We allow shields, but only if their offensive "weapon" is a melee item, like a sword. Needless to say, we get a lot of face shots since that's basically the only thing we can reliably hit when someone uses a large shield.

The benefits of slugs are that they provide stefan type performance in higher powered NIC and/or homemade blasters. The components of the slugs are fairly cheap and the felt tip allows them to feed well in hoppers. 

They can be made easily, but it takes practice to get the hot glue (or other adhesive) applied the right way, foam cut squarely and washers centered on the adhesive pads.

Slugs can be obtained by either buying them from someone who makes them (such as myself, KaneTheMediocre, snickers and others) or making them yourself. If you're really into NIC style play and have the time, it's well worth the effort to learn how to make slugs and make them yourself. Here's a great guide for making slugs: http://nerfhaven.com...ade-nerf-darts/

Most people follow that guide for the most part, but may tweak exactly how they make their slugs, such as choice in foam, adhesive used, foam length, etc.

If darts were stored for a long time in the cylinder/barrel of the Strongarm, what you observed isn't too surprising, since the darts have compressed so that they can no longer make an effective seal.

I could be wrong, but if the Strongarm works anything like a Maverick, then I bet this is what's happening (it happened to me with a Maverick back in the day).

Use a gimbal. This is the best Nerf video I've ever watched: 

Why wouldn't this work with #8 washer slugs? They work just fine in stock CPVC barrels, so they should work just fine in this throat barrel, right?

Also, is this kind of like a reverse chicago style barrel?

If by Chicago, you mean the ESLT style of barrel, with 3 inches of CPVC, and then really loose (~.527 ID)  barrel, then I suppose this is applicable, however I classify that as a "Telescopic" barrel because of the changes in DIA as well as material used. So perhaps? but they are otherwise unrelated.

 

I've had trouble feeding #8 slugs through my CPVC barrels, just my experiences.

Ok. I suppose I was lucky enough to get an extra wide ID batch of CPVC a while back.

https://www.amazon.c...ding=UTF8&psc=1

Recommend these, cheap and reliable. Holds 12x18rounders at max capacity.

+1

That's what I use and I've very happy with it, even when I'm using it to hold twelve 18 dart box bags.

If a chest rig will handle 18 dart box mags no problem, why wouldn't it handle a 12 dart box mag? Maybe I'm misreading something?

Also, if you're going into Nerf without regard to cost (lucky you!) and you also know you're getting this chest rig anyways, what exactly are you asking for?

Do a search on NH; there is a lot of discussion on the different types.

Yes, it currently operates off the generosity of Langley, VACC, and other admin/mod staff. It takes money to pay for the domain name, server space, upkeep, and etc.

Ideally the number would be kept to a minimum, they would be hand-picked by staff for appropriateness/quality, and they would be unobtrusive. One at the top and side wouldn't interfere with browsing. I think it's been discussed after news posts, and usually the consensus is that it'd be for non-members/not-logged-in members.

If they start raking in cash, the extra would probably go back into the community somehow - contest prizes and etc. That's somewhat unlikely though.

That's really cool, cockerpunk.

I think the Sledgefire is immensely practical for indoor wars in tight quarters, like residential houses. Sure, the ROF is low, but being able to place 3 darts with great spread can't be beat by most stock blasters. 

The lead free is theoretically healthier but harder to work with, plus there's really no health benefit since at regular soldering temperatures the lead doesn't vaporize anyway, the fumes are the flux which is in lead free and regular solder. Just get lead solder its cheaper and as long as you don't eat it or something stupid like that you'll be fine.

That's good to know!

But even so, why would people go out of the way to mention the type of solder used AFTER the fact, or to specifically mention one kind to use for a build as if there is a functional difference? 

It implies some sort of performance difference in terms of conductivity, etc., which I fail to read anywhere

It makes them feel smart and important.

I believe in the axiom: "the more hazardous it is to your health, the better it works."

However, I never noticed a difference in performance or ease of use, when using either lead or lead free solder. I don't think I've used leaded solder in decades, though.

I just bought whatever was at my Radio Shack, which only sold lead-free, if I recall correctly. I think it had rosin core. Works just fine for all my electrical applications (Nerf rewires, R/C, battery packs, working on circuit boards, etc.)

As for the lead being a health risk, just make sure you wash your hands after using it and avoid breathing the fumes.

Thanks for posting this here!

I can probably make the 15th, but I certainly won't be able to make the 22nd.

I probably can't make the 15th either, sorry.

For those who may be interested, this is a great place to play. Superstock wars have their charm!

While I know little about nerf modding (I'm still a newbie) I do know quite a bit about batteries and such from my flashlight addiction :-)  What I have are "real" d-cell 10000 Mah batteries. There are stupidly expensive so I wouldn't even consider using them except for the fact I already have them for an led mag-lite.  

They should work, as long as you do a good job soldering them into a pack and use high quality components to handle the current draw.

Really, although it's probably more of an indictment on me not knowing anything, rather than the merit of the mod.

This is the first I've ever heard of the "afterburner" mod.

I have done a similar thing with a regular 18 dart box mag and a 18 dart Firefly mag. The battery holder in the Firefly mag serves as a mag spacer so I have 36 darts much in the same way you have 24 darts. Of course, your method provides for a more "balanced" blaster (I've always found the 18 dart box mags unwieldy).

You can do some research by searching eBay for sold prices of various Nerf blasters.

I assume this is a joke.

+1 on the Kronos and Artemis. These are nice in that users don't need to lug around extra mags. Some big pockets or a simple belt pouch/bag should suffice (except for ball spammers who like to slamfire the Artemis...)

I bet that sucker has some serious resistance.

you guys make it sound like i can't get within 25 yards of my targets without getting wrecked? so are we having 50-75 yard engagements?

Isn't the Demolisher like a larger version of the Stryfe (ie semi-auto rather than fully auto)?

Keeping darts in revolver type cylinders isn't great, since it slightly deforms the darts over time.This leads the darts sliding out of the cylinder and reduced power. At least this was the case with older blasters, like the Spectre and Maverick. I assume the same still applies with more modern cylinder Nerf blasters, but I could be wrong.

About 4-5 hours (driving), round trip.

You run any brushed motor at spec and it will eventually burn out. So the more you overvolt it, the faster it'll burn out.

I'm just wondering if the Trustfires have been damaged by this set up.

Are you running Trustfires at the same time with "regular" alkaline batteries?

If the title applies to you, have you ever experienced freezing issues on load screens or error messages while watching replays of a particular play, such as a home run? I'm playing the 2014 version of the game, but I'm asking if anyone has this problem in any version, given how rare this console is.

Anyone have freezing issues in general on their Vita and if so, how did you fix it?

Thanks!

I just have 1 question, why did you ask this on nerg hayven? Sony or the maker of the game could help serverly, or you could look up the problem on google or youtube, but nerf hayven is probably not the place to start looking for answers.

I'm sorry, I didn't realize that the off topic section was limited to NIC related questions only.

Forgive my assumption that playing with foam shooting toys and the PS Vita was mutually exclusive.

If you take footage, please use a gimbal. Notice the difference:

Note: Not my video (it's from MTB). It's the first Nerf footage video I've ever enjoyed watching. Gee, I wonder why.

EDIT: Yes, I know gimbals aren't cheap, but neither are GoPro cameras or DSLRs.

I don't know for sure if they would work,  but even if they do, they're not going to be the most efficient given their internal resistance.

I would strongly recommend against using such cheap lithium cells with high performance motors. You could make a 6-8 cell AA NiMH battery pack that should work ok with the MTB Rhinos (assuming you use respectable cells). But then that would take you additional time and effort and cut into your profit margins.

Your call.

If you don't know how to do that, you shouldn't be taking commissions.

Titan

 

 

are the flywheel blasters annoyingly loud?

In my opinion yes, but you can get used to them.