I'll be damned. Never would have guess the skeet shoot looks like that...
And Janga...was that some kind of racially-fueled remark for the soul purpose of showing your hatred towards native americans? *pulls out knife. . .h2h knife*
serpent sniper's Content
There have been 190 items by serpent sniper (Search limited from 30-January 97)
#18805 Xxl Gun
Posted by
on 11 February 2004 - 09:37 PM
in
Modifications
#200128 Xbox Live Recreational Community House ---
Posted by
on 31 December 2008 - 11:09 PM
in
Off Topic
Tag: ErraticBullet
Games:
Gears 2 (when I feel like dealing with the appalling match-making system)
COD4
Halo 3 (seldom)
Forza 2 (very seldom, I love the game, I'm just not as good as other drivers)
offline games:
Fallout (amazing)
Castle Crashers (worth the price if you've got a few friends for co-op)
Really I don't play on live that much. My floor-mates are all very into system-link gears games, so that's where I get my fill of multiplayer.
Games:
Gears 2 (when I feel like dealing with the appalling match-making system)
COD4
Halo 3 (seldom)
Forza 2 (very seldom, I love the game, I'm just not as good as other drivers)
offline games:
Fallout (amazing)
Castle Crashers (worth the price if you've got a few friends for co-op)
Really I don't play on live that much. My floor-mates are all very into system-link gears games, so that's where I get my fill of multiplayer.
#3758 X-stream Max Shot
Posted by
on 21 April 2003 - 07:03 PM
in
Off Topic
Your local TRU. Duh. 
#3861 X*stream Modification
Posted by
on 23 April 2003 - 05:25 PM
in
Modifications
I'm hoping that you're relating to the lnl misfiring and not the...(My LNL tends to misfire like a 13 year old spankin off to Pam Anderson)
I know exactly what you mean...
#14834 Wtf?
Posted by
on 21 December 2003 - 09:09 PM
in
Off Topic
Well...uhh...since this topic is entitled "WTF?" I figure that this post isn't off topic too much. What the fuck is this? Don't click unless you are ready for the consequences... Seriously, I am gonna have nightmares... I mean, is that some sort of shaven sasquatch, or deformed man? I just have this picture of that thing going around in my house while I'm asleep. Christ.
#170100 Worst Nerf Gun Ever!
Posted by
on 17 August 2008 - 08:13 PM
in
General Nerf
I dunno about the worst, but the stinger was awkward at best.
I remember getting one, and playing around with it for a few days. I intended to mod it, but I think I just threw it out.
I remember getting one, and playing around with it for a few days. I intended to mod it, but I think I just threw it out.
#171298 Worst Gun Ever P2
Posted by
on 21 August 2008 - 03:46 PM
in
General Nerf
Let me understand this...
Since OMC and Forsaken posted in the topic before it was locked, that gives you the idea that it would be a good thing to make a clone topic of one that was deemed by the administrators to be a waste of bandwidth?
We'll see where this gets you.
Since OMC and Forsaken posted in the topic before it was locked, that gives you the idea that it would be a good thing to make a clone topic of one that was deemed by the administrators to be a waste of bandwidth?
We'll see where this gets you.
#11927 Which Do You Prefer?
Posted by
on 26 October 2003 - 11:08 AM
in
Off Topic
Bwahahahahaha! He got pwnz3d...badly....Pour the sand outta' your vag'.
...NINJA!
#14602 What To Get A 7 Year Old Kid?
Posted by
on 18 December 2003 - 05:04 PM
in
Off Topic
WAS?!Lego was awesome.
#163581 What Makes A Good Battlefield?
Posted by
on 21 July 2008 - 04:09 PM
in
Nerf Wars
I agree with mintee, there is a lot of fun to be had indoors.
The only place I play is in the dorms at school. It's really a suitcase college, so the buildings are more or less empty on Saturdays. Dorm buildings really have everything. There are lots of tight corners, choke points, and other places for ambushes. There are also huge open areas, 200ft hallways, and open lounge areas with low cover.
I think that indoor environments are really very versatile. I've had to diversify my arsenal to keep up, and it seems like I use different guns each time we play. It's very fun to run around clearing rooms and staircases SWAT style.
The only place I play is in the dorms at school. It's really a suitcase college, so the buildings are more or less empty on Saturdays. Dorm buildings really have everything. There are lots of tight corners, choke points, and other places for ambushes. There are also huge open areas, 200ft hallways, and open lounge areas with low cover.
I think that indoor environments are really very versatile. I've had to diversify my arsenal to keep up, and it seems like I use different guns each time we play. It's very fun to run around clearing rooms and staircases SWAT style.
#169313 What Kind Of Stefan Do You Use?
Posted by
on 14 August 2008 - 11:16 PM
in
General Nerf
I USALLY YELL EVRYTHING ON TEH INTERNETS!!
(Tannman, check the CoC, part of it states that capitalization should be used correctly)
My stefans are 1.5 inch, grey Caulk Sav'r, 3/0 splitshot, pillow case and hair dryer straightened, small dome of hotglue on top, no hole.
(Tannman, check the CoC, part of it states that capitalization should be used correctly)
My stefans are 1.5 inch, grey Caulk Sav'r, 3/0 splitshot, pillow case and hair dryer straightened, small dome of hotglue on top, no hole.
#167174 What Backgrounds Do You Use?
Posted by
on 07 August 2008 - 03:51 PM
in
Off Topic
I've been using this off and on for a while.
#170837 Weird Barrel Issue
Posted by
on 20 August 2008 - 12:19 AM
in
General Nerf
It could just be that your darts are too small for your barrel.
I had an AT2k that I was running with a crayola and pvc setup for stock micros. Most of the time it shot like a beast, but regularly, a dart would become folded over in the pvc.
Look for a barrel material that allows the smallest amount of space around the darts.
I had an AT2k that I was running with a crayola and pvc setup for stock micros. Most of the time it shot like a beast, but regularly, a dart would become folded over in the pvc.
Look for a barrel material that allows the smallest amount of space around the darts.
#201000 Vulcan Gears Of War Paintjob
Posted by
on 04 January 2009 - 03:35 AM
in
General Nerf
Boom - Are you serious? You haven't seen Delish's Dead Space gun, or his Warhammer Pistol, apparently.
Anyways, cool gun. You've added wear in all the right places though, looks very Gearsy. I like the milsurp ammo box, but I dunno how I feel about the rest of the OD on the gun. Personally, I would do some additional drybrushing, not to add wear, but to highlight some areas using a darker metallic color. Maybe drybrush on some of the more dynamic surfaces to break up the monotony and make it pop.
Anyways, cool gun. You've added wear in all the right places though, looks very Gearsy. I like the milsurp ammo box, but I dunno how I feel about the rest of the OD on the gun. Personally, I would do some additional drybrushing, not to add wear, but to highlight some areas using a darker metallic color. Maybe drybrush on some of the more dynamic surfaces to break up the monotony and make it pop.
#163771 Ultimator Missle Problems
Posted by
on 22 July 2008 - 07:38 PM
in
General Nerf
You pretty much answered your own question. If they're unusable then the value can only increase by making them usable.
An ultimator missile isn't some kind of antique. Glue some craft foam fins on it, you won't ruin the patina.
An ultimator missile isn't some kind of antique. Glue some craft foam fins on it, you won't ruin the patina.
#5488 Two Towers Crossbow
Posted by
on 09 June 2003 - 08:31 PM
in
General Nerf
No, it shoots 10^99 times farther when cocked half way..... 
#164182 The Vulcan: Internals And Mods! New Mods Pg.9!
Posted by
on 24 July 2008 - 04:56 PM
in
Modifications
Does the 50 round chain fit into the ammo box?
#165281 The Vulcan: Internals And Mods! New Mods Pg.9!
Posted by
on 29 July 2008 - 09:35 PM
in
Modifications
Seems like you're familiar with airsoft. Here's what I've been wondering. People have been buying custom MOSFETs for 3 rd burst and stuff. I've been wondering the whole time, anyone think that MOSFET could replace the stock electronics to give it auto and burst settings?Try switching out the Tamiya wire connectors with "Deans Ultras". People use them in airsoft, and they work GREAT for me!
I love the vulcan! Airsoft batteries FTW!
Select fire capabilities combined with the use of airsoft battery packs may get me to buy one of these. Though electrical work beyond soldering is a little beyond me.
#165077 The Snapbow, Updated
Posted by
on 29 July 2008 - 01:14 AM
in
Homemades
Impressive. I must say, a bit funny looking, but form follows function.
#15611 The Crossbow
Posted by
on 03 January 2004 - 06:59 PM
in
Off Topic
Thats cool. Nerf better make some xbows like that...*sigh* I love sci-fi weaponry... 
#171546 The Chimera (titan Rifle)
Posted by
on 22 August 2008 - 01:42 PM
in
Modifications
Nice, I've been wondering about these since they got so much buzz in the Apoc thread.
Looks a little hard to pump. The breach is cool, I think it would be a beast with shotgun shells too.
Looks a little hard to pump. The breach is cool, I think it would be a beast with shotgun shells too.
#171823 The Chilibow
Posted by
on 23 August 2008 - 05:17 PM
in
Modifications
Nice.
I'm glad you were able to get a barrel on the 750 with it being cut down as much as it was.
As for the plunger head, why not search for a new o-ring?
I'm glad you were able to get a barrel on the 750 with it being cut down as much as it was.
As for the plunger head, why not search for a new o-ring?
#15861 Testing Height
Posted by
on 06 January 2004 - 04:20 PM
in
Modifications
sig-worthy.
But yeah, a set height to test from is a great idea...
...or at least people could tell what height they were shooting at if they don't like the metric system.
Anyways, interseting post C, I never knew height had that much effect on range.
#15827 Testing Height
Posted by
on 05 January 2004 - 09:38 PM
in
Modifications
Umm waspy... you realise that that post was made by famine, right? Its not often that one should take him seriously...
#3863 Tenchu 3
Posted by
on 23 April 2003 - 05:36 PM
in
Off Topic
You mean Tenchu 2? Thats the one that came out recently, isn't it?
#277385 Talos
Posted by
on 10 June 2010 - 07:45 PM
in
Modifications
Not meant sarcastically, of course.
#163264 Steampunk Rfr
Posted by
on 18 July 2008 - 06:52 PM
in
Modifications
What sort of paint did you use for them? The same as the gun? Does the paint affect range?
I just used some silver spraypaint on them, nothing special. I don't think that it affects the range, but I've just been eyeballing it.
EDIT: I finally bothered to get some official ranges. Distances were measured in my basement, with an antique yard stick no less (thats just how committed to the Steampunk genre I am, also it was the closest measuring device). I'm glad to say that they are better than what I had been estimating.
Ranges from shortest to longest, one magazine worth, there was 2 feet of ground skipping on average for the furthest darts.
9'
12'
19' 8"
26'
26'
29'
Range - 20 ft (I'm not sure why it varies so much)
Average - 20.29 ft
So, it's a little bit better than I had been estimating. It's undeniably an RFR though. I'd like to add that the posts in the shells HAVE been removed
#163138 Steampunk Rfr
Posted by
on 17 July 2008 - 07:50 PM
in
Modifications
So, I was pretty impressed with the stuff OS1, or professor Shagnasty was putting out. I wanted to try it out for myself. I had an RFR lying around, so I figured rather than not being able to sell it here, with some time and paint, I could make a decent amount for it on ebay. Anyways, pics:
I hand painted it all with Citadel (aka warhammer) paints. It took probably eight or nine hours in total. This was over the course of a week. It's not modded, and still gets RFR ranges (i.e. terrible). I'm pretty happy with it though. I set out to create a steampunk nerf gun and it didn't turn out to be a pile of shit. I'd really love to hear everybody's comments. Also, it's up on eBay. *wink*
I forgot to mention, it's called the L.A.R. 6 for lever action rifle 6. As you can see it's painted on the mag along with "pax in terra" latin for peace on earth.
I hand painted it all with Citadel (aka warhammer) paints. It took probably eight or nine hours in total. This was over the course of a week. It's not modded, and still gets RFR ranges (i.e. terrible). I'm pretty happy with it though. I set out to create a steampunk nerf gun and it didn't turn out to be a pile of shit. I'd really love to hear everybody's comments. Also, it's up on eBay. *wink*
I forgot to mention, it's called the L.A.R. 6 for lever action rifle 6. As you can see it's painted on the mag along with "pax in terra" latin for peace on earth.
#163421 Steampunk Rfr
Posted by
on 20 July 2008 - 01:30 PM
in
Modifications
For those of you that are using Warhammer paint, I have a question. I went to Games Workshop a few days ago to buy paint and the guy asked me what I was going to paint, I said, "a toy gun," and he told me that, "Our paint isn't good for those type of things because the oils in your hand will make our paint wear out faster because our paint is water based." (Of course that's a summarized version) Then he asked me, "what're going to paint again? a NERF GUN ...so I'm thinking that he knows alot of people go there to buy paint for nerf guns... Anyways, he told me to buy "Enamel Spray Paint" and that it's only $1 at Wal-Mart (it actually was $1-5 depending on the brand...) so I bought this spray paint and put masking tape on parts of my gun, painted it, let it dry etc. My first gun that I painted was a tech target (that I bought modded, it was really good) and when I was finished painting (that includes a whole day of drying) the range decreased dramatically, most of the time, it wouldn't even shoot, i'm not sure if banding it will help or not but anyways:
Hmm, well I'm not sure why the guy was so against making a sale. Any paint is going to come off of something that's handled a lot. With a good clear coat that shouldn't make a huge difference.
Here is my question:
Do you think that the enamel paint decreased my range?
(And yes, I did paint the gun intact, and I painted the cocking mechanism...maybe I shouldn't have done that, but hey, it was my first paint job)
I would bet that it was the paint on the cocking mech. If you still have the gun, try some silicon spray on it.
P.s. Also, concerning the Warhammer paint, when you paint the primer, then paint over that, do you use the sealant (the guy at Games Workshop said, you should paint with the primer, paint the color you want it to be and then paint the sealant, which he also said, "is alot more expensive, because the primer is about this much, then paint is about $3 a pot [and I know that 1 pot can't paint a whole gun, you might need more depending on the gun] and then you have to buy the sealant," and compared to $5 enamel spray paint...that seems way more expensive)
So my questions are: Do you actually use the sealant, or do you just use the primer, then paint over it?
And if you don't use the sealant, does the paint come off (in any specific areas, e.g. the handle because your hand is there...or the hand grip or the stock etc.)
A couple things; I don't use the Citadel clear coat or primer. I do on miniatures, but for this gun I primed it with Rustoleum ultra flat black. And used Krylon gloss clear coat. I painted a longshot with just enamel spray paint and after a few games the paint was coming off of the edges of the handle. Any way you paint a gun, you should use clear coat. (not sure about vinyl dye)
Also, one pot WILL paint a whole gun. The paint really goes a long way. If you were doing a gun in one solid color, you could probably paint say 2 mavericks, or 3 nitefinders with one pot for an example.
Nice MrDelish! Ooh ooh, lemme guess, dark angels green, shining gold, and chainmail?
#163374 Steampunk Rfr
Posted by
on 20 July 2008 - 12:46 AM
in
Modifications
Thanks FA, I'm surprised to get compliments from people who don't like steampunk. I really value everyone's input.
I'm wondering, I have a few other guns that I'm planning on at least painting. Would anybody be interested in a writeup or maybe even video that goes over how to do some of the techniques I used? I know there was some interest on how I painted it on the first page.
Let me know if you want me to put something together, and specifically what you would like to be explained. I'm happy to share what I know.
I'm wondering, I have a few other guns that I'm planning on at least painting. Would anybody be interested in a writeup or maybe even video that goes over how to do some of the techniques I used? I know there was some interest on how I painted it on the first page.
Let me know if you want me to put something together, and specifically what you would like to be explained. I'm happy to share what I know.
#163178 Steampunk Rfr
Posted by
on 18 July 2008 - 12:07 AM
in
Modifications
Nerfsharpie - warhammer paints are about $2.50 ish for a small jar. The paint goes a long way though. I used to get them at Hobbytown USA, but they stopped carrying them. Gaming stores probably have them. Of course the internets do too.
ballistic - I used regular whistling darts that I cut down and spraypainted silver. The clockwork thing is umm, some clockwork. I yanked the guts out of a clock. Some of the other stuff I used was an antique camera flash handle, and part of the Jango Fett nerf gun (finally a use for that POS)
Thanks again for the comments guys, I wasn't expecting such a positive reception.
ballistic - I used regular whistling darts that I cut down and spraypainted silver. The clockwork thing is umm, some clockwork. I yanked the guts out of a clock. Some of the other stuff I used was an antique camera flash handle, and part of the Jango Fett nerf gun (finally a use for that POS)
Thanks again for the comments guys, I wasn't expecting such a positive reception.
#163639 Steampunk Rfr
Posted by
on 21 July 2008 - 10:40 PM
in
Modifications
Ah, thanks dude. I've been waiting for your feedback.
The one thing that I like about the Citadel paints is that I can control the viscosity by how much water I add. The other thing is, I don't know how inks will interact with enamels. The inks really give things a richer color, and I'm not sure I could paint as well with other paints. Citadel paints are what I am used to.
I am a little worried now about the whole lube thing. I've been using silicon spray, and I hope that it doesn't have any ill effects. That never really occurred to me how lube and paint might react. I figured that everything was fine if it was clear coated.
And I do admit to cutting some corners on prep. In retrospect, I wish I had sanded the warnings off.
I'm starting on a Maverick soon. Now I'm not sure whether to continue using Citadel paints or enamels. As a side note, I wish I could find little gizmos and doo-dads that are as cool as yours. I was really impressed by the 42K.
The one thing that I like about the Citadel paints is that I can control the viscosity by how much water I add. The other thing is, I don't know how inks will interact with enamels. The inks really give things a richer color, and I'm not sure I could paint as well with other paints. Citadel paints are what I am used to.
I am a little worried now about the whole lube thing. I've been using silicon spray, and I hope that it doesn't have any ill effects. That never really occurred to me how lube and paint might react. I figured that everything was fine if it was clear coated.
And I do admit to cutting some corners on prep. In retrospect, I wish I had sanded the warnings off.
I'm starting on a Maverick soon. Now I'm not sure whether to continue using Citadel paints or enamels. As a side note, I wish I could find little gizmos and doo-dads that are as cool as yours. I was really impressed by the 42K.
#163155 Steampunk Rfr
Posted by
on 17 July 2008 - 09:13 PM
in
Modifications
Thanks for the comments guys.
Gears - for the wood grain I sprayed it with black to prime it. Then I used a large smooth brush to lay down streaks of Scorched Brown. Then I went back to add midtones with Bestial Brown, and highlights with Vermin Brown. After that I applied a light wash of chestnut ink, wiping it away with a paper towel. After that I added some more highlights.
I'm happy to share any painting techniques with everybody. So feel free to ask.
Anyways I'm hoping that I get more than 40 bucks, which is roughly what it cost.
Gears - for the wood grain I sprayed it with black to prime it. Then I used a large smooth brush to lay down streaks of Scorched Brown. Then I went back to add midtones with Bestial Brown, and highlights with Vermin Brown. After that I applied a light wash of chestnut ink, wiping it away with a paper towel. After that I added some more highlights.
I'm happy to share any painting techniques with everybody. So feel free to ask.
Anyways I'm hoping that I get more than 40 bucks, which is roughly what it cost.
#163162 Steampunk Rfr
Posted by
on 17 July 2008 - 09:43 PM
in
Modifications
Thanks Carbon.
The barrel was primed with black. Using a stiff brush I dabbed it with a coat of Dwarf Bronze. Then I added highlights with Shining Gold. Then I applied a wash of chesnut ink, wiping it away with paper towels. I added a few more highlights with Chainmail and Mithril Silver. Then I gave it a wash of Yellow ink, followed by a few more highlights with bronze and gold.
The shells were simpler. A black base coat with Shining Gold dabbed on with a stiff brush. Added some highlights of Dwarf Bronze. Yellow ink wash. Then a few more highlights.
I highly recommend Citadel paints. They are fairly expensive, but they have a very workable consistency that allows you to create textures. The paint also covers well, and I really didn't have to use that much to paint the whole gun.
EDIT:
Well, here's a mini write up banshee. I have plans to paint / customize and mod a maverick, so maybe I'll do a writeup.
Vacc - The shells have stood up to abuse. I have tested the gun a bunch of times, and they haven't been scratched from falling on to the floor. There's some wear on the mag, and on the inside of the gun. I didn't give those much of a clear coat since I didn't want to gum up the workings.
The barrel was primed with black. Using a stiff brush I dabbed it with a coat of Dwarf Bronze. Then I added highlights with Shining Gold. Then I applied a wash of chesnut ink, wiping it away with paper towels. I added a few more highlights with Chainmail and Mithril Silver. Then I gave it a wash of Yellow ink, followed by a few more highlights with bronze and gold.
The shells were simpler. A black base coat with Shining Gold dabbed on with a stiff brush. Added some highlights of Dwarf Bronze. Yellow ink wash. Then a few more highlights.
I highly recommend Citadel paints. They are fairly expensive, but they have a very workable consistency that allows you to create textures. The paint also covers well, and I really didn't have to use that much to paint the whole gun.
EDIT:
Well, here's a mini write up banshee. I have plans to paint / customize and mod a maverick, so maybe I'll do a writeup.
Vacc - The shells have stood up to abuse. I have tested the gun a bunch of times, and they haven't been scratched from falling on to the floor. There's some wear on the mag, and on the inside of the gun. I didn't give those much of a clear coat since I didn't want to gum up the workings.
#163214 Steampunk Rfr
Posted by
on 18 July 2008 - 01:19 PM
in
Modifications
I love the gun, but I have a question... Are those painted sonic microa?
Yes.
Nerfsharpie - They are sort of expensive. From my experience, Testors paints are harder to use. They are much more watery than Citadel. I don't think you could achieve some of the same textures, but I'm not sure. I haven't used Testors in years. They might have a wider array of umm "gun-ly" colors.
#166875 Steampunk Mav Mod
Posted by
on 06 August 2008 - 04:30 PM
in
Modifications
Let me offer some advice. I'm no Professor Shagnasty, but I've made a good money from my two guns. If OS1 were here, he'd say the same thing.
PREP WORK! The key is prep work.
This gun was clearly not prepped. The glue and most noticeably the paintjob are well, at best very rudimentary. If you took some time, sanded the warnings and logos off, sprayed a smooth coat of primer, and planned out your design, it would be much better.
To me, it looks like you had no real plan of attack. You thought on a whim to make a "steampunk" gun and then did it in an hour. I plan my guns out. I draw an initial sketch. Then I go out and look for parts. When I have a selection of cosmetic add-ons, I draw the gun again, reflecting the parts that I have.
Second, you need to plan your paintjob. You need to decide on a color palette that works. I recommend 3 or 4 colors. Pick one to be the main color, one or two for the other parts, and one for the accents. This white or grey color is not really associated with steampunk. Try something gold, bronze, brass, copper, silver, gunmetal, or even wood. These are the kinds of colors that are what make something steampunk. Remember, steampunk is the alternative reality where modern technology is created through Victorian means. Think about what something from the Victorian era is made of. Some kind of metal or wood.
Lastly, if you're doing cosmetic mods, you need to think of aesthetics. Maybe the gun looks awesome to you, if so then you've succeeded. Personally, I find it very unbalanced. The barrels look small and offset in comparison to the body of the gun. You've taken away a lot on the front, while adding a lot to the back. This is what creates this unbalance. I suggest making the back smaller. You could shorten the grip, sand down the slide, making it a nite-mav would also work. The hose is a good touch. If you took the time to glue it more evenly, and with less glue, it would work fairly well. I would definitely lose the spring on top. It looks silly. I know what you were trying to go for, some type of wire coil, and you're right, that would look cool, but if you want a wire coil, make one. It's not hard, and would go a long way to improve looks. A spring just isn't really a good stand-in.
I would highly recommend practicing. Maybe not on guns though, that could be costly. I am able to paint guns well because I have a slew of warhammer miniatures that I've painted. Most of them suck, but you learn from experience. I don't want to come off as a know-it-all self-important asshole. I just want to offer you some advice to expedite your learning experience.
To sum things up:
Practice painting
Practice designing
Prepare properly
PREP WORK! The key is prep work.
This gun was clearly not prepped. The glue and most noticeably the paintjob are well, at best very rudimentary. If you took some time, sanded the warnings and logos off, sprayed a smooth coat of primer, and planned out your design, it would be much better.
To me, it looks like you had no real plan of attack. You thought on a whim to make a "steampunk" gun and then did it in an hour. I plan my guns out. I draw an initial sketch. Then I go out and look for parts. When I have a selection of cosmetic add-ons, I draw the gun again, reflecting the parts that I have.
Second, you need to plan your paintjob. You need to decide on a color palette that works. I recommend 3 or 4 colors. Pick one to be the main color, one or two for the other parts, and one for the accents. This white or grey color is not really associated with steampunk. Try something gold, bronze, brass, copper, silver, gunmetal, or even wood. These are the kinds of colors that are what make something steampunk. Remember, steampunk is the alternative reality where modern technology is created through Victorian means. Think about what something from the Victorian era is made of. Some kind of metal or wood.
Lastly, if you're doing cosmetic mods, you need to think of aesthetics. Maybe the gun looks awesome to you, if so then you've succeeded. Personally, I find it very unbalanced. The barrels look small and offset in comparison to the body of the gun. You've taken away a lot on the front, while adding a lot to the back. This is what creates this unbalance. I suggest making the back smaller. You could shorten the grip, sand down the slide, making it a nite-mav would also work. The hose is a good touch. If you took the time to glue it more evenly, and with less glue, it would work fairly well. I would definitely lose the spring on top. It looks silly. I know what you were trying to go for, some type of wire coil, and you're right, that would look cool, but if you want a wire coil, make one. It's not hard, and would go a long way to improve looks. A spring just isn't really a good stand-in.
I would highly recommend practicing. Maybe not on guns though, that could be costly. I am able to paint guns well because I have a slew of warhammer miniatures that I've painted. Most of them suck, but you learn from experience. I don't want to come off as a know-it-all self-important asshole. I just want to offer you some advice to expedite your learning experience.
To sum things up:
Practice painting
Practice designing
Prepare properly
#16510 Ss2/blast Hammer Intergration
Posted by
on 16 January 2004 - 07:10 PM
in
Modifications
Pretty cool, the blast hammer seems like a good, quick backup shot. Like OMC said, go for a cool paintjob...like arctic camo or something.
#7966 [evolution] - Stage One
Posted by
on 09 August 2003 - 08:53 PM
in
General Nerf
Everyone knows that if they do that we'll all pounce on them and call them a racist nazi pig-fucker. Thats just the way things workBy the way, no one is knocking this kid on his obvious language limitation; we all seem to get the point. Right on.
...pig-fuckers.
