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There have been 189 items by Shadow 92 (Search limited from 14-December 96)
#95147 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by Shadow 92 on 24 November 2006 - 12:48 PM in Modifications
And here's my BBB. It was my first modified rifle and my first gun to shoot past the 50 foot mark. I was amazed by how much further it shot with just a crayola barrel. It has a tight fit with my darts but isn't enough t hinder the ROF. I also lightened the plunger by drilling a ton of holes on the large, winged-shape pieces on the plunger. I figured it was just dead weight. It shoots 57' flat consistently and up to 125' angled but doesn't have the accuracy my Longshot has.
#162032 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by Shadow 92 on 08 July 2008 - 11:16 PM in Modifications
EDIT: The Magstrike isn't fully fuctional right now. I just put there to show where it would be once I get the bolt to start working. Later on I think I'll cut off the lip and slide it in from a hole in the right side of the MS. The bolt should also be a lot shorter, just long enough to reach the front of the clip.
Also still in works. I'm almost finished. I just have to make enough room for the trigger and smooth out the rotation system, and attach the pump.
#102969 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by Shadow 92 on 29 April 2007 - 12:20 PM in Modifications
Here's my Longshot. It has a 10" aluminum barrel that fits my darts loosely. It has a BBB spring and a plunger head reinforcement. Range is about 85-90.
This is my Nite-Mav. It's almost finished. I just have to readjust the trigger plate, but is otherwise perfectly functional. All of the pieces were made from 1/16" polycarbonate. The catch guard was secured using some epoxy gel and the trigger plate and plunger tube is screwed on. There is also a piece of polycarbonate up in the front of the plunger tube that redirects air only to the barrels.
These two Nite Finders are my new favorites. The first one is minimized and has ammo holders in the battery case. The second has a Home Depot spring, a longer screw supporting the plunger head, a reinforced plunger rod, and has been lubricated with silicon spray. I had to reinforce it because the force of the spring would cause the plunger rod to bend to the side.
What makes these two special are their barrels. I haven't seen anything like them before. The barrels are regular 1/2" PETG ordered from McMaster. I wanted a progressive barrel but I didn't want the added weight or the cost of brass. So, I ordered a .51 drill bit and a .53 drill bit from McMaster. They were each about $12.00. With the .51 bit I drilled about 4" from the top. And with the .53 I drilled 2" from the top. I was able to simulate the nesting effects of brass with PETG. It's the brass equivalent of having placing 1" of 1/2 and 3" of 17/32 in 5" of 19/32. These Nite Finders were intended as a prototype for spring powered turreted guns like the DTG and the Firefly.
Comments?
#102701 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by Shadow 92 on 27 April 2007 - 11:10 PM in Modifications
This is my Airtech 4000. I took the turret out to see if I could fix it and I ended up breaking it even more. So I singled it. It has a 12" .5" PVC barrel in a .5" coupler. It shot about 85 before the pump started leaking.
Here's my Titan. I can't seem to get it to pass 90 without the darts spiraling out of control. Probably because I forgot to put weights in my latest batch of mega darts. For indoor wars I use a 6" barrel with stock darts at three to four pumps. That way, I can use my Titan without leaving holes in the wall ........... and people.
The last of my mega guns. The barrel was a vast improvement over the Crayola that I previously used. I can now accurately hit a plastic cup 9/10 times from 30 feet away. Max the gun gets about 75.
There's more on the way.
#91062 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by Shadow 92 on 02 October 2006 - 12:47 PM in Modifications
Not much here. The SM3K has a trigger fix and it's pump is plugged. The LS still needs to be glued on, but both parts have their air restricters removed. And last are my DTGs, only the air resticters were removed.
Nice job on the Vaporizer/ Airtech intergration Trogdor!
What did you use to cover the Nerf logos when you painted your Longshot Boltsniper?
#95493 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by Shadow 92 on 28 November 2006 - 04:44 PM in Modifications
1. The difference in range is because the angled range isn't an average. I fired twenty shots from each and took the average distance for the flat range. I then took the three darts that went over 100' (in the case of my Longshot) and fired those at an angle. I did this to find the maximum range. Other variables might be the angle I fired at. I fired it at a 45 degree angle which may or may not be the angle most people use to measure their gun's angled range.I don't see how the difference in your range with your angled to flat shots, that is not possible, or it doesn't seem that way. I have seen BBBs used as primaries, and 60 feet isn't very good for a primary, unless the ROF is amazing. My AT1K gets 65 (flat, I'm not shitting you) and the ROF is much better than my BBB. And where did you get that alluminum?
2. My BBB isn't my primary my LS is. The crayola barrel is just a temporary fix until I can get some brass, then I'm hoping I can get it to around 90'.
3. Actually, I'm not even sure it is aluminum. I found it in my house and I think it was part of a towel rack. It was originally 18'' long so I used the spare 8'' for the barrel of my now singled AT4K (I accidentally snapped a gear in half on the already broken rotation mechanism). The reason I think it's aluminum is because it's a silvery color and aluminum is a common metal so the chances of it being aluminum are high. I just hope it's not lead. If you're into buying stuff online, then you can find it on McMaster-Carr. If not, then I guess your best bet would be Ace.
Falcon, was that PJ? Also, don't the four brass barrels make the X-bow extremely front heavy?
#125301 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by Shadow 92 on 07 October 2007 - 10:07 AM in Modifications
#90452 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by Shadow 92 on 25 September 2006 - 10:25 AM in Modifications
On a side note what color/scheme should I paint my X-bow? I just finished everything on it and it needs a color other than purple and silver duct tape. ....What do you think? This gun needs a paintjob, but what??
Paint the body blue, the grips black and the barrels and plunger rod silver all with Metalcast. Kind of like a first edition NF.
Yeah Falcon's right, you don't want to be painting over duct tape.
#125306 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by Shadow 92 on 07 October 2007 - 11:10 AM in Modifications
Yeah, I used Gimp. Graphic Image Modifiyer Program. I just took a picture of the Magstike's outside and a picture of the internals from the same camera angle. I then used Gimp to layer the pictures on top of each other, making the picture of the Magstrike's outside translucent.What the hell? I'm assuming you did that with some sort of computer program.
#107416 Homemades Picture Thread
Posted by Shadow 92 on 24 May 2007 - 04:12 PM in Homemades
As for ranges, I haven't been able to test it with darts. I still have to widen the barrel with my drill bit so all I've been doing is shooting rubber balls. The balls however fire extremely fast, traveling 35' with only a 2" drop.
#107998 Homemades Picture Thread
Posted by Shadow 92 on 28 May 2007 - 05:29 PM in Homemades
Here it is with a ported 12" barrel. It fires about 75'.
And here it is with a ported 16" barrel. With it I can fire about 85-90'.
The porting is kind of useless with the SNAPs because the air isn't moving fast enough for it to effectively silence the gun since there's a huge, metal plunger head smacking the front of the gun every time I fire. The barrels were originally intended for my Titan which is somewhat quieter with the barrels.
#98886 Longshot Modification.
Posted by Shadow 92 on 28 January 2007 - 10:25 AM in Modifications
#98909 Longshot Modification.
Posted by Shadow 92 on 28 January 2007 - 08:22 PM in Modifications
Here's my ten minute paint drawing of it.
The light gray is the 9/16, the blue is the 17/32, the green is the 1/2 and the other color is the 19/32.
#90601 Where To Buy Modding Materials
Posted by Shadow 92 on 27 September 2006 - 11:19 AM in Modifications
This should help. I think Anima suggested it.
It's not really a material used for modding, but for homemades. Where can I get blow gun triggers, the ones used in modded sprinkler valves? Also, where can I get PETG or some other lightweight, translucent plastic tubing with a 17/32 and 19/32 ID? Thanks in advance for the help.
#99905 Beginner's Guide To Machining Plastics
Posted by Shadow 92 on 16 February 2007 - 09:51 AM in Modifications
So do you think that this will work?Smaller lathes may work, provided that their jaw chuck opens wide enough to hole the rod you are trying to work on. Unfortunately I'm kind of spoiled and have never used smaller models. I'm more used to larger machine lathes that are the size of church organs. You should be able to drill as deep as the stroke arm is capable.
#99816 Beginner's Guide To Machining Plastics
Posted by Shadow 92 on 14 February 2007 - 08:52 PM in Modifications
So you're saying that I can order the drill bits through Mcmaster even though they aren't plastic drill bits? I planned on using the 1/5" PETG from Mcmaster and using the drill bits to widen the inner diameter of the barrel with the exact same ID as a nested brass barrel. This way I would be able to to put progressive barrels on a turreted gun like a DTG without worrying about the barrels being too heavy. And if I can't use the drill bits to widen the ID of the PETG, how would I do it with a lathe? Also, what kind of lathe would I have to buy, a metal working or a woodworking?2. 0.5312" = 17/32"
0.5033" does not exist
0.5" = 1/2" and is quite common
They're available through mcmaster, but if you are planning on making your own barrels it is not advised to attempt doing so unless you have access to a quality machine lathe. It's advisable to simply purchase the tubes you need that already have the inner diameter that you require.
#99630 Beginner's Guide To Machining Plastics
Posted by Shadow 92 on 11 February 2007 - 05:32 PM in Modifications
I've got a couple questions:
1. What is heat warping and why would you use it?
2. Where can I get plastic drill bits that are .5345", .5033", and .5" wide?
3. Do you recomend any good brands for scroll saws?
Thanks
#99821 Beginner's Guide To Machining Plastics
Posted by Shadow 92 on 14 February 2007 - 09:25 PM in Modifications
The only problem with the aluminum is that I won't have a progressive barrel. It looks like a promising substitute for my air guns and when I need a lightweight barrel but other than that it won't work for the jobs I have in mind. The PETG I'm using is the 1/2 ID and 3/4 OD variety so do you think that the walls will be thick enough? Also what makes dilling the PETG so touchy? As long as I clamp it down and drill straight I should be fine, right?If you want an ideal cost effective barrel material I would recommend mcmaster part# 1658T49
Alloy 6063 Aluminum Round Tube .625" OD, .527" ID, 8' Length = $7.41 for 6 feet
I recommend that you NOT consider attempting changing the inner diameter of or trying to drill your own barrels out of plastic unless the tubing you have has very thick walls.
And even then it's very touchy work that requires quality tools (we're talking $2000+ machining tools here).
#99876 Beginner's Guide To Machining Plastics
Posted by Shadow 92 on 15 February 2007 - 08:00 PM in Modifications
So what kind of lathe should I get and how would I use it to widen the hole? And will I still be able to widen the hole even if I'm widen something that is a foot long?The only exception is on a lathe. If you are trying to do anything to change the dimensions of a plastic cylinder, it has to be done on a lathe. Otherwise your results will be terrible or extremely dangerous.
#89216 New Longshot Mod/integration
Posted by Shadow 92 on 06 September 2006 - 05:56 PM in Modifications
#89129 New Longshot Mod/integration
Posted by Shadow 92 on 05 September 2006 - 05:43 PM in Modifications
I think Athena would be an excellent name for it, because she represented the disciplined and honored side of war as opposed to Aeris, who represented the chaos and distress of war.
#90688 Guide To Barrel Material
Posted by Shadow 92 on 28 September 2006 - 01:22 PM in Modifications
#97830 Guide To Barrel Material
Posted by Shadow 92 on 06 January 2007 - 10:24 PM in Modifications
(Sorry for the double post)
#97836 Guide To Barrel Material
Posted by Shadow 92 on 07 January 2007 - 12:12 AM in Modifications
#132083 Trigger Designs
Posted by Shadow 92 on 11 December 2007 - 06:59 PM in Homemades
I designed it mostly as a proof of concept sort of thing. The goal was a blaster that was both relatively compact and powerful.These valves can easily be converted for use with nerf applications with amazing results. In fact, I'm guessing that a design such as the one below has enough power to act as a cannon for multiple Mongo Stefans and be around the same size as a Big SNAP.
Heres what I'm designing now. I know its not nerf, but designing a semi auto paintball-type gun is a lot easier than designing a new semi auto nerf gun. Its works off a two way valve that uses air pressure to move a bolt and fire a ball. The general design is based on the Smart Parts Ion with some changes to make it fire at a lower pressure. The trade off is that the bolt will only be able to move around five times a second compared to fifteen. The numbers aren't real, just rough guesses.
#125724 Trigger Designs
Posted by Shadow 92 on 10 October 2007 - 06:51 PM in Homemades
Piston Valves
These valves can easily be converted for use with nerf applications with amazing results. In fact, I'm guessing that a design such as the one below has enough power to act as a cannon for multiple Mongo Stefans and be around the same size as a Big SNAP.
#123841 Trigger Designs
Posted by Shadow 92 on 22 September 2007 - 02:57 PM in Homemades
This is the valve at rest. The spring holds the piston back keeping it sealed. The piston is now composed of a threaded rod with rubber fender washers, steel fender washers, and some nuts. This will allow the piston to be adjusted to match the desired trigger pull.
Valve opened.
Due to the speed of the sprinkler valve's opening time, the pilot valve should only have to remain open for a short amount of time (as demonstrated in the picture below).
Valve closed/ sealed off
After the valve is opened, it is immediately sealed off when the trigger is pulled a certain length. This allows the sprinkler valve to be opened and closed at a predetermined time, creating a semi automatic valve.
Valve in full auto position
If the sprinkler valve and pilot valve are connected to a homemade with components similar to a Magstrike or Rapid Fire 20, then the valve can be used for fully automatic firing. By fully depressing the trigger, the pilot valve remains open, allowing a constant supply of air flow. If the pilot and solenoid valve is connected to a regular airtank, then this mode can be used to dump the entire supply of air.
#123659 Trigger Designs
Posted by Shadow 92 on 20 September 2007 - 12:40 PM in Homemades
This picture reflects my influence from Dr. Nerf's semi-auto valve.
Valve at rest
Valve open
Valve sealed off
More details later...
EDIT: just realized that the valve still vents air even when it's "sealed off."
#118362 The Eyes Of Fire.
Posted by Shadow 92 on 05 August 2007 - 11:34 AM in Modifications
I'm guessing that you can unload that thing about 25 times (1000 shots/ 40 darts) before the tank empties. So how do you plan on refilling the HPA tank? Do you plan on taking it to a paintball store? I guess if you use this strictly for assassin games then you wouldn't have a problem though.
#103841 Diy: External Air Tank
Posted by Shadow 92 on 03 May 2007 - 09:22 PM in Homemades
#102653 A.b.p
Posted by Shadow 92 on 27 April 2007 - 06:51 PM in Homemades
If you have the choice between PETG and brass, I'd say go with PETG. Since it's lighter it should decrease the overall weight of the gun (albeit if only by a few grams) and require slightly less force to move the bolt.
#102590 A.b.p
Posted by Shadow 92 on 25 April 2007 - 05:38 PM in Homemades
I think I can help you with that. Awhile back I tried to design a true semi-auto gun that ran off low pressure air. When looking for designs to base it off of I found these paintball diagrams. (Not my pics)Okay, this design never went anywhere due to lack of time but I've been researching pneumatic control parts and I'm working on an HPA tank and regulator setup so I'm reincarnating this project.
3. As many ready-made parts as possible to reduce machining time
The original valve design works identically to commercially available directional control valves. Buying one of those will save me a ton of time.
4. Redesign breech actuator
The current position and configuration involves too much friction, too many individual parts, and not enough surface area for the working pressure to operate against. This part will be moved to ahead of and above the breech.
I decided with all the millions of dollars they pour into paintball R&D the current designs must be the most efficent and quickest out there.
As you can see from the pics, the Angel (the fastest firing marker EVER) uses a limited number of parts and is therefore more efficient. And if you intend to use solenoid valves to control firing, I suggest using paintball solenoids. They're smaller, need less energy, and can handle more pressure than standard valves.
#159841 The Snap-1 Mk2
Posted by Shadow 92 on 20 June 2008 - 01:48 PM in Homemades
I don't think that the gun would rotate as much as you say it would in real life. Flexor tendons in the wrist should be able to overcome most of that force.
#108799 Dartsmithing Tips Archive
Posted by Shadow 92 on 01 June 2007 - 04:53 PM in Darts and Barrels
I have never tried this but putting the darts in a pillowcase and blowing with a hairdryer on warm is a method Ive heard of.
I'm pretty sure that's what the original author of the NerfHQ Stefan article does too. As for straitening my darts I tape 5' sections to my walls and tape three or four marbles to the bottom. After three days, they're usually as thin as CDTS.
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