32 replies to this topic

[AssassinNF]

I'm assuming this will work on the actual Eliminator?
Also,How is the cocking handle connected to the plunger to arm it? Is it that tiny ass nub on the side?

-Red

It should work on the actual eliminators. I can't think of a reason why it wouldn't

And yes, it's those tiny-ass nubs on the sides.

Yeah I saw these on some random site and forgot about it!!!!

Anyways, if you are going to HELL BEFORE HALLOWEEN just pm me and I'll relieve you of two of them for some a money

Hell Before Halloween is in Canada, right?

I'm in Alabama.
I can't even make it to a SENO or DCNO, let alone Hell.

And I'm not selling these. Thanks for the offer, though.

[Red Star]

"Says Things"

Alright, I'll be trying this out on my Eliminators tomorrow.(That's when I get paid,Woot for working at Dominos! )
Also, Anyone with a paint scheme for these for me to try? I'll be getting the two DTGs w/ Eliminators so they will be green and Orange, If that influences your decision.

-Red

[AssassinNF]

"Says Things"

Alright, I'll be trying this out on my Eliminators tomorrow.(That's when I get paid,Woot for working at Dominos! )
Also, Anyone with a paint scheme for these for me to try? I'll be getting the two DTGs w/ Eliminators so they will be green and Orange, If that influences your decision.

-Red

You could paint everything that's not green or orange black... If you like high-contrast paint jobs.

[Red Star]

"Says Things"

"I say things"
-Red

You say things

Yea, I will probably end up with a Black or Metallic Blue with a Red Star on it.

Stay tuned for the write-up! It will be my first!

-Red

[LoneKiltedNinja]

I'm assuming this will work on the actual Eliminator?

Given the age of this thread, I'd imagine you're already done, but for reference, the mod of the innards should be the same. Given that the packaging seems to be targetting adults, however (factoid: according to the former CEO of Hasbro, the core Nerf demographic is 11-19), it's probably unsurprising that they made liberal use of sonic welding (read: melt the plastic to act like glue) to render the shell less accessible. Below are a rundown of the hurdles to watch for:


First, this guy. A little plastic ring fused around the bottom of the grip. I wedged a knife in and snapped it, but more elegant solutions probably exist. It is fused to both main shell halves along the seam between them.


Next, the grip itself is fused for an inch or three along the front and back. Again, I wedged a knife in and managed to pop the front open. For the back, the seal was harder, and I had to just wrench the halves apart and hope the seam was the weakest point (it was).


Third, to support the handy little sliding dart stowage block in the grip, the halves actually have a heavy metal pin between them near the bottom. It's not fused to either half, but be aware that, once you snap the halves apart, pull them directly away from eachother. Forcing the gun open like a book with the pin still in place may break the plastic.
As a side note, you can see how heavily the back of the grip was fused here...


Okay, not a real 'difference,' but on this particular gun at least one of the screws seems to have been stripped out on insertion. I'm pretty sure this much plastic pulling out means it's not going to go back together nice and tight, and may also mean some of the screws are heat- or chemically-melted into their holes.


Finally, a curious note: exact same plunger geometry, but no mysterious second black disc/washer. Also, I did a check with a strong flashlight- the cavity in the back half of the plunger actually stops at the visible seam, meaning no dead space. If the Reflex IX-1 has a fully hollow plunger, this may make the original Eliminator more efficient pre-modding. I don't have a measuring setup handy, but I could believe I'm getting in the generous tail of the quoted 25' flat pre-mod.

I'll be drilling out the AR on the gun above (front half of the plunger is still fused at the seam ) and trying the barrel mod as soon as I can get to the tools/parts. If I come up with any different results or other improvements, I'll try to post them.

[LoneKiltedNinja]

Done, mostly.
The sad news is my nearby sources are out of 17/32 brass, the good news is I worked out a fairly easy way to do the AR removal sans power tools.


Step 1: invest in a $10 basic pipe/tube cutter. Cutting right on the seam works, but having done it, I'd advise about an eighth of an inch further towards the end (hit the middle of the AR chamber rather than right near the post support).


Step 2: Find some 7/16" brass tube (1/2" might work, but is probably too large).


Step 3: Wrap the end of the tube as neatly as possible in E-tape until it makes a clean friction-fit in the back end of the formerly-AR chamber. Use your tube cutter to liberate about half an inch of wrapped tube to use as an insert.


Step 4: Fit the pieces of the plunger back together around the tube segment (you may need to shave off a little of your E-tape to get a good fit, you want the seam to be as narrow as possible) and carefully hot-glue all the way around, working the glue as deep as possible into the seam. If you haven't wiped most of the original oil off by now, that may be necessary here. Once the glue cools, use a sharp razor to shave the glue down nearly flush with the plunger. You have a little bit of leeway, and leaving a thin layer of glue probably helps make a good seal when you reassemble anyway.

I also found a couple more Eliminator specifics to watch for:

The orange cap the barrel fits into is all kinds of asymmetric. The top and bottom flanges are wider to one side than the other. The wide side fits into the screw-receiving half of the shell. There's a notch on the barrel-receptacle that fits a post on the barrel, which should also face towards the screw-receiving half of the shell. If the front of your gun isn't closing properly, check the orientation of the cap before forcing it.


There's also a tiny little sight piece that fits in between the halves of the top grip. It is also asymmetric, and only fits one way, but is easy to figure out provided you don't lose it.


So, pending finding the right tube for the barrel, I at least have an Eliminator that survived being forcibly opened and cut on the AR seam, which fires about as well as reported on the IX-1 and still looks fairly good. All tools and materials used (save for a bottle of SAE 20 3-in-one oil for re-lubing) are present for the photo, and as scale reference.

[MostlyHarmless]

I recently bought a 4-pack of these things and distributed three of them to some friends. For the one I kept, I drilled out the AR and added a brass barrel insert, according to Assassin's original instructions.

It worked great for a couple of days, until I shot it and the barrel cap flew off, having broke one of the plastic flanges holding it in. It seems the force of the plunger slamming into the front of the gun was too much for it to handle, and after too much stress the tab just snapped off. Whenever I fire it in this state, the barrel cap comes shooting off, the barrel jumps partly out of the gun body, and the dart only goes a few feet. I tried holding the cap on with superglue, model cement, and 5-minute epoxy, but it still came off after a few shots each time, eventually taking the other tab with it.

Right now I have it held together with duck tape, which works all right except that after each shot you usually have to push the barrel cap back into place, which is pretty annoying and time-consuming in the heat of 'battle' (not to mention it looks ugly as hell). Besides that, it works just fine with great ranges. Has anyone else run into this problem? Any ideas for fixing it?

[cheesypiza001]

I recently bought a 4-pack of these things and distributed three of them to some friends. For the one I kept, I drilled out the AR and added a brass barrel insert, according to Assassin's original instructions.

It worked great for a couple of days, until I shot it and the barrel cap flew off, having broke one of the plastic flanges holding it in. It seems the force of the plunger slamming into the front of the gun was too much for it to handle, and after too much stress the tab just snapped off. Whenever I fire it in this state, the barrel cap comes shooting off, the barrel jumps partly out of the gun body, and the dart only goes a few feet. I tried holding the cap on with superglue, model cement, and 5-minute epoxy, but it still came off after a few shots each time, eventually taking the other tab with it.

Right now I have it held together with duck tape, which works all right except that after each shot you usually have to push the barrel cap back into place, which is pretty annoying and time-consuming in the heat of 'battle' (not to mention it looks ugly as hell). Besides that, it works just fine with great ranges. Has anyone else run into this problem? Any ideas for fixing it?

Something similar happened to me. Just make a pool of hot glue around the barrel. Doing this on both sides will not allow you to open up the gun again, however, it will make sure the barrel does not pop out again.