All I did was take a new pump plug it and put it in.

Hey everybody,

I recently salvaged my Airtech 3000 that had been commissioned by RyanMcNumbers. A while back one my friends had tweaked the pump in a way that whenever I pumped it, no air would be pressurized into the tank. I replaced the old Hornet pump with a new one and can now fire the gun again, however it now takes 10 pumps to achieve the same pressure as when before it only required about 4. My theories are that my friend has previously slightly over pumped it or that there is a leak somewhere. Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance.

Thanks for the advice Exo I'll certainly take it!

Although that is cool, it is not the type of paint job I was describing (which is my fault for being too loose in the description). I was referring more to:

Hello everyone,

I'm not the most advanced modder so to speak yet I do take a strong interest in looking around the forums and modding my own guns to my ability. Recently my friends and I have been debating on what color to paint our longshot and with what paint? The popular decision is to go with classic only spray paint methods. I on the other hand find it to plain and fancy the hand painting worn out look (similar to dry brush). It's hard to explain the exact look I'm describing but if any of you are familiar with DirectThreat's work he is a good example of the work I've been describing. Now I have done dry brushing before and spray painting and a few decals with the old games workshop paint and was wondering if there are any guides/videos on how to attain this style and if the new citadel paint on games workshop would be useful. Any feedback would be helpful! Thanks in advance.

Nice. I'll check it out tomorrow because nothing is open now.

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You could probably pick up a digital camera with recording capabilities for that much. My mom's cost $60, and the quality isn't too bad.

yeah I have one but if I break it I'm screwed.

True, but a camcorder could break just as easily, and it costs more. If you're willing to give up quality for price, a digital camera would work the best.

Okay I'll check out radio schack.

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You could probably pick up a digital camera with recording capabilities for that much. My mom's cost $60, and the quality isn't too bad.

yeah I have one but if I break it I'm screwed.

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The Sony HD Bloggie is small and works great, and the lens can flip in any direction. Should work well.

I was looking for something a bit cheaper and possibly smaller.

I'm looking for a camera that you would be able to either mount on top or beneath my gun. It would also be able to be easily transfered on to my computer for editing. Also the lowest price would be best. I've already checked out Angel's glasses cam but that is a little much. Any links or thougths would be helpful.

I'm sorry to say Zack, your face looks pretty messed up in this pic...








This pic would look more awesome if It was just a few inches higher and less blurry

Nice job deadshooter, sorry my crew had to leave early we had a great time!

Great can't wait for the war.

Unless it's obvious standard when does was end? When everyone is tired?

My crew is in and it'll be +4 or +5

Will anyone be selling darts at the war?

Me +3 are all maybes.

I know how angel breeches work. My longshot has one. You just said you glued it into the dart chamber, and I'm guessing this is the same part labeled dart chamber in CS's pic. If so, then yes, that was really stupid, but easily undo-able.

I dipped it in boiling water, and now it's fixed ,but Tantum in an Angel Breech you glue the left part of the breech into the Chamber.

Ooooh, I know what you're talking about now. Why would you glue your barrel into that? So much easier/lower risk to glue it into the faux barrel, which is easily replaceable with other pipes.

But honestly, same thing applies. It's fucking gorrilla glue on brass. It can't be that hard. Have your dad help if you can't do it.

That's not how Angel breeches work. The barrel is on the left.

It's the chamber there is no bolt it's the brass barrel gorilla glued into the dart chamber. Chamber

So am I totally screwed over or is there a bit of hope? If there is no hope I'd like to buy a dart chamber please anyone got one?

At this point I'm more interested in saving the dart chamber for a singled longshot. Any tips?

Heat will loosen the super glue. I've used a heat gun and pliers. Heat everything up, and then grab the bolt nub and twist.

Would blowdryer/oven/microwave do any good? I don't have a heat gun.

It's the far left piece in the internals, where in an angel breech you glue in your barrel and breech lip.

No one answered how long to freeze, if it won't do anything than it doesn't matter.

But its inside the dart chamber so I can't reach it. Any other suggestions would be helpful.

Gorrilla glue is stronger than most plastic. I recommend a hammer.

So can I not do anything with my longshot now that my dart chamber is welded to a piece of brass?

First try nail polish remover.

I know it's much more gravitated to paint removal, but I've had luck at least loosening super glue. And it's relatively plastic-safe.

And try dipping it in boiling water.

The kind of nail polish remover you want would be pure acetone. Which is not plastic safe, it will start to dissolve it, but as long as you try to keep it away from plastic and quickly remove any acetone that does come in contact with the plastic, you should be fine.

I haven't tried it myself, but I remember a model-making tutorial on Games Workshop's site that mentioned putting the pieces into the freezer to make the superglue brittle before trying to seperate them.

I can imagine the outcome of that.
Roommate: Why the fuck is some metal and plastic in the freezer!
You: Um, It's my angel breech.
Roommate: Then why is it in the fridge?
That would be a intresting conversation.

Wow that was not the least bit funny.

Wouldn't putting it in the freezer significantly shrink the brass? Just wondering before I try it.

No. Not significantly. Besides, don't you want it to come off?

True. How long should I keep it in overnight our just an hour?

You said you used Gorilla glue correct? If so I dont think freezing it will do much, try dipping it in boiling water.

Not that it matters any more but will that completely trash the plastic?

First try nail polish remover.

I know it's much more gravitated to paint removal, but I've had luck at least loosening super glue. And it's relatively plastic-safe.

And try dipping it in boiling water.

The kind of nail polish remover you want would be pure acetone. Which is not plastic safe, it will start to dissolve it, but as long as you try to keep it away from plastic and quickly remove any acetone that does come in contact with the plastic, you should be fine.

I haven't tried it myself, but I remember a model-making tutorial on Games Workshop's site that mentioned putting the pieces into the freezer to make the superglue brittle before trying to seperate them.

I can imagine the outcome of that.
Roommate: Why the fuck is some metal and plastic in the freezer!
You: Um, It's my angel breech.
Roommate: Then why is it in the fridge?
That would be a intresting conversation.

Wow that was not the least bit funny.

Wouldn't putting it in the freezer significantly shrink the brass? Just wondering before I try it.

No. Not significantly. Besides, don't you want it to come off?

True. How long should I keep it in overnight our just an hour?

I haven't tried it myself, but I remember a model-making tutorial on Games Workshop's site that mentioned putting the pieces into the freezer to make the superglue brittle before trying to seperate them.

I can imagine the outcome of that.
Roommate: Why the fuck is some metal and plastic in the freezer!
You: Um, It's my angel breech.
Roommate: Then why is it in the fridge?
That would be a intresting conversation.

Wow that was not the least bit funny.

Wouldn't putting it in the freezer significantly shrink the brass? Just wondering before I try it.

There's no solvent you can use that will selectively remove only the super glue. Whatever will dissolve super glue, will also dissolve the plastic parts.

Should I just single the Longshot then? If so I'll need an additional spring if someone wants to sell me one.

Gorilla glue? Thats some heavy duty stuff. Your best bet is to Dremel/Sand or use a razor blade to get it out.

How do you dremel it if its connected on the inside of the dart chamber?

I am currently working on an Angel Breech and came across the problem that the left part of my breech was to far to the right (the lip was protruding). I foolishly didn't check before I super glued it into the dart chamber with Gorilla Glue (I don't recommend, It foams). Therefore, i was wondering how I can remove the left part of the breech from the dart chamber.
Thanks

All pa nerfers that get the morning call look in the buisness section of sundays paper!


http://thegridcode.com/

SWEET, can't wait to host a war there.

The pin may be stuck out or a piece of debris may have gotten into the seal. When I measured my 2k I got 1 1/4" from the end of the pin to the first part of the tank. If possible, you could visually check the seal to see if it is closing fully. You could also listen or feel if any air is leaking out the front when you pump. If the pin is stuck out, try gently pushing it towards the front of the tank to see if it is just sticky or really stuck.

Mine is 1 1/4 too so thats not the problem everything is working fine except when I pump there is no pressure it just lides through as there was nothing connected to it. I Don't see any leaks is this a check valve problem? If, so can someone link a chcek valve of the correct diameter and how to replace?
Thanks

You may not need a new check valve. If you move the pump rod and there is no pressure buildup at all, you should check the seal in the pump. Something may have gotten out of place or the o-ring may have broken. In this case, you should see if something can be adjusted or get a new o-ring. If you can generate one pump of pressure and the pump rod is pushed out, the check valve is likely broken. You could attempt to fix the check valve by carefully cutting open the very back of the pump tube, repositioning the rubber diaphragm, and gluing the whole thing back together. You could also buy a check valve like item 7757K11 on McMaster-Carr. If the tubing I.D. is 3/16" rather than 1/8", go with item 7757K12. The easiest method to add in the check valve would be to cut the tubing leading from the pump so the end will fit entirely over the barb, and push both ends of the tubing on.

I'll check the seal it seemed fine I didn't hear and leaks ,but is it possible for the air tanks pin to be stuck in the release position? Because mine seems to be out a bit and you can only pull it out a small amount. Could this be why the air is building up because its just flowing out the barrel?

Same thing happened to me. It is for sure your check valve. I got a new one at Advanced Auto parts for 5$.

Great and if I get a new one how do I replace it to I need to dismantle my pump tube?

Yesterday, I was using my 2k knowing that over 4 pupms was dangerous to the gun. Then I pumped it three times and then fired. THe next shot did not hold pressure the pump would just slide wihtout building air pressure. I opened it up to see nothing wrong with the leaks ,but am wondering if I broke the back of the pump shaft because it seems to be a bit cracked. Did I break the overpressure valve? Pics if necessary.
Thanks!