I've never ordered from Cabela's, but it's a fairly reputable store, at least with respect to the potential for fraud. They're basically a Gander Mountain or Bass Pro Shop type of store.

I am unable to attend. I really miss these superstock wars, especially at this location.

Few do except for those who are wanting to get into the game/do it for thrills and those who accept only appropriate compensation from clients. If this is $100 in materials, I'd probably want to charge $500 or more to make it possibly worthwhile for me to do it.

The reason nobody takes comissions is because most people who want a commission are used to paying sub-$100 for an OOTB blaster. The other part is that the makers have too few clients willing to pay *anything* because most people DIY it if they like it.

Similar to the above bolded, those who can't do it themselves, aren't willing to pay what it's worth to get it done right. Those who can afford to get it done right, are able (and willing) to do it themselves. This is a generalization, but I think there's some truth to it.

OP: Have you tried alternate battery packs (that you know work just fine) in order to eliminate the battery as the source of the problem?

I'm in Western, KY, about 1.5 hours away from Clarksville, TN.

Definitely don't put poo on the darts because then they can cause pinkeye

I didn't know people did that. This is such a dangerous hobby. Maybe we should quit doing it?

How much did the 100 pack from Walmart cost?

Anyone have recommendations for which glue to use for reattaching the Koosh heads?

Thanks.

EDIT: I found out the UHU POR expanded polystyrene foam works well, but I want something I can get from a local hardware store.

What darts do you use?

I'm about 2 hours away in Western KY. If there are enough people for a war, I might be able to justify a drive over there.

It'll work in that the motors will fit, but the wiring lengths will be all wrong. Look at the blastersmith UK site for their kit & also look up foamdataservices YouTube video on rewiring the demolisher. It's actually one of the more difficult ones to rewire because of the opposite side battery tray & the lack of much internal room.

I have heard/seen this as well.

Some of them are ideally used on Nerf blasters:

I'm moving soon to Western Kentucky, which is very close to you.

And don't forget, eBay is VERY buyer friendly. You sell something the buyer isn't happy with, be prepared to pay for them to return the item (on your dime) and for you to refund the money.

Then there's the 10% (or so) cut eBay gets on your sale. 

The Rayven also has a longer barrel than the Stryfe. Perhaps there is some interference/friction with the darts leaving the Ravyen's barrel?

Additionally, three IMRs in series will have a higher nominal voltage (11.1 volts or so) than two LiPos in series (7.2 volts or so).

Are any of you New Yorkers coming to Apoc able to cash in water bottles for 5 cents? If so, how do you do it? I have a bunch of 500 ml water bottles that say 5 cents for NY deposit.

Thanks for the info. I'm thinking about getting rid of mine by giving them away, but not sure if they'll work in NY (or CT).

I think it's worth looking into. I think potential issues you'll have to figure out is pricing, availability and consistency of the ear plug's diameter.

Keep in mind that I think the foam blanks most people use for slugs/stefans only costs a few cents (for the raw material only), so unless you can get the earplugs for under 8 cents per pair, I doubt this is something most people will be able to afford to use, at least when compared to slugs/stefans.

If you could, please let me know if you can definitely make it.

The wires will be fine. You'd be ok if you went to 18awg, although if you have the room in the Zeus, it can't hurt to use the thicker 16awg wire.

So does that translate into working better or worse for accuracy and fps? My guess is maybe actually worse because of the gaping and un-even hole in the tip, I don't know any physics yet though but im guessing you do slug

I think it's going to come down to simple testing.

I'm curious as to how these would do in flywheel blasters.

I know there's been some talk or concern about the Nerf community going to other sites like facebook. Could one reason be that it's too cumbersome for people to join NH? They have to wait for approval and when they get it, they're limited in how they can post or PM. I can't blame someone from relying on facebook or reddit for informing others about Nerf wars or events given how so many people who are interested aren't allowed to post on NH.

Maybe making it easier to joining NH might keep more people from using other sites? Or has NH already gotten rid of these restrictions?

Thanks for the information and answers.

Koosh are great for flywheel blasters

There is no right answer to your question. Given the US legal system, someone can file a lawsuit against you for any reason, no matter how stupid, illogical or unfair. Sure, they may not win, but you have to deal with the lawsuit either way.

There's talk about waivers, but that doesn't guarantee anything, except maybe you'll sleep better at night. Common sense and making sure those "too young" have parental supervision at your Nerf wars seems to be the norm.

Very neat!

Depends on exactly what you need. Depending on your barrel and NIC blaster set up, you may need stefans of a particular length and diameter. And do you want domes or slugs?

Whatever you want, some people will be able to make them and sell them here on NH (such as myself, but I just make #6 or #8 slugs; no domes from me).

snakerbot is exactly right. I'd like to add that the voltage during a discharge will also depend on the rate of discharge. Under high loads, batteries will experience "voltage sag" which can sometimes lower the voltage of the battery past its nominal voltage rating. Batteries with high internal resistance will tend to do this more (and get warm/hot).

I use the original grey one and I've had no problems with it.

This thread might help:

http://nerfhaven.com...lugs-questions/

I know it can run a 3s lipo, but I want to know what the absolute MAXIMUM voltage it can run before burning up.

If you really want an answer, here it is: it depends. You can overvolt them as much as you want as long as you're willing to deal with a much shorter life. But how much of a shorter life is anyone's guess.

So then the question is, if you increased the voltage by X volts, how much of a shorter life will you have? But before you can answer that question, you need to know how much of a shorter life you are willing to deal with. 

TLDR: Just buy a second set of motors, run your desired voltage and keep track of the run times. If they last long enough for you (assuming nothing melts), you have your answer. If they don't, use less voltage and run them again, keeping track of how long they last. 

Someone already did. Needs to use short mags because it's got a short stroke.

The Nerf Khaos and Kronos are two different blasters, right?

What's a Ranger One?

It might be possible to to earn "beer money" or make enough money to support your hobby , but don't expect to be able to quit your day job.

The answer depends on the type of AAA batteries you're using, but even with lithium primaries or Eneloop AAA, 3-6 amps is a lot of current draw for such a small cell. So if it works, you won't be getting the best performance and will be reducing the life of your battery (if rechargeable).

Generally, each participant brings their own darts. Some clubs/groups will have a shared bin of darts (aka: a community bin, which can have several thousand darts in it) that participants may use if they pay a fee. Of course, the host doesn't have to charge a fee if he doesn't want to, but it's his call.

I feel the biggest problem with a community darts bin is that it requires a large upfront cost which someone has to pay. The cost can be spread out, but I wouldn't be surprised if people refuse to pay a fee for darts they're not allowed to take home, but rather, only use. The second biggest problem is that which dart works the best in which blaster? I like Gen3 Koosh darts, but some springer users may not and prefer voodberry or stock Nerf Elites.

I've only played in wars where everyone brought their own darts. It's nice in that people know what works in their blasters and can load up however and whenever they want. However, what often happens is newer or cheaper players will use your darts (point 1) during the game and accidentally take home other people's darts (point 2). Regarding this first point, it's a little annoying when you bring extra mags and darts, but your buddy only has two 12 shot clips/mags and 24 darts and he expects to play competitively. You will likely let him borrow some darts and/or mags, and this will increase your dart loss. It's a necessary part of playing, I get it (we were all rookies once), but it increase the cost of Nerfing of more seasoned players.

Regarding the second point, I played in a group where I started off with about 120 or so stock Nerf Elite darts. After about 2 wars, I literally had 30 darts left. Dart loss in the leaves and forest areas was part of the reason, but I'm pretty sure some of the newbies took a few, thinking my darts belonged to them.

The above two points are why a community dart bin can be a good idea.

What I did was epoxy a push-to-fit vinyl coupler to the end of the pump, then attached the vinyl tubing to the coupler

You can see what I mean here: http://nerfhaven.com...ider/?hl=raider

You can compare how I attached the vinyl tubing by looking/comparing the pictures in the first and last post. The last post shows what I mean about gluing the coupler to the pump.