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DCIT Mk2 Hinge Trigger Version

An easier to make DCIT + Write up

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#1 koree

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Posted 22 August 2012 - 01:36 AM

The DCIT Mk2 can provide consistent ~90’ ranges and good rate of fire (through an RSCB) in a very small package. To overcome the awkward catch location, I used a bike cable that goes through the shell to the trigger. From a blaster performance and ergonomics stand point, this is a perfect solution. The trigger works flawlessly and the cable takes up practically no space. However, this solution is also hard to replicate due to uncommon materials and the trial and error associated with making the bike cable trigger work. Several blasters have been posted that replicate the DCIT layout, suggesting that there is interest in this type of blaster. Therefore, I made a new version of the Mk2 that is much easier to build.

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This is the product, the DCIT Mk2 Hinge Trigger Version (Hinge trigger version on the left, original Mk2 on the right). The hinge trigger is made from the smallest hinge I could find at the hardware store. The hinge is attached to an L bracket which uses a nail to catch the plunger head and act as the trigger. To accommodate this CPT-esque catch, the delrin plunger rod used on the original Mk2 has been replaced with CPVC and uses a superlative plungerhead. It should be noted that this hinge trigger also has a lower profile than a CPT, allowing the blaster to be more ergonomic. These changes allow to the blaster to be made with parts all available from a big box hardware store and with only a power drill and a dremel for power tools. Despite this the blaster is still very ergonomic, maintains the small form factor, and performs very well.

Tools
Powerdrill with drilling and tapping bits appropriate for your screws.
Dremel with cutting and grinding bits.
Screwdriver
Pliers
Hot glue gun

Parts
9” of 1.25” sched 40 PVC
9” of 0.5” CPVC
Some 0.5” PVC
Some 0.75” PVC
Small Hinge (Picture of the one I got from Home Depot)
Large L brackets
Nails
Machine screws (I like number 8s and 6s, you can get any for which you have drill bits for.)
2x 1.25” PVC endcap
1x 0.5” CPVC T
6.5” of [k26] Spring from McMaster
A catch spring
Epoxy Putty
Superglue
Plumber’s goop
Small zip ties
Electrical or duct tape
Materials to make superlative plunger head.
Silicon grease
Hot glue


The first part is making the hinge trigger and the main body.

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Bend the L bracket into the shape in the picture and glue it to the hinge. The gluing and drying process is easier if you zip tie the parts together . To the unbent side of the L bracket, add a 0.5 inch nail and epoxy putty it on as you would for a clothespin trigger. Drill a hole for the nail on the 1.25” sched 40 PVC at the appropriate position as indicated in the picture, then epoxy putty on the hinge. Make sure the hinge doesn’t become glued stuck etc. Add the spring and secure it (I used hotglue.) Use one of the end caps to make the RSCB receiver.

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Additional picture of the trigger/catch.


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To make the RSCB drill a hole from one side of the end cap to the other. Consider what angle you’d like to hold your blaster at when you are firing it when drilling these holes. You may need to use a grinding bit with a dremel to widen these holes. Use 0.5” pvc and drill holes in it before you goop it in. These holes provide the pathway from which air will flow into the RSCB from the plunger tube. Cut up the 1.25” PVC to accommodate the 0.5” pvc and goop the cap in place.

*NOTE I use 0.5” PVC because mine nests CPVC which I use as a barrel. Use whatever you need to nest your barrel. I’m certain this can also be made with a coupler.

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Next, assemble the plunger rod assembly. Make a superlative plunger head, (I made a slightly altered version with what I had available.) add the spring, and add the 1.25” PVC end cap after drilling an hole in it. Avoid making the hole large, as it is also your spring rest and you don’t want the spring to go through. Add the CPVC T and secure it using screws. Add half an inch of either duct tape or electrical tape just above the CPVC T. This will make your blaster safe to dry fire and prevent the plunger head from hitting the RSCB. Grease up your plunger head and insert it into the body of the blaster. Secure the end cap/spring rest on with screws.

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Cut up some 0.75” PVC and add use it to cover up the bottom portion of the catch and secure it on with hotglue. Attach a barrel and RSCB reservoir and you are done!

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I hope this write up is helpful and please feel free to ask any questions and provide feedback.

Edited by koree, 01 February 2013 - 01:02 AM.

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#2 Shoopy

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Posted 22 August 2012 - 08:15 AM

This post was nicely typed and easy to follow along with. *Two claps for Koree*

Now, I can make one myself with just a bunch of scrap I have at my workbench.

This will be great to use.

The only changes I'm going to make is filling in the top endcap with hot glue to reduce dead-space. This is only a minor change but I'd think it would help.

Thanks for the great write-up and improvements!

Edited by Shoopy, 22 August 2012 - 08:21 AM.

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#3 BiwinningPanda

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Posted 22 August 2012 - 08:35 AM

Nice writeup! I will definitely try this design out when I get a chance. Thanks!
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#4 Shoopy

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Posted 22 August 2012 - 09:00 AM

I just drew this up. It's uses a 1" x 1/2" internal coupler just because I trust the seal more than drilling into a endcap and shoving PVC trough (and adding a bunch of glue to seal it). It still uses Koree's hinge method and a superlative head. I also changed the priming grip to a piece of nylon rod from a 1/2" CPVC tee and the 1.25 endcap is now 3/4".

Using a wye also changes the way you have to hold it. I now have to hold it at a 45 degree angle to fire flat. I actually prefer this because it feels more natural to me.

Credit to Ryan for the wye idea and credit to Koree for the hinge method.

Also, I can always just swap the wye out for a tee if I want to hold the Plunger tube vertically.

I'm going to start building. Oh yeah, I need to add this...
Posted Image

Edited by Shoopy, 22 August 2012 - 09:21 AM.

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#5 BiwinningPanda

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Posted 22 August 2012 - 09:06 AM

I just drew this up. It's uses a 1" x 1/2" internal coupler just because I trust the seal more than drilling into a endcap and shoving PVC trough (and adding a bunch of glue to seal it). It still uses Koree's hinge method and a superlative head. I also changed the priming grip to a piece of nylon rod from a 1/2" CPVC tee and the 1.25 endcap is now 3/4".

Using a wye also changes the way you have to hold it. I now have to hold it at a 45 degree angle to fire flat. I actually prefer this because it feels more natural to me.

Also, I can always just swap the wye out for a tee if I want to hold the Plunger tube vertically.

I'm going to start building. Oh yeah, I need to add this...

I really like that idea. It also (probably) takes away the need to drill holes in the RSCB.
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#6 Daniel Beaver

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Posted 22 August 2012 - 10:19 AM

I just drew this up.

No need to draw it up, when it basically already exists.
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#7 koree

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Posted 22 August 2012 - 11:26 AM

Thanks for the compliments

The only changes I'm going to make is filling in the top endcap with hot glue to reduce dead-space. This is only a minor change but I'd think it would help.



I keep forgetting to mention that i actually do add hotglue. But if you look at where the RSCB tubing is in the end cap, there is virtually no space past the RSCB tubing, and I only needed about half a glue stick to cover the sides. The amount of dead space is really small as the plunger head pretty much touches the RSCB tubing.

As for sealing, it doesn't need help, there isn't any air leaking from the part of the blaster if you do it right. The plunger rod comes to a complete stop when i fire it with my hand over the barrel.

I personally don't like the wye solution. I believe Split planned, with the original DCIT, to use a wye, but the angle was deemed too uncomfortable. Other than preferring a more pistol grip angle for myself, another issue that arises with the wye is the plunger rod sticking out at that angle. With the angle i use, the plunger rod is pointed down enough that it's nowhere near the shooter's body in almost any shooting position. At a wye's angle you're more likely to hit/scrape the body, particularly when you're holding the blaster close to you with two hands. Also, using a wye and a bushing will introduce more dead space than you were hoping to get rid of with the hot glue. :P

Edited by koree, 22 August 2012 - 12:11 PM.

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#8 VelveetaAvenger

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Posted 22 August 2012 - 03:34 PM

Have you tried adding more L-brackets to bring the trigger back up to the top? I think if the brackets are strong enough for it that would pretty much be the perfect blaster. It's still really cool though.

Kinda like this↓
┌┐
┌┘
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#9 koree

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Posted 22 August 2012 - 07:26 PM

Have you tried adding more L-brackets to bring the trigger back up to the top? I think if the brackets are strong enough for it that would pretty much be the perfect blaster. It's still really cool though.

Kinda like this↓
┌┐
┌┘



Thanks, and that's a cool idea. I didn't really think about a more comfortable position for the grip laterally. I might implement that next time i need to make one of these. There probably wouldn't be an issue with how strong the mechanism is. However, I can imagine this design choice would make the trigger pull tougher. Since the longer lever would create a shorter trigger pull would move that catch farther.
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