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#325496 L.A.T.E.

Posted by roboman on 19 January 2013 - 11:53 PM in Nerf Wars

I should be able to make it. Mostly depends on what's going on with robotics and all.



#326855 L.A.Z.?Y.

Posted by roboman on 14 February 2013 - 11:43 PM in Nerf Wars

I will probably be there.



#343430 Calipers or expertise needed!

Posted by roboman on 10 December 2014 - 04:16 PM in Darts and Barrels

A ±0.01" tolerance means that the ID of an acceptable piece of tube can be anywhere between .490" and .510". If you want someone else to measure a different piece of tube for you, their measurement is going to be somewhere in between those two limits, and likely not the same as the stuff you'd get if you order it. In my experience you can expect it to be closer to ±0.005", but it still varies between batches (enough that I switched over to the aluminum equivalent, which still isn't great, but is better).



#330015 S.P.A.R.G.L.E.D.

Posted by roboman on 20 May 2013 - 01:05 AM in Nerf Wars

Almost definitely won't be able to make it to this one, since it's both the day after prom, and less than a week before a huge engineering project is due. June should be good, though.



#332439 S.U.M.D.A.G

Posted by roboman on 29 July 2013 - 01:42 AM in Nerf Wars

Not gonna be able to make it to this one. I leave for college on the 17th, so I guess it'll be a while before I can make it out to another SCUN war.



#312821 S.Q.U.A.R.E.

Posted by roboman on 13 March 2012 - 10:27 PM in Nerf Wars

100% sure I'm going, +1.



#363279 Best aluminum longshot boltsled and spring combo?

Posted by roboman on 16 August 2018 - 05:25 PM in Modifications

Hi. I still make boltsleds and they're $65 each + shipping. They're available through my facebook page. I'm not really active on here anymore so if you have any questions, feel free to send the page a PM or use my email that's listed on there. 

 

Turf springs are the highest quality you can get and are very affordable. They are available here.




#306808 Bullpup, compressed-air (semi-)automatic Nerf rifle

Posted by roboman on 01 November 2011 - 09:56 PM in Homemades

Not to be a backseat mod, but these kinds of threads are generally extremely erotic here.

In any case, it sounds like you have some sort of an idea of what you need to do, so I'll see if I can help you out.
From what I can tell, you're basically making a version of what I did last spring, except for Nerf darts instead of ping-pong balls:
Posted Image
(It's fully automatic)

That uses a set of arduino-controlled solenoid valves (one for the cylinder, one for actually shooting the balls). It has a 3" pneumatic cylinder actuating the breech cover, which seals off the "feed hole" fairly well. You could implement something similar in your design - possibly an angel-style breech, so that it can accept standard N-Strike mags without too much air loss.

I wouldn't suggest a sprinkler valve. They're a bit TOO "good" for a Nerf gun - you'll be seriously hurting people. I'd suggest something along the lines of a QEV with a much smaller solenoid valve to pilot it.

Other than that, what you're trying to do is definitely feasible, but probably not practical for nerfing. Most wars would not allow this, since it's a homemade airgun, and, according to your plans, uses a sprinkler valve to fire the dart.

Oh, and you can get a free 5-port, 4-way solenoid valve here. You'll need one if you want to use a pneumatic cylinder in a controlled manner.



#311992 NERF Wars Video (tribute to NERF)

Posted by roboman on 27 February 2012 - 08:59 PM in General Nerf

I must admit, that was of much higher quality and far more entertaining than I imagined when I saw the topic. I've gotta give you props for that.



#313838 Supermaxx 500 Leak

Posted by roboman on 01 April 2012 - 03:32 PM in Modifications

Well, if you haven't already, I'd suggest holding the valve open and blowing some compressed air in with an air compressor or one of those "canned air" things. It might be as simple as a piece of debris on the front wall of the tank or on the rubber itself.



#320881 How much does FBR expand when heated?

Posted by roboman on 22 August 2012 - 11:24 PM in Darts and Barrels

12mm foam is probably your best bet. If anything, just heat it in increments, and test the blanks between each heating cycle. I think you'll have a pretty hard time getting that foam to expand more than .7mm, as that's actually quite a bit.



#336150 Questions about batterys and the rapidstrike

Posted by roboman on 29 December 2013 - 07:54 PM in General Nerf

That mostly depends on how fast you want it to shoot. At higher voltages, you'll have a harder time controlling how many darts you shoot when you pull the trigger. The general consensus seems to be that a 3 cell LiPo (11.1V nominal) is right around the point that it is too fast to easily control. If you're running a 2 cell pack (7.4V nominal), you'll probably be fine if you connect the flywheels and pusher motor to the same pack.



#328189 E.A.R.L.Y.

Posted by roboman on 19 March 2013 - 12:31 AM in Nerf Wars

I'll most likely be there.



#172886 Modding My Nite Finder And I Have A Quick Question

Posted by roboman on 27 August 2008 - 03:51 PM in Modifications

Solder the red wire from the switch to the positive terminal of the mini-mag, and solder the black wire directly to the ground terminal. If the mini-mag has an internal resistor, cut off the existing one inthe gun (the little brown cylinder w/ metal caps), and wire that tab to the positive battery terminal.



#340572 SoCal War: G.L.U.E. D.O.M.E.S.

Posted by roboman on 20 July 2014 - 06:52 PM in Nerf Wars

Gratuitously
Loosening
Up
Extreme

Dart
Omissions
Makes
Extra
Sense

Where:
Tincher Preparatory School
1701 Petaluma Ave.
Long Beach, CA 90815

When:
Saturday, August 16
10~4

There's a school directly across the street from my house that I've been meaning to host a war at for a while, and I'd like to be able to go to more than one NIC war per year, so I'm hosting this before I go back to college.

Rules are fairly typical for SCUN events. To be clear, this is not an "official" SCUN war, whatever that means - it's the first time using this site, and we obviously need to test it out. This is now the August SCUN war. All darts, excluding 'super domes' are allowed. Regarding blaster bans - basically, don't be a dick. If it's too powerful, we'll ask you to stop using it, and if you have any concerns, feel free to PM me. Singled 4Bs are not allowed unless they have a hopper and OPRV. Titans must have an absolver. Homemade airguns are allowed if they aren't stupidly powerful. It is not recommended that anyone under 13 shows up, and if you are under 13 and you show up without a parent that stays the whole time, you'll be kindly asked to leave.

You are allowed to block anything 5/8" in diameter and under with your blaster. Large ammo (arrows, balls) counts as a shield breaker. I'm not sure about new MEGA darts yet, as I haven't been to a war where anyone actually used them.

Special note: This school has soccer things going on during certain weekends in the summer, so we have to watch out for that. I have not been able to find a schedule for those things. The alternate location is here: Kettering Elementary School - 550 Silvera Avenue, Long Beach, CA 90803 and/or the park directly next to it if that location is taken. It is approximately a 5 minute drive from the original location.



#260077 Auto-opening Ls Breech

Posted by roboman on 29 December 2009 - 12:29 PM in Modifications

Of course, you could just apply a dab of ABS pipe cement to the two surfaces, and they would be inseparable. I did this, originally with hot glue, but ended up removing the door entirely, since it was getting in the way.



#345548 I lost all my retaliator screws

Posted by roboman on 14 March 2015 - 04:35 PM in Modifications

99461A825

#3-24 thread forming plastic screws are replacements for stock Nerf screws. They're also not terribly cheap in small quantities, so you may actually be able to save money by buying a cheaper blaster and pulling the screws from it.



#355167 B.R.A.D,F.E.S.T. 2. - August 13 SoCal War

Posted by roboman on 23 July 2016 - 08:55 PM in Nerf Wars

BRADFEST
REPEATED
AGAIN
DUH,
FRIENDS
ESTABLISH
SUPER
TEAMS

 

2009-STYLE

 

Where:
Tincher Preparatory School
1701 Petaluma Ave.
Long Beach, CA 90815

When:
Saturday, August 10th 13th
10~4

 

Fuck yeah, nerfing like it's 2009! 

 

Rules are fairly typical for SCUN events. This location is awesome. This is the August SCUN war. All darts, excluding 'super domes' are allowed. Regarding blaster bans - basically, don't be a dick. If it's too powerful, we'll ask you to stop using it, and if you have any concerns, feel free to PM me. Singled 4Bs are not allowed unless they have a hopper and OPRV. Titans must have an absolver. Homemade airguns are allowed if they aren't stupidly powerful. It is not recommended that anyone under 13 shows up, and if you are under 13 and you show up without a parent that stays the whole time, you'll be kindly asked to leave. Hopefully we won't get rained out like last year.

 

You are allowed to block anything 5/8" in diameter and under with your blaster. Large ammo (arrows, balls) counts as a shield breaker. 

 

I'm allowing glue domes (not 'super' domes) again unless a large majority of people don't want that to happen. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions or concerns about darts you plan on using. 

 




#202180 Maverick Mod Gone Wrong?

Posted by roboman on 09 January 2009 - 09:21 PM in General Nerf

Pictures would help...



#304764 S.P.U.D.

Posted by roboman on 16 September 2011 - 09:24 PM in Nerf Wars

I'll be there, and I'll have one of the new Vortex guns for "testing."



#272742 The At2k Turret "gear"

Posted by roboman on 20 April 2010 - 12:10 AM in Modifications

There are no gears in an AT2K. I'm assuming, by "gear," that you're referencing the knurled shaft that runs through the center of the turret.

Basically, you can't buy that part. If you own or have access to a decent lathe, you could make your own with a knurling tool. Seeing as most people don't, I'm going to make the assumption that you can be lumped into the "lathe-less" category, as well.

Also, that shaft appears to be made of stainless steel, which is very difficult to machine without proper tooling. I highly doubt you could find/make a replacement part for less than the cost of a new turret.



#279981 Are Pms Not Working?

Posted by roboman on 11 July 2010 - 06:39 PM in Site Feedback

I've been trying to contact a member here numerous times, through PM, and on the forums. For some reason, the Sent folder on my control panel doesn't show that I've sent him any PMs, when I've tried twice...

Does anyone know what's going on?


The "sent" folder has never worked for me, but people have received my messages. You'll just have to trust that they've been sent.



#341271 SoCal War: G.L.U.E. D.O.M.E.S.

Posted by roboman on 17 August 2014 - 01:16 PM in Nerf Wars

Pros-
Roboman's special glue un-exploding all of my blasters


They say my special glue has magical healing properties ;)

Anyway, I had a great time and I hope everyone else who made it out there did too. I'll probably be hosting another event there while I'm back for Christmas break (sometime after the Christmas war).



#336152 Questions about batterys and the rapidstrike

Posted by roboman on 29 December 2013 - 08:07 PM in General Nerf

I am using this battery pack My link

That should be fine.



#346055 Why is xplorer so expensive!?!

Posted by roboman on 08 April 2015 - 01:18 PM in General Nerf

The prices reflect the labor rate of a typical prototype shop. They do not (and cannot) run large-volume production, so individual unit costs are relatively high due to the lack of automation and need for a lot of hand-finishing. I do not agree with the design of their metal boltsleds, because they're literally designed to fail above certain spring loads. They're also designed to be as cheap as possible to manufacture, which is why they come in multiple pieces that are screwed together.


I do not agree with all of the production methods they use, because there are definitely more efficient and less expensive ways to produce higher quality parts on the scale that they're currently doing. They are still pretty much the only mod kit supplier that is capable of doing all of their production in-house, and they're one of the only ones that offers machined metal parts. OMW's metal parts are die cast, which significantly reduces the overall strength due to the materials available for the process and an inconsistent grain structure as a result of multiple production factors. Mine are currently outsourced to a machine shop in China because I'm too busy with school to do the machining myself (but they have faster machines than I do anyway).

I've heard their shotgun grips have been dropping in quality because their molds are wearing out, causing flashing and poor finish on the parts. You'd think they'd just make another mold set, but I guess Heng doesn't want to do that...



#340880 How is the LA community?

Posted by roboman on 01 August 2014 - 02:36 PM in Nerf Wars

A vast majority of the SCUN guys aren't active on NIC forums. We have wars every other month or so, and as Mysterio said, there's one in Long Beach on the 16th that I'm hosting. We usually see 10-15 people at our smaller events, and generally around 40 at Armageddon. There's another group based in Norwalk that primarily uses lightly modded Elite gear and does a lot of HvZ.

The thread for the G.L.U.E.D.O.M.E.S. war is here. You should definitely try to make it out if you're available.



#314306 B.A.C.K.L.O.G.

Posted by roboman on 11 April 2012 - 09:21 PM in Nerf Wars

I should be there.



#328182 W.H.O.O.P.S.

Posted by roboman on 18 March 2013 - 11:30 PM in Nerf Wars

Won't be able to make it this time around. Robotics competitions for the next two weeks.



#244646 Clip Blaster

Posted by roboman on 29 July 2009 - 10:07 PM in General Nerf

I can guess, but I have to check: does it still work if you hold it with the clip sideways or down?


It looks like it does... I can't quite tell, but it appears to use some sort of a rack-and-pinion gear setup to move the mag follower.

Any chance you could provide us with a close-up of the magazine and maybe even its internals?



#244603 Clip Blaster

Posted by roboman on 29 July 2009 - 06:40 PM in General Nerf

Interesting mod... At least the magazine looks like it has some potential...

I would imagine adding an O-ring to the plunger would increase ranges, if only by a few feet.

Did you happen to test the stock ranges before opening it up?



#181577 Pressure Bladder Now, Gun Later

Posted by roboman on 04 October 2008 - 08:08 PM in Homemades

I wouldn't use hot glue, if I were you. That stuff can barely hold any pressure at all, and it looks really ugly.



#301264 Spider Cannon

Posted by roboman on 09 July 2011 - 06:45 PM in Homemades

Is there any particular reason why you decided to remove the stock trigger valve? Ball valves are very slow to open.

On another note, hot glue should never be used under pressure. It will tear itself apart, and probably take something with it. At the very least, I suggest that you use epoxy.

Also, could you provide some more information on the blaster itself? It appears to be a water gun of some sort, which would explain the large tank, small pump, cap, and the large number of pumps required to build pressure in the tank.



#297343 R.H.H.O.M.B.U.S.S

Posted by roboman on 19 April 2011 - 10:09 PM in Nerf Wars

Damn, I won't be able to come. I really wish I could, but I'll be in St. Louis for FIRST robotics World Championship. Oh well, I hope I can make it to the May war...



#304291 Valve Help

Posted by roboman on 04 September 2011 - 05:34 PM in Homemades

Posted Image

(I hope I put up the image the right way.) (why is this so hard?)

I'm having trouble with the grommet's seal on the valve I'm making. I epoxied it into place and the seal will hold up to 20 psi. After that, it leaks from the area between the standoff and the ID of the grommet. How can I fix this? I'm out of delrin so I hope to fix this without having to remachine the whole thing. Perhaps the trouble is because I made this on a drill press instead of a lathe, possibly causing a slight misalignment.


[IMG]http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc374/lighthawk2/ValveDiagram.jpg[/IMG]
Copy/paste that in place of the broken image code in your post.

It would really help me if the image was bigger - I can't read the text around it.
From what you've said, your problem could stem from the grommet not being tight enough around the pin. You probably need to make the counterbore where the grommet goes slightly smaller, which means that you'll most likely have to re-make the entire thing. A lathe would be quite helpful.



#304333 Valve Help

Posted by roboman on 05 September 2011 - 11:24 AM in Homemades

It would really help me if the image was bigger - I can't read the text around it.
From what you've said, your problem could stem from the grommet not being tight enough around the pin. You probably need to make the counterbore where the grommet goes slightly smaller, which means that you'll most likely have to re-make the entire thing. A lathe would be quite helpful.


I guess that as long as you can see the picture, I can fill you in on the problem area (the rest doesn't matter.) Basically the main valve ID is 7/16in then it tapers to 1/4in and then it expands to 1/2in to fit in the grommet. It has friction between the firing pin and the grommet already, and the surface area of the ID of the grommet is about an 1/8in deep. I don't have access to a lathe, and I don't really want to have to spend alot of money to get it custom made. I know you do custom work for a relatively cheap price, but it's still an expense I'd like to avoid.


I see. If I correctly understand what Ricochet is saying, he's suggesting a second set of o-rings on the stem. This a a really good idea, as it is easier to implement, especially if you've used a bolt and standoff as your pin. All you'd need to do is make another o-ring "sandwich," like you did before, and install it on the other end of the rod. This would necessitate the removal of the area that normally holds the grommet in place, but should make the valve much easier to produce, should you ever need to make another.



#347597 B.R.A.D.F,E.S.T.

Posted by roboman on 01 July 2015 - 06:57 PM in Nerf Wars

Because
Roboman
Always
Deserves
Fun,
Extra
Summer
Time

Where:
Tincher Preparatory School
1701 Petaluma Ave.
Long Beach, CA 90815

When:
Saturday, July 11 18th NOW
10~4

Facebook Event Link

(Copy/pasted from G.L.U.E. D.O.M.E.S. last year with slight edits)

Hosting this before I leave for my co-op at Sikorsky on the 25th.

Rules are fairly typical for SCUN events. This location is awesome. This is the July SCUN war. All darts, excluding 'super domes' are allowed. Regarding blaster bans - basically, don't be a dick. If it's too powerful, we'll ask you to stop using it, and if you have any concerns, feel free to PM me. Singled 4Bs are not allowed unless they have a hopper and OPRV. Titans must have an absolver. Homemade airguns are allowed if they aren't stupidly powerful. It is not recommended that anyone under 13 shows up, and if you are under 13 and you show up without a parent that stays the whole time, you'll be kindly asked to leave.

You are allowed to block anything 5/8" in diameter and under with your blaster. Large ammo (arrows, balls) counts as a shield breaker.



#336779 Help with springs!

Posted by roboman on 31 January 2014 - 11:49 PM in Homemades

Well, you can figure out the spring constant with F=kx, where k is the spring constant (lbs/inch, in this case), F is the force exerted, and x is the amount of deflection. If you divide 8 lbs by .2", you get 40 lbs per inch, assuming your measurements are accurate. That means that at full compression (3" deflection), the spring load is 120 lbs, which is almost certainly too heavy for you to prime without a system that provides a bunch of mechanical advantage.



#336781 Help with springs!

Posted by roboman on 01 February 2014 - 12:10 AM in Homemades

507 Mechanical Movements is a really good resource for that kind of thing. You're gonna wanna go past all of the pulley-based stuff, obviously, unless you want a block and tackle on whatever you end up building. Take a look at the toggle mechanisms for punches, like #140, among other things.

Keep in mind, of course, that whatever you build will have to be beefy enough to stay together under the force of the spring (and the impact when you release it), and your plunger will have to be pretty big to make up for the short stroke.



#244784 Bite It Mac Owners!

Posted by roboman on 30 July 2009 - 09:39 PM in Off Topic

Your right i have a PC with Firefox and love it, but everyone i know with a Mac uses Safari.


That's funny, every Mac user that I know of (including myself) uses Firefox. I find that Safari has flaws, and isn't compatible with many websites.



#244781 Bite It Mac Owners!

Posted by roboman on 30 July 2009 - 09:25 PM in Off Topic

How do you Mac users feel now?


Perfectly safe. If you're not using Firefox, something is wrong with you (no offense, Safari lovers).