Oh yeah, the scope is an air rifle scope, so it can handle the repeated shock of the piston/spring. It is pointless, however, to actually be used to aim outside of a distance of, oh say, 35ft.
GeneralPrimevil's Content
There have been 568 items by GeneralPrimevil (Search limited from 08-February 97)
#79160 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by
on 08 April 2006 - 03:35 PM
in
Modifications
My "something with the name other than 'Falcon 2' (Scoped)". That mount base (1/4" plywood) still has to be painted black.
Oh yeah, the scope is an air rifle scope, so it can handle the repeated shock of the piston/spring. It is pointless, however, to actually be used to aim outside of a distance of, oh say, 35ft.
Oh yeah, the scope is an air rifle scope, so it can handle the repeated shock of the piston/spring. It is pointless, however, to actually be used to aim outside of a distance of, oh say, 35ft.
#79231 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by
on 08 April 2006 - 11:06 PM
in
Modifications
Has anyone played Perfect Dark for N64? Remember the Falcon 2 (was there a "2")? It was available with nothing, a scope, or a silencer. That thing was awesome. Hence I called my gun the Falcon. However, since Falcon takes offense to this, well, I guess I'll go change it to something more, well, umm...is...umm...I'll just call it my NF. There, that makes all happy and well...
Well, it looks cool. Pistol wars in West Michigan are all about looks and style, not practicality. Mmmm...masterfully Matrix dodging...
The two barrels did not affect my range whatsoever. All that the original mod is that was done to this was a CPVC barrel with a coupler. So, theoretically, it is a 'breached' NF, like this. The ranges would be the same, only I can get more shots off in a minute than they could...
This thing shoots about 50ft PtG. The only reason why it is doing so is because the only thing I used to seal the coupler to the barrel with was friction, GM Assembly Adhesive, and duct tape. I have yet to improve the seal of the piston and the stock spring is still in there. I have no plans for replacing that spring; however, that piston may be getting e-taped pretty quick...
I need to put something in that big, gaping, shark's mouth of a hole in the front of the gun...
Edit: I decided to read this topic and, well, shoulda edited this sooner...
Well, it looks cool. Pistol wars in West Michigan are all about looks and style, not practicality. Mmmm...masterfully Matrix dodging...
The two barrels did not affect my range whatsoever. All that the original mod is that was done to this was a CPVC barrel with a coupler. So, theoretically, it is a 'breached' NF, like this. The ranges would be the same, only I can get more shots off in a minute than they could...
This thing shoots about 50ft PtG. The only reason why it is doing so is because the only thing I used to seal the coupler to the barrel with was friction, GM Assembly Adhesive, and duct tape. I have yet to improve the seal of the piston and the stock spring is still in there. I have no plans for replacing that spring; however, that piston may be getting e-taped pretty quick...
I need to put something in that big, gaping, shark's mouth of a hole in the front of the gun...
Edit: I decided to read this topic and, well, shoulda edited this sooner...
#76809 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by
on 18 March 2006 - 10:42 PM
in
Modifications
Ompa, you just gave me an idea. Since I need to design a case anyway, and I have a lot of sheet steel at my disposal, I'm going to throw my next homemade into the body of something from some game. I'll figure it out later. I'd have to redesign by using a different pilot valve and air source...where's GGDT and my leadholder?
#80852 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by
on 26 April 2006 - 10:38 PM
in
Modifications
It appears to be a game box (opened) entitled "Maximum Underworld" or something of the like...funny how that turned out.
Besides using paint/MS Photoeditor/Photoshop, how do other people color their plunger shafts and triggers on a NF? Usually the paint scrapes off on mine under normal use...
Edit: oh yeah, Renegade you have a way of taking pictures. The cluttered background actually does good for your Xbow...
Besides using paint/MS Photoeditor/Photoshop, how do other people color their plunger shafts and triggers on a NF? Usually the paint scrapes off on mine under normal use...
Edit: oh yeah, Renegade you have a way of taking pictures. The cluttered background actually does good for your Xbow...
#82153 Homemades Picture Thread
Posted by
on 21 May 2006 - 11:44 AM
in
Homemades
I painted the SOBR...
With the silencer and foregrip removed, it weighs 2lbs less and is 50% of the original length.
Pint sized:
I'll get the side panels back on it after I find a new way to secure them.
Schwarz ist wunderbar! Es ist sehr gut, nein?
Ich habe gesagt, scheissen fur der Kopf...
----=====----
Eventually I will be adding that extra tank. It won't have the gauges probably, but it will be regulated with an expansion chamber post-reg
.
I just have to figure out where to put the tank
.
With the silencer and foregrip removed, it weighs 2lbs less and is 50% of the original length.
Pint sized:
I'll get the side panels back on it after I find a new way to secure them.
Schwarz ist wunderbar! Es ist sehr gut, nein?
Ich habe gesagt, scheissen fur der Kopf...
----=====----
Eventually I will be adding that extra tank. It won't have the gauges probably, but it will be regulated with an expansion chamber post-reg
.I just have to figure out where to put the tank
.
#79161 Homemades Picture Thread
Posted by
on 08 April 2006 - 03:39 PM
in
Homemades
Mmm...pictures...
SOBR
Cal. - .42"
Preferred ammo - 3/0 micro Stefans, 1.75" long.
Propulsion method - Internals of an AT2k
Max. range - 70ft (flat)
Max. effective range - 45-55ft (flat)
Other notes - The silencer does indeed work. This thing is quiet, but there is still a "thwop" from the dart leaving the constricted barrel. I will probably be making it a bit better...somehow...
Yes, it will get painted.
--=-=-=--
BSC-LR (WIP)
Cal. - .60"
Preferred ammo - has yet to shoot much of anything really
Propulsion method - Pressurized air, released via coaxial piston valve
Max range - re-estimated 100+yds (flat) with right Stefan
Max. effective range - estimated 170 feet with right Stefan
Other notes - Have yet to get the piston to open. I have tried everything, Oh yeah, the thing is sealed tight as a space station now.
I'll paint it if I can fix it.
--=-=-=--
Homemade BnA
Cal. - any pipe which can be put into 3/4" NPT
Preferred ammo - anything re-damn-diculously light
Propulsion method - spring piston, rotating lock
Max. range - 35ft (flat)
Max. effective range - 25ft
Other notes - was made out of a grease gun, this thing needs more power. I will probably band it later; however, the rod locks by twisting it, so that is limited.
No comment.
--=-=-=--
Le Bloody Massive Cannon
Cal. - 1.5"/.602"
Preferred ammo - many micro Stefans/mega Stefans
Propulsion method - compressed air, 1.5" ball valve.
Max range - TBA/estimated200yds (@130psi) with proper Stefan (angled)
Max effective range - it's seven micro Stefans, duh/80ft (15psi) with current ammo (flat trajectory)
Other notes - 1.5" threaded valve allows many barrels. Deemed unsafe for use with pressures higher than 30psi. The 1.5" barrel can hold 7 micro Stefans for a mega-shotgun blast. Anyone coming to MidMI will experience that first hand, by the way...
Doubles as artillery. Now I need to make an air-burst round...
Big-ass blaster...
SOBR
Cal. - .42"
Preferred ammo - 3/0 micro Stefans, 1.75" long.
Propulsion method - Internals of an AT2k
Max. range - 70ft (flat)
Max. effective range - 45-55ft (flat)
Other notes - The silencer does indeed work. This thing is quiet, but there is still a "thwop" from the dart leaving the constricted barrel. I will probably be making it a bit better...somehow...
Yes, it will get painted.
--=-=-=--
BSC-LR (WIP)
Cal. - .60"
Preferred ammo - has yet to shoot much of anything really
Propulsion method - Pressurized air, released via coaxial piston valve
Max range - re-estimated 100+yds (flat) with right Stefan
Max. effective range - estimated 170 feet with right Stefan
Other notes - Have yet to get the piston to open. I have tried everything, Oh yeah, the thing is sealed tight as a space station now.
I'll paint it if I can fix it.
--=-=-=--
Homemade BnA
Cal. - any pipe which can be put into 3/4" NPT
Preferred ammo - anything re-damn-diculously light
Propulsion method - spring piston, rotating lock
Max. range - 35ft (flat)
Max. effective range - 25ft
Other notes - was made out of a grease gun, this thing needs more power. I will probably band it later; however, the rod locks by twisting it, so that is limited.
No comment.
--=-=-=--
Le Bloody Massive Cannon
Cal. - 1.5"/.602"
Preferred ammo - many micro Stefans/mega Stefans
Propulsion method - compressed air, 1.5" ball valve.
Max range - TBA/estimated200yds (@130psi) with proper Stefan (angled)
Max effective range - it's seven micro Stefans, duh/80ft (15psi) with current ammo (flat trajectory)
Other notes - 1.5" threaded valve allows many barrels. Deemed unsafe for use with pressures higher than 30psi. The 1.5" barrel can hold 7 micro Stefans for a mega-shotgun blast. Anyone coming to MidMI will experience that first hand, by the way...
Doubles as artillery. Now I need to make an air-burst round...
Big-ass blaster...
#78300 Where To Buy Modding Materials
Posted by
on 01 April 2006 - 01:24 PM
in
Modifications
PETG can be found at a pet store because it is sometimes used in the aeration systems in larger aquariums. Same thing with vinyl tubing. My local pet store sells vinyl tubing in sizes ranging from 1/8" I.D. all the way up to 1.5" I.D. That was the last time I went there, however...
I have yet to see PETG at any of my pet stores except a specialty exotic fish fish store which sold some in 1" I.D.
I have yet to see PETG at any of my pet stores except a specialty exotic fish fish store which sold some in 1" I.D.
#78356 Where To Buy Modding Materials
Posted by
on 01 April 2006 - 07:50 PM
in
Modifications
First off, FISH. AQUARIUMS. What else did I just say? Hmm...
Second, there are hundreds of retaielrs, which have already been posted. Have you tried McMaster-Carr?
Edit: NerfMonkey beat me by a seond or two...
Second, there are hundreds of retaielrs, which have already been posted. Have you tried McMaster-Carr?
Edit: NerfMonkey beat me by a seond or two...
#77005 Boltsniper Scar-n Rifle Bs-8
Posted by
on 20 March 2006 - 05:27 PM
in
Homemades
Here's a source of mags, for anyone who needs 'em.
Sounds like me, only I don't mod too well, I just provide all the info and shit like that. So far, my (now 4 strong) clan has no idea how to mod anything worth a damn, excluding one. He has a way with copper which makes anyone within range writhe...
I have the fun job of making everything from scratch. I find that a good thing. For the price of a NF, I can make something capable of beyond SuperSoaker with a higher RoF. I'll post it once it's done. Everything is based on something already proven. It was in design before the SCAR, but has since been altered to be an anti-SCAR: the complete opposite of the SCAR-N. Well, I'm supposed to be modifying a pump right now...
For a magwell, just make a design based off of the AR15 lower, or make a simpler version based off of a H&K design. A bit easier to mass produce, no? You can't use AR15 mags with it, but you can still make your own or use a HK33 mag, if you can find any for less than $30 a piece...
(Official Tinkerer and Tester)...(Official Modder and Fabricator)
Sounds like me, only I don't mod too well, I just provide all the info and shit like that. So far, my (now 4 strong) clan has no idea how to mod anything worth a damn, excluding one. He has a way with copper which makes anyone within range writhe...
I have the fun job of making everything from scratch. I find that a good thing. For the price of a NF, I can make something capable of beyond SuperSoaker with a higher RoF. I'll post it once it's done. Everything is based on something already proven. It was in design before the SCAR, but has since been altered to be an anti-SCAR: the complete opposite of the SCAR-N. Well, I'm supposed to be modifying a pump right now...
For a magwell, just make a design based off of the AR15 lower, or make a simpler version based off of a H&K design. A bit easier to mass produce, no? You can't use AR15 mags with it, but you can still make your own or use a HK33 mag, if you can find any for less than $30 a piece...
#76786 Boltsniper Scar-n Rifle Bs-8
Posted by
on 18 March 2006 - 05:31 PM
in
Homemades
^^^what he said^^^
Dayum...
.
Dayum...
.
#76834 Boltsniper Scar-n Rifle Bs-8
Posted by
on 19 March 2006 - 09:17 AM
in
Homemades
When I was thinking of this gun, I thought of a modified Remington 7600 called the 7615P. A pic can be found later in my post. I think that eventually you should move away from the pistol grip stocks and attempt to make a crescent stock. If I had self-contained internals to throw in one, I could pop out a wood stock in a little over two weeks, once I get my woodshop back in order after the move...
Picture of 7615: Edit: it's a short-action 7600 which is chambered for the .223Rem cartridge and has a modified receiver to accept AR15 mags.
Anyway, it would be kinda cool to base something off of that. It gives me ideas, ideas that I'd like to combine with other ideas...
Picture of 7615: Edit: it's a short-action 7600 which is chambered for the .223Rem cartridge and has a modified receiver to accept AR15 mags.
Anyway, it would be kinda cool to base something off of that. It gives me ideas, ideas that I'd like to combine with other ideas...
#77498 C.s.h.g.
Posted by
on 25 March 2006 - 09:23 AM
in
Homemades
More Russian stuff in Nerf...
Well, nice to know you dropped the syringes. You just replaced them with the same thing, only more powerful.
Ummm...just click the link...I drew that up awhile ago for a non-Nerf activity. If a Nerf system of feeding could be adapted, take the design or components for use with a constant pressure system. The only pressurized component would be the rubber hose leading from any solenoid valve to the breach plate which has a rotary-plate valve. The only timing is how precisely holes would be drilled in those two plates. The only resistance on that motor is what is used to turn the barrels. That is all;, nothing else robs power. Loading could be accomplished the same way that it would be for that design for spherical projectiles; a tube with a cam forcing a dart in once every 16.66 degrees. The darts could only be so long, however, probably closer to 1-1.5 inches.
What kind of drill are you using to power this thing? 4a? Even still, it might have torque to start the barrels, but power is still needed to keep the assembly turning.
Well, nice to know you dropped the syringes. You just replaced them with the same thing, only more powerful.
Ummm...just click the link...I drew that up awhile ago for a non-Nerf activity. If a Nerf system of feeding could be adapted, take the design or components for use with a constant pressure system. The only pressurized component would be the rubber hose leading from any solenoid valve to the breach plate which has a rotary-plate valve. The only timing is how precisely holes would be drilled in those two plates. The only resistance on that motor is what is used to turn the barrels. That is all;, nothing else robs power. Loading could be accomplished the same way that it would be for that design for spherical projectiles; a tube with a cam forcing a dart in once every 16.66 degrees. The darts could only be so long, however, probably closer to 1-1.5 inches.
What kind of drill are you using to power this thing? 4a? Even still, it might have torque to start the barrels, but power is still needed to keep the assembly turning.
#79135 C.s.h.g.
Posted by
on 07 April 2006 - 08:37 PM
in
Homemades
That would be the definition of kick-ass, no matter how it turned out as long as it fired at least 50ft. I mean, major kick-ass.
Okay, I'm gonna have to try my hand at making an automatic eventually. Lemme look at my building schedule for the next three months *looks through roster**finds that all projects are either in disrepair or unable to be finished* I have room...Ha, it looks as if Flaming Hilt might get his wish of a turreted gun in a van for MidMI...muahahaha...
Hopefully you get that thing done within the next month, 'cause I seriously need to see a finished product.
Okay, I'm gonna have to try my hand at making an automatic eventually. Lemme look at my building schedule for the next three months *looks through roster**finds that all projects are either in disrepair or unable to be finished* I have room...Ha, it looks as if Flaming Hilt might get his wish of a turreted gun in a van for MidMI...muahahaha...
Hopefully you get that thing done within the next month, 'cause I seriously need to see a finished product.
#79140 C.s.h.g.
Posted by
on 07 April 2006 - 10:11 PM
in
Homemades
Better yet: move that pistol grip (joystick handle) forward so that the base is 2" behind the hopper fill. Then, lash the blarmey to your arm, using a hook-and-loop adjustable 1.5" wide strap with the mount located where the joystick is on you latest CAD.
Hmm...two barrels, two systems...Mine'll be a bit different, especially since I'm not going to be governed by batteries and whatnot that you were. I could still use something to that effect, but I'll just wait until my AutoCAD LX or LS or whatever its called arrives...
Well, hurry it up lad! But always remember, measure twice, cut once. Or, be like me: never measure, use a mallet 'til it fits.
Hmm...two barrels, two systems...Mine'll be a bit different, especially since I'm not going to be governed by batteries and whatnot that you were. I could still use something to that effect, but I'll just wait until my AutoCAD LX or LS or whatever its called arrives...
Well, hurry it up lad! But always remember, measure twice, cut once. Or, be like me: never measure, use a mallet 'til it fits.
#83129 C.s.h.g.
Posted by
on 11 June 2006 - 05:09 PM
in
Homemades
Ever consider making your own tooling? Err...it's only for plastics anyway, so why not?
#77456 C.s.h.g.
Posted by
on 24 March 2006 - 09:42 PM
in
Homemades
I see problems at high RPM...not that that will be a problem or anything since a cordless drill will have enough torque after so long to turn that chamber assembly...might I recommend a specialized system, or perhaps plugging it in?
Ummm...there's a lot of angles and parabolas involved in this...what do you have for machinery/tooling at your disposal?
Have you thought about just using a constant-pressure chamber assembly housing and a valve plate instead of the syringes? The only reason why I would recommend that over the syringes is because the hardest part is just getting everything lined up while keeping the rotators running smooth. After that, why have the multiple springs rob power from the main drive assembly? I'll try and elaborate later, if I remember...
Pretty good lookin' so far, just double check your work and abilities the whole way through design and construction...
Ummm...there's a lot of angles and parabolas involved in this...what do you have for machinery/tooling at your disposal?
Have you thought about just using a constant-pressure chamber assembly housing and a valve plate instead of the syringes? The only reason why I would recommend that over the syringes is because the hardest part is just getting everything lined up while keeping the rotators running smooth. After that, why have the multiple springs rob power from the main drive assembly? I'll try and elaborate later, if I remember...
Pretty good lookin' so far, just double check your work and abilities the whole way through design and construction...
#79057 C.s.h.g.
Posted by
on 06 April 2006 - 08:55 PM
in
Homemades
Just make your plugs be 12v plugs, like a cigarette lighter.
Do you want an actual windshield-wiper switch? I think I might have one lying around somewhere...just pay for shipping and I'll be fine. I just need to find one for those amperages...that'll take all of a few minutes, hopefully.
10-15lbs? You think that is heavy? My SOBR weighs in at 4.9lbs and I still have to add a few more. Just make it so you have to hold the sucker like a movie-minigun, with the pistol grip in the rear and a forward handle. That makes it seem re-damn-diculously light. Seriously, then it could weigh up to 40lbs and you would then feel the difference. Better yet, Venom-ize it so that it is fired like a normal rifle. Seriously though, ten fifteen pounds is light. I mean, re-cock-ulously light, compared to some stuff I've had to haul a-field before...I like heavy things, however; hence, I am making the SOBR as heavy as I can get it. My goal is to make it at least 12lbs by sundown to-morra.
Do you want an actual windshield-wiper switch? I think I might have one lying around somewhere...just pay for shipping and I'll be fine. I just need to find one for those amperages...that'll take all of a few minutes, hopefully.
10-15lbs? You think that is heavy? My SOBR weighs in at 4.9lbs and I still have to add a few more. Just make it so you have to hold the sucker like a movie-minigun, with the pistol grip in the rear and a forward handle. That makes it seem re-damn-diculously light. Seriously, then it could weigh up to 40lbs and you would then feel the difference. Better yet, Venom-ize it so that it is fired like a normal rifle. Seriously though, ten fifteen pounds is light. I mean, re-cock-ulously light, compared to some stuff I've had to haul a-field before...I like heavy things, however; hence, I am making the SOBR as heavy as I can get it. My goal is to make it at least 12lbs by sundown to-morra.
#77668 C.s.h.g.
Posted by
on 26 March 2006 - 11:15 AM
in
Homemades
That can be accomplished with old driveshaft/tranny components. Take the yokes from the driveshaft and mount one to the output bearing on a tranny. Mount that whole thing on some sort of angle iron tripod. Then, take the other yoke (minus U-joint, that cross thing), attached to the gun, and use a bolt with a locknut to secure it to the yoke on the tripod. There ya go. You now have both elevation and yaw movement. Plus, if the bearing and yoke were welded along with the bearin and angle iron (all kinda have to be), there is a great amount of weight that mount could hold. I'd say that it easily could support over a hundred pounds, depending on support braces and what angles the legs extend from the bearing body.
#77747 C.s.h.g.
Posted by
on 26 March 2006 - 08:45 PM
in
Homemades
Now you are thinking better. Not that you were before, it's just that why take the trouble of completely designing every component from scratch? Use what other people have proved to work. I like to see that you have decided to do that.
Much better feed system. I mean, much better. So good, that I am going to take it if it works out well. Actually, I know that will work out well. I'm taking that, by the way, only for smaller projectiles and 6 barrels for a pneumatic thing I've been working on for the past month...
That top picture has the barrels rotating clockwise, by the way. I take it he chose to have the breach-end be pictured. Unless you really are Russian and have barrels rotating anti-clockwise...yes, some of their minigun did in fact rotate the wrong way. They have forward-back shotguns, too.
You forgot the most important reason why three barrels are better than one: there will be a better aesthetical appearance with 1/2" Sch40 barrels. Seriously...
Okay, that project of mine jumped up a notch. Time to complete the other two projects I have and try and finish some stuff by June...
Much better feed system. I mean, much better. So good, that I am going to take it if it works out well. Actually, I know that will work out well. I'm taking that, by the way, only for smaller projectiles and 6 barrels for a pneumatic thing I've been working on for the past month...
That top picture has the barrels rotating clockwise, by the way. I take it he chose to have the breach-end be pictured. Unless you really are Russian and have barrels rotating anti-clockwise...yes, some of their minigun did in fact rotate the wrong way. They have forward-back shotguns, too.
You forgot the most important reason why three barrels are better than one: there will be a better aesthetical appearance with 1/2" Sch40 barrels. Seriously...
Okay, that project of mine jumped up a notch. Time to complete the other two projects I have and try and finish some stuff by June...
#77592 C.s.h.g.
Posted by
on 25 March 2006 - 08:45 PM
in
Homemades
Oh, okay then.
If I didn't have so many projects to have to do, I'd start work on one. So far, I've been forced to lighten my load. Now I just have to: finish coaxial homemade, SNAP knock-off, practice bomb, sounds system, and a few other thinds I need in the months of June and July.
Well, good luck, again...
If I didn't have so many projects to have to do, I'd start work on one. So far, I've been forced to lighten my load. Now I just have to: finish coaxial homemade, SNAP knock-off, practice bomb, sounds system, and a few other thinds I need in the months of June and July.
Well, good luck, again...
#77657 C.s.h.g.
Posted by
on 26 March 2006 - 07:52 AM
in
Homemades
Hey, what's wrong with three barrels?
That thing is going to be pretty neat. I like the idea for loading the barrels. I still don't like the spring operation, but that's because no matter where I go to play locally, something like this would be pretty stationary since we enjoy CTF a lot.
Good luck keeping up with Stefan demands. I see that thing using a lot in very little since it is fully automatic. Just shooting one or two rounds a second is pretty bad.
Have you thought of gearing down the barrel assembly so that the drill can run easier at a higher RPM? Something like 2:1 or 3:1 would be good. It would make your drill last longer as well.
That thing is going to be pretty neat. I like the idea for loading the barrels. I still don't like the spring operation, but that's because no matter where I go to play locally, something like this would be pretty stationary since we enjoy CTF a lot.
Good luck keeping up with Stefan demands. I see that thing using a lot in very little since it is fully automatic. Just shooting one or two rounds a second is pretty bad.
Have you thought of gearing down the barrel assembly so that the drill can run easier at a higher RPM? Something like 2:1 or 3:1 would be good. It would make your drill last longer as well.
#77580 C.s.h.g.
Posted by
on 25 March 2006 - 06:58 PM
in
Homemades
I was thinking just keeping it hooked up to an air compressor, as in, a large 20 gal. 5hp compressor. That would keep up with demands of anything. It would limit the effective use, but...
#77770 C.s.h.g.
Posted by
on 26 March 2006 - 11:03 PM
in
Homemades
Depends on if the perspective is giving or receiving massive amounts lead, er, solid core depleted uranium rather. Same thing as lead really, but...anyway, back on topic. If seen from the firer, then the barrels are moving clockwise, or so it was told to me. I dunno if the source was right, but it always seemed right to me. I really don't know though...
The Russians have the best firearms designs for simplicity, functionality, and real world performance. They are the definitive firearms manufacturers.
The Russians have the best firearms designs for simplicity, functionality, and real world performance. They are the definitive firearms manufacturers.
#27567 Nerf Vs. Paintball
Posted by
on 02 June 2004 - 06:57 PM
in
Articles
Quite right. Have you also noticed they are both by Vacc? That too, interesting. Several articles on NH are also, almost identicle (sp?) to the ones on NO.
Actually, you can get in trouble for "War". The consequences are similar to "Assault". The only reason I know this is because I was at a friend's house and someone called the cops on us for shooting at each other. All that the police said was that we shouldn't be doing that with things that can inflict welts or long-term wounds. He also said that it was considered "War" and that we should not shoot at each other. He let us off with a warning because of my friend's dad's defense, that and the neighbors described the guns as pellet rifles. That may have been because of what happened earlier, but that is not relevent. We were shooting at a target with a .22 pellet rifle. This also was in a strictly ruled township so that may have played a part, so now we Nerf near my house, which is out of that township by 450 feet. My neighbors could care less, as long as we don't hurt their kids.
Also, you won't get in trouble shooting "foam darts." I mean, how ominous does that sound?
Actually, you can get in trouble for "War". The consequences are similar to "Assault". The only reason I know this is because I was at a friend's house and someone called the cops on us for shooting at each other. All that the police said was that we shouldn't be doing that with things that can inflict welts or long-term wounds. He also said that it was considered "War" and that we should not shoot at each other. He let us off with a warning because of my friend's dad's defense, that and the neighbors described the guns as pellet rifles. That may have been because of what happened earlier, but that is not relevent. We were shooting at a target with a .22 pellet rifle. This also was in a strictly ruled township so that may have played a part, so now we Nerf near my house, which is out of that township by 450 feet. My neighbors could care less, as long as we don't hurt their kids.
#79005 Angels Bbb
Posted by
on 06 April 2006 - 01:19 PM
in
Modifications
I have a few ideas about what that poster is behind there...care to enlighten us or is it what I think it is?
Hey, where did you get the music for that mask video...I must have it...
Nice job, or, congrats on a job well done. I really will have to think about getting a BBB now.
Hey, where did you get the music for that mask video...I must have it...
Nice job, or, congrats on a job well done. I really will have to think about getting a BBB now.
#78994 Angels Bbb
Posted by
on 06 April 2006 - 11:43 AM
in
Modifications
This may seem kind of weird to some people, but I save all of my old deorderant sticks. I mean, I have a stack of about three right now, but that'll go up by one in a few weeks. I'm gonna have to start cleaning those out, even though I have no idea what I will use them in. Perhaps I'm gonna have to pick up a BBB as well...
Unfortunatly I use micro Stefans that are 1.75" long, so my darts don't fit too well. I'd have to make a couple of plates out of aircraft plywood or balsa sheets.
Unfortunatly I use micro Stefans that are 1.75" long, so my darts don't fit too well. I'd have to make a couple of plates out of aircraft plywood or balsa sheets.
#81732 Angels Bbb
Posted by
on 12 May 2006 - 09:42 PM
in
Modifications
Oh...you run a staggered stack, or double stack. Gotta add that to something over on bolt's forum...
I'm gonna attempt this thing sometime later in the week. Hopefully it will turn out at leasat half as well as angel's did...
I'm gonna attempt this thing sometime later in the week. Hopefully it will turn out at leasat half as well as angel's did...
#78778 Titan Mod
Posted by
on 04 April 2006 - 07:36 PM
in
Modifications
Any gun that gets over 150' I think is way too powerful for any conventional nerf war.
Hmm...conventional...hmmm...MidMI isn't that conventional since the clan KAF isn't that conventional. So, ompa, if you want to make a road trip to be allwoed to go against your judgement and shoot your Titan to the best of its potential, come to MidMI.
Yeah, "conventional" wars don't have ranges over 300 yards...
#81570 A.b.p
Posted by
on 09 May 2006 - 03:32 PM
in
Homemades
After saying that,
Then after picking my faw up from the floor, I decided to post.
Wow man, I mean....I can't say anything.
That is awesome. Defintion of awesome is that.
Did I mention you are insanely fast with Alibre? I think I should go make something on it now...
Good luck.
#79095 Fall '06 Blasters
Posted by
on 07 April 2006 - 01:15 AM
in
General Nerf
Two percent milk, one percent milk, half percent milk, skim (zero percent) milk, the fat levels, have I enlightened you now?
There may be a few anonymous Hasbro employees here. I dunno. They probably have no posts or something.
DT3s are awesome guns. I wish I had one...Seriously, I'd prefer that to a Xbow. Probably not a BBB, but the DT3 is second on my list...
Ha. Hasbro employees not knowing the history of what they are designing and selling. Not necessarily marketing since that is usually outsourced to advertisement agencies, but stilll, funny shit right there. Maybe that's why they have not wanted to rerelease the Xbow. None of them know what it is!
Huh. My back is bleeding, and I don't know why. That's puzzling, is it not?
There may be a few anonymous Hasbro employees here. I dunno. They probably have no posts or something.
DT3s are awesome guns. I wish I had one...Seriously, I'd prefer that to a Xbow. Probably not a BBB, but the DT3 is second on my list...
Ha. Hasbro employees not knowing the history of what they are designing and selling. Not necessarily marketing since that is usually outsourced to advertisement agencies, but stilll, funny shit right there. Maybe that's why they have not wanted to rerelease the Xbow. None of them know what it is!
Huh. My back is bleeding, and I don't know why. That's puzzling, is it not?
#79079 Fall '06 Blasters
Posted by
on 06 April 2006 - 10:20 PM
in
General Nerf
The NF was practically a LnL rerelease. Now shut up.
Hey Greek Assassin, your newb is showing, hide it.
In case no one remembers, there is in fact a member here who is part of the Nerf brand itself, be it Hasbro or whoever now own the "Nerf" trademark/technology.
Hey Greek Assassin, your newb is showing, hide it.
In case no one remembers, there is in fact a member here who is part of the Nerf brand itself, be it Hasbro or whoever now own the "Nerf" trademark/technology.
#79076 Fall '06 Blasters
Posted by
on 06 April 2006 - 10:02 PM
in
General Nerf
I'm patient enough to just wait and find out
That's the most sense I've read in all 15 or so pages in this thread. Dayum...
I don't really care what it looks like, how it works, or what can be done to it. Those are just pictures, now listen to CS. Seriously, that is the greatest idea yet, just wait and see. Sure, I'm just as excided about these as the next Nerfer, but all that I really care about are the words "magazine" and "rifle." Other than that, I'm glad Nerf is finally making something for use larger peoples...Mmm...Crossbow...
#79100 Fall '06 Blasters
Posted by
on 07 April 2006 - 07:54 AM
in
General Nerf
A...PA, let's see, umm...Wikipedia. Sometimes referred to as "cow juice," "melk," and "that white shit made by cows." Seriously, I heard that last one before.
Know what, forget I said it althogether. This is recockulously off-topic.
Time to try and get myself on-topic now...hm..
I think I know someone who will buy this when it comes out strictly because they can. Funny shtuff. All I said was "magazine-fed," "spring powered," and "shoots Stefan-like darts" and they wanted it. Hmm...I guess I never really got too excited about new things like this...
Know what, forget I said it althogether. This is recockulously off-topic.
Time to try and get myself on-topic now...hm..
I think I know someone who will buy this when it comes out strictly because they can. Funny shtuff. All I said was "magazine-fed," "spring powered," and "shoots Stefan-like darts" and they wanted it. Hmm...I guess I never really got too excited about new things like this...
#79083 Fall '06 Blasters
Posted by
on 06 April 2006 - 10:44 PM
in
General Nerf
#79093 Fall '06 Blasters
Posted by
on 07 April 2006 - 12:50 AM
in
General Nerf
Even though I wasn't there, I'm almost positive they said Xbow, just 'cause. Wasn't chiefthe there as well? I think he was talking about going to a war in some war-planning thread...
Well, I guess we should speculate somewhat on the new guns, but remember the Mav thread? Yeah...exactly.
Sure, we're not the major consumers, but half of a percent? Come on, we are at least two percent milk here.
Well, I guess we should speculate somewhat on the new guns, but remember the Mav thread? Yeah...exactly.
Sure, we're not the major consumers, but half of a percent? Come on, we are at least two percent milk here.
#77507 The Snap-1 Mk2
Posted by
on 25 March 2006 - 11:19 AM
in
Homemades
Well, the piston head (plunger head) willl weigh approx. 4 oz. without any holes. The piston itself will probably be made of whatever steel (aluminum if I'm lucky) tubing I can find. I have most of the differences between that and mine down, I just need to write a shopping list. After that, I will start work, probably finishing this over my spring break. Then I will have two homemades which work as, well, Nerf homemades should, shooting mega Stefans. I think I'm gonna do a SNAP-2 style thing with a modified Unkown breach.
So theroretically speaking, if I stick to the 4:1 cylinder to barrel ratio, I should be getting the same 100' ranges, right?
Measures of each piece that I have calculated so far:
A few questions:
1.) Can I hold the whole thing together with sheet metal screws? Exception being the cylinder head and piston head. Those would be glued. The cylinder head is the reducer from 2" slip down to 1" female thread.
2.) Should I use "see bottom this post"?
3.) Should I make the piston travel longer? I have really stiff springs which are 16" long. I might even have a 20" somewhere...
LINK!
With that, I could pop out the four (in a cross pattern parallel to the base of the pipe) to remove the piston, spring, spring guide, and spring stop thingy.
Edit: that spring guide is threaded steel rod by the way. It is secured to the bushing plug via two lock nuts and two washers. There would be a coupling which would be were the pins are as well so there is twice as much material. That would also allow me to put this back together more easily.
So theroretically speaking, if I stick to the 4:1 cylinder to barrel ratio, I should be getting the same 100' ranges, right?
Measures of each piece that I have calculated so far:
- LoP~12"
- Overall Length~53"
- Piston Travel~10"
- Barrel Length~30"
A few questions:
1.) Can I hold the whole thing together with sheet metal screws? Exception being the cylinder head and piston head. Those would be glued. The cylinder head is the reducer from 2" slip down to 1" female thread.
2.) Should I use "see bottom this post"?
3.) Should I make the piston travel longer? I have really stiff springs which are 16" long. I might even have a 20" somewhere...
LINK!
With that, I could pop out the four (in a cross pattern parallel to the base of the pipe) to remove the piston, spring, spring guide, and spring stop thingy.
Edit: that spring guide is threaded steel rod by the way. It is secured to the bushing plug via two lock nuts and two washers. There would be a coupling which would be were the pins are as well so there is twice as much material. That would also allow me to put this back together more easily.
#77941 The Snap-1 Mk2
Posted by
on 28 March 2006 - 06:08 PM
in
Homemades
Hey, I got me some springs for free. However, they take a bit of strength to compress. Since I can use hand excercisers up to 150 lbs and these springs moved a 100 lb. scale without compressing more than a half inch, I dunno if I could use 'em.
Pic!
That plate next to it is from an air chamber (large diaphragm valve) which is about 5" in diameter. The springs are 11" and 12" long.
To make relevant to the grip situation, if I used these springs and held on to the grip while cocking, the bond would break before it reached half-cock. Not only that, the force (if it did get fully cocked) would probable break the piston head when it slams into the cylinder head...
I'm gonna look through Lowes' supply ans see if I can't find a 1" I.D. spring or a 2" O.D. spring. One or the other, or one for each gun since I have to make a few of these before June...
Pic!
That plate next to it is from an air chamber (large diaphragm valve) which is about 5" in diameter. The springs are 11" and 12" long.
To make relevant to the grip situation, if I used these springs and held on to the grip while cocking, the bond would break before it reached half-cock. Not only that, the force (if it did get fully cocked) would probable break the piston head when it slams into the cylinder head...
I'm gonna look through Lowes' supply ans see if I can't find a 1" I.D. spring or a 2" O.D. spring. One or the other, or one for each gun since I have to make a few of these before June...
#77391 The Snap-1 Mk2
Posted by
on 24 March 2006 - 06:26 AM
in
Homemades
Yeah, I think I'm gonna make one of these, only with 2" PVC instead of 1.25" since that's what I have laying around. I'll have to use 1.25" PVC and fittings in place of the 3/4", but big deal.
Very nice write-up, by the way. I didn't find anything missing...
Very nice write-up, by the way. I didn't find anything missing...
#77529 The Snap-1 Mk2
Posted by
on 25 March 2006 - 02:41 PM
in
Homemades
Yeah...that wasn't the plunger. That was what held the spring at the back of the gun. I have later since noticed many massive problems and redid that image to what is now here. Yeah...self-explanatory. I rushed that image so there are some screwups, it also is not to scale. Pretty much, it is the same thing as the SNAP only 2" and with a different system of holding the spring at the back of the gun. Roll pins will be behind a 1.25" bushing cap. This will allow me to remove the whole piston, spring, etc. by just popping out two or four roll pins. The whole thing will be held together with screws, utilizing set screws to keep that rear bushing centered.
#53299 My Newest Homemade
Posted by
on 23 April 2005 - 09:25 PM
in
Homemades
Hardlines WILL snap if too much outside force occurs. With other lines, it's just like using 1/4" OD vinyl tubing, but with a max. pressure of 1000 psi, not 50 or so. I'd recommend using 3/8" OD tubing, or something to that effect. For instance, I have air brake line if I wanted to do that, which can go up to 1500 psi. Also, what paintball markers use are pin valves in the tanks. That's how their removeable, although no one asked that. That was random. Anywho, If you mount the tank to the grip frame, you could use a drop-forward to get the tank closer to the front of the gun, therefore improving balance and shortening the length of the hose. If I didn't already have a few projects started, I'd start one of these too, just because it looks cool.the hose will not snap or anything.
