Y-Brik's Content

#291551 R Series Blasters - Overview!

Posted by Y-Brik on 26 December 2010 - 10:49 AM in Homemades

Yea. The guy had no idea what i was talking about. i had to explain what cpvc was and he still didnt know what i was talking about. Then i looked up and down the plumbing and electrical aisles and couldn't find it.

1. find smarter employee. Ask if there's a plumbing specialist in-store
2. CPVC is used mostly in potable (drinking) water as a substitute to copper tubing- as such it's near the copper tubing (In my experience anyway).

While Im here, what springs are you using? I'd recommend [k26] (Plusbow spring) which you can order off McMaster or buy from Split's sales thread.

#291527 R Series Blasters - Overview!

Posted by Y-Brik on 25 December 2010 - 11:44 PM in Homemades

Really? It's pretty common in hardware stores- did you ask an employee to help when you were looking?

#298414 Cataclysm 2 - Chicagoland War

Posted by Y-Brik on 22 May 2011 - 05:44 PM in Nerf Wars

Hooray for the beginning of nerfing weather!
Pros:
+Everyone was awesome
+Meeting BrokenSVT and Kid Flash- both are cool dudes
+My RCP performed beautifully all day- now if only I could aim....
+Water and (almost) toads as alternative ammo
+2-minute 4B mod with a Leatherman
+Culvers- om nom nom
+Seeing some awesome blasters
+Getting some tacticool blasters
+Minimum rain- it turned into a nice day!
+Hanging out w/ Noodleownz on the trek south
+PINK FOAM

Cons:
-Double Headshot (what does it mean??)
-Ticks
-Skeeters
-Sunburn, humidity
-Getting shot in the forehead 4 times throughout the war
-tired
-very overgrown field- killed dart recovery
-Nobody had enough bullets!!
-High RoF means high reload times
-Iron Man Magstrike
-Getting pinned down by an AT multiple times

Fantastic war!

#297317 Cataclysm 2 - Chicagoland War

Posted by Y-Brik on 19 April 2011 - 04:15 PM in Nerf Wars

hellz yeah! Will do my best to be there; likely with friends.

#286535 4 Chan, Johnny

Posted by Y-Brik on 03 October 2010 - 10:34 PM in Nerf Wars

Effeminate war!

+Having 2 Stampedes on the field (And do well too! I was glad to be on their team).
+Ring-around-the-treesie (Ended with one of them Stampedes)
+Eliminator with Stampede shield- the greatest in the sub-optimal category
+ Meeting up with my buddies from Cataclysm
+Here's the deal- Wendys was great!
+Used the hell outta my +Bow
+Chronographs are not only neat- they're 133.7!!
+Got 2 legit wyes and clear PVC for less than I expected to pay
+Everyone being cool (Not just because of the weather) about the relocation
+BIGGEST WAR in the region! Woot!

-Relocation.
-Gun breakage. Thank God I brought my electric screwdriver
-Cold and windy! Grab the mobstacles!!
-Lost 80% of my darts
-In-game dart failure. Liquid nails does NOT work on stefans, you hear me Sluggy?
-Had to leave early

#283735 4 Chan, Johnny

Posted by Y-Brik on 22 August 2010 - 08:49 AM in Nerf Wars

Given no weird scheduling shit I'm so in, with 2+ friends.

#286397 4 Chan, Johnny

Posted by Y-Brik on 01 October 2010 - 11:20 PM in Nerf Wars

I'm still in, sans friends.
Oh, and if the U3 could bring 2 spare hunks of clear 1/2" PVC and some wyes for a certain yBrik, that'd be great.

#314417 Cataclysm 3 - Chicagoland War

Posted by Y-Brik on 15 April 2012 - 09:40 PM in Nerf Wars

Aww yeeah! I'm in!

#293083 Community Snap Thread

Posted by Y-Brik on 18 January 2011 - 08:11 PM in Homemades

Just make sure you mount the bushing well- either with screws or PVC cement. That said, SNAPS are built like tanks and either way works (Mine is stopped by the rear- with a rubber washer between endcap and priming handle)

#293154 Community Snap Thread

Posted by Y-Brik on 20 January 2011 - 05:44 PM in Homemades

The clothespin is deceptive- a well made Snap will not misfire. As far as I can tell, both catches are as strong as they would need to be. So, no real difference.

#293132 Community Snap Thread

Posted by Y-Brik on 19 January 2011 - 10:06 PM in Homemades

Use a 1.25" endcap, lop off the connecting part (you only need the back), drill a hole in the middle to accommodate the plunger rod/endcap, and sand the hell out of it until you have a nice smooth catchface. It's a superlative with the durability of a preeminent. I feel like I said this before....

EDIT: I misspoke, I meant catchRAMP. My Snap uses a PVC catchramp attached to a metal washer for the catchface. Basically take the Superlative and replace epoxy putty with PVC.

#292096 Community Snap Thread

Posted by Y-Brik on 02 January 2011 - 06:57 PM in Homemades

My first snap relied on hotglue. That didnt even last a whole war. My next attempt involved zipties, which I recommended for strength, and later I swapped them out for a screw and washer to hold the bracket on with.

#288354 Community Snap Thread

Posted by Y-Brik on 13 November 2010 - 02:44 PM in Homemades

EDIT- totally put this in the wrong place; sorry

#283752 Community Snap Thread

Posted by Y-Brik on 22 August 2010 - 03:03 PM in Homemades

While padding the plunger head isn't a bad idea, the worst failures I have ever had with the 3 snaps I made are failures in bonds, not in the PVC material. Also, the coupler/bushing setup found on most snaps seems far more resilient than the single reducing fitting on your (very interesting) harpoon gun.

#288075 Community Snap Thread

Posted by Y-Brik on 07 November 2010 - 09:53 AM in Homemades

Here's the simplest definition I can think of:
A SNAP does not use a flat, vertical catch plate, but rather a pin contacting the plunger (rod or head), mounted on a clothespin trigger.
-The exclusion of a flat vertical cath plate rules out both Rainbow and Plusbow.
-The statement 'A pin contacting the plunger' is accurate with the CPT2 because, well, it does. It just adds a cradle to improve the catch surface area.

#286182 Guide To Barrel Material

Posted by Y-Brik on 27 September 2010 - 10:59 PM in Modifications

Responding to question:
Home depot has CPVC. Ask someone or look harder. In my store it's stacked vertically next to the copper pipe. You need CPVC if you want to fire stefans; I don't think anyone has done a PVC singled LS. Oh, and judging by your post quality, the LS may not be the gun for you to mod. Have you even opened the thing? Is it your first mod? If the answers are what I think they are, forget it. Go get a 4B or a NF and learn before you try such a complex mod.

#295819 The Ohio Revolution

Posted by Y-Brik on 11 March 2011 - 05:45 PM in Nerf Wars

And that iota went away. I'm out, have fun guys.

#295096 The Ohio Revolution

Posted by Y-Brik on 26 February 2011 - 01:42 PM in Nerf Wars

I just noticed the Rev falls on the first day of Spring Break, so there's an iota of hope I can go to this thing, assuming I have a place to crash 'over there', possibly with a handful more of the Chicago crew.
Again, this is a possibility, not a guarantee.

#295035 Where To Buy Modding Materials

Posted by Y-Brik on 23 February 2011 - 10:53 PM in Modifications

Credit to this tip goes to Hipponater- thanks man!
I got my thinwall from Do It Best. They ship it free to your local store and it's $4 for 10'!

#295533 Dartsmithing Tips Archive

Posted by Y-Brik on 07 March 2011 - 09:09 PM in Darts and Barrels

I know my local Hobby Lobby sells craft foam in 2mm (standard) and 3mm(THICK) varieties (It's like a 12/18 sheet for $1) if you want more padding, though I feel the 2mm should suffice.
I love this idea, methinks we have a true evolution of the Slug (and homemade dart in general) here.

#288359 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Y-Brik on 13 November 2010 - 03:48 PM in Homemades

Little discovery- 45 degree PVC bell curves in the conduit section work great on choppers- it's made to funnel wires around a curve and works just as well with darts. I lopped about an inch off the male end (insert jokes here) of mine to keep a low profile, and used a little etape on clip and bell curve to keep everything snug.
Now, to an actual homemade- I got an ObsoleteBow awhile ago and have been making small adjustments to it.

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The PVC foregrip is based around a 3/4"x1/2" PVC tee. Also, if you're building one of these (Why? There are RainBows now!), use 5/8" long screws on all nylon rod connections, and use lockwashers.
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There's a new (to my knowledge) spring spacer- my long-winded description is on my flickr post. Spring now hits full compression, and the thing shoots hard.

#296723 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Y-Brik on 27 March 2011 - 09:25 PM in Homemades

Made one of these things. I like Hippo's name of RingCatch Pump (RCP)
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Uses [k26] over a nylon plunger rod, a skirt seal, Sch80 for the catch ring, and Ace#2 for the primary catch spring. It's held together with #6 wood screws, countersunk of course.
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(Holes are drilled for a string stop; I have to get around to installing it)
I got my magic thinwall PVC at Do It Best- 10' for $4, you can order online and have it shipped to your local store free!

#280069 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Y-Brik on 12 July 2010 - 05:12 PM in Homemades

First post!
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My adapted SNAP. Features 1.5" PVC plunger tube, new (To my knowledge) handle mount, and easy field stripping thanks to the way the stock is screwed onto the endcap. The gun field strips with 2 screws- there's only 4 total (not counting the stock).
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The handle slots onto ridges cut into the PVC (This is one of the reasons it uses 1.5" PVC; 1.25" PVC is just too small. The slots are measured out to accept a LSFG handle, but mine broke (Damn you China!) and the PVC one serves me well.

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8 round RSCB attachment with tacticool flashlight E-taped on. Stupid Windows photo gallery made the stock look crooked; it's not.
Ranges are ROUGHLY measured at 100'+

#328489 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Y-Brik on 02 April 2013 - 08:40 AM in Homemades

Gave my old and busted +Bow some love over Spring Break
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That's 2"x1/8" aluminum strapping from Depot, cost me $8. And will never break.
Also, wood stock!
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#288351 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by Y-Brik on 13 November 2010 - 02:19 PM in Modifications

@Valor- why would you paint a creamsicle?
@Zack the Mack- Now I suddenly want a barrel break...
My new indoor primary:
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BBB spring addition, brass stub in barrel, locks and other junk removed, krylon fusion PJ with rather sloppily applied detailing. Paired with an AT drum, prpbably the only reason to get an AT imo.
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