How awkward is it to prime a blaster like that when it has large spring loads? I was thinking of doing something like this but determined that the force would be awkwardly distributed and would cause priming to become too uncomfortable for practical war use. Have you noticed any discomfort while priming this repeatedly like you would in a war situation?

Lol, so pretty much the best option is a streamline with a BB in it?

No, the best option is Captain Slug's Felt and Washer darts.

The box should say something along the lines of "Blasts missiles 30' " if it's a lever trigger. Also my lever trigger BBBB box said 2005 on it.

I'm not familiar with the acronym NFR could you clarify.

Nitefinder rifle my good man.

Interesting, I've never heard it called that. 9691K53 should work for a seal.

I just have a little question about the rscb. I am thinking about doing coop's bbb rscb clip.My Webpage But I want to know if it fits tagger darts since i have currently no stefans. if not instead of using a half inch barrels, to use something bigger like 3/4 pvc.

I'm pretty sure stock darts don't work in any RSCB even if you use different sized PVC or CPVC.

Are you willing to contract these?

you can add more strutual integerty by using aluminum U-channels instead of pvc ones.

I said in the Final thoughts section that I didn't want to use aluminum. I already found a way to fix the stability issues just need to post my fix in the writeup.

This design seems close to covering up the exposed moving linkages that plague most rod-style pump action conversions. If you used a larger U-channel or something to cover up the outside of the linkage in the back, and added a couple plates on the top and bottom to cover the plunger rod / bolt, I think you'd have something as safe as an RBP without so many tubes in tubes. That said, I'm guessing most of the parts I mentioned would need to be glued on b/c they're attaching to thin surfaces that can't take screws.

I'm slightly ahead of you on that one, I was working on ways to cover up the top of the linkage and I got this. A bar on top that makes the stock 100 times sturdier, and a cut section of 2" PVC to completely cover it up.




"With the advent of the simpler and sturdier RBP and RCP, I don't understand why we're using a more complex and less sturdy method to achieve pump action."

Apparently you don't understand the whole point of this blaster. Kane on the other hand does, this blaster was made to give people an alternative to making a RBP or the shitty RCP.

I really like this.

How bad was shipping from McMaster?

Is there a lot of friction between the 3/8 rod and the U-channels?

Shipping wasn't bad, and there's little to no friction on the U-channels.

I first got the idea for this blaster while looking at a picture of Split's LAB. I thought about how he used the aluminum U channels to hold together his blaster and I realized that they they could be used to make a pump action blaster. So before we go on to the blaster I would like to put recognition for a few things, Stark for his Rainbow catch, Ryan201821 for his rainbowpump templates.

Tools
Scroll saw or band saw
Power drill or drill press
Screw driver
Drill bits (specified in the writeup)
6-32 tap

Materials
PVC U channel 85065K33
3/8" square PVC bar 8660K31
1/2" Square PVC bar 8660K33
1/2" thick 6" x 6" PVC sheet 8747K635
1/4" polycarbonate sheet 12" x 12" 8574K11
3/8" 6-32 screw 90402A146
3/4" 6-32 screw 90272A151
Catch spring 9657K39
Spring I used 9637K25

Body and Catch

Lets begin. Print out the templates from here: [url="http://ryan201821.ne...mptemplates.doc"]http://ryan201821.ne...mptemplates.doc

Then place them on the materials. Set the piece with catch templates aside for now.


Cut out everything but the catch pieces. Sand the handle, the trigger, and the side plates of the handle unless you want to diddle your hand.Don't forget to drill the holes on the top of the handle.


Assemble your handle, mark where the holes are on the top of your blaster.


Drill the holes out with a bit big enough to fit your screwdriver of choice.


Now get your 5/32 bit and drill through the big holes, and out the other side so the handle can be attached.


Now get you catch piece templates, we have to modify them to work with our 1/2" PVC bar. Make the circles in the center of the catch into squares. Cut it out and drill the needed holes.


Assemble your catch and and test fit it in your plunger tube, if it doesn't fit sand it down. This next part is hard to explain. You need to line up the middle of the catch with your trigger then make a mark where the screw and spring should go into the middle catch piece.


Take out the catch and remove the handle. Drill a 5/32 hole for the screw that holds the spring on into the plunger tube. Use a 3/4" 6-32 screw for this.


The spring rest needs to be screwed into the plunger tube, Use 3/8" 6-32 screws. There aren't really any good directions for this. (Look at the picture)


You can now fully attach the handle, this what you should have now.


U channels

Cut 2 27" sections. Measure from the front of the U channel 2 1/2" then again 3 1/4". The mark at 2 1/2" is where the front of your plunger tube will sit, and the mark at 3 1/4" is where you will drill with a 7/64 drill bit into the bushing. Tap the hole then screw in a 3/8" screw.


Drill and tap another hole 10 1/2" back screw that in with another 3/8" screw.


Do this to the second U channel as well.


Plunger Rod

Unscrew the bushing and cut a 12 1/4" section of 1/2" PVC rod. Then cut a catch notch 4" back and make a mark 1 1/2" back then another 6" back from that mark. Drill those marks out with 1/4" drill bit then connect the holes with your scroll saw.


Attach your seal and cut 9" of the spring of your choice.

U channel part 2

Finish taking off your U-Channels. Then measure back 14 1/2" and measure back from there 5 1/2". Drill the marks out with a 1/4" drill bit. You can then play connect the dots with your scroll saw, to make the slots.


Do this for both of the U-channels. When your done you can mount these back on the body of the gun. Install the plunger rod and bushing as well. (Don't forget to lube the seal)

Priming Rod and pump handle

Now your in the home stretch. Cut 2 15" sections of 3/8" PVC rod. (Notice they nest nicely in the U-channels) Drill a 11/64 hole a half inch away from on of the ends. Screw in a 3" 8-32 screw, you need it to go through the priming bar then the plunger rod and then the other priming rod.


The pump grip is a made out of 1/2" PVC sheet and 1/4" polycarb. cut out 2 2"x3" rectangles out of polycarb and a 2 3/4" x 3" square out of the pvc sheet.


Assemble it like this:

A couple screws on each side is sufficient

Once that is done connect it to the priming rods by screwing it in.


Your blaster is now done minus a stock. I made mine out of 1/2" pvc sheet, I cut out a 1 1/2" x 6" rectangle and screwed it in. But you can do it an way you want.

Final thoughts

This is still a "Prototype" blaster, I have already made a list of things that I need to fix.

The U channels are flimsy because of the giant slots in them, so in Rev.2 I'll fix that by making a reinforcement to the bottom and top of the U channels with a polycarb sheet.

I chose to use a [k25] spring which was not the best choice, I'm having issues with it catching in the catch notch and it causes to much friction on the priming rod, I'll be looking for a spring with same power but a bigger I.D.

I tried to not use any aluminum on the blaster which I successfully did, the blaster doesn't sound like death like Ryan's Pumpbow which had metal on metal to prime the blaster. But I think that that might not have been the best idea on my part, the blaster in now less sturdy because of this choice.

Also, sorry for the bad pictures; I got a new camera and I still need to learn how to use it.

2K's are very prone to leakage from the goo gauge. Also with the 3k you can keep the stock pump and still get better ranges then a 2K.

AT3K overhaul is very good for the price, and it can shoot 100-110 with slug darts with 6 shots. Or skip the turret part of the mod and just hopper it.

Thanks for the other information. Unless someone else has actual data on the specific tanks I will likely use 30psi for the Big Blast and Range Master.

I have a 20 PSI McMaster OPRV on my Big Blast and it added range. I'm guessing stock BBBB PSI is ~15.

The Nerf Dart Tag Snapfire 8 does not need to be primed. Is the Snapfire 8 too overpowered?

No, because it isn't an air gun that has the capability to shoot ~100' without having to prime the blaster between shots. The argument with the Snapfire 8 is the same argument that could be made for any of Nerf's new flywheel blasters, but those aren't able to shoot past the century mark without the darts spiraling out of control.

@Draconis, It's interesting you say that, I haven't ever heard of those sorts of restrictions.

It's often times an unstated rule anymore. Basically anything that runs off of a regulator and a hard air tank isn't allowed at most wars.

I think that's a bit silly though. A well made air blaster can be just as safe or safer than a powerful springer.
You just need to apply proper safety to construction.

It's not about safety it's about fairness. A blaster you don't have to prime at all is way too OP.

How much is a +bow usually worth?

I'm sorry of this is in the wrong forum but I just didn't want to clutter the trading forum or anything.

I have seen them go for anywhere between $110 and $150.

You probably don't want to buy as much as Visipak's minimum order quantity, but here is a link anyways.

Yo you mad bro? My only point in that is that other people have stolen members' blasters in the past and that it's entirely possible for it to occur now. I don't get why you're so butt hurt about me making an extremely valid point.

I really want to believe that the range is 80-90 ft PTG, however:
1. Although ingenious, the sealing mech does not look like it seals perfectly/near perfectly
2. You have 3" draw with a 3/4" plunger tube. Blasters like the snap use 1 1/4" PT's with more draw and get just slightly higher ranges

He's using a 1 1/4" plunger tube not 3/4" or else his plunger head wouldn't fit. Also 3" of draw is more then adequate to fire 80' seeing as longshots of the specifications can shoot 95-100' flat.

Looks nice Ryan. Can't wait to face one of these a Chano4.

The orange foam doesn't work good for darts, it's too rubbery and has too much friction.

I have added a poll because I am confused as to why the people who normally show interest and show up aren't saying anything. Our wars had on average 10 people this summer, so why all of the sudden no interest?

Probably because nerfing in the cold is quite possibly one of the worst things ever.

Ryan how early will you want people there if they're going to help set up obstacles?

Scratch me out for this, I have to go to California the week before and I'm coming back that Saturday at like 6:00. Zorn if your not attending SPANO and you can attend ILFF2 I can give you the drum then.

I hate all of you right now.

I'm a definite I can't wait. I hope I can finish my overhauled 3k in time, seeing as I don't have much time.

Ill be a maybe.

Just my $0.02 : I don't particularly get why the masterkey one is a problem, considering most people know a masterkey is an undermounted shotgun of some type. Also the names help add flair to each project.

I'm not into mil-sim or real weaponry, so the name "masterkey" is just as informative to me as calling your blaster "the super punisher-wrecker I like butt plugs in my butt 9000 awesome gun." Made up names for your blasters doesn't help anybody in identifying what it actually is and what you did to it.

Mine is here: http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=21434

It doesn't need a cheek-diddle sheath because nothing flies forward when you fire it.

It would protect your face against the priming sheath if it failed to catch and flew forward. It's just another safety precaution that I think all blasters should have.

While this design fixed many of the problems of the original RainbowPump, mainly being able to disassemble it easier than before. However it doesn't have the best feature of the original, a cheek-diddle sheath around the back.

Why did you decide to eliminate the firing stabilizer from Kane's AABow write-up? It is the only thing that makes AABows actually usable blasters in NIC wars and is by far the best feature of any homemade bow blaster created.

Change the color of the light? I'm pretty sure you can't unless you open the light and change the bulb, beside for that im pretty sure you can't.

Xplorer sells premodded blasters on their website but they're rather expensive and you'll have to pay shipping from Singapore. http://www.xplorersg.com

My -2 cents.
That kid with the black recon is clearly some Ice Worshiping fucktard. All of these idiots who even decided to fucking talk to these reporters are morons. Now, we're going to see Uber Hard to mod guns coming out, cause Hasbro's gonna fucking flip out. Here we go, guys. Thanks a fuckin' ton.

That isn't certain. And besides, we could get around the "impossibles" to modify. The nitefinder tube was glued together, solution, cutting the pipe. I'm sure if hasbro even makes "unmodifiable" guns, we could find ways to get around them, just like the nitefinder.

Or everyone could just convert to homemade blasters.

look for modification directory by: ForsakenAngel24

The directory is by Blue smart one. Self reliance is key v lewiis x.

Mid 80s with bad fitting darts? Seems a bit high. How strong is the stock spring?

I think the 80' ranges is from nanos being smaller and being more aerodynamic. I remember hearing somewhere that nanos get better ranges.

My longshot its paintjob did not turn out very good.



My Nightfinder to match my Longshot its paint job turned out better then my Longshot.