That would have all the same problems a full-sized Nerf AEG would have, but be pistol-sized. You need a *massive* battery, motor, and gear drive train *in addition to* all the gear slugs already got going on. A CO2 or LPA/HPA rig is more feasible, and a minimized stryfe is an easier route to compact semi auto (working on a 3d printable design for just that, actually).

Just out of curiosity, are there any homemade Nerf AEGs?

You've probably thought of these but I didn't see them mentioned:

 

- Make it so the magazine IS the grip. i.e. when you remove the magazine the blaster has no grip at all left. Obvious problem is that now the method used to secure the mag/grip needs to be very robust.

- Or really hog out the grip so that it is just a backstrap and front, and maybe a large base plate. But no scales at all, and the magazine itself becomes the scales once it is inserted. 

.

1.) I have suggested a somewhat related idea like this.

2.) That doesn't sound comfortable,especially when you're reloading. Also I don't see the advantage of having the sides of the handle removed.

I'm sorry for posting this but, I can't shake it off my mind. Just imagine an electrically controlled version of this. Like an AEP in the Airsoft World.

When your X axis belt skips 90% into the print   

Not that upset cause it came out crap, anyone have any theories on why my layers look so inconsistent / pushed out?

 

 

A guess would be stepper motor voltages. But would need to see your print settings first. Also, what's you're printer?

Fifth test print and I'm still hating it. It's not terrible, but it's enormous so it doesn't let your hand wrap around it intuitively.

 

So now I have to either go back to custom printed mags and refine the current design, or switch to an integral mag. I'm leaning towards an integral mag simply because it allows me to avoid having to supply potential customers with extra magazines. And a sidearm with a proprietary or expensive magazine would be pretty dumb if it's not something that could be easily adapted to a primary.

Then why not just make 2 mag versions. One that can be screwed in to the blaster it self and can be top loaded from the breach. And another regular mag. I mean it might not completely fix the potential supply issue but at least potential customers have options. Another option would be katana mags but keeping handle angled while the mag straight.

I think the biggest issue with that is probably the excess space it's taking up when it could be more compact, 


also Shmeee I think something that might interest you are these,
https://www.facebook...915796382006262

But what about the angle? Captain Slug main the custom mag just so that it would be angled.

Every waking free moment of my life is consumed by Caliburn production right now. I simply haven't been able to squeeze much prototyping of this design into my life since November.

How about the cad files? Will you release them? Sorry for the questions but I have some ideas for the project and would like to make one as a sidearm for my local wars.

Okay, it's sort of working. I printed the U-Channel instead of buying it just as a test, but it works.

Current issues

1. The follower needs some revisions as it rubs against the rubber band when it gets to the top of the mag.

2. The follower needs revisions to help keep it aligned inside the mag so it doesn't run into the underside of the feed-lip part

3. The rubber bands I bought are surprisingly too long by about 2 inches in circumference. I had to trim and tie this one for testing.

 

The pins as a transition point are working. The magazine also stays in one piece without glue, so testing, disassembly, and reassembly is going to be a piece of cake.

Worst case scenario if I can't solve the above two items with minor changes, I can just widen the magazine a hair so the rubber bands will clear.

Any more updates Captain? Would love to see your design fully printed and working.

Too wide and won't work with foam.

 

If you want higher capacity with this design you just cut longer aluminum u-channel. And at some point you have to get a longer rubber band.

 

That quick reply! Thanks Cap! 

Might be another bad idea but what about a double stack mag? ( I only have a 2d drawing in cad, still haven't converted to 3d model) I have one theoretically 1.12 in thick and 5.2 in in length. Thoughts?

That would be way too thick like Spud Spudoni said. No human would have that large enough hands to grip over a magazine and a plunger. Even if it were possible, there would be no way of connecting the priming handle to the plunger head. You'd have to make it prime from the bottom or something, and that'd defeat the purpose of this homemade.

 

12 inches for a homemade pistol meant for NIC level gameplay isn't very large. Nitefinders and Firestrikes with speedloaders are around the same length.

 

Two plungers mean that you have to prime twice to fire one shot. Also, with the two priming handles on opposite sides of the magwell, it'll be awkward to insert a mag.

A rectangular plunger system would be incredibly hard to manufacture. You'd somehow need to flatten PVC to get the plunger tube. Then you'd need to somehow source a rectangular washer or o-ring to get a seal. Finally, finding a spring that would fit inside a plunger like that and provide adequate power is next to impossible. Just look at the Pocketstrike's internals.

 

I personally think that the current design is great and Captain Slug is working hard to make it a reality.

I know it would be thick, It was just an idea I was playing around with. But for the priming it could be linked in to the slide with fishing line or steel chain thing that the project currently uses.

Because then there'd be no room for the mag?

 

I meant the plunger tubes beside the mag. Like a sandwich [plunger mag plunger]

I'm ready to do a test print of the grip to see if it's the right shape.

I think I've also figured out how to do a rubber-band-powered follower without taking up too much extra space. So that's the first thing I'm going to prototype prior to putting the rest of the blaster together,

Looking good! Looking forward to a smaller version. 12 inches for a pistol is too big for me. Also why not put the plunger/s in the handles (yes 2 if needed)? By making the plunger rectangular like the pocket strike.

I'm getting there. It just needs a bit more refinement.

This is a weird request but what would it hurt to make it look like a Jericho 941, Glock 19 or  the FN45? 

Not at the moment. I am currently occupied with Caliburn production. I'm slowly tweaking the design based on the prototype with the assumption that that new version will be completely 3D-printed. I have a new catch design figured out, I just need to get the main body of the blaster held together in a way that makes assembly easy.

Would I be able to help?

Haven't tried it but what about tamiya High Torque motors?

I am still working on this. I have a new approach for the catch setup and the next prototype will be 3d-printed. I'm also going to contact Jones spring company about getting a quote for magazine springs.

Any updates?

1. Buy one
2. Take it apart
3. Measure it

But realistically there's very little reason to try to replicate a stock blaster perfectly since you're not likely to be able to source identical tubing, o-rings, etc. in order to reproduce the stock components. Just take the planform and make a new design.

http://nerfhaven.com...rigger-version/

Thanks! I have another question though. Would be a 3d printed Plunger Tube count as a viable option?

Hello All! This is my first topic. I'm sorry if I placed this in the wrong part of the forums. But I am working on a homemade blaster and would like to base off the plunger tube to the Jolt and Bigshock because of the particular design I am going for. I don't have a jolt or Bigshock. That's why I am posting this right now.

Can I help?

First test assembly. The catch is not currently working. And this is currently shown without the mag, bolt, or slide return spring since I'm just testing the plunger right now.

The PVC trigger is probably stretching under the spring load and it gets distorted just enough to go out of engagement. The teeth on the shuttle piece also seem to be getting crushed. The issue could be resolved by remaking the trigger and shuttle out of polycarbonate or aluminum, but I'll look at my backup plan first and come up with a catch design that doesn't require harder materials since this design will eventually need to be compatible with 3D printing. And those materials are roughly equal to PVC in mechanical properties.
 
Even a [k25] cut down to 5-3/8 inches in length is very difficult to prime with a top grip on a slide. So this is going to need a straight pull-back handle on the back of the slide whether that is a knob or a bar grip.

Any updates on the cad file? Thinking of printing one.

How bout' double stack mags? This guy made one: 
 

How much filament do you need? (In KG) I'm getting 2 KG of ABS Soon and would like to know how much filament I need.

Will you be selling the magazines pre-made?

Oh and This: http://www.gearbest..../pp_501883.html

Will those darts work?

Hey Chanclass and Captain Slug, can I help make a 3d printable version for those who don't have access to some of the tools but by some miracle have a 3d printer?

RESULTS! 1-1/4 pipe was not working and what I discovered this morning is that if you get the PVC to the right temperature it both flattens out completely, and it seems to shrink in length.

Would a 3d printed version work as well? Also, why ot cut it out of PC Sheets and then just curve the front with pvc. Since the back of the dart is flat and only the front is relatively curved.

I'll just leave these here:

https://www.reddit.c...ndle_semi_auto/

https://www.dropbox....AG0509.jpg?dl=0

Your best bet would be finding something on the internet and printing one through a service like shapeways.

I would love to commission one of these, but instead of slugs it fires elites because of the rules at the wars I go to, but I know that I would easily mess up my darts.

I don't think the design would be able to fire regular elites. The design is made for slugs and stefans.

Can this help? https://www.jetblast...atana-magazines

It's a stefan magazine.

Captain Slug, Why not 80% or 60% infill and some padding? That seems more economical than 100%

I know this might seem off topic but, what CAD software did you use here?

Really excited for the printed version of Caliburn. But some people (like me) don't have access to PC plates.

 

The Mag Well is simply not going to include the forward face of the plunger tube. It will be a separate part made out of polycarbonate.

That was me.  I am happy and surprised to see how much success you had with this--you seemed like you were quite far over your head.  I'm glad I was wrong.

I'm pretty sure we never said we'd print any design, as we don't have the sort of printer that does that  (SLS printers can do most anything, we have FDM printers because we are poor).  And looking at your parts, I'm pretty sure we couldn't have printed them without a redesign even if we did have 3d model files for them.

I'd mostly forgotten about this, and I am sort of working on something a bit similar (Not ultiple-more, but using a pulley or a gear like the 2nd style you showed) but right now I'm re-inventing magazines to that end.  I'm glad you posted this before I put out anything as I wouldn't want to steal your thunder.  Making something like this with the help of a 3d printer would be impressive, but out of machined PVC pipes and fittings like this shows incredible skill, craftmanship and careful planning.

One question about functionality--You seem to be the only person on earth other than me that makes nerf breeches that push darts past the air source into the barrel.  In the blasters I've made like that, I've been able to repeat the loading/priming motion to put multiple darts in the barrel and fire shotgun style.  Does anything prevent you from doing that with your blaster?

Can I help? I have some experience in Solidworks and will be getting my Printer within the week.

That's So COOL! How long did it take you to build everything?

I was thinking of the same design but I guess someone beat me to it. Also, Imagine this 3d printed.

 

The added difficulty in printing more exotic stuff probably isn't necessary. Slug's been working to figure out this printed design that is *supposed* to take all the dangerous force off the printed parts. It sounds like he hasn't finished testing it yet, but it should be ok in PLA. The biggest thing I'm worried about is the handle, and even that's been reinforced and changed abit so it may be resolved from the earlier versions I saw.

I just bought the printer today. GearBest (Website I bought it from) DHL would be able to ship it to me in 3-7 days. Once I get it I'll try Caliburn in PLA and ABS.

Getting a mold set together is going to take a while. I likely won't have a "pre-production" blaster done until mid-April. I might be able to get the 3D-printed prototype (Lucian prints) put together just to check part fit and tolerances this weekend. Though I am moving slow because of a cold.

 

Cost, weight, and complexity.

 

All of the above are things I don't want to add. If I want automatic or semi-automatic then the route to take would be flywheels or HPA. Not a spring plunger.

Thanks for the reply! I'm thinking of Printing the Caliburn in PETG and Nylon.

 

Slug answered, but the cast/printed version should be very printer-friendly. We'd need to ask Lucian to see how the actual prints went but I see them sitting there so obviously it worked one way or another. Once he makes it available you'll probably need an 7x7x7 build plate and a few hundred grams of filament; plan for half a spool and if it goes perfectly you'll use less.

I'll be getting this printer: http://www.ebay.ph/i...0IAAOSw32lYpqJZ

The buildplate seems big enough to print.

Raise your hand if you like RAILS.

 

Work apparently has some leftover Platinum molding silicone so I'm going to make a mold or two this week for some of the simpler parts I haven't had to revise.

 

I figured out how to make a 2-part mold for the mag well and that necessitated some changes that mushed up the styling so I had to reprofile it and the grip in a new pattern. So the lettering has been moved to the mag well.

 

The test print of the foregrip also lacked some vertical girth and was promoting weird hand-hold positions. So it gets a 5-point underside rail and a slight profile adjustment.

 

The grip has been split into 3-parts so that it will print much easier and subsequently be much MUCH easier to cast. The print orientation means that even a low infill percentage print of these parts should be more than strong enough.

 

 

It seems that the only part left to annoy me is the stock reducer. The cast part is going to have to be FAT if I want to make it from a one-sided mold and it really can't be avoided. So the printed version of that part will be slightly cooler looking as a result.

 

Time to order some supplies. Then I get to make 16 molds

*RAISES HANDS UP FURIOUSLY* Yes master, please more "Tacti-Cool" Rails.

Oh and also I've been thinking why not add a dc motor or servo to automatically prime the blaser?

Hey Captain Slug!

I'm about to get a 3d printer. I'l try to test Caliburn. Also Is there a possibility of a more 3d printer friendly model? (More just 3d printer plastic)