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#353681 Constant Force spring blaster infodump

Posted by snakerbot on 22 May 2016 - 09:51 PM

IMG_3157.JPG

A while back I posted this in the homemades pictures thread.  In short, it was a blaster whose energy source was a constant force spring, like the kind used in Raider drums or your tape measure.  Specifically it was 9293K12.  For those who are not familiar, a constant force spring is a flat piece of metal wound in a coil around some sort of central shaft or bearing.  When you pull on the free end, the coil rotates around this shaft and unwinds.  Because pulling the free end farther only unwinds more of the spring, it doesn’t get any harder to pull as you pull it farther, hence the ‘constant force’ descriptor.

 

The origin of this experiment is several years ago when a poster on this forum (I can’t remember who it was or what the original context was) offhandedly mentioned constant force springs.  Fast forward several years and I have a job, disposable income, and boredom, and decide to give this a shot.  The original plan was to build a new blaster to run the experiment with, but I got lazy and retrofitted my extension spring rainbowpup instead.  Because of the nature of constant force springs they can really only be put into rainbowpup/eslt/whatever type blasters with plungers that are pulled instead of pushed. 

 

I’m going to drop some physics on you guys here.  I wasn’t sure exactly what spring to get, or how strong it should be.  Constant force springs really are a completely new area, so there are no “standard” springs or rules of thumb or anything.  Constant force springs don’t have a “spring constant” like compression or extension springs do.  So how to compare?  I didn’t come up with a good answer to this until much later.  What I eventually did was just guess and pick a spring whose draw force was about halfway (a little more actually) between the no-extension and full-extension force of the 9432k125 I found for my rainbowpup.  After buying the spring I realized that the best comparison was probably energy release.  The potential energy stored in a compression or extension spring is given by the equation E=0.5Kx^2 where E is the potential energy stored by the spring, K is the spring constant, and x is the displacement of the spring.  The potential energy stored in the K125 spring at the 6.5” of draw I use is therefore 65.4875lbf*in or 7.4J.  The potential energy at rest (I use no pre-extension) is 0J.  So the total energy released during firing (not all of which goes into the dart) is 7.4J-0J=7.4J.  So for the most equal comparison I should find a spring that can release 7.4J over 6.5in of travel.  Turns out by complete accident, I hit that on the nose with the spring I bought.

 

The potential energy of a constant force spring I couldn’t find online or in my machine design textbook, so I derived it.  (If someone finds a mistake in this result, please let me know, that might explain some things).  What I got was E=Fx where E is the energy released, F is the spring force, and x is the displacement.  So our total energy here is 68.9lbf*in or 7.78J. 

Note that the displacement term in the compression/extension spring is quadratic, while the displacement term for constant force springs is linear.  That means that for higher draws, the constant force spring falls behind in energy very quickly, but for this blaster/spring combo, I had almost exactly the same energy, so I moved forward with this.

spring energy graph.png

 

So theory over, let’s talk practical application.  The edge of the spring needs to line up with the plunger rod, because that’s where the free end comes off.  To accomplish this, I used a 1.5” pvc tee and carved it to the nines so I could mount the spring a little off to the side.  I drilled a hole through the tee and used sliding door bearings to hold the spring.  I ground them down so one edge of each could fit into the ID of the spring. 

IMG_3315.JPG

IMG_3309.JPG

 

For attaching the spring to the plunger rod, I used a section of ½” nylon rod (the same material used for the plunger rod).  One end was threaded to screw onto the end of a small stud with the priming disk on it.  The other end had a slot in it, into which I inserted the spring.  A small screw goes through a hole in the end of the spring (the spring comes like that) to affix the two together. 

IMG_3317.JPG

IMG_3311.JPG

 

Assembly is a bitch.  To get the spring into the tee, I had to hold it in place and slowly thread the bolt down through the tee, alternating between rotating the bolt a turn or two and then going back and rotating these nuts a turn or two.  Once that was done, I inserted the plunger extension into the front of the blaster body.

IMG_3322.JPG

That is where it sits at rest, so I had to stick my finger in the tee at the front and force it down towards the plunger rod. 

IMG_3323.JPG

Then I turned the plunger with my other hand to thread the two together. Not fun.

IMG_3327.JPG

 

So how does it shoot?  Not well.  I’m not sure of the exact reason now, but this blaster had trouble.  About one in five darts didn’t leave the barrel.  The ones that did didn’t seem to shoot as hard.  I don’t have a chronograph, but range tests show a clear drop off. I have a couple theories for why this could be.  First, while this spring is labelled as ‘constant force’, it isn’t like that, not quite.  Constant force springs take a small amount of travel before they reach their listed force.  I guess this is due to the shape of them or something.  I have a couple inches of pre-travel built into this setup, but maybe it isn’t enough.  Further, there is almost certainly more friction in this setup compared to an extension spring.  The bearings I used are a source of some of this, and the priming disk in the middle of the plunger rod is surely rubbing against the inside of the body because of the shape of the spring pushing it sideways.  There is also a possibility that the spring, which is 1in wide, is scraping on the inside of the front body of the blaster.  One final reason is that the process of disassembling this blaster and replacing the spring seems to have messed up the rod seal a little bit.  I’m not sure why, and it doesn't seem bad enough to account for all the problems I see.

 

I said in the pictures thread that “this is the weirdest thing ever”. What did I mean by that?  Well, it primes like nothing else I’ve ever used.  I’m not even sure how to describe it.  “Light” is almost right, but that isn’t really it.  I end up smashing the priming handle hard against its stops almost every time I prime it.  It’s like I begin to prime back and am expecting a certain amount of force based on how much resistance at has at the beginning, but then it throws me for a loop because that extra resistance doesn’t come.  I’m sure I could get used to it eventually, but it is pretty weird at first.

 

So, difficult to assemble, expensive ($10.83 for one spring!), weird to prime, and not shooting quite like you’d expect.  Are there any upsides?  I don’t know.  If you could find the right spring, and get the geometry correct (no grinding), you could make one of these that shot pretty well and maybe felt like it had a weaker prime, but I don’t consider that worth it.  Extension springs already have pretty light primes for how well they shoot, and I don’t see this offering enough advantages to overcome the disadvantages.  I’ll leave the blaster as-is for a little while if anyone wants more pictures or wants me to do any more tests, but I don’t see a good reason to keep it as it is forever.

 

Crossposting additional pictures from the homemades pictures thread here, so it's all in one place.

IMG_3159.JPG

Not primed:

IMG_3160.JPG

Primed:

IMG_3161.JPG


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#358196 1995 Crossbow CAD Files

Posted by CaptainSlug on 24 February 2017 - 05:10 PM

I haven't modeled the springs yet. I'll add them to the set soonish, then make the STL files available.

 

STEP 214 Format: http://captainslug.c.../Crossbow95.zip (2.6mb)

 

Stitched Shell Scan: http://captainslug.c...erf/cb95_s1.jpg

Exterior DXF: http://captainslug.c.../Crossbow95.dxf

Cutaway DXF: http://captainslug.c...bow95inside.dxf

c95_11.jpg

c95_12.jpg

The internal parts are 100% measurement accurate. The shell however isn't exactly dimensionally perfect. It's been altered for improved strength and more compatibility with 3D printing (hopefully).


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#354914 FDL-1: Fully 3D Printed Robotic Blaster

Posted by jkovarovics on 10 July 2016 - 09:39 AM

Hey everyone,

 

I wanted to introduce you guys to the FDL-1. Some of you may have seen a prototype version in a Drac video a few months back and anyone who was at DartCon during NvZ this year probably saw it in person. It's a fully 3D printed Mega blaster controlled via an Arduino like microcontroller running brushless motors. I've also open sourced it so people can print their own if they're up to the challenge. I have a website setup with a webshop. It's http://www.fdl1.com. If this perks your interest, check it out, there are more pics and info there. There are also links to the Thingiverse page and Facebook page.

 

Just to be clear, I am not here to market the FDL-1. If you want to buy something, cool, but I mostly want to show this to Nerfhaven. I entered the Nerf community from the maker world. I had no idea the stuff you guys were making. My first war was a Nerf culture shock. There was 3D printing all over the place, blasters mashed together, painted, hydro dipped, the works. I was impressed to say the least. The point being, I had never had anyone tell me you couldn't or shouldn't print an entire blaster or use brushless motors or make the thing robotic so I just did it. I spent over a year revising the entire design over and over based on my experiences of using it in the office then on the field. In the maker world, bigger is almost always better so I went with Megas. I also hadn't seen a flywheel mega blaster released by Nerf at the time so I took that on as a challenge. Anyway, I posted about this on reddit a few months back and got slammed with criticism. I just came on here looking for a NIC blaster design for NomNE and saw someone talking about 3D printing a full blaster. Some of the first comments were you shouldn't and that you can't print flywheels. It pains me every time I see those responses. In the maker world we ask ourselves what if? I feel like the NIC does a lot of asking why. I never asked myself why would I print an entire blaster, I just asked myself what if I did and did it. What if I took the motors off my drone and stuck them on there? What if I want to operate the thing remotely? Use a microcontroller. What if a revolver is clunky? Load it from the back with a button to advance it and throw in an IR sensor so it doesn't dry fire empty chambers. All what ifs. The NIC is full of brilliant minds and makers at heart. I'd hate to see a cool design not created or a mod not done because someone asked you why you would do it or told you it was impossible. Just try it.

 

Anyway, here's a pic. Let me know what you guys think. My next design will be mag fed before that comes up. Nerf, make, print on

 

aPLCSN4.jpg


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#354210 Armageddon XVII: SoCal's Largest NIC War (2016)

Posted by Ryan201821 on 14 June 2016 - 10:34 PM

Great war. It's been 7 years since I've been to a 'Geddon. It was cool seeing a bunch of people I haven't seen in years, and also meeting a bunch of new people I've never met. The war location is excellent for a war this size. I especially admire the perfect symmetry allowing different games to be set up easily and accurately with little effort. Thanks to Zeke for putting up with everyone's bullshit for the weekend, and the time and cost that goes into hosting a nerf war, especially one this size. 

 

Things I liked:

  • Death clicker gametype is a perfect mashup of Deathmatch and Meat-Grinder. I need to get some mechanical counters.
  • U3 trains
  • Other general trains that were rollin'
  • Rock Mode, of couse.
  • I took a nice cold one.
  • Double ESLT is super effective, still...The blowgun is the perfect attachment for shooting little kids, or rushing fools while making poop sounds.
  • Little kids who were smarter than a lot of the older people.
  • Lots of ideas for potential future projects to revolutionize nerf once again.
  • Weather 

Things that could've been better:

  • Staging area was too close to field of play. Maybe we should just tell people expect to be shot at all times, within the gated area. (i.e. wear safety glasses)
  • Decent cover, but a couple smaller mobstacles in the more open areas would've made it perfect.
  • Not having to fly on a plane to get there.

Things that need to change:

 

  • FVJ darts, and other not-even-close-to-soft domes = not nerf. These things are straight rocks, yo. I saw some pretty nasty damage to some people from these darts and at points it was generally frightening to walk into certain situations. I think this was also amplified by the most likely over-powered blasters they were using. 
  • Loudspeaker would be a nice addition. Sometimes it was difficult to wrangle people to the next game. Especially since none of us were very good at yelling.
  • Darts in general. Maybe by this time next year we'll finally have the end-all solution.

 

I definitely plan on going next year. Sorry East Coast, but it is better than Apoc.


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#357858 Good wills and Thrift stores in New York City

Posted by ToadBrews on 06 February 2017 - 02:56 PM

You have a massive sense of entitlement and you expect everyone else to do your research for you. Neither of those will help you get ahead in this hobby, or in life. It's hilarious you're upset a random goodwill employee didn't know how much a legendfire costs when you, someone who has an interest in foam blasters, also had no idea. No one forced you to make a bad purchase. Nobody ripped you off. You picked up an item with a price tag on it, the cashier charged you the amount on the price tag, and you took the item home. Then when they gave you a store credit to make up the difference (something which was a courtesy to you and theynhave no legal or ethical obligation to do) you went on the internet and racially profiled them and called the manager a bitch. The problem here is you.


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#357155 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by EocDragon on 14 December 2016 - 08:02 PM

These are basically homemades:

O1UtME8.jpg

 

So I've been collecting Berserkers for a while because they have that sweet, sweet 4B tank inside. Berserker shells are hot garbage though, so I never did anything with the dozen or so that I have, since I don't want to just chop the front off of the shell and call it a day and I also don't want to spend 6 hours dremeling the fuck out of some other, better shell for each one and every one.

 

I do have a 3D printer though, so rather than remake all of the files for my springer homemades that I lost when my hard drive crashed last year, I procrastinated and made these instead. They're essentially 3D printed shells specifically for the 2nd Gen Berserker tanks so that I can print them over them the course of a day and then drop the tank in with minimal effort. Everything is mechanically fastened so the whole thing comes apart to maintain the tank or replace broken parts if that happens. 

 

Ranges are unplugged 2nd Gen 4B ranges. I might eventually make a version for the 1st Gen tanks, but those Berserkers are less common (fun fact, did you know that there are 5 variants with the 2nd Gen tank to the one original variant with the 1st Gen?). For now they're pretty easy to make loaners for wars (it's harder for the kids to break unplugged air blasters).


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#356160 JSPB3D

Posted by 3DBBQ on 08 October 2016 - 04:07 AM

jspb-3d-astm-free_orig.jpg

Introduce:

Hi! This is my new work, part of the use of 3D printing, it is very simple production,
just need to put it together , glue together, and you can change the style you want.
 
This model looks like some of the features of the past works, is not the same place? 
it has reserved some air road,using PU soft tube to connection, in addition to the RSCB Clip can be added,
the future can also connect another pump to push the clip inside darts.
 
The second pump push the darts inside the clip videos:
JSPB Pro2 does not need to muzzle down to load, JSPB Pro2 can continue shooting.
 
 
Pump air in to the Clip inside the darts to precision position is not easy, 
they must create an air escape,to prevent the continuous emission of darts.
 

3DSTL Files : 

https://drive.google...N00?usp=sharing

JSPB3D SCH40 core.STL
JSPB3D SCH40 breech ring.STL

JSPB3D trigger.STL

JSPB3D guard.STL
Breech block.STL
lock plate.STL

 
 
3D Printr settings:
I used the layer of 0.25mm and 0.6mm of the nozzle,
Basically, this model is fairly easy to print and does not require supporting materials.
 
Specification:
In Asia to get CPVC SCH40 is difficult, here are the use of CNS specifications,
Later I ordered the HERSHY CPVC4120 SCH40 on the Internet ,so I actually tested it
 
Tolerance issues:
Too tight part can use the hammer to knock into, too loose place can increase the thickness with PTFE TAPE,
Model tube through the place where most of the design groove, you can also plug O-Ring,
There is another way is to use screws to fix.
 

 

Part list:

j3d-white-up_2_orig.jpg

ABS rod  Φ5mm
SCH40 1/2"
SCH40 3/4"
PETG 1/2"
CHECK VALVE 1/2"  x2
PU-Tube 8X12mm 
OS   3/4"
1/2" Elbow   x2
3/4" Cap 
Pump
7X1.9  O-Ring
16X1.9  O-Ring
24X16X2 Rubber washer
Screws 5/32 X 1/4
Screws 5/32 X 5/8
AB Glue

Option:
1/2"  Tee 
1/2" Cap
Cable tie 
PTFE tape
Air flow direction:

 

j3d-white-up-air_orig.jpg

using screwdriver and a hammer to chisel a path to add more airway:

 

 

airpath_1_orig.jpg

 

img-1675.jpg?306


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#355527 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by Ryan201821 on 13 August 2016 - 11:24 PM

P10206811-1.jpg


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#354691 Plusbow Rev. 3

Posted by CaptainSlug on 30 June 2016 - 08:48 AM

bow3_007.jpg

 

Plusbow Rev.3 Guide

 

Instructables Mirror

 

Design Goals

  • Reduce Part count
  • Two Options for Plunger tubes and Plungers (+bow or 2-11)
  • Omni-directional catch
  • Spring guide to remove "serpentine" behavior
  • Ease of dis-assembly
  • Limit screws to two lengths (1/2" and 1-1/2")
  • "Check Valve" Plunger head
  • Use of extension springs or rubber bands for catch (multiple configurations possible)
  • "Ultra-Compressible" O-Rings
  • NO MORE INTERNAL CUTS, that means no pilot holes, no feeding a scroll saw blade through a pilot hole. Every cut can be done with a scroll saw or a band saw.

Total Build cost: $70 (for one plunger tube type)

Sunk Cost per Plusbow: $25

 

 

Thanks to: Splitlip, Aeromech, Ryan McNumbers, Groove, CrankyMonkey, VACC, and TED


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#354638 Looking back at 14 years in the LGLF...

Posted by Langley on 28 June 2016 - 02:25 PM

14 years ago today, I met up with my friend Fred from highschool and we modified a nerf blaster, committed an act of petty larceny, and signed up for a Geocities account.  The blaster was actually a Super Soaker XP 150 modified to shoot nerf darts, the theft was a garden gnome from the garage-sale addicted hoarder down the street, and the Geocities account was for the LGLF homepage.  5 weeks later we joined up with one of my nephews (Left Nut) and found ourselves at the first annual Apocalypse nerf war, where we met Vacc and Spoon (the original founders of NerfHaven), One Man Clan, and the members of the Lawn Chair Mafia nerf clan.  A couple of weeks after that we hosted our own war, and called it GnomeFEST.  We were the baddest group of toy-gun-toting dorks in New Jersey.
 
Langly.JPG
 
Over the next few years I met Talio and we all went on a road trip down to the D.C. area to nerf with Crankymonky and Groove (Edit: yes, and THIRST.).  Shortly after that, Hasbro sent a designer and an engineer out to a GnomeFEST to meet us, and they recruited Talio and One Man Clan into an early version of their Nerf Ambassador program.  The designer from Hasbro is still working there, leading the team on the Rebelle line.  We nerfed around Philadelphia and some paintball field in bumfuck Delaware, and had a few more Apocs and GnomeFESTS.  Around 2005 One Man Clan agreed to pick up some kid from Hoboken who he'd never met on the way to a war.  They sat in uncomfortable silence for about an hour as OMC wondered how this guy was going to load a nerf gun with only one arm.  That guy was JLego, and he turned out to be the fastest most impossible to hit nerfer at that event.  We met lots of other people over the years, and some drifted away or stopped nerfing, including Fred, and then eventually, me. 
 
When I came back in early 2008 after a two year hiatus, I reconnected with Talio and JLego, and they introduced me to some new guy named Splitlip.  We all agreed to carpool down to a DCNO later that spring, and in an alcohol fueled surge of collective nostalgia, the four of us decided to re-boot the LGLF. A month later Talio joined the Mag7 in the worst act of betrayal on American soil since Benedict Arnold.  But that was okay, because we would add Muttonchops in 2009 and Gears in 2010.  Our old allies Crankymonky and Groove would both join us in 2011, and (though he'll deny it) TED joined in around 2012.
 
Over the years we traveled all over the east coast, to Maryland and Virginia, Philadelphia, Pittsburgh, Toronto and Chicago.  We went to Penn State for Humans vs Zombies, and some of us flew out for Armageddon in Los Angeles.  We made a lot of friends on those trips, and even more came out to visit us every year at Apoc.  We met the Sex Dwarves of Pittsburgh, and the U3 and Rainbow Clans from Chicago.  We played with nerfers from Ohio, Minnesota, Oregon, Washington, Georgia and Florida.  We helped host Geddon, DCNOs, ECNOs and NENOs.  We ate Hasbro's Pizza and we drank their beer.  We busted UIN13s balls, hit on Lord Draconical's girlfriend and pooped in Forsaken Angel's toilet.
 
I got a little carried away there.  What was I saying? Oh yeah. 
 
I love this clan, and the people who are in it.  It's been an incredible 14 year journey and I wouldn't trade it for anything.  I know we're scattered all over the country now, and I'm well past my nerf expiration date, but I'll keep going if you do.  Thanks guys. 
 
-Langley
 
GroupShot.jpg
10371602_10103866900172939_971413470646675538_n.jpg
10356689_10104346792654559_548979891915000760_n.jpg
1420585665-316199-5-lglf.jpg
GLHF.jpg
 
There are some more photos I dug up in this album on facebook: https://www.facebook...59315644&type=3
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#354211 Armageddon XVII: SoCal's Largest NIC War (2016)

Posted by Langley on 14 June 2016 - 10:46 PM

  • Loudspeaker would be a nice addition. Sometimes it was difficult to wrangle people to the next game. Especially since none of us were very good at yelling.

 

I appreciate the euphemism, but 'loud asshole' is the proper nomenclature.  I'll try and make it next year. 


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#352868 Stryfe Mag Release Extender

Posted by Cappucino on 19 April 2016 - 05:08 PM

Hi Folks! Today I wanted to get an extended mag release button for my stryfe, but I didn't want to pay a lot for shipping from Hobby Mods. So I made a nice little homemade one! I'm pretty sure someone has done this, but I wanted this to be here for reference. So I present to you, my homemade Stryfe extended mag release button. (I'm not sure if you can do this with other stryfe style mag release blasters, but I'll check on that.)

 

So this is what mag release looks like.

 

IMG_5717.JPG

 

So Start out with your Stock mag release stryfe

IMG_5718.JPG

 

Open up your stryfe. (This stryfe is my old modded one)

IMG_5719.JPG

 

We will be focusing on this area right here. This is the mag release.

IMG_5720.JPG

 

Take out that screw and take these two pieces out.

IMG_5721.JPG

 

We do not need this piece. You can put this in your extra parts bin.

IMG_5722.JPG

 

Now take this Mechanical Dart Lock out.

IMG_5723.JPG

 

This is what it looks like.

IMG_5726.JPG

 

Remove the spring on it. And Trash or keep it. 

IMG_5728.JPG

 

Now you are left with this.

IMG_5730.JPG

 

Cut this small nub off with a dremel and some other cutting tool. 

IMG_5732.JPG

 

Now grab the other piece of the mag release we had before.

IMG_5734.JPG

 

Add your choice of adhesive to the green spot. (I used hot glue, but you can use something stronger)

IMG_5737.JPG

 

This is what it should look like after

IMG_5741.JPG

 

Now place it back into the stryfe

IMG_5742.JPG

 

Put the screw back on

IMG_5743.JPG

 

Finally, put the other half of the shell back on and screw the stryfe back together.

IMG_5744.JPG

 

 

 

And there we have it, the homemade, cheap extended mag release! This is my first writeup, so I would like any kind of feedback. Thank You!

Attached Thumbnails

  • IMG_5737.JPG
  • IMG_5741.JPG

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#361992 my custom nerf loadout

Posted by Ice Nine on 19 November 2017 - 07:23 PM

This is the most beautiful thread posted to NerfHaven in several years. I'm locking it so no one can sully its beauty.


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#361990 my custom nerf loadout

Posted by sterling the superhog on 19 November 2017 - 03:21 PM

this is my nerf loadout with my custom nerf longshot, i sdpent like 12 hours on it, no h8 please  :)

 

n5UbKP0.jpg

 

O7Jn0SB.png


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#360588 Muzzle loading 17th Century Pistol

Posted by Justin Andrews on 15 June 2017 - 03:47 AM

17th Century English Lock Cavalry Pistol (field test prototype).
LARP safe foam firing firelock.

Based on an existing English (or Doglock) pistol, this was a large pistol commonly used by cavalrymen.

The lock is a fully working copy of a flint lock, with both full and half cock positions, as well as a safety at half cock which makes it hard (though not impossible) to fire the pistol, in addition the external sear is movable and can be used to retain the cock.

Fires the same foam ball ammunition as the Larpquebus® with a range of around 9-10 meters, and well under the 1 joule limit (required in the UK to ensure the blaster does not fall under the legal category of lethally barrelled!)

Otherwise its the same general operation as the Muzzle loading Musket (Larpquebus) I posted here a while ago.

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1.jpg
  • 2.jpg
  • 3.jpg

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#358328 1995 Crossbow CAD Files

Posted by CaptainSlug on 02 March 2017 - 11:23 AM

Full K26 version with stock extended by 1.500 inches. Also requires a separate nose piece to hold the end of the plunger tube which had to move 2.500 inches forward beyond the profile of the original shell.

c95_18.jpg

STEP 214: http://captainslug.c...Crossbow95b.zip(1.4mb)


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#357862 Koosh Vortex Tornado Scans (Now a shell replica concept thread)

Posted by mysterio on 06 February 2017 - 06:39 PM

17WNwZR.jpg

 

 

ZAKtxh8.jpg

 


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#354652 Looking back at 14 years in the LGLF...

Posted by Jlego on 28 June 2016 - 11:11 PM

I'm at work and I'm feeling emotional and this is my most favorite NerfHaven post in the entire world.

I love you guys so much. 

 

I'll try to keep up.

You guys are the best. Love everyone in this clan and I miss you all terribly. What a long, strange, alcohol-fueled trip it's been.

Ditto on ALL counts <3

 

I've been in this hobby for a good long while and I've spent so much time and effort making darts and blasters and going places to see people, but it's all so worth it to know people this excellent. I honestly can't imagine life without all of you in it, here's to 14 more years!
 

EDIT: Don't forget the creation of the NIC's greatest and most prolific bromance! (debatable, convince me otherwise/get @ me)

2011-03-26 13.01.24.jpg


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#354155 Armageddon XVII: SoCal's Largest NIC War (2016)

Posted by CaliforniaPants on 12 June 2016 - 11:30 PM

The second round of freeze tag where Ryan and Jlego chased me around the school and I started a chain reaction that made the game go on for another few minutes was pretty fun. Zorn got some good photos of me turning a baseball slide into a summersault.

I dont have that one, but...


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#353080 PCSR: A new homemade design

Posted by Aeromech on 26 April 2016 - 09:50 PM

Intentional necro to alert those interested of relevant information. Files are up. Instructions/complete parts list will be made available as the night rolls on

 

Linky linky --> https://drive.google...WG8tOGxPNHJ4WnM


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