to widen the holes from both ends. The melted plastic will interfere with the turret base, so make sure to sand the area between the two pieces of plastic. Do this on both sides of the gun. It should look like the pic when you are done.
The seal is simple, and the easiest part of the mod. Take out the two pieces shown, one is the stock seal and the other is the piece of rubber on the front of the plunger head you don't need.
Take a bit of brass, and hammer it on top of the piece of rubber so that the hole is as least as wide as the stock seal. Place the stock seal inside the piece of rubber like the pic shows, and super glue it in place. Use hot glue on the stock seal when you stick it back in the plunger tube. The seal will not be perfect, but it will be very good.
The stock seal leaks from the connection to the plunger rod, to fix this I traced out a foam disc the size plunger seal on some craft foam sheet and cut it out making sure to stay inside the line to make the disc able to fit inside the plunger seal. I then filled the plunger seal with hot glue till it was almost to the top, going around in circles in an attempt to spread out the glue equally. I then put the foam disc on and pressed it down gently on a flat surface. This sealed up leaks from the looseness of the plunger seal to the plunger rod and also made the plunger head have better seal in the plunger tube.
I took all the in progress pics on a separate turret the second time I did this mod, the gun shown has my first one in it. Using the methods shown, a BBB+Stock+Recon spring combo in a original style gun with ~8-9 inch barrels hits 90'-100' flat from about 5'6" off the ground with good single BB darts, slingshot weights go much further. Thanks for reading!
Edited by Blue, 01 July 2010 - 11:12 PM.
