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There have been 414 items by roboman (Search limited from 12-December 96)
#343430 Calipers or expertise needed!
Posted by roboman on 10 December 2014 - 04:16 PM in Darts and Barrels
#363279 Best aluminum longshot boltsled and spring combo?
Posted by roboman on 16 August 2018 - 05:25 PM in Modifications
Hi. I still make boltsleds and they're $65 each + shipping. They're available through my facebook page. I'm not really active on here anymore so if you have any questions, feel free to send the page a PM or use my email that's listed on there.
Turf springs are the highest quality you can get and are very affordable. They are available here.
#306808 Bullpup, compressed-air (semi-)automatic Nerf rifle
Posted by roboman on 01 November 2011 - 09:56 PM in Homemades
In any case, it sounds like you have some sort of an idea of what you need to do, so I'll see if I can help you out.
From what I can tell, you're basically making a version of what I did last spring, except for Nerf darts instead of ping-pong balls:
(It's fully automatic)
That uses a set of arduino-controlled solenoid valves (one for the cylinder, one for actually shooting the balls). It has a 3" pneumatic cylinder actuating the breech cover, which seals off the "feed hole" fairly well. You could implement something similar in your design - possibly an angel-style breech, so that it can accept standard N-Strike mags without too much air loss.
I wouldn't suggest a sprinkler valve. They're a bit TOO "good" for a Nerf gun - you'll be seriously hurting people. I'd suggest something along the lines of a QEV with a much smaller solenoid valve to pilot it.
Other than that, what you're trying to do is definitely feasible, but probably not practical for nerfing. Most wars would not allow this, since it's a homemade airgun, and, according to your plans, uses a sprinkler valve to fire the dart.
Oh, and you can get a free 5-port, 4-way solenoid valve here. You'll need one if you want to use a pneumatic cylinder in a controlled manner.
#311992 NERF Wars Video (tribute to NERF)
Posted by roboman on 27 February 2012 - 08:59 PM in General Nerf
#313838 Supermaxx 500 Leak
Posted by roboman on 01 April 2012 - 03:32 PM in Modifications
#320881 How much does FBR expand when heated?
Posted by roboman on 22 August 2012 - 11:24 PM in Darts and Barrels
#336150 Questions about batterys and the rapidstrike
Posted by roboman on 29 December 2013 - 07:54 PM in General Nerf
#172886 Modding My Nite Finder And I Have A Quick Question
Posted by roboman on 27 August 2008 - 03:51 PM in Modifications
#340572 SoCal War: G.L.U.E. D.O.M.E.S.
Posted by roboman on 20 July 2014 - 06:52 PM in Nerf Wars
Loosening
Up
Extreme
Dart
Omissions
Makes
Extra
Sense
Where:
Tincher Preparatory School
1701 Petaluma Ave.
Long Beach, CA 90815
When:
Saturday, August 16
10~4
There's a school directly across the street from my house that I've been meaning to host a war at for a while, and I'd like to be able to go to more than one NIC war per year, so I'm hosting this before I go back to college.
Rules are fairly typical for SCUN events.
You are allowed to block anything 5/8" in diameter and under with your blaster. Large ammo (arrows, balls) counts as a shield breaker. I'm not sure about new MEGA darts yet, as I haven't been to a war where anyone actually used them.
Special note: This school has soccer things going on during certain weekends in the summer, so we have to watch out for that. I have not been able to find a schedule for those things. The alternate location is here: Kettering Elementary School - 550 Silvera Avenue, Long Beach, CA 90803 and/or the park directly next to it if that location is taken. It is approximately a 5 minute drive from the original location.
#260077 Auto-opening Ls Breech
Posted by roboman on 29 December 2009 - 12:29 PM in Modifications
#345548 I lost all my retaliator screws
Posted by roboman on 14 March 2015 - 04:35 PM in Modifications
#3-24 thread forming plastic screws are replacements for stock Nerf screws. They're also not terribly cheap in small quantities, so you may actually be able to save money by buying a cheaper blaster and pulling the screws from it.
#355167 B.R.A.D,F.E.S.T. 2. - August 13 SoCal War
Posted by roboman on 23 July 2016 - 08:55 PM in Nerf Wars
2009-STYLE
Where:
Tincher Preparatory School
1701 Petaluma Ave.
Long Beach, CA 90815
When:
Saturday, August 10th 13th
10~4
Fuck yeah, nerfing like it's 2009!
Rules are fairly typical for SCUN events. This location is awesome. This is the August SCUN war. All darts, excluding 'super domes' are allowed. Regarding blaster bans - basically, don't be a dick. If it's too powerful, we'll ask you to stop using it, and if you have any concerns, feel free to PM me. Singled 4Bs are not allowed unless they have a hopper and OPRV. Titans must have an absolver. Homemade airguns are allowed if they aren't stupidly powerful. It is not recommended that anyone under 13 shows up, and if you are under 13 and you show up without a parent that stays the whole time, you'll be kindly asked to leave. Hopefully we won't get rained out like last year.
You are allowed to block anything 5/8" in diameter and under with your blaster. Large ammo (arrows, balls) counts as a shield breaker.
I'm allowing glue domes (not 'super' domes) again unless a large majority of people don't want that to happen. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions or concerns about darts you plan on using.
#202180 Maverick Mod Gone Wrong?
Posted by roboman on 09 January 2009 - 09:21 PM in General Nerf
#272742 The At2k Turret "gear"
Posted by roboman on 20 April 2010 - 12:10 AM in Modifications
Basically, you can't buy that part. If you own or have access to a decent lathe, you could make your own with a knurling tool. Seeing as most people don't, I'm going to make the assumption that you can be lumped into the "lathe-less" category, as well.
Also, that shaft appears to be made of stainless steel, which is very difficult to machine without proper tooling. I highly doubt you could find/make a replacement part for less than the cost of a new turret.
#279981 Are Pms Not Working?
Posted by roboman on 11 July 2010 - 06:39 PM in Site Feedback
I've been trying to contact a member here numerous times, through PM, and on the forums. For some reason, the Sent folder on my control panel doesn't show that I've sent him any PMs, when I've tried twice...
Does anyone know what's going on?
The "sent" folder has never worked for me, but people have received my messages. You'll just have to trust that they've been sent.
#341271 SoCal War: G.L.U.E. D.O.M.E.S.
Posted by roboman on 17 August 2014 - 01:16 PM in Nerf Wars
Pros-
Roboman's special glue un-exploding all of my blasters
They say my special glue has magical healing properties
Anyway, I had a great time and I hope everyone else who made it out there did too. I'll probably be hosting another event there while I'm back for Christmas break (sometime after the Christmas war).
#336152 Questions about batterys and the rapidstrike
Posted by roboman on 29 December 2013 - 08:07 PM in General Nerf
That should be fine.I am using this battery pack My link
#346055 Why is xplorer so expensive!?!
Posted by roboman on 08 April 2015 - 01:18 PM in General Nerf
I do not agree with all of the production methods they use, because there are definitely more efficient and less expensive ways to produce higher quality parts on the scale that they're currently doing. They are still pretty much the only mod kit supplier that is capable of doing all of their production in-house, and they're one of the only ones that offers machined metal parts. OMW's metal parts are die cast, which significantly reduces the overall strength due to the materials available for the process and an inconsistent grain structure as a result of multiple production factors. Mine are currently outsourced to a machine shop in China because I'm too busy with school to do the machining myself (but they have faster machines than I do anyway).
I've heard their shotgun grips have been dropping in quality because their molds are wearing out, causing flashing and poor finish on the parts. You'd think they'd just make another mold set, but I guess Heng doesn't want to do that...
#340880 How is the LA community?
Posted by roboman on 01 August 2014 - 02:36 PM in Nerf Wars
The thread for the G.L.U.E.D.O.M.E.S. war is here. You should definitely try to make it out if you're available.
#244646 Clip Blaster
Posted by roboman on 29 July 2009 - 10:07 PM in General Nerf
I can guess, but I have to check: does it still work if you hold it with the clip sideways or down?
It looks like it does... I can't quite tell, but it appears to use some sort of a rack-and-pinion gear setup to move the mag follower.
Any chance you could provide us with a close-up of the magazine and maybe even its internals?
#244603 Clip Blaster
Posted by roboman on 29 July 2009 - 06:40 PM in General Nerf
I would imagine adding an O-ring to the plunger would increase ranges, if only by a few feet.
Did you happen to test the stock ranges before opening it up?
#301264 Spider Cannon
Posted by roboman on 09 July 2011 - 06:45 PM in Homemades
On another note, hot glue should never be used under pressure. It will tear itself apart, and probably take something with it. At the very least, I suggest that you use epoxy.
Also, could you provide some more information on the blaster itself? It appears to be a water gun of some sort, which would explain the large tank, small pump, cap, and the large number of pumps required to build pressure in the tank.
#304291 Valve Help
Posted by roboman on 04 September 2011 - 05:34 PM in Homemades
(I hope I put up the image the right way.)(why is this so hard?)
I'm having trouble with the grommet's seal on the valve I'm making. I epoxied it into place and the seal will hold up to 20 psi. After that, it leaks from the area between the standoff and the ID of the grommet. How can I fix this? I'm out of delrin so I hope to fix this without having to remachine the whole thing. Perhaps the trouble is because I made this on a drill press instead of a lathe, possibly causing a slight misalignment.
[IMG]http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc374/lighthawk2/ValveDiagram.jpg[/IMG]Copy/paste that in place of the broken image code in your post.
It would really help me if the image was bigger - I can't read the text around it.
From what you've said, your problem could stem from the grommet not being tight enough around the pin. You probably need to make the counterbore where the grommet goes slightly smaller, which means that you'll most likely have to re-make the entire thing. A lathe would be quite helpful.
#304333 Valve Help
Posted by roboman on 05 September 2011 - 11:24 AM in Homemades
It would really help me if the image was bigger - I can't read the text around it.
From what you've said, your problem could stem from the grommet not being tight enough around the pin. You probably need to make the counterbore where the grommet goes slightly smaller, which means that you'll most likely have to re-make the entire thing. A lathe would be quite helpful.
I guess that as long as you can see the picture, I can fill you in on the problem area (the rest doesn't matter.) Basically the main valve ID is 7/16in then it tapers to 1/4in and then it expands to 1/2in to fit in the grommet. It has friction between the firing pin and the grommet already, and the surface area of the ID of the grommet is about an 1/8in deep. I don't have access to a lathe, and I don't really want to have to spend alot of money to get it custom made. I know you do custom work for a relatively cheap price, but it's still an expense I'd like to avoid.
I see. If I correctly understand what Ricochet is saying, he's suggesting a second set of o-rings on the stem. This a a really good idea, as it is easier to implement, especially if you've used a bolt and standoff as your pin. All you'd need to do is make another o-ring "sandwich," like you did before, and install it on the other end of the rod. This would necessitate the removal of the area that normally holds the grommet in place, but should make the valve much easier to produce, should you ever need to make another.
#347597 B.R.A.D.F,E.S.T.
Posted by roboman on 01 July 2015 - 06:57 PM in Nerf Wars
Roboman
Always
Deserves
Fun,
Extra
Summer
Time
Where:
Tincher Preparatory School
1701 Petaluma Ave.
Long Beach, CA 90815
When:
Saturday, July
10~4
Facebook Event Link
(Copy/pasted from G.L.U.E. D.O.M.E.S. last year with slight edits)
Hosting this before I leave for my co-op at Sikorsky on the 25th.
Rules are fairly typical for SCUN events. This location is awesome. This is the July SCUN war. All darts, excluding 'super domes' are allowed. Regarding blaster bans - basically, don't be a dick. If it's too powerful, we'll ask you to stop using it, and if you have any concerns, feel free to PM me. Singled 4Bs are not allowed unless they have a hopper and OPRV. Titans must have an absolver. Homemade airguns are allowed if they aren't stupidly powerful. It is not recommended that anyone under 13 shows up, and if you are under 13 and you show up without a parent that stays the whole time, you'll be kindly asked to leave.
You are allowed to block anything 5/8" in diameter and under with your blaster. Large ammo (arrows, balls) counts as a shield breaker.
#336779 Help with springs!
Posted by roboman on 31 January 2014 - 11:49 PM in Homemades
#336781 Help with springs!
Posted by roboman on 01 February 2014 - 12:10 AM in Homemades
Keep in mind, of course, that whatever you build will have to be beefy enough to stay together under the force of the spring (and the impact when you release it), and your plunger will have to be pretty big to make up for the short stroke.
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