tcorr911:
If you look on the howstuffworks page mentioned in the earliest couple posts, you will see that there is either a bump or a ledge on the carrier that stops the shell from sliding all the way back. That stop is placed carefully in a spot where only one whole shell can be on the carrier at a time. I think this could be the solution, becuase I myself was considering it for simplicity.
P.S.: For all of you out there who are either working on or want to work on a Nerf shotty, P.M. me. If there are enough of us, we might be able to walk each other through the design and construction phases.
SHADOW HUNTER ALPHA's Content
There have been 1000 items by SHADOW HUNTER ALPHA (Search limited from 13-January 97)
#93838 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 07 November 2006 - 12:01 PM
in
Homemades
#93599 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 03 November 2006 - 05:36 PM
in
Homemades
I think I see what you're talking about, Flaming Hilt. This may not be exactly what you saw, but there is a downward bulge on the slide, which is colored light blue. I think that this could be the answer, since it is enough to just block the top of the shell from exiting the magazine when the pump is in its forward position.
Ronster:
Of course I'll give you credit. Everyone who helps me here will be given due credit. I don't believe in taking help without an honest announcement about it, so if there's a favor I might be able to do in return (I.e., some high-quality stefans once this gun is done), just name it.
Ronster:
Of course I'll give you credit. Everyone who helps me here will be given due credit. I don't believe in taking help without an honest announcement about it, so if there's a favor I might be able to do in return (I.e., some high-quality stefans once this gun is done), just name it.
#93548 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 02 November 2006 - 06:44 PM
in
Homemades
Flaming Hilt:
Maybe this would be easier if you drew a diagram that shows the pump, peg, etc. in relation to the parts it affects and the parts around it. (Like I did for the carrier.) I understand that the pump pushes the breech door shut, but where is this all in relation to the surrounding parts?
Ronster:
How the hell am I going to repay you for your help and opinions on this topic? First, you explain the carrier system, and now you're building a model? Where do you get this kind of free time?
Maybe this would be easier if you drew a diagram that shows the pump, peg, etc. in relation to the parts it affects and the parts around it. (Like I did for the carrier.) I understand that the pump pushes the breech door shut, but where is this all in relation to the surrounding parts?
Ronster:
How the hell am I going to repay you for your help and opinions on this topic? First, you explain the carrier system, and now you're building a model? Where do you get this kind of free time?
#93470 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 01 November 2006 - 06:00 PM
in
Homemades
friendly nerfer:
I've never seen Star Wars, so I can safely say it was an idea that I worked on as I went along.
Ronster:
Those Lego gears actually might work. I have to give some thought to finding the right type, but it looks like something in that picture will work. I'm not discounting Meaker VI's suggestion, but I just think it would be easier to have a system that I've seen be proven reliable.
Meaker VI:
I acually need all the help I can get figuring out how to make a removeable receiver, so if you had any ideas, post them.
Flaming Hilt:
You may need to explain your drawing a bit. I see that the pump pushes a peg of some kind back, but that's it.
I've never seen Star Wars, so I can safely say it was an idea that I worked on as I went along.
Ronster:
Those Lego gears actually might work. I have to give some thought to finding the right type, but it looks like something in that picture will work. I'm not discounting Meaker VI's suggestion, but I just think it would be easier to have a system that I've seen be proven reliable.
Meaker VI:
I acually need all the help I can get figuring out how to make a removeable receiver, so if you had any ideas, post them.
Flaming Hilt:
You may need to explain your drawing a bit. I see that the pump pushes a peg of some kind back, but that's it.
#93915 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 08 November 2006 - 05:51 PM
in
Homemades
tcorr911:
Actually, the bolt's side keeps the carrier dog depressed while the bolt is sliding forward and back. The bolt's contact with the carrier dog is stretched out in duration so that by the time the carrier dog is released and the carrier falls, the front of the shell has already been pushed forward and the rear of the shell is supported by the front of the bolt. I haven't got the exact specs down, but if Ronster can complete a working model (no pressure, Ronster), then it will be much easier to explain. The howstuffworks page isn't too good for the animation of the unit, so you don't get the exact idea enough to see what happened in between the steps. It kind of took me a while to get that one, too.
Actually, the bolt's side keeps the carrier dog depressed while the bolt is sliding forward and back. The bolt's contact with the carrier dog is stretched out in duration so that by the time the carrier dog is released and the carrier falls, the front of the shell has already been pushed forward and the rear of the shell is supported by the front of the bolt. I haven't got the exact specs down, but if Ronster can complete a working model (no pressure, Ronster), then it will be much easier to explain. The howstuffworks page isn't too good for the animation of the unit, so you don't get the exact idea enough to see what happened in between the steps. It kind of took me a while to get that one, too.
#93991 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 09 November 2006 - 05:50 PM
in
Homemades
I'm still working on the mag tube spring. The problem is going to be finding one that's between strong and weak, and between long and short. If it is too long, then the spring might stick out into the carrier and get all screwed up when the carrier rises, and it won't be small enough when compressed all the way. Short springs won;t be able to push all the cartridges out. A strong spring can inhibit feeding due to tension, but a weak one won't have the force to empty a full magazine. I can probably find some springs at Home Depot or Lowes, but I'm not sure. If anyone sees any, tell me where they where they were.
#121042 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 24 August 2007 - 08:53 PM
in
Homemades
I think the ranges will be close to what the SCAR can achieve, but I can't say for sure because I didn't use an AR-15 spring. As for completion, that should be by the end of the month if all goes well.
#121015 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 24 August 2007 - 05:30 PM
in
Homemades
Just to prove that I'm not the lazy bastard Piney thinks I am, I have an update on the project:
I had most of the gun completed, but I will redo the lower receiver to get rid of a couple of the sloppier cuts and holes. The trigger mech also has to be redesigned, because it wasn't engaging the catch most of the time, and proved unreliable. Other than that, everything seemed fine. I put it together (the components that I had) and went to test fire it using a nail for the catch, but the damn thing won't fire. I am inclined to believe that the seal between the bolt and bolt carrier needs to be improved, and I will work on that immediately, but if you see anything wrong in the pictures, don't hesitate to point it out.
The assembled portion (ignore the duct tape, I used it to hold the receiver cover on because I haven't put in the screws that keep it in place yet):
Ejection port blocked by bolt carrier in its resting position:
The magazine tube so far (I have to add some guide rails inside, but this is basically how it should look):
13x63mm shell with a compact CDTS in the background:
The disassembled portion that I have (the duct tape had been placed under the plunger head to protect the carpet from the silicone lubricant, it does not serve any other purpose. Also note that the spring perch has been left in the end of the PVC elbow that serves as part of the stock. I didn't take it out becase the elbow is a pain to remove.):
The bolt and bolt carrier (this component has been improved over boltsniper's bolt, as the bolt automatically returns to its forward position when nothing is engaging it. This prevents jams occurring as the result of the bolt rotating while disengaged from the chamber, and also guarantees that the bolt head will be oriented correctly to eject the shell every time):
The chamber with the lugs that engage the bolt head:
The bolt and chamber while they are locked (note the steel pins that keep all tabs in place even if the superglue and PVC cement weakens or fails):
That's about it. Questions, comments, critiques? This gun will be finished. I do not give up on projects like this.
I had most of the gun completed, but I will redo the lower receiver to get rid of a couple of the sloppier cuts and holes. The trigger mech also has to be redesigned, because it wasn't engaging the catch most of the time, and proved unreliable. Other than that, everything seemed fine. I put it together (the components that I had) and went to test fire it using a nail for the catch, but the damn thing won't fire. I am inclined to believe that the seal between the bolt and bolt carrier needs to be improved, and I will work on that immediately, but if you see anything wrong in the pictures, don't hesitate to point it out.
The assembled portion (ignore the duct tape, I used it to hold the receiver cover on because I haven't put in the screws that keep it in place yet):
Ejection port blocked by bolt carrier in its resting position:
The magazine tube so far (I have to add some guide rails inside, but this is basically how it should look):
13x63mm shell with a compact CDTS in the background:
The disassembled portion that I have (the duct tape had been placed under the plunger head to protect the carpet from the silicone lubricant, it does not serve any other purpose. Also note that the spring perch has been left in the end of the PVC elbow that serves as part of the stock. I didn't take it out becase the elbow is a pain to remove.):
The bolt and bolt carrier (this component has been improved over boltsniper's bolt, as the bolt automatically returns to its forward position when nothing is engaging it. This prevents jams occurring as the result of the bolt rotating while disengaged from the chamber, and also guarantees that the bolt head will be oriented correctly to eject the shell every time):
The chamber with the lugs that engage the bolt head:
The bolt and chamber while they are locked (note the steel pins that keep all tabs in place even if the superglue and PVC cement weakens or fails):
That's about it. Questions, comments, critiques? This gun will be finished. I do not give up on projects like this.
#94072 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 10 November 2006 - 03:59 PM
in
Homemades
I know shells may be tricky, but they're the only way to load the darts into my gun while ensuring that they don't get bent (which would play hell with my range and accuracy tests, not to mention mess up my feed mech and bolt design). As for the bolt, I was thinking along the lines of a cross between boltsniper's SCAR-N rotating bolt lockup and the bolt illustrated on the howstuffworks page. If the cam pin is moved by the operating rod, then the design is simpler than one might think. As for the mag spring, that's not my top priority. I want to make sure that a receiver and bolt can be built before I invest more time and money in a project like this.
#93424 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 31 October 2006 - 03:11 PM
in
Homemades
Ronster, you're a genius. I never really took the time to stop and think exactly how the carrier and carrier dog were connected, but this would make sense. There are a couple of problems, though.
1: If the carrier and carrier dog are connected like that, then how does the entire system move when the carrier is raised? I know the carrier dog moves, but it seems like it would have to move towards the carrier to raise it, based on your picture.
2: Where am I going to find a set of gears that small and how am I going to keep them in place should the gun be dropped?
3: How would I solve the problem of a jam (I.e. a locked gear) without dismantling the entire receiver?
Even though I don't know the answers to these questions, I will probably switch over to the carrier dog system instead of my depression tab. That way I have a proven system and don't have to worry about springs or very strenuous pressures on the sides of the bolt and carrier. I'm not discounting Flaming Hilt's arguments, but I might be able to pull this one off more easily than the depression tab. I guess this means I'll need to draw more pics, but still, thank God for Ronster.
1: If the carrier and carrier dog are connected like that, then how does the entire system move when the carrier is raised? I know the carrier dog moves, but it seems like it would have to move towards the carrier to raise it, based on your picture.
2: Where am I going to find a set of gears that small and how am I going to keep them in place should the gun be dropped?
3: How would I solve the problem of a jam (I.e. a locked gear) without dismantling the entire receiver?
Even though I don't know the answers to these questions, I will probably switch over to the carrier dog system instead of my depression tab. That way I have a proven system and don't have to worry about springs or very strenuous pressures on the sides of the bolt and carrier. I'm not discounting Flaming Hilt's arguments, but I might be able to pull this one off more easily than the depression tab. I guess this means I'll need to draw more pics, but still, thank God for Ronster.
#92596 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 22 October 2006 - 01:50 PM
in
Homemades
I'm trying to make a nerf shotgun, and I'm open to suggestions. Zero, if you're reading, I ask permission for your genius silencer design, and Boltsniper for his brilliant trigger system.
When I say "Shotgun," I'm referring to the way the weapon loads shells into a magazine below the barrel and how the pump cycles the weapon. The design is similar to Boltsniper's SCAR-N.
One more thing, I'm a noob. Deal with it.
Edit: There is an update on this project at the bottom of page 20.
When I say "Shotgun," I'm referring to the way the weapon loads shells into a magazine below the barrel and how the pump cycles the weapon. The design is similar to Boltsniper's SCAR-N.
One more thing, I'm a noob. Deal with it.
Edit: There is an update on this project at the bottom of page 20.
#92830 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 24 October 2006 - 02:25 PM
in
Homemades
Now that I've finally got back to my computer, I'll elaborate.
First, the term "shotgun" in my title only reffers to how the weapon loads. If I wanted to fire multiple shots, I would need a sabot or something, and that's really not a design I can get into right now. To load the shells, I was going to use a carrier in front of the magazine. For those of you who have shotguns, this idea will probably be familiar. If not, then visit this website (http://science.howst...om/shotgun5.htm). Towards the bottom of the page, there will be a box titled "pump-action shotguns." If you play all the way through that, and study both the tab on loading and the tab on firing and ejecting, then my concept will be broken down for you.
Next, my ammunition problems. Since I am planning to use shells for this weapon, I am trying to borrow the design that boltsniper used for his SCAR-N. Those shells and stefan darts should give me some good ammo. To keep the shell and dart from sliding out of the barrel, I will use a rotating-bolt lockup unit like the ones found in shotguns, assault rifles, and the SCAR-N. this will provide the basis for me to both hold and extract the shell. The weapon can be cycled by connecting an operating rod to the pump grip and the other end to the bolt. If you look at the bolt concept of the SCAR-N, you can see the nail sticking through the side. That should be what I connect the rod to.
I want to make a practical, compact, yet sturdy design so my gun doesn't fall apart if I slam-fire or am rough with the pump. The silencer is for quiet shots if the weapon has a decent-enough range for "sn1per" operations. I would be grateful if I even got 20' on the first attempt, seeing as this is my first homemade. I promise you guys out there that as soon as I get my scanner working, I'll put up one of my rough sketches on here for you to all see what I'm talking about. If you have any ideas or alterations after visiting the HowStuffWorks page, then I'm all for your suggestions. I'll need them to make sure my idea holds water before I go off and build a failure.
SHADOW HUNTER ALPHA
First, the term "shotgun" in my title only reffers to how the weapon loads. If I wanted to fire multiple shots, I would need a sabot or something, and that's really not a design I can get into right now. To load the shells, I was going to use a carrier in front of the magazine. For those of you who have shotguns, this idea will probably be familiar. If not, then visit this website (http://science.howst...om/shotgun5.htm). Towards the bottom of the page, there will be a box titled "pump-action shotguns." If you play all the way through that, and study both the tab on loading and the tab on firing and ejecting, then my concept will be broken down for you.
Next, my ammunition problems. Since I am planning to use shells for this weapon, I am trying to borrow the design that boltsniper used for his SCAR-N. Those shells and stefan darts should give me some good ammo. To keep the shell and dart from sliding out of the barrel, I will use a rotating-bolt lockup unit like the ones found in shotguns, assault rifles, and the SCAR-N. this will provide the basis for me to both hold and extract the shell. The weapon can be cycled by connecting an operating rod to the pump grip and the other end to the bolt. If you look at the bolt concept of the SCAR-N, you can see the nail sticking through the side. That should be what I connect the rod to.
I want to make a practical, compact, yet sturdy design so my gun doesn't fall apart if I slam-fire or am rough with the pump. The silencer is for quiet shots if the weapon has a decent-enough range for "sn1per" operations. I would be grateful if I even got 20' on the first attempt, seeing as this is my first homemade. I promise you guys out there that as soon as I get my scanner working, I'll put up one of my rough sketches on here for you to all see what I'm talking about. If you have any ideas or alterations after visiting the HowStuffWorks page, then I'm all for your suggestions. I'll need them to make sure my idea holds water before I go off and build a failure.
SHADOW HUNTER ALPHA
#92969 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 25 October 2006 - 03:49 PM
in
Homemades
I had the same question you did, Flaming Hilt. Instead of dismantling a real shotgun, or spending days over how the carrier and carrier dog were connected, I decided to re-design the piece. I have an idea that if I make the carrier out of a piece of aluminum or PVC, I can attach it at a single point in front of the trigger guard inside the gun. I would then attach a spring that would force the carrier up to meet the bolt, but have no carrier dog. Instead, there will be a separate piece above the carrier and attached to the bolt that looks like a mini-replica of the carrier. It will have a more powerful spring so that when the piece, which I will now call a depression tab, is depressed, the extra force of the spring will compress the carrier with it and force it into the resting position. When the pump moves the bolt back, the depression tab will fold upwards as it and the bolt travel backwards, allowing the carrier to flip upwards to load a shell. Another beefit of this design is the ability to load shells into the magazine without moving the pump, since the force with which I load the shell will counteract and negate the force of the depression tab spring. When the shell is all the way in the magazine, the depression tab spring will put the carrier back in resting position. I know this is hard to understand without a diagram, but I'll be able to hook up a scanner to my laptop within the next couple days and start posting some rough designs to work with. If you want, print them out and pencil in some modifications, and repost them up here for me to see. It'll be a lot easier to design this homemade if I have some veterans' advice.
P.S.: If you have no idea what the hell I'm talking about, go to howstuffworks.com and search for "how shotguns work". Look for the page about the loading system and use the interactive feature designed on Macromedia Flash Player to go to the slide on the carrier. You'll see the carrier dog, the piece that I intend to move.
P.S.: If you have no idea what the hell I'm talking about, go to howstuffworks.com and search for "how shotguns work". Look for the page about the loading system and use the interactive feature designed on Macromedia Flash Player to go to the slide on the carrier. You'll see the carrier dog, the piece that I intend to move.
#93399 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 30 October 2006 - 09:54 PM
in
Homemades
Flaming Hilt:
I'll definitely try to get some bigger pics up sometime in the next 2-3 days.
Now, about that depression tab issue. I thought about exactly the same problem you did, that the depression tab would come down too soon and the carrier would go down before the bolt could load the next shell. But then, I remembered that I'm using a rotating bolt. This means that if I shorten the tab just a little bit and place it at a point on the bolt where it will be timed to release only after the shell has been loaded, then the problem should be solved. Then again, this is all just speculation, since I haven't made a model or gotten into all of the mechanics just yet. If I post a way bigger detail view up here, then I might be able to talk to you guys about the really fine details of it all. I only wish that boltsniper could post something here, since he's actually built a rotating bolt before and he could give me some insight as to what I might need to do here.
I'll definitely try to get some bigger pics up sometime in the next 2-3 days.
Now, about that depression tab issue. I thought about exactly the same problem you did, that the depression tab would come down too soon and the carrier would go down before the bolt could load the next shell. But then, I remembered that I'm using a rotating bolt. This means that if I shorten the tab just a little bit and place it at a point on the bolt where it will be timed to release only after the shell has been loaded, then the problem should be solved. Then again, this is all just speculation, since I haven't made a model or gotten into all of the mechanics just yet. If I post a way bigger detail view up here, then I might be able to talk to you guys about the really fine details of it all. I only wish that boltsniper could post something here, since he's actually built a rotating bolt before and he could give me some insight as to what I might need to do here.
#93232 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 29 October 2006 - 09:14 AM
in
Homemades
Flaming Hilt:
It sounds like the shotgun you want to build will be a break-open breech type weapon. If that is indeed what you are doing, then you probably do not need or want a pump. Shotguns and other weapons that use pumps have a solid frame, where the cycling rod can be directly attached to both the pump and the bolt. Break-open shotguns are only connected at one point: the hinge. this means that there will be no way to effectively attach a pump while still having it [the pump] serve a useful purpose. Since my design has a rigid frame, a pump would be the most beneficial. For breech-loaders, you can either manually cock the weapon with a charging handle, or you can find some way to make the two hinged halves of the gun cock the weapon as they fold back together.
My own gun will probably have some tight fits with the carrier, but that should be the only real problem. As far as I know, I'm the first one here to ever use a carrier, so it looks like I might have to pioneer some fabrication techniques. However, when I get the gun finished, it should definitely be something to look forward to.
It sounds like the shotgun you want to build will be a break-open breech type weapon. If that is indeed what you are doing, then you probably do not need or want a pump. Shotguns and other weapons that use pumps have a solid frame, where the cycling rod can be directly attached to both the pump and the bolt. Break-open shotguns are only connected at one point: the hinge. this means that there will be no way to effectively attach a pump while still having it [the pump] serve a useful purpose. Since my design has a rigid frame, a pump would be the most beneficial. For breech-loaders, you can either manually cock the weapon with a charging handle, or you can find some way to make the two hinged halves of the gun cock the weapon as they fold back together.
My own gun will probably have some tight fits with the carrier, but that should be the only real problem. As far as I know, I'm the first one here to ever use a carrier, so it looks like I might have to pioneer some fabrication techniques. However, when I get the gun finished, it should definitely be something to look forward to.
#93246 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 29 October 2006 - 12:41 PM
in
Homemades
LastManAlive:
I looked over your post again and realized that I mixed up the word "travel" with "gravitate" because there is a typo there. However, there is still a problem with your design. The size of your dart and the size of the breech can be perfectly identical, but if the edge of another dart even gets caught between the rim of the breech and the loading system, you are going to have some major problems with the firing because now there is a bent-up dart that prevents the breech from closing and getting a good seal. That either means that you can't fire, or the pressure that is lost while firing is too little to propel the dart out of the barrel.
Also, I don't know whether you are going to make a true breech-loader or a magazine-fed shotgun, because they are definitely not the same things. PM me a picture and I might be able to understand and help you.
I looked over your post again and realized that I mixed up the word "travel" with "gravitate" because there is a typo there. However, there is still a problem with your design. The size of your dart and the size of the breech can be perfectly identical, but if the edge of another dart even gets caught between the rim of the breech and the loading system, you are going to have some major problems with the firing because now there is a bent-up dart that prevents the breech from closing and getting a good seal. That either means that you can't fire, or the pressure that is lost while firing is too little to propel the dart out of the barrel.
Also, I don't know whether you are going to make a true breech-loader or a magazine-fed shotgun, because they are definitely not the same things. PM me a picture and I might be able to understand and help you.
#93280 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 29 October 2006 - 04:36 PM
in
Homemades
I just got the top-notch kickass photoshop program loaded on my laptop, so here's a detailed sketch of the depression tab and carrier that I modified from one of my older sketches.
All of the major parts have been labeled so there's no confusion. The depression tab is indicated, and the vertical line connecting it to the bolt is the spring. In the carrier spring base, the U-shaped gray thing is the carrier spring, fully compressed. I'm sorry that there's little defenition between the carrier and the bottom of the magazine, but the carrier ends where the bolt and barrel meet. That should give you a general idea.
All of the major parts have been labeled so there's no confusion. The depression tab is indicated, and the vertical line connecting it to the bolt is the spring. In the carrier spring base, the U-shaped gray thing is the carrier spring, fully compressed. I'm sorry that there's little defenition between the carrier and the bottom of the magazine, but the carrier ends where the bolt and barrel meet. That should give you a general idea.
#93371 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 30 October 2006 - 05:12 PM
in
Homemades
I know how you feel, LastManAlive. I am lucky to get on my laptop at all for Monday - Thursday. I'm only a freshman in high school, but I still get assloads of homework from my teachers. I try to slip in a little something every day, though, so new posts here can probably be answered within 24 hours or less. That reminds me, keep posting guys. Your questions are making quite a difference in my design. Right now, I need the most help with my carrier-depression tab setup, since it will be the most problematic part group in my whole design.
#93252 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 29 October 2006 - 01:20 PM
in
Homemades
That diagram looks a lot like the one on HowStuffWorks.com. Anyway, that whole carrier dog / carrier sync bit is why I tossed the idea and designed a depression tab: it's much simpler to use my new design, and it's so much easier to fabricate that a PVC box of like 12 little gears that probably get messed up when you drop the gun. If you had any ideas while designing your shotty, Ronster, then post them. LastManAlive, Flaming Hilt, and I could use them. It appears I am not alone on this project.
#93368 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 30 October 2006 - 04:45 PM
in
Homemades
The depression tab and carrier are not connected, however, the spring power that forces the depression tab down is enough to force the carrier down as well. The depression tab is connected to the bolt instead, so when the bolt rotates and moves back, the depression tab will follow and let the carrier come up. The tab pivots at the inner angle opposite the depression tab spring, and contacts the carrier at the wedge-shaped piece above the carrier spring base. The carrier's pivot point is where the hypotenuse and the vertical side of the carrier's wedge meet.
To address the problem of shells slipping out under the carrier, I plan to make a small spring-loaded tab that will be able to fold in towards the magazine to load a shell, but not out when the shells try to fly out from under the carrier. Also, the space for the carrier to hold the shells will be limited to exactly 1 shell and no fractions above or under that. To stop the shells from loading themselves onto the carrier and preventing the carrier from being pushed up to load more shells into the magazine, I might have to design some type of catch on the mag. tube that you flip and it blocks off the shells. I will probably try something else, though, because that seems like it might take way too long to load this thing if I use that idea. (I'd have to flip the catch up and down for every shell I load.)
If you have any other problems or solutions, then tell me.
To address the problem of shells slipping out under the carrier, I plan to make a small spring-loaded tab that will be able to fold in towards the magazine to load a shell, but not out when the shells try to fly out from under the carrier. Also, the space for the carrier to hold the shells will be limited to exactly 1 shell and no fractions above or under that. To stop the shells from loading themselves onto the carrier and preventing the carrier from being pushed up to load more shells into the magazine, I might have to design some type of catch on the mag. tube that you flip and it blocks off the shells. I will probably try something else, though, because that seems like it might take way too long to load this thing if I use that idea. (I'd have to flip the catch up and down for every shell I load.)
If you have any other problems or solutions, then tell me.
#129831 New Nerf Blaster From Hasbro
Posted by
on 15 November 2007 - 10:32 PM
in
News
A double magazine is 12 shots. Trips would be in the 18+ range, but the spring problems and sheer size make it impractical. Do two double magazines spaced next to each other by PVC. (Not my idea, but I can't remember who thought of the PVC spacers.)
Also, I doubt that they are going to go back and add a second mag to the package. They might make the move to stock stores with the spares, but I wouldn't bet on it until we get some more info.
Also, I doubt that they are going to go back and add a second mag to the package. They might make the move to stock stores with the spares, but I wouldn't bet on it until we get some more info.
#128619 New Nerf Blaster From Hasbro
Posted by
on 04 November 2007 - 10:01 PM
in
News
It will. The back of the stock is shaped like a sideways U to accept the bottom of the magazine, but I don't know how firmly it will hold it. (The magazine is placed in horizontally, so that the bottom of the mag is parallel to the back of the stock).
#130604 New Nerf Blaster From Hasbro
Posted by
on 24 November 2007 - 11:46 PM
in
News
In reference to what?I wish I knew if the RC's slide is an inner one or outer one.
#132386 New Nerf Blaster From Hasbro
Posted by
on 14 December 2007 - 01:17 AM
in
News
CaptainCC is full of shit.I don't think anybody has mentioned this yet:
http://www.amazon.co...LS/ref=dp_olp_2
Guy claiming to already have one to sell. He clearly can't, any thoughts from people?
As a side note, this is the same guy selling a Crossbow for $200 (http://www.amazon.co...6128144&sr=1-17)
On a more cheery note, the release is tomorrow. And all Wal*Marts have the RC in stock? For $20? Kickass.
#128768 New Nerf Blaster From Hasbro
Posted by
on 06 November 2007 - 12:04 AM
in
News
I was just providing examples, but yes. However, I would leave one on the "laser." Even if it turns out to be a POS, which there is a 99.99% chance of happening, then it provides a readily available shells for an integration or replacement.
#128744 New Nerf Blaster From Hasbro
Posted by
on 05 November 2007 - 09:50 PM
in
News
Perhaps this should have been stated earlier. The rails on this gun are like on the normal LS. You would need to take an inverse rail, such as from the top of a Crossfire or from an LS scope, glue it to your gun/accessory, and then slide that onto the rail on the RC.
#129775 New Nerf Blaster From Hasbro
Posted by
on 15 November 2007 - 04:44 PM
in
News
No. I know that I have not seen the gun in person, but look where they put the lock for the spare mag. It's halfway between the grip and the shoulder rest. The double-mag would hit the grip before it fit in there..
#129841 New Nerf Blaster From Hasbro
Posted by
on 15 November 2007 - 11:00 PM
in
News
No. Too much work, too easy to screw up, not enough gain. Use the 6-round mags or the 12-rounders. I'm not going to stop you from trying, but it's a waste of time.
#105736 How Many Guns Do You Have In Your Arsenal?
Posted by
on 15 May 2007 - 05:46 PM
in
General Nerf
He ate a clan. You're like an appetizer.^I was born with these to put OMC in his place when I meet him.
The incomplete S.H.A.D.O.W. Arsenal:
1 BBB (Crayola'ed, soon to be replaced by brass)
3 Big Blasts (1 PVC'ed) (I'm coming for you, Groove...)
1 Speedloader (don't laugh)
2 Longshots
1 Air Tech 4000 (got it for less than $4)
2 Air Tech 3000s
2 Dart Tag Guns (both had ARs removed)
1 Hornet
1 Titan
1 Scout
1 Tech Target
2 Maxshots
1 Lanard Blast Bazooka
3 Crossfires (1 Dual-springed and AR removed, 1 stock, 1 AR removed)
1 Crossfinder (Crossfire + Nite Finder)
1 Nite Finder (AR removed, couplered, brass barrel for coupler)
2 Magstrikes (1 Angel-modded)
1 Big Salvo
1 Rapid Fire 20
1 First Shot
1 Lock 'n Load
2 Mavericks (1 Russian Roulette mod + AR removal)
1 Soon-to-have X-bow
1 Sonic Bazooka (don't know what to do with this...)
1 Double Shot
1 Mustang Six
36 guns, and still more to come...
#119545 How Many Guns Do You Have In Your Arsenal?
Posted by
on 14 August 2007 - 01:53 AM
in
General Nerf
Stop reviving threads. That's the second one in so many minutes.
#130411 Where To Buy Modding Materials
Posted by
on 23 November 2007 - 12:15 AM
in
Modifications
Ace Hardware and Home Depot both carry springs, albeit different lines. I personally prefer the HD ones. Their line is called "Handyman". For an NF, you'll want the 9713s. They come in a 2-pack for about $5-7, and their dimensions are almost identical to the NF spring's with the exception of a heavier gauge. They should be in the hardware aisle near the bolts, nuts, and hinges. I warn you though, they require heavy reinforcement to be used without destroying your gun quickly.
For a better-fitting spring, cut down an AR-15 buffer spring available here.
For a better-fitting spring, cut down an AR-15 buffer spring available here.
#127880 Where To Buy Modding Materials
Posted by
on 28 October 2007 - 08:36 PM
in
Modifications
The springs in HD will be near the hardware aisle (yes, there is a set of aisles in a hardware store designated "hardware"). You'll almost always find them near the bolts, screws, washers, steel rods, etc. Usually there are only two to five different types of compression springs, with the rest being extension springs.
#128690 Where To Buy Modding Materials
Posted by
on 05 November 2007 - 04:04 PM
in
Modifications
CPVC is good if you need a lot of barrel material and have no money (AKA it's cheap). However, it tends to be too tight on most darts and is difficult to load with certain foams. It's also easy to bend at long lengths, which is not ideal if you need a super-accurate high-powered gun like a Titan.
#120533 C.s.h.g.
Posted by
on 20 August 2007 - 02:53 PM
in
Homemades
That would require a belt-fed loading system, which would be difficult. Disintegrating-link belts, or even other forms of loaders will require a bolt to push darts out of the links and into the chamber, which may or may not require shells depending on your design, and will also have to expel the spent links of the belt. The belt itself also takes up space, and will still weigh something after firing, while the vacuum-loading system Slug designed for this project only needs caseless stefans, and will not use extra materials like belts.Why not try a design like the german MG42 ? Less difficult, but I'm guessing that the difficulty is the main motive.
#121120 C.s.h.g.
Posted by
on 25 August 2007 - 02:42 PM
in
Homemades
You were right. Go back and read the entire thread, and then you will find your answers. We don't like to support laziness here.I was skimming though this fairly quick. I probably missed what I'm gonna ask, then Ill get yelled at. lol
#96721 C.s.h.g.
Posted by
on 17 December 2006 - 08:13 PM
in
Homemades
I think we all want to see this completed, but there is this thing called "Real Life" I don't know if you have heard of it or not, but it tends to take up large amounts of time.
I guess the same can be said for my shotty. Piney's been on my ass for taking 3 months to plan it out, but this is different... I hope that CS makes some kind of progress with slowing down that arthritis-like diagnosis soon.
A note to elf_avec_gun in his next post:
No need to be an ass. I was only trying to express sympathy for his position. Nowhere in this post did I ask him to hurry up with this project, nor even try to work on it now.
#141915 Longshot Mod
Posted by
on 22 February 2008 - 01:43 AM
in
Modifications
You could try taking a flat-bladed screwdriver and hammering it through the three supports for the restrictor. If you do that, be wary of bending the bolt, though.
Also, please check the post dates. If the last reply was over a month or two ago, then try PMing the poster or searching instead. Just a heads-up before you get flamed.
Edit:
Omega: He's new. Noobs make mistakes. I told him what he did. I'm sure you've screwed up before, too.
Also, please check the post dates. If the last reply was over a month or two ago, then try PMing the poster or searching instead. Just a heads-up before you get flamed.
Edit:
Omega: He's new. Noobs make mistakes. I told him what he did. I'm sure you've screwed up before, too.
#107086 Longshot Mod
Posted by
on 22 May 2007 - 04:53 PM
in
Modifications
Chill. It was a dumb question, but calm down.What, you can't pick up a fucking spring? Are you a cripple?
If you are not careful, a few springs may pop out, like the one used to hold the scope, but nothing vital. Just remember where all the parts go, and it is a very easy mod.
P.S.: The ' key and the shift key are located next to your right pinky. Use them.
#114020 Longshot Mod
Posted by
on 01 July 2007 - 05:03 PM
in
Modifications
This thread was one month old, and you contributed nothing. Please refrain from posting things like this just to raise your post count, which is no mark of seniority. Also, please use the Spell Check when you post.I just bought one of these and I used this mod. It seems to work pretty good, I can't wait to see what it can do in a NerfWare
#101528 Guide To Barrel Material
Posted by
on 29 March 2007 - 04:46 PM
in
Modifications
I assume that we could substitute this aluminum in mods like FA24's Longshot. I don't see why the performance would be any different.I found some aluminum structural tubing in the mcmaster catalog that has the same ID as 9/16" brass, 1/2" CPVC, and PETG.
