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#353681 Constant Force spring blaster infodump

Posted by snakerbot on 22 May 2016 - 09:51 PM


A while back I posted this in the homemades pictures thread.  In short, it was a blaster whose energy source was a constant force spring, like the kind used in Raider drums or your tape measure.  Specifically it was 9293K12.  For those who are not familiar, a constant force spring is a flat piece of metal wound in a coil around some sort of central shaft or bearing.  When you pull on the free end, the coil rotates around this shaft and unwinds.  Because pulling the free end farther only unwinds more of the spring, it doesn’t get any harder to pull as you pull it farther, hence the ‘constant force’ descriptor.


The origin of this experiment is several years ago when a poster on this forum (I can’t remember who it was or what the original context was) offhandedly mentioned constant force springs.  Fast forward several years and I have a job, disposable income, and boredom, and decide to give this a shot.  The original plan was to build a new blaster to run the experiment with, but I got lazy and retrofitted my extension spring rainbowpup instead.  Because of the nature of constant force springs they can really only be put into rainbowpup/eslt/whatever type blasters with plungers that are pulled instead of pushed. 


I’m going to drop some physics on you guys here.  I wasn’t sure exactly what spring to get, or how strong it should be.  Constant force springs really are a completely new area, so there are no “standard” springs or rules of thumb or anything.  Constant force springs don’t have a “spring constant” like compression or extension springs do.  So how to compare?  I didn’t come up with a good answer to this until much later.  What I eventually did was just guess and pick a spring whose draw force was about halfway (a little more actually) between the no-extension and full-extension force of the 9432k125 I found for my rainbowpup.  After buying the spring I realized that the best comparison was probably energy release.  The potential energy stored in a compression or extension spring is given by the equation E=0.5Kx^2 where E is the potential energy stored by the spring, K is the spring constant, and x is the displacement of the spring.  The potential energy stored in the K125 spring at the 6.5” of draw I use is therefore 65.4875lbf*in or 7.4J.  The potential energy at rest (I use no pre-extension) is 0J.  So the total energy released during firing (not all of which goes into the dart) is 7.4J-0J=7.4J.  So for the most equal comparison I should find a spring that can release 7.4J over 6.5in of travel.  Turns out by complete accident, I hit that on the nose with the spring I bought.


The potential energy of a constant force spring I couldn’t find online or in my machine design textbook, so I derived it.  (If someone finds a mistake in this result, please let me know, that might explain some things).  What I got was E=Fx where E is the energy released, F is the spring force, and x is the displacement.  So our total energy here is 68.9lbf*in or 7.78J. 

Note that the displacement term in the compression/extension spring is quadratic, while the displacement term for constant force springs is linear.  That means that for higher draws, the constant force spring falls behind in energy very quickly, but for this blaster/spring combo, I had almost exactly the same energy, so I moved forward with this.

spring energy graph.png


So theory over, let’s talk practical application.  The edge of the spring needs to line up with the plunger rod, because that’s where the free end comes off.  To accomplish this, I used a 1.5” pvc tee and carved it to the nines so I could mount the spring a little off to the side.  I drilled a hole through the tee and used sliding door bearings to hold the spring.  I ground them down so one edge of each could fit into the ID of the spring. 




For attaching the spring to the plunger rod, I used a section of ½” nylon rod (the same material used for the plunger rod).  One end was threaded to screw onto the end of a small stud with the priming disk on it.  The other end had a slot in it, into which I inserted the spring.  A small screw goes through a hole in the end of the spring (the spring comes like that) to affix the two together. 




Assembly is a bitch.  To get the spring into the tee, I had to hold it in place and slowly thread the bolt down through the tee, alternating between rotating the bolt a turn or two and then going back and rotating these nuts a turn or two.  Once that was done, I inserted the plunger extension into the front of the blaster body.


That is where it sits at rest, so I had to stick my finger in the tee at the front and force it down towards the plunger rod. 


Then I turned the plunger with my other hand to thread the two together. Not fun.



So how does it shoot?  Not well.  I’m not sure of the exact reason now, but this blaster had trouble.  About one in five darts didn’t leave the barrel.  The ones that did didn’t seem to shoot as hard.  I don’t have a chronograph, but range tests show a clear drop off. I have a couple theories for why this could be.  First, while this spring is labelled as ‘constant force’, it isn’t like that, not quite.  Constant force springs take a small amount of travel before they reach their listed force.  I guess this is due to the shape of them or something.  I have a couple inches of pre-travel built into this setup, but maybe it isn’t enough.  Further, there is almost certainly more friction in this setup compared to an extension spring.  The bearings I used are a source of some of this, and the priming disk in the middle of the plunger rod is surely rubbing against the inside of the body because of the shape of the spring pushing it sideways.  There is also a possibility that the spring, which is 1in wide, is scraping on the inside of the front body of the blaster.  One final reason is that the process of disassembling this blaster and replacing the spring seems to have messed up the rod seal a little bit.  I’m not sure why, and it doesn't seem bad enough to account for all the problems I see.


I said in the pictures thread that “this is the weirdest thing ever”. What did I mean by that?  Well, it primes like nothing else I’ve ever used.  I’m not even sure how to describe it.  “Light” is almost right, but that isn’t really it.  I end up smashing the priming handle hard against its stops almost every time I prime it.  It’s like I begin to prime back and am expecting a certain amount of force based on how much resistance at has at the beginning, but then it throws me for a loop because that extra resistance doesn’t come.  I’m sure I could get used to it eventually, but it is pretty weird at first.


So, difficult to assemble, expensive ($10.83 for one spring!), weird to prime, and not shooting quite like you’d expect.  Are there any upsides?  I don’t know.  If you could find the right spring, and get the geometry correct (no grinding), you could make one of these that shot pretty well and maybe felt like it had a weaker prime, but I don’t consider that worth it.  Extension springs already have pretty light primes for how well they shoot, and I don’t see this offering enough advantages to overcome the disadvantages.  I’ll leave the blaster as-is for a little while if anyone wants more pictures or wants me to do any more tests, but I don’t see a good reason to keep it as it is forever.


Crossposting additional pictures from the homemades pictures thread here, so it's all in one place.


Not primed:




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#358196 1995 Crossbow CAD Files

Posted by CaptainSlug on 24 February 2017 - 05:10 PM

I haven't modeled the springs yet. I'll add them to the set soonish, then make the STL files available.


STEP 214 Format: http://captainslug.c.../Crossbow95.zip (2.6mb)


Stitched Shell Scan: http://captainslug.c...erf/cb95_s1.jpg

Exterior DXF: http://captainslug.c.../Crossbow95.dxf

Cutaway DXF: http://captainslug.c...bow95inside.dxf



The internal parts are 100% measurement accurate. The shell however isn't exactly dimensionally perfect. It's been altered for improved strength and more compatibility with 3D printing (hopefully).

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#354914 FDL-1: Fully 3D Printed Robotic Blaster

Posted by jkovarovics on 10 July 2016 - 09:39 AM

Hey everyone,


I wanted to introduce you guys to the FDL-1. Some of you may have seen a prototype version in a Drac video a few months back and anyone who was at DartCon during NvZ this year probably saw it in person. It's a fully 3D printed Mega blaster controlled via an Arduino like microcontroller running brushless motors. I've also open sourced it so people can print their own if they're up to the challenge. I have a website setup with a webshop. It's http://www.fdl1.com. If this perks your interest, check it out, there are more pics and info there. There are also links to the Thingiverse page and Facebook page.


Just to be clear, I am not here to market the FDL-1. If you want to buy something, cool, but I mostly want to show this to Nerfhaven. I entered the Nerf community from the maker world. I had no idea the stuff you guys were making. My first war was a Nerf culture shock. There was 3D printing all over the place, blasters mashed together, painted, hydro dipped, the works. I was impressed to say the least. The point being, I had never had anyone tell me you couldn't or shouldn't print an entire blaster or use brushless motors or make the thing robotic so I just did it. I spent over a year revising the entire design over and over based on my experiences of using it in the office then on the field. In the maker world, bigger is almost always better so I went with Megas. I also hadn't seen a flywheel mega blaster released by Nerf at the time so I took that on as a challenge. Anyway, I posted about this on reddit a few months back and got slammed with criticism. I just came on here looking for a NIC blaster design for NomNE and saw someone talking about 3D printing a full blaster. Some of the first comments were you shouldn't and that you can't print flywheels. It pains me every time I see those responses. In the maker world we ask ourselves what if? I feel like the NIC does a lot of asking why. I never asked myself why would I print an entire blaster, I just asked myself what if I did and did it. What if I took the motors off my drone and stuck them on there? What if I want to operate the thing remotely? Use a microcontroller. What if a revolver is clunky? Load it from the back with a button to advance it and throw in an IR sensor so it doesn't dry fire empty chambers. All what ifs. The NIC is full of brilliant minds and makers at heart. I'd hate to see a cool design not created or a mod not done because someone asked you why you would do it or told you it was impossible. Just try it.


Anyway, here's a pic. Let me know what you guys think. My next design will be mag fed before that comes up. Nerf, make, print on



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#354210 Armageddon XVII: SoCal's Largest NIC War (2016)

Posted by Ryan201821 on 14 June 2016 - 10:34 PM

Great war. It's been 7 years since I've been to a 'Geddon. It was cool seeing a bunch of people I haven't seen in years, and also meeting a bunch of new people I've never met. The war location is excellent for a war this size. I especially admire the perfect symmetry allowing different games to be set up easily and accurately with little effort. Thanks to Zeke for putting up with everyone's bullshit for the weekend, and the time and cost that goes into hosting a nerf war, especially one this size. 


Things I liked:

  • Death clicker gametype is a perfect mashup of Deathmatch and Meat-Grinder. I need to get some mechanical counters.
  • U3 trains
  • Other general trains that were rollin'
  • Rock Mode, of couse.
  • I took a nice cold one.
  • Double ESLT is super effective, still...The blowgun is the perfect attachment for shooting little kids, or rushing fools while making poop sounds.
  • Little kids who were smarter than a lot of the older people.
  • Lots of ideas for potential future projects to revolutionize nerf once again.
  • Weather 

Things that could've been better:

  • Staging area was too close to field of play. Maybe we should just tell people expect to be shot at all times, within the gated area. (i.e. wear safety glasses)
  • Decent cover, but a couple smaller mobstacles in the more open areas would've made it perfect.
  • Not having to fly on a plane to get there.

Things that need to change:


  • FVJ darts, and other not-even-close-to-soft domes = not nerf. These things are straight rocks, yo. I saw some pretty nasty damage to some people from these darts and at points it was generally frightening to walk into certain situations. I think this was also amplified by the most likely over-powered blasters they were using. 
  • Loudspeaker would be a nice addition. Sometimes it was difficult to wrangle people to the next game. Especially since none of us were very good at yelling.
  • Darts in general. Maybe by this time next year we'll finally have the end-all solution.


I definitely plan on going next year. Sorry East Coast, but it is better than Apoc.

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#357858 Good wills and Thrift stores in New York City

Posted by ToadBrews on 06 February 2017 - 02:56 PM

You have a massive sense of entitlement and you expect everyone else to do your research for you. Neither of those will help you get ahead in this hobby, or in life. It's hilarious you're upset a random goodwill employee didn't know how much a legendfire costs when you, someone who has an interest in foam blasters, also had no idea. No one forced you to make a bad purchase. Nobody ripped you off. You picked up an item with a price tag on it, the cashier charged you the amount on the price tag, and you took the item home. Then when they gave you a store credit to make up the difference (something which was a courtesy to you and theynhave no legal or ethical obligation to do) you went on the internet and racially profiled them and called the manager a bitch. The problem here is you.

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#357155 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by EocDragon on 14 December 2016 - 08:02 PM

These are basically homemades:



So I've been collecting Berserkers for a while because they have that sweet, sweet 4B tank inside. Berserker shells are hot garbage though, so I never did anything with the dozen or so that I have, since I don't want to just chop the front off of the shell and call it a day and I also don't want to spend 6 hours dremeling the fuck out of some other, better shell for each one and every one.


I do have a 3D printer though, so rather than remake all of the files for my springer homemades that I lost when my hard drive crashed last year, I procrastinated and made these instead. They're essentially 3D printed shells specifically for the 2nd Gen Berserker tanks so that I can print them over them the course of a day and then drop the tank in with minimal effort. Everything is mechanically fastened so the whole thing comes apart to maintain the tank or replace broken parts if that happens. 


Ranges are unplugged 2nd Gen 4B ranges. I might eventually make a version for the 1st Gen tanks, but those Berserkers are less common (fun fact, did you know that there are 5 variants with the 2nd Gen tank to the one original variant with the 1st Gen?). For now they're pretty easy to make loaners for wars (it's harder for the kids to break unplugged air blasters).

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#356160 JSPB3D

Posted by 3DBBQ on 08 October 2016 - 04:07 AM



Hi! This is my new work, part of the use of 3D printing, it is very simple production,
just need to put it together , glue together, and you can change the style you want.
This model looks like some of the features of the past works, is not the same place? 
it has reserved some air road,using PU soft tube to connection, in addition to the RSCB Clip can be added,
the future can also connect another pump to push the clip inside darts.
The second pump push the darts inside the clip videos:
JSPB Pro2 does not need to muzzle down to load, JSPB Pro2 can continue shooting.
Pump air in to the Clip inside the darts to precision position is not easy, 
they must create an air escape,to prevent the continuous emission of darts.

3DSTL Files : 


JSPB3D SCH40 breech ring.STL

JSPB3D trigger.STL

JSPB3D guard.STL
Breech block.STL
lock plate.STL

3D Printr settings:
I used the layer of 0.25mm and 0.6mm of the nozzle,
Basically, this model is fairly easy to print and does not require supporting materials.
In Asia to get CPVC SCH40 is difficult, here are the use of CNS specifications,
Later I ordered the HERSHY CPVC4120 SCH40 on the Internet ,so I actually tested it
Tolerance issues:
Too tight part can use the hammer to knock into, too loose place can increase the thickness with PTFE TAPE,
Model tube through the place where most of the design groove, you can also plug O-Ring,
There is another way is to use screws to fix.


Part list:


ABS rod  Φ5mm
SCH40 1/2"
SCH40 3/4"
PETG 1/2"
CHECK VALVE 1/2"  x2
PU-Tube 8X12mm 
OS   3/4"
1/2" Elbow   x2
3/4" Cap 
7X1.9  O-Ring
16X1.9  O-Ring
24X16X2 Rubber washer
Screws 5/32 X 1/4
Screws 5/32 X 5/8
AB Glue

1/2"  Tee 
1/2" Cap
Cable tie 
PTFE tape
Air flow direction:



using screwdriver and a hammer to chisel a path to add more airway:






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#355527 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by Ryan201821 on 13 August 2016 - 11:24 PM


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#354691 Plusbow Rev. 3

Posted by CaptainSlug on 30 June 2016 - 08:48 AM



Plusbow Rev.3 Guide


Instructables Mirror


Design Goals

  • Reduce Part count
  • Two Options for Plunger tubes and Plungers (+bow or 2-11)
  • Omni-directional catch
  • Spring guide to remove "serpentine" behavior
  • Ease of dis-assembly
  • Limit screws to two lengths (1/2" and 1-1/2")
  • "Check Valve" Plunger head
  • Use of extension springs or rubber bands for catch (multiple configurations possible)
  • "Ultra-Compressible" O-Rings
  • NO MORE INTERNAL CUTS, that means no pilot holes, no feeding a scroll saw blade through a pilot hole. Every cut can be done with a scroll saw or a band saw.

Total Build cost: $70 (for one plunger tube type)

Sunk Cost per Plusbow: $25



Thanks to: Splitlip, Aeromech, Ryan McNumbers, Groove, CrankyMonkey, VACC, and TED

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#354638 Looking back at 14 years in the LGLF...

Posted by Langley on 28 June 2016 - 02:25 PM

14 years ago today, I met up with my friend Fred from highschool and we modified a nerf blaster, committed an act of petty larceny, and signed up for a Geocities account.  The blaster was actually a Super Soaker XP 150 modified to shoot nerf darts, the theft was a garden gnome from the garage-sale addicted hoarder down the street, and the Geocities account was for the LGLF homepage.  5 weeks later we joined up with one of my nephews (Left Nut) and found ourselves at the first annual Apocalypse nerf war, where we met Vacc and Spoon (the original founders of NerfHaven), One Man Clan, and the members of the Lawn Chair Mafia nerf clan.  A couple of weeks after that we hosted our own war, and called it GnomeFEST.  We were the baddest group of toy-gun-toting dorks in New Jersey.
Over the next few years I met Talio and we all went on a road trip down to the D.C. area to nerf with Crankymonky and Groove (Edit: yes, and THIRST.).  Shortly after that, Hasbro sent a designer and an engineer out to a GnomeFEST to meet us, and they recruited Talio and One Man Clan into an early version of their Nerf Ambassador program.  The designer from Hasbro is still working there, leading the team on the Rebelle line.  We nerfed around Philadelphia and some paintball field in bumfuck Delaware, and had a few more Apocs and GnomeFESTS.  Around 2005 One Man Clan agreed to pick up some kid from Hoboken who he'd never met on the way to a war.  They sat in uncomfortable silence for about an hour as OMC wondered how this guy was going to load a nerf gun with only one arm.  That guy was JLego, and he turned out to be the fastest most impossible to hit nerfer at that event.  We met lots of other people over the years, and some drifted away or stopped nerfing, including Fred, and then eventually, me. 
When I came back in early 2008 after a two year hiatus, I reconnected with Talio and JLego, and they introduced me to some new guy named Splitlip.  We all agreed to carpool down to a DCNO later that spring, and in an alcohol fueled surge of collective nostalgia, the four of us decided to re-boot the LGLF. A month later Talio joined the Mag7 in the worst act of betrayal on American soil since Benedict Arnold.  But that was okay, because we would add Muttonchops in 2009 and Gears in 2010.  Our old allies Crankymonky and Groove would both join us in 2011, and (though he'll deny it) TED joined in around 2012.
Over the years we traveled all over the east coast, to Maryland and Virginia, Philadelphia, Pittsburgh, Toronto and Chicago.  We went to Penn State for Humans vs Zombies, and some of us flew out for Armageddon in Los Angeles.  We made a lot of friends on those trips, and even more came out to visit us every year at Apoc.  We met the Sex Dwarves of Pittsburgh, and the U3 and Rainbow Clans from Chicago.  We played with nerfers from Ohio, Minnesota, Oregon, Washington, Georgia and Florida.  We helped host Geddon, DCNOs, ECNOs and NENOs.  We ate Hasbro's Pizza and we drank their beer.  We busted UIN13s balls, hit on Lord Draconical's girlfriend and pooped in Forsaken Angel's toilet.
I got a little carried away there.  What was I saying? Oh yeah. 
I love this clan, and the people who are in it.  It's been an incredible 14 year journey and I wouldn't trade it for anything.  I know we're scattered all over the country now, and I'm well past my nerf expiration date, but I'll keep going if you do.  Thanks guys. 
There are some more photos I dug up in this album on facebook: https://www.facebook...59315644&type=3
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#354211 Armageddon XVII: SoCal's Largest NIC War (2016)

Posted by Langley on 14 June 2016 - 10:46 PM

  • Loudspeaker would be a nice addition. Sometimes it was difficult to wrangle people to the next game. Especially since none of us were very good at yelling.


I appreciate the euphemism, but 'loud asshole' is the proper nomenclature.  I'll try and make it next year. 

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#352868 Stryfe Mag Release Extender

Posted by Cappucino on 19 April 2016 - 05:08 PM

Hi Folks! Today I wanted to get an extended mag release button for my stryfe, but I didn't want to pay a lot for shipping from Hobby Mods. So I made a nice little homemade one! I'm pretty sure someone has done this, but I wanted this to be here for reference. So I present to you, my homemade Stryfe extended mag release button. (I'm not sure if you can do this with other stryfe style mag release blasters, but I'll check on that.)


So this is what mag release looks like.




So Start out with your Stock mag release stryfe



Open up your stryfe. (This stryfe is my old modded one)



We will be focusing on this area right here. This is the mag release.



Take out that screw and take these two pieces out.



We do not need this piece. You can put this in your extra parts bin.



Now take this Mechanical Dart Lock out.



This is what it looks like.



Remove the spring on it. And Trash or keep it. 



Now you are left with this.



Cut this small nub off with a dremel and some other cutting tool. 



Now grab the other piece of the mag release we had before.



Add your choice of adhesive to the green spot. (I used hot glue, but you can use something stronger)



This is what it should look like after



Now place it back into the stryfe



Put the screw back on



Finally, put the other half of the shell back on and screw the stryfe back together.





And there we have it, the homemade, cheap extended mag release! This is my first writeup, so I would like any kind of feedback. Thank You!

Attached Thumbnails

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#361992 my custom nerf loadout

Posted by Ice Nine on 19 November 2017 - 07:23 PM

This is the most beautiful thread posted to NerfHaven in several years. I'm locking it so no one can sully its beauty.

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#361990 my custom nerf loadout

Posted by sterling the superhog on 19 November 2017 - 03:21 PM

this is my nerf loadout with my custom nerf longshot, i sdpent like 12 hours on it, no h8 please  :)





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#360588 Muzzle loading 17th Century Pistol

Posted by Justin Andrews on 15 June 2017 - 03:47 AM

17th Century English Lock Cavalry Pistol (field test prototype).
LARP safe foam firing firelock.

Based on an existing English (or Doglock) pistol, this was a large pistol commonly used by cavalrymen.

The lock is a fully working copy of a flint lock, with both full and half cock positions, as well as a safety at half cock which makes it hard (though not impossible) to fire the pistol, in addition the external sear is movable and can be used to retain the cock.

Fires the same foam ball ammunition as the Larpquebus® with a range of around 9-10 meters, and well under the 1 joule limit (required in the UK to ensure the blaster does not fall under the legal category of lethally barrelled!)

Otherwise its the same general operation as the Muzzle loading Musket (Larpquebus) I posted here a while ago.


Attached Thumbnails

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#358328 1995 Crossbow CAD Files

Posted by CaptainSlug on 02 March 2017 - 11:23 AM

Full K26 version with stock extended by 1.500 inches. Also requires a separate nose piece to hold the end of the plunger tube which had to move 2.500 inches forward beyond the profile of the original shell.


STEP 214: http://captainslug.c...Crossbow95b.zip(1.4mb)

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#354155 Armageddon XVII: SoCal's Largest NIC War (2016)

Posted by CaliforniaPants on 12 June 2016 - 11:30 PM

The second round of freeze tag where Ryan and Jlego chased me around the school and I started a chain reaction that made the game go on for another few minutes was pretty fun. Zorn got some good photos of me turning a baseball slide into a summersault.

I dont have that one, but...

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#353377 Rev-shot Write up

Posted by skullface44 on 09 May 2016 - 08:33 PM



Fist off I would like to say that I am doing this wright up because I have had quite a few people ask me to do it and since there isn't a lot of revshots around and the original wright up is not available anymore  I thought  it would be a good thing to have around. Especially since there is a lot of cheap, safe and good darts that dont hopper that well coming out of china lately i figured a few people might want to build a mag fed homemade again. Secondly  I have to mention that I did not design this blaster, from what I have seen luiec3 is responsible for this blaster . This blaster was purchased from a nerfhaven user (luckydude), although most of the blaster has been re built some of the credit goes to him for building the blaster because it aloud me to study the blaster inside and out,make the changes I thought where necessary and eventually do this wright up. SInce I dont have anything else to reference im going to assume the way I received this blaster was the way they were intended to be. Here is a list the "stock" features and a list of the changes i made. I perceive  them as upgrades but that is just my opinion. The 1.25" Thin wall plunger tube can be substituted with a ERTL PAS plunger tube( witch is even bigger), if you do this use the stock pas plunger head. 


Specs of blaster when recived:


- 1 1/4" pvc plunger tube

- 5" of draw

- brass and cpvc breach going into a  12"petg barrel

- 1 1/2" thinwall pvc pump grip 

- #6-32 hardware 

- rainbow catch 

- omni directional catch 

- U cup+rubber washer seal 

- [k26] spring 


Changes made:


- expanded plunger tube using  1-1/4 thin wall pvc (for a even bigger plunger tube a pas PT can be used) 

- 9/16 brass breach with tightening rings ( 14" barrel ) 

- [k26]+ arrow storm spring 

- spring spacer for more compression 

- stronger catch spring 

- #10-32 bolt for the priming rod 

- Polycarb and delrin angled fore grip added to the pump 

- air release hole in breach for smooth loading 


Matierals needed:


- 1' of 1/2" nylon rod

- 2' of 1.5" thinwallpvc 

- 3' of 1' pvc 

- 5/8" clear thinwall pvc 

- 1"- 1/2" pvc bushing 

- 2' of 1/2 pvc

- 12" of 1 1/4 pvc 

- 3/4" of 1 1/2 sink drain extension pipe 

- #6 1/4" nylon spacers 

- 3' of 1/4"x  1/2" aluminum bar 

- 12x6 1/4" polycarb sheet 

- Any 1/2" thick plastic (i used hdpe )

-  3/8 #6-32 set screws x 4 

- 3/4 #6-32 pan head screws x3

- 1/2" #6-32 pan head screws x 17

- 3/8 #6-32 pan head screws x 8

- #6 washers x7

- 2" #10-32  bolt with matching lock nut

- 6" of 2" Dia. plastic rod ( nylon,delrin or pvc can be used) 

- 1/4" aluminum rod 

- tuck tape

- 6x6 3/4" thick peace of hard wood 

- U cup seal 9691k57

- 1.5" rubber washer 

- 1/2" of 17/32" brass 

- 18" of 9/16" brass 

- 5 3/8"  19/32" brass

- 5 1/8" of 1/2" brass

- 6x12 sheet 1/16" plastic ( I used styrene) 



- #6-32 and #10-32 tap

- drill press

- scrollsaw

- bandsaw

- holesaw

- 7/64" dril bit 

- lathe

- tools for lathe I ground my own out of H.H.S blanks because its cheaper but you can buy them if you want  (boring tool, standard bit,grooving bit)

- vernier calipers 

- screw driver 

- marker 



- pvc primer 

- solvent weld

- epoxy 

- epoxy putty

- hot glue

- super glue 

- goop

- lepage 100% glue or Go2glue



Step 1: The Magewell 


- Here are drawings of the mag well,trigger and support  bar for the mag well. You will need to make 2 of the side plates. These are not templates but you could probably get away with cutting them out. Just measure the drawing when you print it and see if its close to the dimensions.   These parts are made of 1/4" polycarb



magwell drawing .jpg



trigger and mag side .jpg


It will look like this when its done 


mag well .jpg


 make the aluminium  bar before you put the mag well together.  it will help you line everything up correctly. 



Step 2 : Body 


- Cut 20 1/4" of 1 1/2" thinwall pvc. divide the pvc into 8 sections. I like to use one colour for the 1/4s and another for the 1/8ths. mark out the mag well slot by  starting at 7/8" from one side of the pvc and ending at 4 5/8", make it 1" wide and cut with a dremel this will now be the front of the blaster. 




body .jpg



Step 3 : Slots 


- place the body with the mag well facing towards you and mark out the slots. They start at 5 3/4" and end at 10 1/4", make them wide enough so a #10-32 bolt slides freely. Sorry for the bad picture. 


slots .jpg



Step 4 : The breach support  


This is the part you need a lathe for. Get your 2" rod and cut it 1/2 longer then you need it to be, that will give you lots of room to face off the part on both sides and make both faces square. When you are making these parts make sure to have a scrap peace of the 1 1/2" thinwall pvc with you to check the fit of your parts.adjust  the size of these two parts to what ever you need, they should be able to fit into your pvc easily but not be able to slide too much. Wile your at the lathe go ahead and make the aluminum support  bar for the mag well too.  Im sure there are other ways to do this though. I drew a quick sketch of the parts 



magwell lathed parts drawing .jpg


They will look like this when you are done 


brach support (back).jpg


front support.jpg









Step 5 : The catch 


Make a standard rainbow catch. Templates can be found here: http://nerfhaven.com.../20330-rainbow/


now cut a  5" peace of 1 1/4" pvc and screw the rainbow catch in place using set screws. it should look like this when you are done 




Rap e tap around the tube until it fits in the 1 1/2" thinwall pvc 


Now line up the catch tube so its flush with the back of the 1 1/2" pvc body and mark where the catch hole need to be. Now drill a hole where your mark lines up with the the next 1/4 line over from the line you make one of the slots on. This will now be the bottom of the blaster.


catch alingment .jpg




The hole will need to be big enough to let the catch screw slide freely but small enough so the spring has something to rest on. If you mess up and make it too big its not a problem the spring will rest on the 1 1/4" pvc that is nested inside the blaster.  After you have done this put the catch tube in the blaster and screw in the catch screw, this will hold the tube in place for now.



catch spring .jpg



put  3 or 4 screw though the 1 1/2" and 1 1/4" pvc to hold the catch tube in place, make sure to not hit the catch with these screws. The placement of the screws  does not matter but make it look nice 






step 6 : The plunger tube 


Get your 1 1/4" thin wall pvc and cut it to 6". Now get your 1 1/2" sink drain extension pipe and cut a 1/2 peace. Take your 1" to 1/2" pvc bushing and tap with tape until its snug in the drain pipe. Solvent weld the peaces together so the front of the bushing is flush with the 1 1/2" drain pipe. Now get a stub of 1/2 pvc and solvent weld it into the bushing.  Next measure 3/4" from the front of the part and cut( make sure its dry first). It should look like this when you are done 








Now that you have your 3/4" long plunger cap  solvent weld it into the 1 1/4 thin wall plunger tube so it is flush with the front. After it is cured drill a 5//32" hole 3/8"from the front of the plunger tube, make sure its going straight through.  It should look like this when you are done. 


plunger tube .jpg



Step 7 : The breach 


The sized of brass used will depend on if you make a 17/32" barrel or a 9/16" barrel. I used 9/16". First measure out 17" of  your barrel material ( i used 9/16"). next measure 4 1/4" from one end of the brass and mark with a sharpie. Now draw a line around half of the brass then draw two straight lines to the end of the brass. Shade in the area and cut it out, i Used a band saw with a metal blade but a dremel  works just as well.  It will look like this when you are done 




I lost the pictures for this part but its very easy. Cut 10 1/2" of 1/2" pvc and 1" pvc then glue the 1/2" pvc into the 1" pvc so 2 1/2" of the 1/2" pvc is sticking out of one end of the 1" pvc. You may need to sand don the 1/2" pvc. Once it has cured take your brass barrel and glue it into the 1/2" pvc so that the end of the barrel is flush with the 1/2" pvc sticking out of the 1" pvc. Make sure to add tightening rings to the brass (if you want to ) before you glue it in. It should look like this when you are done. 


barrel .jpg


Next we are going to make the bolt and pusher, if you are using a 9/16 barrel like me you will need 19/32" brass and 1/2 brass.  Cut 5 3/8" of your 19/32" brass and 5 1/8" of your 1/2 brass. now cut 1/2" of your 17/32" brass and  9/16" brass. Now super glue the 17/32" brass into the 9/16" brass then super glue that onto one end of the 1/2" brass this is now your pusher . after you have done this carefull drill a 2 7/64" holes anywhere in the 1/2 pusher, make sure to debur the holes. These holes will prevents a vacuum forming  behind the dart then it is being loaded. Next take your 19/32 brass and super glue it onto the pusher. Your bolt is now done. I used a peace of 5/8" brass to bridge the gap between the 19/32" and the 1/2 pvc but you can use e-tap if you dont have any. It will look something like this



Now that you have this peace you can glue it into the plunger tube. Make sure none of it sticks out on the inside of the plunger tube. I used Lepage 100% glue for this because its strong but flexible, if your in the states this is called go2glue. Once it is cured you can carefully drill though the brass using the holes that you already drilled in the pvc plunger tube. To make sure everything is air tight put a ring of glue (goop or Lepage 100% glue/go2glue) around the bottom of the brass and let it cure, next put a layer of glue all over the front of the plunger tube. I dont have a pic of this sorry. 




Step 8: The pump grip 


Take your aluminum bar and cut two 14 1/4" peaces. Make sure one end is nice and square and round off one end.  Now cut a 3 1/3" peace of 1 1/4" pvc and 1 1/2" pvc and nest them together, you will need to rap the smaller size with e-tape. Now  on the rounded side of the bars drill a 3/16" hole though both bars, to make sure the hole is in the same spot on both bars i like to tape them together with some packing tape.  next drill 3 --- holes on the square side of the bars, i drilled them 1/4" apart.  Now that you have done that put everything aside, the holes that will allow the bars to be attached to the pvc are drilled later.  This would be a good time to make a grip for your pump if you want to. Mine looked like this when i was done 



Step 9: the plunger 


Get your 1/2" nylon rod and cut it to 10 1/2" next make your catch notch 5 1/4" back from one end of the rod (it must be omni directional). This one was cut on a lathe.  If you do use a lathe, center drill one end and then drill a 17/64" hole about 3/4" deep then tap with a 6-32 tap.


plunger catch .jpg



Now get your 1/4 polycarb( 1/4" hdpe works too) and cut 3 disks, two disks using a 1 3/8" hole saw and the other with a 1 1/8" hole saw. Once you have that done get your u cup and put the small disk in the center of it then the two other ones sandwiching it the screw it onto your plunger rod.I have a 1 1/2" rubber washer under my u-cup but its not necessary.   I padded mine with some craft foam and a rubber washer.


plunger head.jpg


I made a spacer for more spring compression out of 1/2" pvc and cpvc and come 3/4" pvc but its not necessary. It helps performance quite a bit in my opinion though. 


Step 10: handel 


Cut 2 1/4" of 1 1/4" pvc, chamfer both ends then cut the top off. This cut does not need to be perfect it will be cleaned up later. Do not take a lot off though, just enough to give you room to screw in the handle. You can make the handle any shape you want, I made a simple one out of oak. Attach the handle using 3 drywall or wood screws, i like to us 1/2 screws on the outside holes and a 1" screw in the middle. I also put some epoxy around the joint between the wood and pvd to smooth it out but its not necessary. Stain or paint the handle how ever you want, I just rapped e tape around mine. It will look something like this when you are done 


handel .jpg


Step 11: The stock 


Cut a peace of 1 1/2" pvc how ever long you want then cut a peace of 1 1/4" pvc the same size. Glue the 1 1/4" into the 1 1/2 then glue that into the elbow. It will look like this when its done 




Step 12: trigger housing


 Cut three disks that will fit snugly in 1" pvc  from you 1/2" plastic , I used a small peace of 1" pvc to trace the inside of the pipe onto the plastic.  Next cut a 14" peace of 1" pvc. Cut the top off of the 1' pvc your taking about a little bit more then 1/4 of the pipe off. The goal of this is to have it sit nicely onto the 1 1/2" pvc body. Now put your disks indie the 1" and mark how much need to be taken off of them for everything to sit nicely onto the 1 1/2 pvc. After you have done that cut a slot on the bottom of the pvc, it will start 1" from the end and finish 2 1/2" from the end,this will allow the trigger to slide.  Now take the disks out of the 1" pvc and cut groves in the bottom of them big enough to let the trigger slide though them. Next cut a small triangle out of polycarbonate, this may take few tries to get right, I dont have measurements for you sorry. Secure the triangle into one of the disks using a small pin, the triangle  must be able to move, it will be what pushes on the catch screw. Here a some pictures of mine, if this does not make sense watch the video that is linked at the end of the wright up. 


cut trigger houseing .jpg


trigger brakets .jpg



Step 13: assembly 


Get your front magwell and insert it into the blaster, next get your front breach support peace and insert it into the front of the blaster, it should be pretty much flush with the pvc. Secure the front breach support with 3/8" 6/32 screws, i used 4. Next get your back breach support and slide it in the back of the blaster until it fits into the other side of the magwell. Next you slide your plunger tube with the plunger and springs in it into the back of the blaster, make sure you lube the plunger up well.  Next screw in your catch tube into the back of the blaster, you want your plunger rod to be sicking out of the catch by at least a 1/4" but no more then 1". Your should have something that looks like this now. 


plunger rod in catch.jpg


here is a pic of how the internals are in the blaster 


guts .jpg


Now screw on the trigger housing and stock. The trigger housing is supported by the magwell and the straps. Screw on the stock using one long screw at the bottom of the stock, you want the screw you go though the trigger housing, this will make sure it does not move backwards.  


back end .jpg


The last thing to do it to put the pump on, get your 2" 10-32 bolt and screw on the aluminum bars with it and secure with a lock nut on the other side, you do not want to over tighten this. Next slide the pump onto the front of the blaster and screw it to the aluminum bars. You can play around with the location a bit but make sure you can prime the blaster. 




 Here is a pic of what mine looks like 


Rev shot .jpg


A link to a video with a fireing test, range test, trigger demo and some ideas on how to now use a lathe will be up shortly. Thank you for reading, hope this helps. Questions are welcome 


Link: https://www.youtube....h?v=35TzVKIyOp0

Attached Thumbnails

  • pump grip .jpg
  • trigger houseing done .jpg
  • brass barrel .jpg
  • asembled mag well .jpg
  • assebled barrel.jpg
  • trigger.jpg
  • recever notch.jpg

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#353254 Musket Homebuild.

Posted by Justin Andrews on 05 May 2016 - 07:05 AM

I've been lurking here a while, and first off I'd like to thank the long time posters here, who's posts have helped me design this build. Especially the Rainbow guys for their remarkable catch mechanism.

I'd like to share a slightly different design, which is a musket style homemade designed for use in fairly authentic Medieval LARP games, rather than NERF wars and is based around the NERF Rival ammo.

The design is based around the need to use a ramrod, which is passed down the barrel, and then used to push down and prime the piston, which uses a slightly modified rainbow style catch at the rear of the barrel. The round is then dropped down the barrel, and pushed home with the ramrod. Finally a small amount of talcum powder is poured down the barrel, and a toy cap is fitted just behind the air cylinder.

When the gun is fired, the catch in the rod leaves the rainbow catch, and is caught at the end of the piston travel on a ring, this then activates the cap (making the musket go Bang!) the ball is fired along with the talc (making a plume of smoke) 

Its neither quick to load, or very long ranged, but this is what we were aiming for, as we want them to simulate the loading and effective range of a real 15th Century Arquebus/Musket.

Anyway, if people are interested, I can post some pictures of the internals later, and perhaps a video of it working.


Trigger mechanism

The bit what goes bang, also showing machined barrel connector

Some of the internals on display


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#353080 PCSR: A new homemade design

Posted by Aeromech on 26 April 2016 - 09:50 PM

Intentional necro to alert those interested of relevant information. Files are up. Instructions/complete parts list will be made available as the night rolls on


Linky linky --> https://drive.google...WG8tOGxPNHJ4WnM

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