There have been a lot of shingles redesigns recently, and seemingly plenty of interest, so it'll be interesting to see if these things -in one form or another- become a new part of the war-standard setup. I'd say hoppers, for example, at this point are pretty war-standard, although people still use RSCBs and turrets.

Whats the difference between the ones with fins on the back, and the ones with fins on the back & front?

News flash.. that thread is hundreds of pages of garbage.

Except when it points out $25 shipped RFSG's. Then, it's suddenly awesome.

Steam user: hoongfu

I play diablo 3, TF2, cs 1.6

Steam user: ObiWonTwo

I play TF2 as well, mostly just TF2 these days lol. I mostly like CTF on Turbine, my favorite, and 2fort, but I also enjoy various cart-push.

At least he has the common sense to ask if it's dangerous or not.

This is true. In any case, I'd bet that as long as it works, he can get a good $100ish for it on eBay.

They will be almost always banned, except if you have it shotgunned. This is typical.

Also, based on eBay, that thing could be worth some nice money. Like, enough to get a nice crossbow with homemade internals kind of money.

http://www.ebay.com/...0#ht_500wt_1103

I wish I could be there, to shoot TED if for no other reason. Alas, 'tis not to be. I wish you all happy nerfing though, and MAKE SURE YOU TAKE PICTURES. I love war pics.

Thanks for keeping us updated, we appreciate it.

Or, you could pee on us all, to establish us as your territory

Or change all of our signatures to "Beaver is hereby tea-bagging this member". I get a kick out of it when stuff like that occasionally happens, it should be a routine part of becoming an Admin/Mod I say.

Congratz guys, and I agree, ryan being a contributor was way overdue. I wonder why poor Kane didn't get contributor status too though, seems like he and Ryan work together on a ton of stuff, and I think they've both made plenty of contributions to the community.

I'm still personally a fan of using an empty fire extinguisher as the air tank supply. Yes, heavy-ish, but you have it in a pack of some sort on your back, running through a tube to the blaster. It made to handle pressure, and I believe many/most already have threads that can be worked with, and used for fittings.

Just buy an empty one online from someone who just wanted to buy one to spray around with, maybe not one that's like 10 years old though.

Thread related



So, how long until the management closes this thread? Maybe it'll stay open because it's TED....

I ONLY use this stuff:



Of course, you can use a different brand, but you must make sure that it is silicone grease. Anything else can be potentially bad for the plastic and rubber parts (most notably petroleum-based lubricants) that make up your blaster. Try to wash the lithium grease out, replace the rubber seal, and try again with the proper lubricant.

I'll second this. I had it suggested to me by Beaver (of the awesome rainbow catch design). It works marvelously.

Buffdaddy-I apologize if this question is pointless, but should I put the dart at the base of the CPVC by the tank, or at the very end? In other words, should I have the dart travel through the whole barrel before releasing into the air?

At the very base. ALWAYS. It allows the air to accelerate the dart, otherwise a long barrel is just deadspace (room to expand and depressurize). This is the same basic idea for literally ALL barrels. The more air volume you have, the longer the barrel you want.

Or we can just call them Darts-That-No-One-Is-Every-Going-To-Use.

Ever*

Oh, I dunno, if not for the drilling-a-hole-in-the-foam part, and assuming we could have the mix be soft enough that no felt is needed, I could see using them. What with the ease of dispensing with a plastic bag, and the possible low-cost bulk-purchase options of the filling (compared to ordering washers and felt), I could see using them. As with most anything, there is room for improvement.

I don't really expect to hear anyone refer to them on NH as CANS or HANS. Should anyone decide to start calling them 'bans' on this forum, I may have to give them a comprehensive lesson on the meaning of the word, just to remove any ambiguity.

Why would anyone call them BANS (NRev), CANS (NHQ), or PANS (MHA site)? They're obviously called VANS.

But really, they may as well be called ΣANS. Easiest just to call them Not-A-Slugs

Taken from Hasbro's facebook page, their 'official statement'.

"We appreciate the opportunity to provide the following statement concerning Hasbro’s investigation into “leaked” IP information regarding its NERF brand products. As with anything, there are two sides to every story. While we cannot comment on the details of any ongoing investigation, Hasbro takes all circumstances of its stolen and leaked IP very seriously and will continue to investigate sources of unauthorized information and products as it relates to its brands. We would like to clarify one of the inaccuracies that has been reported. While a local Hasbro Australia marketing team did reach out to the Urban Taggers website to engage in promotional activity for which it required its address, it was completely unrelated to the confidential global investigation being conducted on Hasbro’s behalf by independent investigators looking into sources of leaked IP information. Hasbro greatly values and appreciates its fan communities and is very proud of its strong relationships with many bloggers and sites that cover our brands and products."

My conclusions were that it was a sad coincidence that the independent investigation coincided with a seemingly genuine promotional offer.

Except, if the two were unrelated, then how did they get ahold of his name/address? Also, why did he never receive the pinpoint sights? I read it as: "we were going to send you the sights, but after we found out what you've been doing with unreleased stuff, we passed your info to our lawyers and decided we didn't feel like giving you the stuff, but we totally originally might have been planning to send you the sights at some point".

Between the accessibility of this breach (compared to getting brass), and the fact that I've been wearing out my couplers ripping the single'd barrel out every time to load a dart (when just testing stuff, I use a hopper at wars), I may actually finally have to make a breach. Most of this seems like stuff I could do in 10 minutes or so, with the exception of that little "lug" part. That seems a slight bit tricky. Anyway, any chance I could just use some 1/2" PVC for that part, rather than that grey stuff?

I'm just gonna be a spoilsport and say this now:

APRIL FOOLS, BITCHES.

Aye'yup.

Like Eik said, tilting the table will take off much more wood in much less time. Correct me if I'm wrong but, I assume you still finish it off by sanding down the edges right?

Yes, exactly.

Try going for flys, its quite gratifying to know you took one out.

I love shooting flys XD They, unlike most spiders, are complete and utter pests when in the house. With that said, if I ever see another wolf spider the size of a half dollar coin, I'm loading up my homemade blaster and using stefans.

The wars I host are also typically restricted to slugs, and don't involve a lot of getting shot in the face at close range. If someone came to an LGLF war wearing that, I might not tell them they have to take it off, but I'd definitely bust their balls about it all day.

Ahh, I see. At Cinci wars I've been to headshots are allowed, and I was shot in the face at decently close range with a slug, not fun, but not unbearable either. Ironically, it was outside of rounds as well. Unlike glasses, which I always feel mess with my eyes, I could see leaving something mesh like this on even when outside rounds.

Well, never actually used a nerf-brand blaster as a primary for wars. My modding started out with nerf (mavs, titan, hyperfires, fureyfires, a raider, a LS, etc), but once I was ready to start warring I got a PAS and coupler'd it, and that was my primary for all the wars I've been to where I actually participated (a whopping two, one basic Cinci war and then Revolution). I have since upgraded to an awesome self-built pullback rainbow, which i use with a hopper, and which I will use for all conceivable future wars until I come up with something even more awesome, maybe a Lazer Tag Master Blaster with rainbow internals and a Titan integration, or a Tornado Bow.

And Langley, does that crossbow of yours have homemade internals?

I try to discourage the use of any sort of masks at my own wars. In NJ, Airsoft wasn't even legal to sell until a couple of months ago, and paintball in a public park will definitely get you a visit from the police. With homemade and modified blasters looking less and less like toys, I don't want to give anyone any more excuse to harass us than they already have.

Does that include this?

I've used full-face protection like the one HasReadCOC mentioned. An issue I had was that the plastic fogged up quickly and was difficult to see out of. However, 0% chance of facerape and nasty headshots are very helpful.

I'll do you one better. No fog, able to be yelled through more easily (for team work), but just sadly not as awesome looking.

http://www.harborfre...ield-97010.html

Honestly, at under $10, and compatible with glasses, this should work fine for pretty much anyone just so long as the mesh cant be shot through.

How about this guys? Full face protection and full vision field.

http://www.harborfre...ield-46526.html

That sir, is false. Your best bet is just to go ahead and either replace it, or add another one to it. Besides, making the catch stronger can't hurt anything.

Hmmm.........

http://nerfhaven.com...=0

I used sunglasses that have a built in camera. Ryan McNumbers wore aviator's at Revolution. Anything will do, as long as it covers your eyes.

It also has to not break, so actual glass glasses are probably out just to be safe.

I personally have fired 1/4" dome darts from an oversized perfectly sealing rainbow at point blank (1ft away) at nerf brand safety glasses (the ones that always came with dart tag) and they held up fine. I personally prefer lab safety glasses though, as they do not tint my vision orange, and they provide a wider field of vision.

Also Britnerf, side note, I PMd you back on facebook about the polycarb cutting (it's Obi), just in case you hadn't been on facebook to see.

If I might put in a bit of thought in here: often, at specialized venues (particularly indoor ones), the venue will mandate stock darts, and either stock or very lightly modded blasters. Some people may like this, but I'd imagine there are a lot of people who'd like to use their pride-and-joy blasters, along with at least slugs. Additionally, as has been noted, there is a fee, while there is normally no such issue with using parks. Lazertag arenas are good for use in the winter and general cold months, but as of when we held Revolution, it was warm enough to nerf outside, so it should be fine when this war is/would be held.

One park that has been previously used for Cinci wars is Rapid run Park
Pros: big shelter with tables for nerf stuff and in-between round leisure and rest.

Another, in Northern Kentucky (about 15 minutes from me) is the Boone Woods Park
Pros: also has a shelter, but which is sadly smaller, may be better at getting some of the KY nerfers to join in (hint hint). Con: may be too far south for some of the mid-ohio nerfers, it's important to know how filled any one area is with nerfers when picking a location in order to get the best turnout.

And for Revolution we used Mt. Echo Park Pros: big field, and as I recall there is also a big shelter there, residual awesomeness from the Revolution war. Con (maybe): we might have to set up cover to hide behind like at revolution, although this could be a theoretical problem with either of the others.

Obviously, for any wars I'd be slanted towards Boone Woods, but I'd suggest you look through, get a feel for each place, and maybe even let people vote where they would most likely want to go (or even just simply what's close enough to them to get to).

In such a thread, you might want to bill it as a Northern-KY-Eastern-Indiana-Ohio war thread, so you get people from all around the area. Someone who lives 40 minutes away from the war in Indiana might just skip the thread if it reads "Ohio war".

Well, how about we get another Revolution up and running? It was in march last year, we can probably push the date to April just to make sure enough people can either get the day off or make plans to go to it. I would be more than willing to get it running.

It's only a revolution war if we fly Britnerf in lol, have fun setting that up.......

Yeah man me too I have got a few guys but we want like bigger wars... Let's make a deal, if I get five replies of Nerfers in Ohio, I will start a league of some sort. Also I heard you said laser kraze, I have been there before and the laser tag part was beast, would love to nerf there

Yeah, lazercraze wars have been done, but probably one of the bigger recent-ish things was the Ohio Revolution. Generally, to my knowledge, Ohio stuff is centered around Cincinnati, and so some of us from northern Kentucky, and I think some part of Indiana, also participate.

If you have facebook, you might request to join the Cincinnati Nerfers group on facebook http://www.facebook....ps/46481830045/

(I put this is the Homemades section since it's for use making homemade blasters)

So, nothing too fancy, it's a hand-traced picture of the Brass Eagle Tallon paintball gun handle that has been used on one of the original rainbows, and on one of my own personal ones. I was requested by a friend to trace it so that he could cut out a wooden version for a rainbow/SNAP/ect, over at our modestly sized, but quite happy facebook nerf group. Since then, it has been used / is being used by several other members. Since the reaction and use was so positive (relative to the number of people who post there and build homemades), I thought I'd just put it up for general use, in case anyone wants something other than the standard block-O-wood SNAP handle, or whatever. Assuming you print it out full-sheet on standard-sized printer paper (what it was traced on), you'll get it full 1:1 sized. Anyway, I hope people find this useful.




An example of the handle after being cut out and used on a Revshot, credit goes to the awesome homemades builder "Andtheherois", seriously, his work is awesome. (sorry if some of you cant see this one, as it's linked from facebook)



Edit: so it would seem the template I first put on Mediafire was the wrong extension. I have now put the picture into a .pages document on my Mac, selected the option to save it as a word document, then made sure everything was the correct size, including downloading it myself from mediafire to make sure it stays the same size. Everything seem to be working fine now, with the exception of the fact that while it displays at the correct size after download, it puts it partially out of the window for me so it looks like the bottom of the picture is clipped off. All I do to fix this is just click in the middle of the picture (not the borders) and drag upwards. Sadly I can't test print the .doc from a windows computer to make sure of how it comes out. In any case, unless you are trying to make an exact replica of the original handle, it doesn't make make a huge difference if the size is a bit off from the original, just use what every size is comfy. If you print it out and think you'd like it a bit bigger or smaller, just change the size of the pic from your computer in the document by dragging the sides of the picture (Windows computers can do that, right?)

Anyway, new revised mediafire template: http://www.mediafire...gy9n3krzyj8swbg

From the original +bow thread:

Meh, it should look more like a crossbow though. Theres I difference between having similar performance, and actually looking like it. I'm imagining Tracing the crossbow shell and doing it all polycarb. No nylon for the stock, polycarb side-plates. A full, exact, trace, but with maybe a well-done handle for comfort, possibly with a part-wood foregrip, and part-wood stock-plate.

What I love about his design is that it really *looks* like a longshot. I think we just need a specialized +bow to do the same for the Crossbow.

For every 200 FNG's, we get the next Captain Slug, or Ryan & Kane, or Boltsniper, and you seem to be one of those 1-in-200 FNG's sir. You know what? I think it's all worth it, all the other new guys with their thread necros and other trouble, when we get people like you.

All I can say is, keep up the good work, redesign, perfect, up the power, all that, and then open commissions. After that, design some other awesome thing and keep going.

Maybe you could do a Crossbow silhouetted blaster next?

TI've considered doing this, but the boxes I currently have a lot of are relatively small and stacking two on top of each other would offer the best cover which would probably not work very well if it was stacked outdoors like I was thinking about doing.

Duct tape. It's a beautiful thing.

1" plungertube, about 3" of draw, half a [k26], 3/8" nylon bar plunger rod, homemade priming finger grip, mainly for stock darts, shoots stock taggers ~60ft flat when I tape measured. The thing on the end is a cut up coupler, it helps keep stock darts from fish tailing due to the blaster's power relative to stock darts.

The owner is my 8 year old brother, who can barely prime it LOL. Powerful, but not so much that he cant use it in the house.

I have to agree with previous posters and say that you probably wouldn't have any problems with the crossbow unless you were mass producing them commercially. Additionally, you could easily change, and improve, certain aspects. Namely; make the handle bigger since people complain it's a bit to small, remove the top part that the arrow goes on completely and replace it with a sight of some sort or something, make the stock longer, thus giving room for longer draw comfortably on homemade internals, replace the part that the bow arms clip on in the front with something cleaner, and have it extend out an extra inch or so, allowing for a longer plunger tube comfortably, better trigger, and of course, have the inside of the shell be designed for monster springer internals from the start. Something like that altogether would easily fetch $150 considering what crossbows go for. Print like 50 of them all in one run. Plenty for the community, but no where NEAR enough for nerf to spare a glance, I mean, would they really bother about 50 blasters when they produce thousands and thousands?

I also agree that this would be great for making triggers, as well as super comfy handles for rainbows. Also, mass produced somewhat-cheeper SorrowX turrets anyone?

I've always though rapid printing would be a great resource for the community, the two things that have stopped it the past are cost and quality. Namely, that people are worried about the strength of parts, and that the machines and plastic have been relatively expensive. Now though there are more and more people with the machines, and the tech is getting better and stronger.

I'll be very interested to see advances in this field.

I looked at his website. Sadly it looks like its Printing bed is only 7x7. I await the day when we all can have access to wonderful machines like this, It would change our hobby forever. I mean c'mon being able to print %90+ of your blasters components in your house!

Somebody could make a killing selling 'Vintage' Nerf shells if they had the tooling.

Crossbow shells. I want. SO MUCH WANT.

We need to find someone with a big enough printer.

MavTitan, 1.5" PVC coupler'd

My work with metal began and ended with using my scroll saw to cut a super thin metal pizza sheet into a mask. The noise was terri-bad, it bent up my blade (which was admittedly probably the wrong blade), and it did not feed well at all. I'd like to see some info on using scroll saws to cut aluminum sheets like people do for LS sled reinforcements, as well as metal catches, triggers, side plates, and so forth.

Also, why did you post there Zorn? ......