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At2k Help/fix

Broken At2k

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#1 NerfBounty

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Posted 19 February 2010 - 06:28 PM

Yesterday, I was using my 2k knowing that over 4 pupms was dangerous to the gun. Then I pumped it three times and then fired. THe next shot did not hold pressure the pump would just slide wihtout building air pressure. I opened it up to see nothing wrong with the leaks ,but am wondering if I broke the back of the pump shaft because it seems to be a bit cracked. Did I break the overpressure valve? Pics if necessary.
Thanks!
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#2 Whisper101

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Posted 19 February 2010 - 06:33 PM

Pics are generally a good ideea for help threads. I think it may be your check valve. It the little rubber diaphragm that keeps the air in the tank when you pump it, usually situated in the back of the pump tube. Did you plug the pump? Did you leave 1/8"? I',m just repreaching what Just Some Bob says...
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#3 Hi Yah

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Posted 19 February 2010 - 07:23 PM

If the pump is plugged the lump of hot glue might have busted your check valve.
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#4 ultimatenerf 320

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Posted 19 February 2010 - 07:29 PM

Same thing happened to me. It is for sure your check valve. I got a new one at Advanced Auto parts for 5$.
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#5 NerfBounty

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Posted 19 February 2010 - 10:58 PM

Same thing happened to me. It is for sure your check valve. I got a new one at Advanced Auto parts for 5$.

Great and if I get a new one how do I replace it to I need to dismantle my pump tube?
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#6 Darth Freyr

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Posted 19 February 2010 - 11:20 PM

You may not need a new check valve. If you move the pump rod and there is no pressure buildup at all, you should check the seal in the pump. Something may have gotten out of place or the o-ring may have broken. In this case, you should see if something can be adjusted or get a new o-ring. If you can generate one pump of pressure and the pump rod is pushed out, the check valve is likely broken. You could attempt to fix the check valve by carefully cutting open the very back of the pump tube, repositioning the rubber diaphragm, and gluing the whole thing back together. You could also buy a check valve like item 7757K11 on McMaster-Carr. If the tubing I.D. is 3/16" rather than 1/8", go with item 7757K12. The easiest method to add in the check valve would be to cut the tubing leading from the pump so the end will fit entirely over the barb, and push both ends of the tubing on.
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#7 NerfBounty

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Posted 19 February 2010 - 11:31 PM

You may not need a new check valve. If you move the pump rod and there is no pressure buildup at all, you should check the seal in the pump. Something may have gotten out of place or the o-ring may have broken. In this case, you should see if something can be adjusted or get a new o-ring. If you can generate one pump of pressure and the pump rod is pushed out, the check valve is likely broken. You could attempt to fix the check valve by carefully cutting open the very back of the pump tube, repositioning the rubber diaphragm, and gluing the whole thing back together. You could also buy a check valve like item 7757K11 on McMaster-Carr. If the tubing I.D. is 3/16" rather than 1/8", go with item 7757K12. The easiest method to add in the check valve would be to cut the tubing leading from the pump so the end will fit entirely over the barb, and push both ends of the tubing on.

I'll check the seal it seemed fine I didn't hear and leaks ,but is it possible for the air tanks pin to be stuck in the release position? Because mine seems to be out a bit and you can only pull it out a small amount. Could this be why the air is building up because its just flowing out the barrel?
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#8 Darth Freyr

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Posted 20 February 2010 - 12:36 AM

The pin may be stuck out or a piece of debris may have gotten into the seal. When I measured my 2k I got 1 1/4" from the end of the pin to the first part of the tank. If possible, you could visually check the seal to see if it is closing fully. You could also listen or feel if any air is leaking out the front when you pump. If the pin is stuck out, try gently pushing it towards the front of the tank to see if it is just sticky or really stuck.
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#9 NerfBounty

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Posted 20 February 2010 - 09:56 AM

The pin may be stuck out or a piece of debris may have gotten into the seal. When I measured my 2k I got 1 1/4" from the end of the pin to the first part of the tank. If possible, you could visually check the seal to see if it is closing fully. You could also listen or feel if any air is leaking out the front when you pump. If the pin is stuck out, try gently pushing it towards the front of the tank to see if it is just sticky or really stuck.

Mine is 1 1/4 too so thats not the problem everything is working fine except when I pump there is no pressure it just lides through as there was nothing connected to it. I Don't see any leaks is this a check valve problem? If, so can someone link a chcek valve of the correct diameter and how to replace?
Thanks
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#10 Darth Freyr

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Posted 20 February 2010 - 11:04 AM

If you can generate one pump of pressure and the pump rod is pushed out, the check valve is likely broken. You could attempt to fix the check valve by carefully cutting open the very back of the pump tube, repositioning the rubber diaphragm, and gluing the whole thing back together. You could also buy a check valve like item 7757K11 on McMaster-Carr. If the tubing I.D. is 3/16" rather than 1/8", go with item 7757K12. The easiest method to add in the check valve would be to cut the tubing leading from the pump so the end will fit entirely over the barb, and push both ends of the tubing on.

Even if the pin is 1 1/4" out, check if air is leaking out of the front. I don't know what the I.D. of 2k tubing is. Maybe you could edit this question into the subtitle of this thread. If when you push the pump, you can generate some pressure, even a tiny bit, and nothing else is leaking, I think the check valve must be shot. Once you know the I.D. of 2k tubing, go to McMaster-Carr. If the I.D. is 1/8", type 7757K11 into the search box and click find. If the I.D. is 3/16", type 7757K12 into the search box and click find. Continue with the McMaster-Carr checkout. Be warned, i'm pretty sure the minimum for shipping is $5, so buy the check valve locally if possible. Once you get your check valve, measure the length of one barb (the very end of the barb to the beginning of the body). Add 1/4" to this length. Cut that far away from the start of the yellow tubing. Insert the barb closer to the start of the arrow on the body of the check valve into the part of the yellow tubing closer to the pump. Insert the other barb into the other end of the tubing. If necessary, glue the tubing on to prevent leaks. Read this thread and this thread to see if your question is answered better.
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#11 2iko

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Posted 20 February 2010 - 02:56 PM

Sounds more like you broke the OPRV in the pump handle rather than the check valve in the pump.

Edited by 2iko, 20 February 2010 - 02:56 PM.

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