Excellent modification. I have one question for you though. Is this modification durable? When I mean durable, I mean that it will be able to last for a few wars or 1 at the least?

Durability of a modification is almost never inherent to the concept but rather in the execution.

Put me as a maybe. If a crazy deal on a flight comes up, I'll come up an visit for a weekend.

I've got an open pillow on my bed ;)

Some revisions which are due:

After seeing and hearing so many issues with catches breaking, I decided to rebuild my own (it was starting to flex under enough stress which would cause the blaster to unprime if primed too quickly)


Basically I took a piece of 1/16" polycarb angle bracket (I bought the original 12" length to make firefly turret retainers) and epoxied it on. Then I drove a screw through the side.
It is important to realize which side to attach the angle bracket from. The side closer to the front of the blaster is under a ton of shear stress while the side further away is under compressive stress. So obviously we want to reinforce the side that is in the front. The purpose of the screw is mainly to firmly attach the polycarb, but it also serves to better redistribute torque on the catch.

The reason this piece undergoes so much stress even though it isn't involved the the actually ratcheting mechanism of the plunger rod is because this is the piece that via the catch spring and trigger prevents the "catching" portion from rotating.

To make room for this new catch, we need to make some cuts in our shell


I also took this time to liberally apply epoxy to the nub the pin for the catch lies in. Because this is the fulcrum for the lever-type catch, it also undergoes a ton of stress. The epoxy is not meant for structure, but to act as a further means of redistributing forces on this fulcrum through tensile forces.

Now because a support is gone in our shell, I mount my plunger rod with screws.




This should be self-explanatory.


Finally, I also took the time to replace my plunger head. There have been plenty of other threads on this so I won't go into too much detail here.

This is a post-mod writeup, so I don't have any in-progress pictures.

Mods to do:
- Rear loading
- Modular barrels
- Improved plunger to turret seal; improved plunger to turret airflow
- Increased draw
- Catch upgrades
- Adapter for removable stock

Turret
Drill out the back of your turret to allow for real-loading. Sanding drum on a dremel works too.


Unscrew the screw, and then glue all the ratcheting pieces together, as well as the entire rotation nub together. This is so the turret does not slip when rotating under the increased friction from the seal mods we will do later.


I used 6" of 5/8" ID x 3/4" OD polyester tube for my main barrels. This is for 3 reasons: 1) Shooting megas 2) Allowing 1/2x5/8 polyester tube (or CPVC too) to nest inside all the way to the back for single micro barrels 3) Allowing micro barrels to nest inside with some gap for inlines.


I harvested the stock shotgun encapsulation on the turret to use as a spacer for my mega barrels. Center a 3/4" spade bit on the natural dimples in the 3-shot intersections for perfectly spaced holes.


I glued my barrels in by solvent-welding the base plate and the barrels, and then throwing the spacer on while the weld formed.


Inline mode:

Simply push the 1/2" ID x 5/8" OD polyester tube all the way back for regular single barrels.

Plunger tube

I cut off the stock piece entirely and replaced it with 5/8" brass nested in the 5/8" ID polyester. Finished by superglueing a rubber washer to form the seal. This improves the seal and gives you much better airflow.

After cutting off the stock connection, bore it out to fit 5/8" brass. The polyester tube is only there for support of both the brass and the rubber washer.

The brass runs into the plunger tube. The polyester is solvent-welded to the outside. Be sure that your brass doesn't go into the usable volume of the plunger tube and thus impede your plunger rod movement.


I started with a 1/2" connection piece and slowly dremeled it down until when put into the shell, there was slightly less than 1/8" distance between the piece and the back of the turret. Ideally, you want it to be just long enough for good friction between the rubber washer and the back of the turret, but not so long that this greatly inhibits turret rotation.

As seen in the previous pictures, you will have to make judicious cuts on the rubber to fit it, such as a dimple to fit over the rotation mech. Also, make sure that the hole in the rubber is 5/8", else you did those airflow mods for nothing.

Plunger rod

Cut the front set of gasket off of your plunger head. It serves no purpose except in limiting plunger travel. You can also fill in the space with hot glue, though I found that when done improperly, this actually decreases range as friction between the plunger head and the plunger tube is too high.


Your plunger rod will now be able to travel forward more. You also cut down on dead space and achieve more efficient pressurization.


Accommodating the increased forward travel
Catch


Glue your catch in the down position


This is obviously easier if you take out the spring in the back

The original purpose of this mechanism was so that you can't pull the trigger without the priming bar in the forward position. This is stupid for two reasons: 1) it actually inhibits plunger rod travel forward and 2) now you can "fire" the gun in the back position to "undo" priming the gun without dry firing.

Cut off the ^ shape on the catch:

This is the main reason why you had to do the previous two steps. The ^ impedes our increased forward stroke, but is also vital in stock operation to push the catch down so the trigger can operate it.

And we're done.



Wheeeeeeeeee

I guess I'll be the one to ask for ranges. So... What kind of ranges are you getting?

Around the same as your average +bow, SM1500, or PAS with +bow spring. Less than a Big Blast or pump-replaced 3k. More than a RFDG with +bow spring. Less than a RFDG with +bow and K19 springs.

Good work on the screw for the priming spring.... Ive had nothing but trouble with those.

Thanks, I came up with the idea to use the screw after the notch on mine actually broke. Especially when you increase turret friction, that piece seems like the weakest point in the gun.

Yes.

Leave the spring in. You want to pop the rotation cylinder (the big white thing with slots on it for the bar) and ratcheting mechanism (the small circle gear things inside the rotation cylinder) apart, and then glue them all together and then glue it onto the turret. Make sure that you assemble and disassemble the piece a few times so you are sure which piece goes where and in what order you have to glue it together. Also make sure that the orientation is correct.

While you're at it, do BadWrench's torsion spring reorientation. This will be all the catch spring upgrade you need.


The new orientation increases torsion spring compression by a lot, thus almost doubling the force on the catch. Reassembly involves bending the torsion spring beyond position with a screwdriver and then slipping the catch on.


Plunger rod

Dremel out the stopper in the back of the plunger rod to allow full forward travel:


Other "get it to fit together" mods

Cut down the priming bar and spring rest so it can fit like so:


Replace the forward notch on the rotation bar with a screw further back on the bar so that on the forward stroke you're not trying to push the rotation bar into the turret.


Closeups:




Shell mods

Increase the allowable forward stroke of the priming handle.


Cut out space in the priming handle so it doesn't hit the elevated portion of the shell on the outside.


If you want to attach a stock, this is my adapter method. 3/4" PVC endcap solvent-welded in, hot glue to take up space, and a 6-32 bolt run though everything to secure it. I drilled through the endcap and both sides of the shell together, and then tapped the holes through. The solvent weld is a temporary hold, the bolt is the main structural point, and the hot glue is simply to stabilize the coupler so it doesn't shake around.


Rear-loading holes


Don't forget to upgrade your springs

Stock + ACE #49. [k26] doesn't fit. You could try [k25] maybe. I know K19 inteferes with the stock spring.

Assembly

For reference, in case you missed a step and the pieces don't seem to fit.

Amazing job, Zorn. But that goes without saying.
However, how reliable is it? Does it break a lot?

It has never actually broken. Most of these are preemptive fixes/reinforcements.

Why did you get rid of the plunger tube support bracket? Or did it break?

The L bracket makes the catch thicker so the support gets in the way. You only have to remove the one on the right side of the shell so the left one is still in but I added screws to both sides just for added stability.

Also, Zorn, is that a polycarb circle or eputty under the rubber washer on your plunger head?

It is a disc of PVC. I superglued it onto the plunger head and then drill/tapped to mount my rubber washer. The plunger head doesn't actually take any stress in terms of the seal being in front of the molded plastic so superglue is more than sufficient to keep my seal on.

1.25" PVC will not fit into 1.25" thin wall PVC, and since 1.25" PVC has an outer diameter of 1.660," it will not fit into 2" ABS pipe, which has an inner diameter of 1.5." That is, unless you are thinking of different tubing than I am.

It was pretty obvious from the context and sizing that he was thinking 1-1/2 thinwall PVC plunger tube as that's the only thinwall that fits inside 2" and over 1-1/4"

I like the G-Spot. Rub it real good!

I had an idea for something similar back when Split came out with the RTP but didn't like how either the trigger/handle would have to move or the catch would have to move with awful amounts of linkages. I like how you came up with a very nice version without too much build difficulty.

8585K43, 9245K49, 9245K43 for a +bow sized PT, bringing it to standard US homemades.. Cost is ~$46 + shipping. You'll have enough of the "inner" tube for a few more.

I'm not sure if you miscopied the links but those won't work for this blaster. In addition, you don't want to risk having tubes that perfectly nest according to the dimensions because then they might not slide smoothly.

For a US version with mostly plumbing (cheaper) try:

- 1.5" thinwall outer body, 1.25" SCH40 plunger tube, 1" PVC pump/catch
- 1.5" thinwall outer body, 1.25" thinwall plunger tube, 1.5" OD tube pump/catch
- 1.5" SCH40 outer body, 1.5" OD x 1.375" ID plunger tube, 1" PVC pump/catch

If you prime the blaster, let go of the grip, and hold it vertically, does it slide down towards your shoulder?
Would sliding like this affect the reliability of the trigger system?

I can't speak as to whether it would slide or not, but it would not affect the reliability of the trigger since the trigger actuates in the opposite direction of any possible motion.

If sliding the tube caused the trigger to fire or something, then the blaster would be de-priming itself every time you pulled it forward to finish priming it.

I'm working on a kind of snap notch to remedy this. Only because I'd like to be able to fire with one hand. I'm thinking magnets. But all in all, it's not a hinderance as far as function is concerned.

If magnets don't work out for you, check your local hardware store for "spring plungers." They're little nubs (vulvas?) used for indexing and tracking and designed specifically for this purpose, but usually require some sort of tap to instal. You might be able to just screw them into the ABS body though since plastic is fairly soft.

Why does your girl not have any legs?

Also, great tee/elbow/bushing connection method. Definitely beats drilling holes through the tee and bow arms to get the airflow path going.

What's the maximum angle (measured from the plane of the wye to the upward vertical) allowed for it to still pull the next dart in?

I imagine that it wouldn't work upside down (180 degrees), but if you have to keep it perfectly vertical (0 degrees) then it looks to be kind of awkward to use, what with almost like a giant fin in your face. I'd guess that gravity alone would be enough to feed darts up to maybe 80 degrees, and gravity plus airflow will enable it to work up to the horizontal, but will it work below horizontal (110 degrees or so)?

Also, provided I'm right and this still works around a 30 degree tilt, then you should rig two up in series with ball valves on each such that you can open one valve and close the other for a "fire-enabled" clip and a "reload this one" clip.

1: What advantage does using the funky Y serve over the elbow-in-a-hole method of the rainbowpups?

I can answer this one having asked it myself.

Better airflow and less deadspace are considerations for performance. But the real reason is that it makes manufacture a lot easier than drilling orthogonal holes and sealing flat pieces to a circular surface.

very nice job, maybe put the titan internals in a longstrike, to make a for real loser rifle

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Nice writeup!

Here's mine:

I'll be bringing 2 MHA ESLTs for loan/sale (my super jank personal one is crowding the frame in the front):

I'll be basically living at Newark EWR on 7/30 and 7/31 so consider me confirmed for this war.

Photos are up of the war: https://www.facebook...=1&l=f4f04b43aa

Highlights:



Group shot:

I've been working on trying to nail the perfect technique for doing these and I'm not quite there yet. Some findings

• Mineral spirits does not really act as a solvent for the silicone despite being the ingredient in many silicone cleanup solvents. Minerals spirits seems to instead just causes the silicone to swell and lose density
• The DAP acrylic caulk with silicone added is a terrible and useless product by itself. I've been mixing it with pure Silicone as an accelerant for uncertain and nonmeasured results
• The two best tool for working with these molds are a paint scraper and a $2 box of 100 walmart sandwich bags. The scraper cleanly levels off your molds and you can use each of the bottom corners of the sandwich bag like an icing bag to squeeze out silicone in a much faster and more controlled manner
• Using corn starch as an accelerant has been unsucessful for me. Even with tiny amounts of corn starch the material becomes unworkable extremely quickly after mixing
• Just kneading silicone in the bag seems to accelerate its curing (probably by incorporating more air) and reduces the curing time from a little over a day to about half a day
• Seriously, you should be squeezing your silicone into a bag and then cutting a corner and squeezing it out like icing; things go 2-3x faster and you use way less silicone

The problem we've been having has been bond strength. Heads fall off after a few wars...

Zorn, I'd love to hear more about your secret sauce for stronger bonds! PM me if you're not comfortable discussing toxic mixes where younger nerfers might get themselves injured. If you can help us with that last problem, we should be able to finally wrap up development of a high rate of production metal free dart option!

My secret sauce just means that foam pulls off with the dart head, but dart heads still fall off after a few wars. I don't really care because slugs fall apart after just 1 war if the ground is wet at all (or sometimes fall off in the middle of the war) and glue domes have a lifespan drastically limited by trees.

I'm mixing GE Silicone II with DAP Alex Plus which seems to lower viscosity better than mineral spirits but contains such marvelous things as Formaldehyde http://www.dap.com/docs/msds/10002.pdf

I've had almost no adhesion problems with my foam->silicone stems. Its possible that because all of my stems injects are mixed with the something that isn't pure silicone and contains some pretty toxic solvents that it is forming a better bond to the foam. Also possible is that using the plastic baggie I can really get all of the silicone mix into the dart blanks. The final possibility is that the foam I'm using (MHA Pink) is just denser/less porous than the beige you're using (from looking at your picture).

I've heard about using a combination of rubber cement and superglue to prime and adhere silicone to foam, but that seems like a very painstaking process unless you are molding your domes with the stems and then doing final assembly of just inserting stems into molds.

I might pick up a box of walmart Q-tips and rubber cement and a tub of CA glue and see if I can replicate this since I do have a stem mold.

Cool story bro.

Dome darts are nice, but the problem is hot glue domes will fall off when poorly made (and every SoCal war has tons of awful darts remaining on the field) and then you're shooting people with weights.

Also, domes with metal weights are a lot more suspicions than even poorly made slugs, as long as the slugs use a #6 washer. Obviously, silicone domes offer the best balance of appeasableness with performance, but no one has made ones that perform at par with slugs in terms of ease of use and ease of production.

If you want to still fire arrows, I suggest cutting the wide stock black BS barrels in half, nest your main barrels inside, and then fit the other black piece over.

In the video, it appears as if you shot the left barrel half-off. With a tighter dart and a war situation, you might end up shooting the entire barrel off, which is highly inconvenient.

The topic is over a year old. Lucky for you, Carbon is still around and hawks these forums, but in most other scenarios opening up a topic that old again is not going to be very beneficial.

Where can I buy one of these? I really want one

Yep, they're for sale right now.
http://www.blasterpa...-centurion.html

On topic; this is pretty neat. Someone's going to have to build an Angle Breech for this.
It's not cheap, but it's kinda cool.

Necro

I know some people think range doesn't matter at all, but these people must then nerf with terrible nerfers.

You never met Muttonchops.

Nice mod though.

No but I've heard of him. Rugby players are exempt from what you quoted.

You've never nerfed with Daniel Beaver either.

Your mediocre range improvements are probably actually due to the dead space removal. Airflow is more important here than pressurization, especially because you're using a short barrel.

@windtex: You clearly don't understand how this blaster works.

@snakerbot: For the longest time I couldn't figure out where the length reductions came from since this still follows the mold of "rails allowing pushing before the catch to pull behind the catch" [ala early pump additions to +bows), but here are my conclusions after talking a bit with Beaver. Please correct me if I'm wrong

1. Placing the priming handle on the barrel isn't as much of an innovation as a necessity. The handle moved forward so you had to move the grip forward to still maintain the same draw and so you put on the barrel sheath really as a means of guiding the pump slide. You could've just cut the sheath at ~3" extending past the wye instead of all the way to the end of the barrel correct?

2. The reason the handle moved forward was so you could effectively shorten the stock while keeping it the same length. To be more precise, in most pumpsnaps, the [stock-to-handle] distance is shorter than the [stock-to-catch] distance and to keep the blaster ergonomic, the [stock-to-catch] distance is actually longer than necessary (necessary being draw length + buffer + thickness of mechanism pieces + distance from front of catch to back of handle). In your design, moving the handle forward allows the same [stock-to-handle] distance while cutting off excess [stock-to-catch] distance. Essentially, you've kept a lot of the blaster the same but cut off some of the stock and then moved the blaster forward (relative to handle) to regain that stock length. Doing this cuts =<3" off the front of the blaster.

3. The spring is relocated from before the catch to behind the catch. This allows you to shorten the plunger rod by [solid-length-size] of the spring so that pre-catch, the length of the plunger rod is [draw-length] as opposed to [length-of-spring-at-rest]. However, at first it seems whatever length shaved off here is regained because now post-catch area of the blaster has to accompany not only [draw-length] but also [length-of-spring-on-load]*. But due to actual implementation issues and limitations of working primarily with PVC plumbing materials, I'd estimate this relocation to give =<1" of length reduction compared to normal setups.

*[length-of-spring-on-load]+[draw-length] ~ [length-of-spring-at-rest], so you've simply transformed the traditional setup of draw/spring/catch/draw to draw/catch/draw/spring.

4. Finally, by moving the spring to behind the catch, you use space inside the tee in the stock as part of the priming mechanism, saving around another =<2"


(2)-(4) gives you ~5" of length reduction compared to nerfomania's pumpsnap while a tad of (2) and mostly (3)&(4) give you ~3" of length reduction compared to diamondback's pumpsnap.
And you achieve 10" of length reduction compared to what Beaver posted because his has the priming back before the catch so the [stock-to-catch] area is "unnecessary" length.

I also realized you don't need a spring rest since the stock doubles as that!

Now that I fully get what's going on my inner nerd is pretty excited. I strongly believe this is the most compact configuration for the traditional pump action implementation and any other shortening would be a refinement on this. Fantastic!

Cohosting this with Ice9 looks to be quite interesting as we've multiple locations nearby we could used based on turnout.

Maverick rush ::D

Cons
1 -Getting insulted by Zorn ( ).
2 -Having 1 round every 1/2 hour because of the red team.

1: What?
2: I blame Demon Lord

Pros:
- Seeing BadWrench's RC tank-truck first hand
- Being able to match faces to names
- Having my 3B fire on par with the plethora of PAS's (granted, wind gave a 40' range ceiling), despite having it being constructed 20 mins before the war started
- Watching mindlord pull off some insane rushes
- Rocking dual mavs during pistols
- $5 BBB (no springs, but I use industrial springs anyways)

Cons:
- Jumping sideways to shoot Ice9 with dual mavericks in an attempt to dodge him; I hit him, but got hit anyways, and then hit the ground. Hard.
- Cutting my fingers/hands on brass
- Nitemav failing miserably due to the cold
- Not paying attention while reloading and having br1fm ninja me from behind

Put me down as a maybe. I don't like the idea of nerfing in the city though.

It's not really "in" the city. We'll be in a large park, just north of the Museum of Science and Industry. Hardly an explicitly urban setting.

I know that I've asked alot of questions, and I apologize ahead of times for that, but I have yet another. Will there be a sword round? If not, could you allow swords in the pistol round?

~F!nnster

There will not be a swords round. You may bring a sword for use if you wish.

On a different note will there be any pistol rounds?

Yes.

Singled Big Blasts are allowed, unplugged.

Scatter Big Blasts are allowed, plugged or unplugged.

Quick bit: I think I know the park you're talking about and isn't that whole bit (especially with such proximity to the MSI) really heavy with people traffic? That could be problematic with attracting police attention, although you would know the patterns of the area better than I.

The park we're looking at specifically shouldn't be too heavy with people traffic as the beach is further north. At most, we might get people doing the BBQ on the edges. If it does turn out to be too busy, the secondary park we're looking at should be private campus property and relatively devoid of people.

As we get closer to the day, we'll do some scouting to gauge people density.

Bump, as this, while maybe not as prolonged, is 1 week earlier than Valhalla. /me shakes fist at Twitch

Also, if the maybes could start confirming Y/N, that would be very convenient for us.