Now I know this is my first post here, but I've been at NHQ for almost a year and a half, and before that at NO for a few months before they shut down so I'm not really a nOOb.
A few weeks ago I picked up at a KB toys, a Blue version SM3K, I had heard it was a very bad gun, but since it was only twelve dollars, I got it. The first mod I did was the obvious one, plug that air release hole on the pump, and that drastically improved the range of the gun, but I wasn't happy with it, yet.
The next mod was an undertaking of about eight plus hours:
First, I removed the barrel assembly. Next I pried off the orange cap on top of the blue thing that held the barrels apart, I found it had a screw that held the cap to the blue "seperator" (as I'll call it just for simplicity) after I pried it off, which I got rid of. I then took wire cutters and cut off the orange tabs that stick off of the barrels over the seperator. Next, I tuned the barrel assembly over, and unscrewed the four screws that held the seperator to the base. After that, I placed the barrel assembly, barrels down, on a sturdy surface, placed a two inch finishing nail, head first, down one of the smaller holes in between the barrel's air holes. I then tapped it with a hammer, and the seperator came out. Next I tried several methods to remove the barrels, and none of them worked until I came to this one. I used a blow dryer to heat the plastic until it was uncomforable to handle (About 45 seconds on high) I then simply pried the barrels out, and removed the air restrictor stuff. Next, I replaced the barrels with 4" each of PVC. Now, you may wish to use a diffrent method than I did, fine, don't bite my head off. I used 1 1/2" sections of 1/2"OD, 3/8"ID vynal(sp) tubing to connect the barrels to the base. First I wraped one end in electrical tape, just large enough to be a snug fit in the PVC, and wraped the other end in electrical tape just large enough to be a snug fit in the base. I then jammed the vynal(sp) into the PVC, and the PVC with the vynal(sp) into the base. Finally, I reattached the seperator, taped the barrels together at the base, the top of the seperator, and near the ends, and reassembled the gun.
I range tested the gun afterwards, and it got: 100-120 feet on four pumps.
Tinkerer's Content
There have been 195 items by Tinkerer (Search limited from 18-December 96)
#24272 Sm3k Blue
Posted by
on 14 April 2004 - 09:00 PM
in
Modifications
#24282 Sm3k Blue
Posted by
on 14 April 2004 - 09:29 PM
in
Modifications
I used Vynal to connect the barrels to the to the base because it was all I had handy. If that's not what your talking about, I used PVC for the barrels because there aren't any local stores that sell brass.
Yes, it's angled, and the rotation mechanism is holding up alright, but it sticks a little, i guess because of the added weight.
Yes, it's angled, and the rotation mechanism is holding up alright, but it sticks a little, i guess because of the added weight.
#24291 Sm3k Blue
Posted by
on 14 April 2004 - 09:54 PM
in
Modifications
You're kidding right? I just read that thread in general nerf disussion where you banned Wolf and that other guy, and now I read this!
#24311 Sm3k Blue
Posted by
on 15 April 2004 - 09:40 AM
in
Modifications
well, I'm glad that's cleared up
#24338 Newbish Ammo Question.
Posted by
on 15 April 2004 - 05:13 PM
in
General Nerf
I have an SM250, but I found that airjet micro darts tear because the holes in the back are too small for the pegs on the sm250.
#24402 Sm3k Blue
Posted by
on 16 April 2004 - 07:09 PM
in
Modifications
well, mine doesn't look nearly that good, here's the pic, I hope it works: Da link
#24433 Sm3k Blue
Posted by
on 17 April 2004 - 02:53 PM
in
Modifications
you know, I was thinking of integrating a sm1500 into it, do you think it would do better on the side or the top?
#24436 Rf20 & Wildfire
Posted by
on 17 April 2004 - 06:42 PM
in
Modifications
are the rotating barrels of the wildfire and RF20 interchangeable?
#24446 Rf20 & Wildfire
Posted by
on 17 April 2004 - 09:02 PM
in
Modifications
what about the air bladders? Are they interchangeable?
#24686 Sm3k Blue
Posted by
on 23 April 2004 - 05:57 PM
in
Modifications
I also nested eight crayola barrels into the PVC, so it shoots micros well too. Also, the thing that connects the turret to the valve, well, the spring that was on it got lost, and I replaced it with some 16 guage steel wire, better seal.
#24757 Computer Blueprints
Posted by
on 24 April 2004 - 06:46 PM
in
Homemades
Speaking of which, I have that, and I'm not very good at it, but either way, how do you export the models from Gmax anyway?Gmax just seems to lack proper model export protocols....
#24761 Rf20 External Banding?
Posted by
on 24 April 2004 - 08:17 PM
in
Modifications
well Tex, If your air tank is leaking, or you are afraid of it blowing off, put on a hose clamp, that's what I did.
#24765 Nerf Mine
Posted by
on 24 April 2004 - 08:28 PM
in
Homemades
I've been thinking about nerf mines lately, and I came up with this idea.
You begin by cutting two circular rubber sheets about a foot in diameter.
You next epoxy a short spring onto the center of both pieces of rubber.
Next, epoxy and seal the edges of the two pieces together.
After that, punch a hole in one of the rubber sheets and insert some vinal tubing into the hole and seal it.
Next attach and seal the other end to a piece of PVC, CPVC, PETG, brass, copper, or whatever.
you then epoxy two nails (reeeeeeeaaaaaaaly long ones) to the pipe at a 150 degree angle.
you would use it by placing the air bladder along where someone might pass, and jam the two nails into the ground so that the pipe points towards the mine, and load a dart into the pipe.
So, basically, when someone steps on the air bladder, the air pressure goes through the hose, into the barrel, and shoots the dart at whatever is directly above the mine. Then, when the victim steps off the mine, the spring re-enflates the bladder, and all you have to do is put another dart in it.
You begin by cutting two circular rubber sheets about a foot in diameter.
You next epoxy a short spring onto the center of both pieces of rubber.
Next, epoxy and seal the edges of the two pieces together.
After that, punch a hole in one of the rubber sheets and insert some vinal tubing into the hole and seal it.
Next attach and seal the other end to a piece of PVC, CPVC, PETG, brass, copper, or whatever.
you then epoxy two nails (reeeeeeeaaaaaaaly long ones) to the pipe at a 150 degree angle.
you would use it by placing the air bladder along where someone might pass, and jam the two nails into the ground so that the pipe points towards the mine, and load a dart into the pipe.
So, basically, when someone steps on the air bladder, the air pressure goes through the hose, into the barrel, and shoots the dart at whatever is directly above the mine. Then, when the victim steps off the mine, the spring re-enflates the bladder, and all you have to do is put another dart in it.
#24766 Nerf Mine
Posted by
on 24 April 2004 - 08:30 PM
in
Homemades
OOPS! I put this in the wrong forum, could someone move this into homemades?
#24811 Nerf Mine
Posted by
on 25 April 2004 - 03:03 PM
in
Homemades
or, let's say you're nerfing in tall grass, or somewhere where there are alot of leaves, then Its easier to hide. Also, paint, trust me, it works, it won't make the mine invisible, but, it wouldn't stand out quite as much, and someone who isn't paying attention to the ground so much, (like someone being chased) might not notice until the step on it. and by the way, this is just a concept, I'll work on it.
#25237 Ultimate Artillery
Posted by
on 30 April 2004 - 05:53 PM
in
Homemades
Alright, another idea. This would be a kind of killer artillery you'd use in an open field.
You begin by making an air tank, out of 2" pvc about 18" long. (You may want to put a U bend in it to make it bigger.)
Put a tire valve in it, and cut a hole in it big enough to fit a BIG ball valve into.
Next put that BIG ball valve (1 1/2" or bigger) into the hole, then secure it and seal it.
After that, cram the ball valve with vinyl tubing, and secure, & seal it.
next, make a cluster of barrels about 2' long out of PETG, brass, CPVC, sprinkler hose, whatever, and attach the vinyl tubes to them, and seal.
finally, put the cluster of barrels on a tripod, or something, and epoxy on some handles.
To use, you pressurise the air tank, then cram as many micro darts down the barrels as you can. (preferably before the war.) Then, you use it by setting it up on the edge of the battlefield, at a high angle. to fire, open the ball valve, and darts come faining down on everyone. you then put it down, and run. Then at the end of the war, pick it up, and reload it.
It would be good as a use for any stefans you might have messed up on, exhibitions, or just gaining yourself some respect. (or pissed neighbors)
Questions, comments?
You begin by making an air tank, out of 2" pvc about 18" long. (You may want to put a U bend in it to make it bigger.)
Put a tire valve in it, and cut a hole in it big enough to fit a BIG ball valve into.
Next put that BIG ball valve (1 1/2" or bigger) into the hole, then secure it and seal it.
After that, cram the ball valve with vinyl tubing, and secure, & seal it.
next, make a cluster of barrels about 2' long out of PETG, brass, CPVC, sprinkler hose, whatever, and attach the vinyl tubes to them, and seal.
finally, put the cluster of barrels on a tripod, or something, and epoxy on some handles.
To use, you pressurise the air tank, then cram as many micro darts down the barrels as you can. (preferably before the war.) Then, you use it by setting it up on the edge of the battlefield, at a high angle. to fire, open the ball valve, and darts come faining down on everyone. you then put it down, and run. Then at the end of the war, pick it up, and reload it.
It would be good as a use for any stefans you might have messed up on, exhibitions, or just gaining yourself some respect. (or pissed neighbors)
Questions, comments?
#25238 New (?) Barrel Material
Posted by
on 30 April 2004 - 05:57 PM
in
Modifications
Alright, I was prowling my local lowes, and I came across a kind of sprinkler hose, it's the same diameter, wall thickness and weight as CPVC, but it's black, and comes if 2' sections. It's a tiny bit cheaper than CPVC ($0.50 for a 2' section) Has anyone else tried it?
#25251 New (?) Barrel Material
Posted by
on 30 April 2004 - 08:20 PM
in
Modifications
no, it isn't sch80 pvc, that was on another aisle, and the PEX tubing was way down the aisle, it was with the sprinklers, and wasn't very flexible (like I've found PEX tubing to be) I'll check lowes' website to see what it is.
#25254 Ultimate Artillery
Posted by
on 30 April 2004 - 08:38 PM
in
Homemades
well, I thought that with the huge volume of air this cannon would provide would eliminate that problem. (at least of the darts floping out) As to the RoF (1 per war unless there's a really long stand-off) well, It aught'a hit most everyone there, and I was thinking of this as a weapon that someone fully equipped would start the war with, fire it quickly, and then nerf as usual. (with him and everyone behind him at an advantage.) Impreactical, Yes, neat, Yes, worthless, maybey.
Edit: I calculated that it would fire 82 2" stefans with a meagar seven barrels! imagine if you put in more barrels.
Edit: I calculated that it would fire 82 2" stefans with a meagar seven barrels! imagine if you put in more barrels.
#25256 Ultimate Artillery
Posted by
on 30 April 2004 - 09:00 PM
in
Homemades
Don't you think that would be kinda hard?
#25257 Fire Extinquisher Homemade
Posted by
on 30 April 2004 - 09:07 PM
in
Homemades
I found in my kitchen a little 1-liter fire extinguisher, and I thought about puting like a 10' piece of PVC on it and seeing how far it shot. It had a little nozzle, that would fit in the PVC (I think), but I'd have to let the barrel warm up for a while after each shot. (you know the Co2 in fire extinguishers comes out cold right?)
#25260 Ultimate Artillery
Posted by
on 30 April 2004 - 09:21 PM
in
Homemades
well, then it wouldn't fire out all the darts, sure they would go an equal distance, but the moment all the darts moved foreward enough to close the valve, no more air, and no more darts coming out.
#25295 New (?) Barrel Material
Posted by
on 01 May 2004 - 09:06 AM
in
Modifications
But I thought sch80 PVC was grey, not black, and came only in the same sizes as sch40 PVC.
#25296 Ultimate Artillery
Posted by
on 01 May 2004 - 09:23 AM
in
Homemades
Yeah, 1 per war, (or heat if you prefer) is awfully slow. Also, that foam sheet idea is called wadding, in the muzzle-loading gun world. I think I'll try to make this concept a reality in a couple of weeks. I'm planning to mount the barrel cluster on the tripod from a fold-up music stand, the place where you put the music can be removed and you're left with a little mounting point that looks like this:
\
|
\
|
#25297 New Non-nerf Guns
Posted by
on 01 May 2004 - 09:36 AM
in
General Nerf
I have one of those, I got it at my local KB toys. I'm assuming that when you take it apart, it has a dark grey box-like thing as a valve assembly, the air pump comes off as an intependant (and unopenable) unit, and its barrel is white. I replaced the barrel with CPVC, no ranges as of yet, I put on a SM1500 pump handle and couldn't seal it.
oh and, if I'm right, it's called the "Air Bazooka" not "Airzooka"
Edit: I fixed it, so here's the pic, is that what you're talking about volt?
Da gun
oh and, if I'm right, it's called the "Air Bazooka" not "Airzooka"
Edit: I fixed it, so here's the pic, is that what you're talking about volt?
Da gun
#25305 Air Bazooka Mod
Posted by
on 01 May 2004 - 12:35 PM
in
Modifications
I had this gun kicking around for a while, and I decided to try and mod it. I poened it up and found that the pump system doesn't come apart, I felt :evil: However I did do a barrel swap.
You begin by taking the gun apart. Now, the trigger mechanism is simple, but still, DON'T FORGET HOW IT WENT TOGETHER since it will come apart in a bunch of pieces.
Next, pull the barrel off the dark grey box-like trigger mechanismand replace it with a 1' piece of 1/2" CPVC (it must be CPVC or else you won't get an airtight seal)
next, there is kind of a wall where the stock barrel went through, the hole is too big for the cpvc, so wrap the part of the CPVC that passes through that hole in masking, duck, electrical, scotch, whatever tape so it's a tight fit.
now, with thirty pumps, and the dart rammed down the barrel, it should get good ranges, mine got 100-120' flat.
And this is what it'll look like when you're done:
You begin by taking the gun apart. Now, the trigger mechanism is simple, but still, DON'T FORGET HOW IT WENT TOGETHER since it will come apart in a bunch of pieces.
Next, pull the barrel off the dark grey box-like trigger mechanismand replace it with a 1' piece of 1/2" CPVC (it must be CPVC or else you won't get an airtight seal)
next, there is kind of a wall where the stock barrel went through, the hole is too big for the cpvc, so wrap the part of the CPVC that passes through that hole in masking, duck, electrical, scotch, whatever tape so it's a tight fit.
now, with thirty pumps, and the dart rammed down the barrel, it should get good ranges, mine got 100-120' flat.
And this is what it'll look like when you're done:
#25309 Air Bazooka Mod
Posted by
on 01 May 2004 - 01:25 PM
in
Modifications
I don't know, the pump assembly doesn't come apart, so I can't get to the pump to find out, although, I think there is, since after about 30 pumps, it makes that noise.
#25314 New (?) Barrel Material
Posted by
on 01 May 2004 - 04:23 PM
in
Modifications
well, the stuff I saw was the same OD & ID as CPVC
#25316 Ultimate Artillery
Posted by
on 01 May 2004 - 04:39 PM
in
Homemades
Well, first, I will post a common saying; It's not fair... IT'S WAR!!!!!
Alright, with my design, the vinyl tubing would allow the airtank to be carried in one hand, and the barrel assembly in the other, to make it less cumversome. also, about you people who are afraid of getting hit by this directly, it's at a friggin' 70 degree angle, you'd have to get within 5 feet for you to get hit directly unless the person firing was being an asshole. Also, about the interchangable barrels, even with those, it would still be impractical for more than one use per war/heat because most bike pump guns take too long to pump, and more specifically, a gun like this with an air tank that could hold upwards of a gallon of pressurised air. (which is what I'm planning on)
Alright, with my design, the vinyl tubing would allow the airtank to be carried in one hand, and the barrel assembly in the other, to make it less cumversome. also, about you people who are afraid of getting hit by this directly, it's at a friggin' 70 degree angle, you'd have to get within 5 feet for you to get hit directly unless the person firing was being an asshole. Also, about the interchangable barrels, even with those, it would still be impractical for more than one use per war/heat because most bike pump guns take too long to pump, and more specifically, a gun like this with an air tank that could hold upwards of a gallon of pressurised air. (which is what I'm planning on)
#25317 New Non-nerf Guns
Posted by
on 01 May 2004 - 04:43 PM
in
General Nerf
you know what, My dad bought one of those too!Originally called the Airzooka, but there is that other thing that shoots a ball of air, featured on www.airzooka.net with the same name.
#25371 Air Bazooka Mod
Posted by
on 02 May 2004 - 02:03 PM
in
Modifications
I know I'm double posting, but, it's important to the discussion. I made the barrel about seven inches longer, and it gets twenty more feet. also, with a good dart it is dead-on accurate at 70 feet. and last, this gun shoots a HUGE volume of air at mediocre pressures, I believe the pump system would be useful for homemades, or as a repacement pump for broken guns, especially if someone could find out how to open the pump housing.
#25393 Nerf Grenades
Posted by
on 02 May 2004 - 07:08 PM
in
Homemades
okey, vortexmaster's "revelation" just confused the hell out of me, but here's an idea that might bork:
1)replace the cardboard with a paper bag
2)...um...
that's all I could think of.
1)replace the cardboard with a paper bag
2)...um...
that's all I could think of.
#25461 Lefty? Righty? Switch?
Posted by
on 03 May 2004 - 05:36 PM
in
General Nerf
I voted righty, even though I pump best with my right hand, I have little coordination in my left, I just switch hands when I'm ready to shoot.
#25485 Air Bazooka Mod
Posted by
on 03 May 2004 - 08:57 PM
in
Modifications
well, no stores around where I live sell brass, and my mom doesn't trust buying things over the internet, so I can't buy PETG either, what does that stand for anyway?
#25589 Practical Barrel Legnths For Tight Barrels
Posted by
on 05 May 2004 - 09:40 PM
in
Modifications
Okey, first, I'll say one thing before I start, I don't have access to brass, or PETG.
That said, I normally work with CPVC, which is a tight fit for almost all darts. Now, I have a six-inch barrel AT2K that gets over one hundred feet flat, and that's nice, but it doesn't get nearly that range unless I use a stick or something to ram the dart all the way down the barrel, so, basically, I needed a better barrel length. I used 2" of cpvc on my nite finder, and this is much more practical, better range compared to my four inch barrel, as long as the dart is just pushed down the barrel until the tip is flush with the end of the barrel. If anyone has any input, or advice for loading longer barrels, that's what this thread is for.
That said, I normally work with CPVC, which is a tight fit for almost all darts. Now, I have a six-inch barrel AT2K that gets over one hundred feet flat, and that's nice, but it doesn't get nearly that range unless I use a stick or something to ram the dart all the way down the barrel, so, basically, I needed a better barrel length. I used 2" of cpvc on my nite finder, and this is much more practical, better range compared to my four inch barrel, as long as the dart is just pushed down the barrel until the tip is flush with the end of the barrel. If anyone has any input, or advice for loading longer barrels, that's what this thread is for.
#25631 Practical Barrel Legnths For Tight Barrels
Posted by
on 06 May 2004 - 04:44 PM
in
Modifications
the link to brass would be nice, thanks
the gun, nite finder, and I cut off the light part on it, my other one still has it, if it's nesesarry.
I also did a four barrel mod on my at2K, and I'm planning to CPVC my SM3K blue, a breech loading system for the SM would be a godsend. (I'm keeping all eight barrels)
the gun, nite finder, and I cut off the light part on it, my other one still has it, if it's nesesarry.
I also did a four barrel mod on my at2K, and I'm planning to CPVC my SM3K blue, a breech loading system for the SM would be a godsend. (I'm keeping all eight barrels)
#25633 Stubby
Posted by
on 06 May 2004 - 04:48 PM
in
Modifications
I did that mod too, I believe someone called it 'the PPK mod' or something. (so I supose you could say you PPKed it, or not.)
#25707 Help With Nite Finder
Posted by
on 08 May 2004 - 07:03 PM
in
Modifications
try re-lubeing the plunger tube, and also, thry taking apart the gun, and reinserting the plunger to make sure the gasget isn't coming off. (if it is, use a needle to push it back into place as you push the plunger in, that ought to do it steveo.
#25711 New (?) Barrel Material
Posted by
on 08 May 2004 - 07:37 PM
in
Modifications
Okey I've solved the mystery;
(and I hate ending up double posting whenever something relevent happends with one of my topics.)
I figured out what it is, it's rainbird E-Z pipe, it's a little stiffer than pex tubing and it is not threaded. Its really light, and easy to work with.
(and I hate ending up double posting whenever something relevent happends with one of my topics.)
I figured out what it is, it's rainbird E-Z pipe, it's a little stiffer than pex tubing and it is not threaded. Its really light, and easy to work with.
#25719 New (?) Barrel Material
Posted by
on 09 May 2004 - 09:12 AM
in
Modifications
it depends, I mean it's easy to deform the material, so well, it depends, but, I've found it is about as tight as cpvc.
