15 replies to this topic

[TantumBull]

The minute I saw Split's ingenious priming set-up on his +pistol, I fell in love with it. But it wasn't until I realized how much it sucked getting hit in the chin by a CPVC tee joint before I set out to adapt the system to my Snap. The pics here are all of the finished product, but it should all be pretty straight forward.

What you'll need:
-flexible, load bearing cord (I just went into the cord/wire/chain section of Ace and got the thinnest wire, which I believe was wound steel and had a max load of 97 pounds, more than enough for a plusbow spring)
-2 ferrules that fit the wire
-a SNAP
-some sort of priming handle, I used a 1/2" CPVC tee
-it helps to use a hollow pistol grip from an airsoft/paintball gun, it helps for nesting the key retention thingy.
-one of those key winders, I used a really overpriced ace brand one because that's all they had, it was like 12 bucks... at least its really strong.

There are a couple problems/precautions-to-be-taken that Split has noted about the priming system. One is the small plunger rod turning. This affects a +bow/pistol set-up, but doesn't matter at all for a SNAP. The second is that the spring needs to be locked into place where it touches the spring rest and the plunger. I'm not quite sure how Split did this with the +pistol, but the majority of this write-up covers that with a SNAP.

First let's get an over-view of the internals. I'll explain the individual parts later.


Now let's work on the spring rest. Inside of the hex plug I nested and glued it a DTB plunger tube, which fits around the [k26] spring very nicely and not too tightly. I know for a fact that a firefly plunger tube will work for this as well. The end I held up to a flame and bent outwards. This reduces the risk of the spring catching on the edges while it's getting compressed.



Now to the other end - the plunger. The plunger head is pretty much standard and has several inches of CPVC sticking out the back, which the [k26] fits nicely over. The wire goes through the CPVC and is looped at the end with the ferrule. The loop goes around a screw that is visible in one of the pictures. Make sure to grind the screw head and end down so they are flush with the plunger - you don't want it catching on the catch or scratching up the plunger tube.



The priming handle is pretty easy. Just create another loop with the other ferrule like before and loop it around a screw running through the CPVC handle.

Installing the key winder should be pretty straightforward. Just run it through the handle if it's hollow. If not, figure something else out. The last step is bolting on a piece of CPVC to help guide the chain. I just filled it with hot glue and then drilled through.


Here's what it looks like primed.


And here she is in all her glory.


What do ya guys think?

[Split]

Others are catching up to me! I must begin unveiling some of my new projects!

[TantumBull]

Dude, totally. The community would cease to function without your ideas. Who knows what might happen without new material? A pin-less at2k tank *ghasp!*?

But actually, I still can't get over how cool this system is. It does wonders for me because I can't see well out of my right eye but I'm still right-handed. In other words, stocks, unless position low (think tommy gun), are a no-no for me.

[soccerbeast003]

Thanks for this, I can't wait to start on it.

[TantumBull]

soccerbeast003, on Feb 15 2010, 06:01 PM, said:

Thanks for this, I can't wait to start on it.

Sure, man. If you run into any problems post them here, as I may have left something unclear, and everyone could benefit from clarification.

[BustaNinja]

Split, on Feb 15 2010, 01:43 PM, said:

Others are catching up to me! I must begin unveiling some of my new projects!

So then in half a year someone else can begin to understand how it works? Good Plan, show us all once again how much smarter you are.

Seriously Split, you are like ridiculous when it comes to foam weaponry.

And Bull, that is one cool gun. The handle is that of an airsoft MP5 type weapon right? I happen to have the handles of a 1911, p99, and MP5 all ripe for using on a Nerf homemade.

[TantumBull]

Yep, a terrible LPEG MP5. My friends sister broke it, and I gutted it back before I was into nerf. Sooooo glad I kept the parts; the handle, sights, and spring have been a godsend. The handles of airsft/paintball guns make snaps exponentially more comfortable.

[Chadpuff]

Very nice.

[BustaNinja]

TantumBull, on Feb 15 2010, 07:16 PM, said:

Yep, a terrible LPEG MP5. My friends sister broke it, and I gutted it back before I was into nerf. Sooooo glad I kept the parts; the handle, sights, and spring have been a godsend. The handles of airsft/paintball guns make snaps exponentially more comfortable.

True True, plus, for pistols, you can take the clip and hide extra darts, or just keep it there for the lulz

[rork]

I quite like this. My only concern would be the whole "handle whipping around" issue, but that should be fairly easy to work around.

[TantumBull]

The key winder negates any whipping. If you mean it rotating when firing/priming, then yeah, that would be a real easy fix. Just put a bracket on the back of the handle with a hole through it that both the wire and the chain winder run through.

[Zorns Lemma]

TantumBull, on Feb 16 2010, 12:48 AM, said:

The key winder negates any whipping.

That is not completely true. The key winder isolates the snapping motion of the wire to the area around the back of the plunger rod. This while much safer than flying priming handle, can still be dangerous if something is in that area to catch.

The safest way to use a wire plunger is to enclose it in something, like how the priming mechanism is enclosed in the SNAP-4.

[TantumBull]

My apologies, I should have clarified, I was only referring to the handle. Yes, the loop of wire that is formed definitely does snap closed.

[death by cheez]

So we shouldn't put anything we don't want to lose, such as a thumb in the loop? Upon thinking of this, that would hurt like hell.

[pjotrkuh]

If you could make the wire go through the handle, and make the the gun being primed from the bottom of the handle, the wire and t-piece would dangle underneath the gun, eliminating a t-piece between your teeth or other injuries of wire's and pvc flying around......

[TantumBull]

That would make it a bitch and a half to prime. Trust me, this thing is pretty safe as is, and all motion is really contained. I can upload a video if you guys would like to see the rear of the gun while firing.