GeneralPrimevil's Content

#25871 New Valve?

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 11 May 2004 - 04:12 PM in Homemades

Hello,
I'm not new to nerf (5 years practice), but I've only made two homemades. This valve may work for several designs that require a faster opening valve than a ball valve, but not as many small parts as a Zero valve, although I haven't really heard much about those. it just seems as if the Zero valve, according to the instructions on this website, has too small of an airway in it. I already have a use for it in a bolt-action rifle that requires a larger diameter (less restricted) air flow. The design for the valve seems simple. I just came up with it at school and was wondering what you guys thought of it, cause most of you have made several homemades yourselves. Sorry for the crappyness (word?) of the photo, but i had to scan it on low resolution. The little rod thing (green), when pulled, opens up the valve by moving a tube (yellow) that crosses between the in/outlets (light blue). This could be made out of most any material, I think.
Posted Image

P.S.-Don't care about the writing in the photo. It's illegible on the real drawing too. javascript:emoticon(' ^_^

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#25940 New Valve?

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 12 May 2004 - 03:57 PM in Homemades

Thanks for the advice. The two black bars near the inlet and outlet were supposed to be marked as o-rings, but not lubed o-rings; I never thought of those. I should have a few valves for testing, and for use in a homemademade, this weekend. It will be made entirely of steel. A description of how it works is as follows: the air tank/pump is attached to one of the in/outlets, light blue parts. The line to the barrel is attached to the other. Inside the pipe that moves, yellow, there is another pipe either the same or smaller diameter than the in/outlets that is going perpendicular to the moving yellow part. When the green rod is pushed in, it moves the yellow part which moves the cross tube (perpendicular pipe) to open an air passage between the light blue pieces. There is a variably weighted spring that will return the yellow piece to allow the rest of that pipe to not allow the air to flow through the in/outlets freely, unles it leaked, which is the point to the (lubed) o-rings, to prevent air from escaping between the 'lets, causing lost pressure. Once the valve is closed again, it can be repressurized.

Vintage, to answer your last post, no, you're not the only one that doesn't get it, I don't get the design for that air regulator either.

#25977 New Valve?

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 12 May 2004 - 08:13 PM in Homemades

I'd have to agree about the resemblance being a little close. I didn't know that you had come up with a design similar to this. The only difference I can tell is that your's seems to be more of a semi-auto type valve, where the one I drew would require a second valve, similar to the advanced ball valve homemade design, in order to make it semi. If this has a name on it, it shouldn't be mine cause this was just my take on a homemade version of the valves found in a RF20. It's not exact, but it can't be cause Nerf probably has it patented. Otherwise, the RF20 one is aslo very simple. The difference between the one posted by me and that one is that that one has the inlet beneath the valve itself, not directly across from the outlet on the side of the valve.

#25992 Time

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 12 May 2004 - 09:02 PM in Off Topic

So either way, you're screwed if you enter this thing?

If my "beliefs" on time travel are true though, then teleportation would be how to travel in time. I think that there is this exact same galaxy/solar system/planet/thingy somewhere else in the universe, maybe hundreds of them, but at different time stages. For instance, there could be one with this esarth only 3 million years in the past. Or future for that matter. And if we could teleport, then we could go to that different timed planet. But since we can't get back, we'd need one large cell phone coverage plan in order to relay our findings. That's just what I think, I also think someone covered this earlier in this thread. This whole post is kinda stupid on my part, but oh well. Great thread though! Very interesting.

#26101 Lefty? Righty? Switch?

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 13 May 2004 - 06:04 PM in General Nerf

That's pretty similar to me. I voted switch. I'm a righty, but I can shoot with my left hand quite naturally, but it all depends on the surroundings (walls, shrubs, etc.). So ambidextrous people might rule in nerf. I know it helps a bit in paintball, but these to sports (paintball and nerf) don't compare at all.

#26159 Conscious Of My Nitefinder

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 14 May 2004 - 05:44 AM in Modifications

Even when my NF was stock, it still had the "vibrating" sound of the spring. I've given it a Crayola barrel and a three-inch section of 1/2 inch PVC fitted a half inch on the Crayola (removable barrel=quicker reloads), put a 3/8 inch hole in the cap-thing, added 2 3 band chains and 1 2 band chain, and it too has the very small trigger pull. It only has to be pulled 1/8 of an inch before it fires. So I think that this may just be because of added pressure on the catch. Oh yeah, and the ringing is still there. It's so loud now, though, that my friend can hear it 15 feet away when it's fired. I'll have a look-see at the internals after school (sucks being 13), I need to fix a few things while its open anyway. I might see if i can do some sound wrapping also. That should make it quieter.

#26184 Conscious Of My Nitefinder

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 14 May 2004 - 03:55 PM in Modifications

I pulled apart my NF and found something that worries me; extensive wear on the plunger tube bracket eyes. They have mishapen in the four days that I've had an increase in force on the plunger. The shape of the original circle has turned into what resembles an egg shape. My guess is that since I had the end of the plunger tube cemented in, that the force of the plunger against the cap must be moved to the bracket eyes. Normally the stock barrel would keep the plunger tube from moving, but since the tube can move a bit freely on mine, it just warped the screw holes (eyes). It's not too much of a worry right now, but it makes my NF fire 3 inches upward at 7 feet, even when the gun is held flat on a table. Eventually I expect those to break on mine. Does anyone else have this problem? I wouldn't be surprised if you did. Since I'm going to be working with some metal this weekend, or next, I might reinforce the catch, plunger shaft, and rear of the gun where the spring has force applied to. I might also make a new plunger tube. Sounds like alot of work, but oh well.

#26188 Homemade Ball Valve Gun

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 14 May 2004 - 04:21 PM in Homemades

Does it use a 3/4 inch barrel or a 5/8 inch barrel diameter? Cause i made one with a 3/4 inch barrel, shot a mega dart in it with 80 psi with a two foot barrel, and the dart exploded. But the second shot went 60 feet becaus it spiralled into the ground. The tip wasn't heavy enough. I don't really see why your's only shot 30 feet. Unless you did use a 5/8" barrel with a nerf mega dart, not a stefan mega, meaning that the two foot barrel was useless except it only acyed as an expansion chamber makin less pressure hit the dart. But still, there must have been a fault somewhere in your construction. What design of a ball valve homemade was it? Multiple shots from one fill or shoot it and fill it? Because one thing to remember is to always have a firing tank the same size volume as your barrel. Otherwise the dart won't do as much in performance. That's what i have noticed with testing of my homemade.

#26520 Homemade Internals For Sm1500

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 19 May 2004 - 08:06 AM in Homemades

I'm not sure if this should be in the "Homemades" section, because it is using what is prebuilt (case), but has homemade pieces (internals). I have a few ideas, but half of them use CO2 instead of retaining the pump handle. This whole post seems kind of newbish, but I was just wondering if anyone else had undertaken a job like this. If so, ten any and all iformation and advice is welcome. Or, for those of you who want to blow off smoke, I guess this may be the time to flame because this probably belonged in the "modification" section. On to the ideas.

1.) Completely homemade with CO2. I posted a valve on this site before. Using a small verson of that valve (2.25 inch total length) and some braided steel cable tubes, along with a new barrel/valve coupler, as in, the thing that connects the valve to the barrel turret, in order to alow higher pressure CO2. The CO2 adapter will be the one found on the site linked below. I would also have to re-engineer the trigger out of 1/4 inch steel plate in order to allow the new valve.

2.) Same as above, but instead of a CO2 adapter and stuff, the pump and tube from a Blastfire because the original pump (and valve) have no threads for tubes.

3.) Just throwing it all away, and selling the case. I would use the turrets on my NF then.

Number three seems to be the easiest solution.

<Links>

CO2 adapter:
http://shortyusa.com...x.html?RID=3923
Don't worry about the DEagle in the picture, it doesn't come with it :angry:

valve:
http://nerfhaven.com...?showtopic=2144

Flames welcome for my stupidity, or for requesting to be yelled at. I just really see no purpose for this either. It just gives me something to do for the summer. ^_^

Advice is welcome. Be it with this project or for future posts on this websites forum.

#26533 1500 Spupermax

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 19 May 2004 - 12:44 PM in General Nerf

Barely with my homemade on 70psi, using a full tank dump (instead of using the firing chamber alone), can I achieve 200' angled with a mega Zero dart ( i have a 3/4" barrel on it). So i would have to aree with everyone else about the whole 150' flat, 200' angled, with a SM1500, unless it's pumped 50 times, but you only said 4-5 times.

With the other topic on this thread, I don't have to angle any of my guns that I've modified. They all have the barrels tilted upward at least 10 degrees. My NF is the worst at 25 degrees. Not on purpose, but it's just what happened when I jammed the crayola barrel in it.

So yeah, I now have to angle my gun downward in order to hit anything within 40' of me with my NF.

#26535 Homemade Internals For Sm1500

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 19 May 2004 - 01:30 PM in Homemades

Well I decided to just stick the barrel assembly on my NF. They fit pretty well, after i got out a few saws and knives. :w00t:

I'll post pics on this thread or a new one, along with a few guidelines, for anyone who asks.

Hmm...super soaker? I have an old XP55 and XXP175 that need something to do. I'm kinda interested in your project because one of them has two barrels and can be modified to use rubber bladders instead of tanks to hold pressure, once i get around to it. The other is useless without a pump, so iuf your idea uses something besides a pump, then i would definetly like to know if your idea uses CO2, compressed air, etc., and how it works out.

<EDIT> Is it just me, or does the pull valve in an XP55 look very similar to the oones used in SM? It may just be that they're both pull valves and that's why<EDIT>

#26571 Homemade Internals For Sm1500

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 19 May 2004 - 05:54 PM in Homemades

I was just planning on taking the bladder from my RF20 because that gun got toasted last time I used it. That would require having an open three-way splitter hooked up to the hose clamp end, the pump, and the valve. More than likley, though, this would be on the XP55 because I just set it up for shooting nerf darts about an hour ago. Unfortunately, I had to use what scrap of 1/2" PVC I had, which was only a few inches, so my barrel is definetly undersized. I had to use a Crayola barrel/breach thing in order to allow the dart to have more pressure built up behind it before it leaves the barrel. I plan on having a 2' copper barrel later in the summer when I have money, or maybe just next week. It is undetermined at this point for I live in Michigan and the weather is never reliable. Here's a pic of the modded XP55:
file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Administrator/My%20Documents/My%20Pictures/nerf%20009.jpg
In case you can't tell from the picture, which you probably can't from the angle at which it was taken, it uses a SM1500 pump. The picture may not work, if so, then just say so and I'll try it again. Sorry for the typos in the last post. I was tired. That's also why the picture is a bit blurry.

#26688 Nerf Grenades

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 21 May 2004 - 07:30 PM in Homemades

Ok, I would like to clear up a few things. First off, Airsoft BBs have nothing to do with their name. They are not to soft and have noting to do with air, except that is what they fly through and that is what moves them from out of the barrel. Unless Green Gas, Top Gas, or CO2 is used. Second, the idea of using a pipe with pores that have projectiles in them (Seirus put that earlier in this thread) is, in fact, a decent form of a grenade. My version of this idea is to use a weak glue to hold biodegradeable Airsoft BBs (they do make them) in the pores. That way, when a nail, with lead attached to the point, but retaining the point, it would have enough power to penetrate a thin membrane (made of replaceable material), behind which is the pressurized air that would then be released by the puncture in the membrane. The nail could even be aided by a spring, or even a spring alone, no lead as a weight. Then it would resemble a rfeal grenade, the only difference is that this one would have no percussion cap/primer that the nail would strike. To fire it, the nail's head would be held up by a piece that is flung off by a trip cord. I guess though that this design is not that much a grenade, but more of a land mine. As you can tell, though, the "nail" would actually have to be a custom molded piece that has to heads, one for the spring and one for the firing pin. After typing this all up, however, I noticed that this design is a real piece of crap that I shouldn't have posted, but it may inspire new ideas to the minds of whoever reads this. And maybe I'll grow a new brain. The new one might be more descriptive in designs of an object that I see as useless on a Nerf battlefield.

One last thing, alkaselzer (sp) does not provide very much force when put in water and shaken up in a film case. I know this from first hand experience in the fifth grade. Even when the kid used three selzers and a full thing of water, and all other posibilities of combinations, he was not able to get a very large amount of force rapidly. The best working version took two minutes to blow. It really blew though. I'm sorry that I don't remember the amounts of the water/seltzers that he used. Just take this post as my two cents, and then sum.

#26696 Water Bottle Stock

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 21 May 2004 - 08:45 PM in Modifications

Not to be going off topic, but it is possible to get pictures on the Internet even if you don't have a digital camera. When you get the pictures developed on a standard film camera, depending on where you go you can get a CD that has those pictures on it. Then all you do is save the pic of the stock on your computer as a file that is for pictures (i.e. .jpg, .gif). Go to this site and enter the file name that you saved it under. Then click browse. The complete file name should then show up where you typed the -filename-.-whatever compressed format it was saved as-. Click "host It" at the base of the page. It will then give you an address that you will entered into your post on a forum (in this case Nerfhaven's forum). Copy and paste that url in your post and there you go! Free web hosting and a picture to help out Hunter or whoever else needs it. I got this by searching these forums by the way.

#26774 Just Bought An Rf20

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 23 May 2004 - 10:25 AM in General Nerf

I think he means that people should buy a RF20 and use it with something that has more range and accuracy, like a NF or TTG. That way they have the best of both worlds with only two/three guns at hand. I personall think that the RF20 sucks. It may just be mine though cause it uses a SM1500 pump instead of the RF20 pump and has no trigger, but instead uses the valve directly as a "trigger". Otherwise, I would agree with Jin Kazama that this post was pointless, but most of us have pointlessly posted before. Especially me. This time is no exception.

#26855 Code Of Conduct

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 24 May 2004 - 04:16 AM in Site Feedback

It's fine. Besides, everything on there is common sense. It allows everyone to read a post and know what the hell their talking about. Who really uses the whole AIM-style writing on AIM anyway? I don't, neither do my friends.

#26914 Rajghjg

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 24 May 2004 - 07:08 PM in Modifications

Well the way I modded my RF20 was by removing all the screws that hold the barrels on. Then, by replacing the one in the front with a hook, all I have to do is just unscrew the hook to replace the barrels. The rotating piece (the barrel backs) then stays in tha gun at all times. No cutting of the body, but it takes longer to replace barrel assemblies. I never really used my RF20 though, especially after I became team loser. Eventually the RF20 I have will be CO2 powered and use a belt loading system. Until then, Super Soaker and NF all the way.

To reply your problem, did you cut out enough plastic to get the barrel assembly removed? Pics may help, if possible.

#26917 Just A Thought...

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 24 May 2004 - 07:15 PM in Homemades

New project. I am selling my dirtbike, so with the money I will recieve, I have permission by my mom to get a golf cart that can be modified anyway I want. So far I'm leaning toward an electric one. That way I can use capacitors for an extra "boost" of speed. Anyhow, I will be using half-inch plywood as armor and turn the cart into a tank. There will be no rotating turret, but I may use a carbide cannon or variation of a spud gun to shoot three-to-four inch projectiles, probably anti-personnel shot high-arch mortar-style. I have designs for everything, including the electric schematics (I already have someone willing to sell me there cart) and cannon/projectiles. The major question I have is: should I dip my head in the acid and do this? I might scan a few sketches and post them here.

#26928 Rajghjg

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 24 May 2004 - 08:01 PM in Modifications

You've probably heard this too often, but if you search for this word: pictures, you will in fact come up with a thread that I have posted in. Skip it, I'll do it for you. Here it is. Scroll down to where you find my user name has posted. There you go. If you have any questions on that, just research "posting pistures" on this website. Or ask me somehow, either way, it'll help.

#26939 Nerf Hurts

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 24 May 2004 - 08:19 PM in General Nerf

There is an article on NerfOnline about this. I would just like to hear your experiences. I have a few great ones. Here goes. Just today, at forty feet, my super soaker with properly weighted half inch stefan, shot straight through 1/8 inch steel :lol:

. It also chips concrete and has three times the penetration of a large penis traveling at three hundred fifty feet per second. Another one, this time with a modded (Bands, Crayola breech/2" 1/2 PVC barrel, no air restriction, at all) Nite Finder at about ten feet. Shot someone in the stomach two weeks ago, left a welt that bled and has a mark that was still there sunday. That was with a standard nerf micro. One last one with a Bow'n Arrow (only mods to blaster were bands and last 3/4" of barrel cut off) at about twenty feet. Shot a re-weighted arrow, went through a half inch of plexy glass. I know many people have worse horror stories than this, so let's hear them. These were probably the worst that I personally have done with my Nerf stuff. I have heard worse that involved nails in nerf darts. What he was thinking we may never know. :w00t:

<EDIT>Whoops. At the time, I also had my B'nA with a new spring that was double the gauge of the standard spring. It also might have been 3/8 inch plexy glass too.<EDIT>

Blue = Cxwq

#26942 Nerf Hurts

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 24 May 2004 - 08:28 PM in General Nerf

Yeah. I just remembered a bit more about the plexy glass story. The steel was a garage door. Whoops. My mom didn't care too much. What's funny is how the barrel on that super soaker is made entirely of carboard. I took a gift paper tube, cut the length i needed, and then cut the strip needed. Taped it together and there it is, two and a half foot barrel made from carboard tubing and masking tape.

#27001 Just A Thought...

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 25 May 2004 - 03:37 PM in Homemades

I never really planned to use it in a war. Since the campground I go to has golf cart activities, one of which is wars when it's before season ( with both nerf and non-nerf items), it is kinda neat. I would also probably use it at a friend's house who lives on 12 acres of woods. I never really thought about the new guns this fall. I'll have to put a few hundred dollars aside. But that's why I like this site; there is always advice. I'm surprised that no one flamed me for posting the idea. It could be balanced with another tank on the other team's side, but then the fun's gone. Although, it would introduce some new homemade arrow launchers as anti-tank weaponry. Well I live in suburban Michigan so there aren't very many wars with a ton of people. The largest I've been in had 14 people dispersed between two teams.

#27002 New Use For Ball Valves

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 25 May 2004 - 03:47 PM in Homemades

Hmm...
Do you mean so that it opens easier? because if the spring itself opens it, then during refilling one has to keep their hand on the valve handle. I was thinking of something very similar to this, but ruled it out because of that. Instead I just use the thumd on my left hand to assist, once I get my homemade working again. Solenoids operated valves, however costly they are, are pretty much the best choice for a quickly opening valve. As for a latch, what kind of valve handle? If it has a plastic double wing design, just drill a hole and hook up one end of the spring to it. If it has one handle, I guess the same thing, except it's metal, so use of a stronger bit and more powerful drill is needed.

#27003 Rajghjg

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 25 May 2004 - 03:57 PM in Modifications

Well I'm looking at my RF20 right now, for comparison. I think I see why. If you look into the barrels, on the side you cut you will notice some plastic "folded" over at 90 degrees. Maybe if you remove some, then you can tilt the barrels to the opposite side of the cut and then pull out. It's kinda hard to explain, even with pics. I'd have to be in person with the gun to show you.

Magnets? That was a brilliant idea. Too bad I stopped using the RF20. I even took the pump out and used it to replace my super soaker pump. Now I have an SM1500 pump on the RF20. Sucks like no tomorrow.

#27005 Rajghjg

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 25 May 2004 - 04:47 PM in Modifications

Yeah, I figured. I reread what I put and I don't even understand. Umm...If you were to look at the picture, to the upper left of the barrels there is plastic that has yet to be cut. If you were to cut about a half inch of that off, then you will be able to tilt the barrel assembly out of the gun. That may not help very much, but it's difficult to describe.

#27062 Just A Thought...

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 26 May 2004 - 04:54 PM in Homemades

Hmm...I live in the Grand Rapids area, about three hours from Detroit. Also, that was about three or four years ago. They all sold their stuff now to pay for other stuff.

As for the anti-tank weapons, I was thinking more along the lines of one very powerful homemade that was about five feet long and shoulder fired. Maybe solenoid operated?

Accessories for the cart are endless. I mean, neon lights around the base, chrome pipes, chrome bumpers,anything. Unfortunately the plywood would cover it all up.

#27071 Just A Thought...

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 26 May 2004 - 07:03 PM in Homemades

It would be even better if they were removeable, belt fed, and CO2 powered. THen after the tank is destroyed, the people in it could grab the guns and go. With the belts and CO2, they would not have to be pumped or reloaded often. This golf cart tank idea sounds better daily. I definetly will have to start once my school gets out (June 3).

I might be able to go there this summer. PM me the whereabouts and stuff because we don't want to hijack my thread. I might be able to bring a few (like two) friends. They don't have very many weapons (one has a T3, the other a PC, who might be buying a NF, and a weird Batman gun thing) but I am going to be lending the one with the T3 my RF20, and the PC one my homemade. That way they will have a bit more and won't suck too bad. I'll give profiles of both on a PM if you want.

#27080 Nerf Hurts

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 26 May 2004 - 07:43 PM in General Nerf

I thought Zero Darts had a fishing weight (a.k.a. lead tip) in them. Am I mistaken? Oh yeah, felt provides less barrel friction but is much thicker.

#27081 New Use For Ball Valves

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 26 May 2004 - 07:49 PM in Homemades

I kinda see what your talking about. This is what I think you put, only in my words: A rod that prevents the valve from being opened, allowing the gun to be refilled. It would be attached to the valve by a hinge, allowing it to swing out of the way. So essentially it could double as a safety. Hmm. Interesting.

#27082 1500 Spupermax

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 26 May 2004 - 07:57 PM in General Nerf

With a bit of internal modification, I just figured that a SM1500 could achieve 200 feet. just add about a foot of extra tubing connecting the pump to the valve. With foot long barrels that are 1/2 inch brass, it could achieve super soaker and homemade distances with a properly (1/2 ounce) weighted micro Stefan. This is a theory. Anyone who wants to try this feel free to. You may need to pump it about a dozen times though.

Interesting. I was just opposing the fact that a SM1500 could hit 200 feet, now I'm telling a possible way to do that. I'm a hippocrit! :w00t:

#27097 Quick-reload Barrel System

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 27 May 2004 - 05:05 AM in Homemades

I thought those opened slow.

#27114 Nerf Hurts

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 27 May 2004 - 04:35 PM in General Nerf

Good idea with the padded end. I might have to do that cause I play against wusses. Even a stock RF20 hurt when they were barely in range. One is even 18 and he says it hurts. I'll have to make more darts.

As for felt, I can barely get felt tight enough around 1/2 inch backer rod in order to get it in 1/2 inch PVC. I was able to get it to fit in 3/4 inch PVC nicely though.

#27121 Arsenals

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 27 May 2004 - 05:46 PM in General Nerf

My arsenal is a bit smaller. I know some poeple will have a pages worth of a list, but I don't. Here's the lineup in order of most used to busted/not used.

-Super Soaker XP55 with cardboard barrel (15/32" ID), non-magnifying scope (accurate up to 45 feet), ten dart ammo holders, homemade ramrod (SM3k valve puller shoved onto an unsharpened pencil) and RF20 pump; painted green.
-NF (stubby modded) with Crayola breech and 1/2" of 1/2" PVC for a barrel stub; painted green.
-AT3K with Crayola barrels, removal of Goo Tube (replaced with 1.5 feet of tubing), air release valve plugged.<EDIT>Currently has one barrel, breech loaded, gets NF ranges<EDIT>
-B&A with 3/4" inch PCV barrel (for Nerf megas), spring stretched, forward handle replaced with 3/4" PVC and styrofoam, used rarely; it has no practical purpose and it sucks.
-RF20, stubby modified, clip modded, SM1500 pump added, valve instead of trigger, semi-auto valve removed, bladder bike tube modded (inner and outer), safety guard on top thing removed, used rarely; I hate full auto.<EDIT>currently not in working order. It shoots a little over ten feet and skips every fourth dart<EDIT>
-BF, top barrel disabled (busted, would let air through when pumped), no barrels at all, no pump, not in use.
-Homemade, cardboard barrel (17/32" ID), muzzle loaded, Crayola breech, double ball valve, BF pump, no endcap on tank, not in use.

#27122 Nerf Hurts

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 27 May 2004 - 05:49 PM in General Nerf

My felt is fabric. I hand sew it on. Thread holds better than glue. Even though it may be that I only have four made, the darts suck.
<EDIT>The "felt" is actually fleece. :nugget:

My bad. But still, having really powerful guns that shoot really heavy Stefans is sweet. Here's a pic of a can that had one shot from a supersoaker shooting a half ounce weighted half inch Stefan.
file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Administrator/My%20Documents/My%20Pictures/can.jpg.jpg <EDIT>

#27136 Arsenals

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 27 May 2004 - 07:09 PM in General Nerf

Wow, nerfspecialforces, you must post pics.

Cx, you have one huge pile of weaponry. 64 guns. You could arm a battalion!

My AT3K now has one barrel, it gets farther than my NF and almost as far as my Super Soaker. I might get 2 SS1s. It depends on my sister's boyfriend (he's the one that has them).

#27334 Arsenals

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 31 May 2004 - 02:15 PM in General Nerf

I don't use all of them at once. Some are for assault, others for accuracy. I will lend out a few occasionally at "wars"(I only play with about four people max). Otherwise, they are just extras in case one of the others breaks. I think that is why most people have more than six guns.

#27394 Nerf Bb Guns

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 31 May 2004 - 08:47 PM in General Nerf

I would have replied to this yesterday, but there were no computers within a mile of where I was that I could use. Anyway, all I did was use a small (half inch) piece of half inch FBR on both sides of a cluster of BB's to make my NF and supersoaker shotguns. Many people have done this before and I highly recomend it for use as a BB shotgun. If I wasn't explanetary enough, here's a diagram:
[]::::[]
[] is small section of FBR
: are BBs

6mm BBs are .24 cal. If 1/4 inch aluminum tubing is used for the barrel, there would be a .1 inch gap. That would make some powerful gun. like a maxshot, have less muzzle velocity, making it safer, in theory.

#27475 I Need A Quick And Easy Rf 20 Mod

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 01 June 2004 - 06:53 PM in Modifications

Welcom to NH, elosodemuerte. As long as you follow the Code of Conduct, you should have some help with any of your problems, or advice for new ideas, mods, etc. That's just some advice.

When you push this gun, it breaks completely. Vinyl explosions.

I don't like the sound of that. ALL of the hoses on my RF20 are exposed, and against my arm. Anyhow, you are better off with a NF for a longer range gun. Unless you want to do some extensive replacement of parts on your RF20, like hoses, barrels, bladder, pump, valves (or valve if you get rid of the select fire feature, like I did). Basically you are better off with a NF for range, but keep your stock RF20 for closer range combat. The full autoness (word?) will come in handy when if the situation gets in real close.

#27542 I Need A Quick And Easy Rf 20 Mod

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 02 June 2004 - 02:33 PM in Modifications

Unfortunately, I have put a bike tube both inside and outside of the bladder. It is quite hard to pump when the pressure gets up there. I am happy to hear that the tubes don't explode. Anyways, lets not turn the thread into RF20 disasters. It was originally about easy RF20 mods, then about the NF. We've gotten off topic twice. I'm not trying ordering anyone to go back to the original topic, because we've already covered it, and I don't have any kind of power to do that.

#27555 Yeeeeah Bitch!

Posted by GeneralPrimevil on 02 June 2004 - 05:19 PM in News

Ummm.(

)Wow. For fun? Amazing, but not unbelievable. If you like what you do, might as well do it.

This all is a bit confusing. I should ask my brother about this. He'll give me the gist of it. After all, he does this for work. It seems quite neat. I may have to get into this, just to impress friends and stuff. This probably doesn't mean anything from a firearms recognizer*, but that work is pretty damn good!

*I can identify and classify about 250 firearms, not that great, but good enough that teachers come to me. I'm not obsessed, it's just that I needed to prove a few people wrong, so I got into it.

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