Jump to content


deaddumpster

Member Since 16 Jun 2007
Offline Last Active Sep 15 2017 10:38 AM

Topics I've Started

A New Petg Breech

18 March 2010 - 03:16 PM

Now, this is not new at all. I discovered it a little over a year ago now and I thought it would be a good idea to share it with the world. Some of you may recall my SM500 at Massacre 3, which had this breech in it.

What you will need:
- PETG from OMC (Length depends on what blaster you plan on using it in)
- 1/2" Sch. 40 PVC (Same length as your PETG)
- 2" of 5/8" brass
- A 1/2" PVC coupler
- Adhesive of your choice (I used good ol' Goop and Fishin' glue)
- Electrical tape
- Pipe cutters
- A hobby knife
- A rotary tool
- A cutting wheel for said rotary tool, strong enough to cut brass
- A 5/8" diameter grinding wheel, also for the rotary tool
- A rubber mallet
- Sandpaper (To make your cuts smooth)
- Needlenose pliers )Optional, but extremely useful)
- Measuring tape
- Sharpie to mark where you plan on cutting


Measure 1.5" down from one end of your PVC pipe. Take your Sharpie and put a dot on the 1.5" mark. From that point, measure out 2" or so (Slightly longer than your Stefans). Draw a line along the 2" and trace out the rest of the half-pipe:
Posted Image

Bust out your rotary tool (Or what ever you use to cut) and cut along the lines. Try to clean it up with a hobby knife and sandpaper:
Posted Image

Now, take that piece of 5/8" brass and measure 1.5". Mark it down and then put another dot about 1/2" ahead of it:
Posted Image

Take your pipe cutters and put two or three tightening rings in the 1/5" piece. Be careful, and check the fit on the PETG often. You want it to have a good seal, but you also want to easily pull it out as well. Once you're done, put a very light ring around the 1/2" long piece:
Posted Image

Cut where you marked:
Posted Image

Take the 5/8" grinding/sanding wheel and sand out the PVC ALMOST up to the half-pipe. Be very careful and try not to make the hole too wide:
Posted Image

Take your rubber mallet and hammer it in until the brass is almost flush with the PVC. Be sure to use a rubber mallet, or else the brass will deform when you hammer it:
Posted Image

If you have made it this far, awesomesauce work. Now we're going to go to the other side of your PVC pipe. Cut about 2" off that end with your pipecutters:
Posted Image

Get your mallet again and hammer the PVC completely through the PVC coupler. An alternative would be to just sand out the ring in the middle of the coupler, but I was lazy:
Posted Image

Take your e-tape and wrap it around one end of your PETG. Apply Goop and put your PVC+coupler over it:
Posted Image
Posted Image
Leave it to dry.

Once again, go to the side opposite the half-pipe. This time, use your 5/8" wheel and sand about 1/4" in:
Posted Image

Place the 1/2" long piece of 5/8" brass in:
Posted Image

Get your mallet and hammer it flush with the PVC. This will keep the PETG barrel from flying out when the breech is opened:
Posted Image

Take your two parts and put them together:
Posted Image

Sm1500 Turret Improvements

15 July 2009 - 08:43 PM

I used my 1500 at Applefury's war last week. It outranged most of the guns there, but reloading irritated the FUCK outta me. I got home and immediately opened up the turret. this is the result.

The two goals were to make 1500 turrets rear-loading, and to have absolutely no air loss in the turret.

Materials needed:

- 1500 turret.
- 1/2" drill bit or a Dremel bit of the same size.
- Barrel material of your choice.
- Some sort of rubber washer (I just cut down an EaB plunger head, but whatev)
- Adhesive of your choice.
- Glue gun.
- Hot glue sticks.
- E-tape.
- Claw hammer or flathead screwdriver. If it pries, it'll work.

Let's get to the mod, shall we?


Pry apart the turret. A pic really ain't needed, just pry at the spring rest:
Posted Image


Bust out yo' 1/2" drill (Or rotary tool!) bit and drill out the barrels. Make the holes as centered as possible. I cleaned it up with a hobby knife after this pic was taken:
Posted Image


Take the other half of the turret and drill out holes with the same 1/2" bit. I ended up using a 5/8" Dremel bit for this, so it's cleaner and easier to load:
Posted Image


Now take four sections of your barrel material of choice and wrap E-tape about 1" from one side. Stuff them in the 1500's barrels and make sure they're flush with the back end:
Posted Image
If your barrels don't fall out when they're turned upside down then you know you have put on enough E-tape. If they fall out, wrap more on until the fit is nice and snug.


Shove FBR (Or something of the like) in the barrels and apply Goop (Or whatever adhesive you use):
Posted Image


Once the glue is dried, remove the FBR and fill in empty space with hot glue. Once that is dry, cut it flush with your barrels:
Posted Image
Posted Image


Now, take the other half of the turret and sand down the rotation mech piece. Once the metal rod and spring are back in place and the turret is reassembled it will be nice and centered, so don't worry about it wobbling at all:
Posted Image

Take your adhesive of choice (I used Goop, which seemed to work out beautifully) and glue one side of your rubber washer/sheet with hole in it/ EaB plunger head. As long as it seals with the other half of the turret and can rotate well, it'll work:
Posted Image

Once the glue is dried, lube up the rubber piece (So the turret can rotate better), close up the turret and you're done!

Glue is drying at the moment, but just by putting the turret together, plugging one end and blowing down the other I can see a major improvement in the seal. By major improvement, I mean airtight or damn close to it.

Best of all, IT'S REAR-LOADING! I'll have a pic of the finished product and ranges up whenever I'm not feeling so lazy. This is being integrated into something Effeminate, and I'm not sure when I will unveil it.
... Motherfuckers.

Commlink Ii

22 October 2008 - 02:42 PM

I received one of these blasters from Badger at APOC (by the way, thank you) and fell in love with it. There was just some badass aura surrounding it, which may be due in part to the fact that OMC bought it's sibling (though it was sold to Keef not long ago).

I planned a multi-part modification which I have put off since I got back home from the US. Now, I've been hit with the flu and I have nothing better to do with my spare time, so here we go.

You will need:
- A Commlink II
- 6" of PETG (or barrel material of your choice)
- Plumber's Goop
- Glue gun
- Triangle Screwdriver (not sure what it's called)
- A Dremel, though you can make do with a File and Pliers

Obviously, the first step is to open it up. Don't forget about the screw under the back sticker and the one under the battery case:
Posted Image


Here's some pics of the internals:
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image
Check out the crappy little walkie-talkie in it, useless:
Posted Image
Unscrew the screws holding it down and pull the whole thing out:
Posted Image



Now, here's a pic of the plunger assembly removed:
Posted Image

Here's the plunger rod disassembled:
Posted Image

The spring on it is good, but it isn't all that great by itself, and it isn't long enough for the plunger draw to be increased. I don't have any replacement springs long enough, so I had to use another stock one. The second spring is the one on the bottom:
Posted Image
Both on the plunger rod:
Posted Image

The seal is kind've crappy, but E-Tape solves that:
Posted Image


My next step was to increase the plunger draw, but to do that we must make room for the plunger tube further up in the shell:
Posted Image
Remember to do this on both shell pieces.


Wrap some E-Tape around the stub on the end of the barrel, just enough to fit a new barrel on snug. As you can see I filed out the inside a tad to increase the air output by a small amount:
Posted Image
Posted Image



Cover the Tape and the base of the plunger tube in Goop and fit your 6" barrel of choice *CoughPETGCough* on. Let it dry:
Posted Image

Once the Goop is dried, put a glob of it about 2" from the end of the plunger tube and fit the stock barrel over it. This will give it a nice fit in the shell and will protect most of the PETG. Looks kind've sexy too:
Posted Image


Once everything is dried, fit the entire assembly back into the shell. This is a bitch to do simply because the springs are very long and they compress almost halfway when against the shell. You basically will have to hold the assembly in place as you glue it down:
Posted Image
Glue the shit out of it. I put large amounts of Goop and hot glue on the plunger tube and barrel to hold it in the shell:
Posted Image
Posted Image

Close it back up, I chose not to do a screw replacement, but would recommend doing it:
Posted Image

Ranges were taken in my backyard, flat, with a bungee (red one shown in the picture) and five 1.5" Stefans made with FA's Beige foam and 3/0 fishing weights.

77'
81'
74'
79'
83'

Note that it is Canada in the middle of the Fall season, so things are cooling down quite a bit. If tests were done on the warm, sunny day then they would increase by approximately 5 feet. I also think that since I used two stock Nerf springs, ranges were lacking. I am going to go the hardware store to try and find an industrial spring for the future.

This is an ongoing project, I am working on part two and I will post it when I am done, which will be in the next week or so. I am mainly trying to make this a primary-worthy blaster, so all future upgrades on this will be mainly for an edge on the battlefield.

Titan Modification

07 August 2008 - 07:32 PM

Now, I know that singled Titans are always banned at wars and I can see why. Of course, they are just too much fun dicking around in your backyard with. Since my yard is somewhere around 120' from house to fence, I can just hit Coke cans and shitty CDs while I'm bored.

One thing I didn't like about the Titan is it's reload time. *20 pumps, insert dart in barrel, ramrod dart, pull trigger, repeat* was just getting annoying. Of course there's no easy way around the pumping, so I decided to make loading easier.

This is all VERY simple and can be done easily if you follow the instructions. I'm not sure if this has been done before, but I searched and couldn't find anything.

Materials:
- A Titan
- A Dremel
- A Hacksaw, sandpaper and a file if you do not have a Dremel
- An Exacto knife
- 1' or more of 9/16" brass
- 1' or more of 17/32" brass
- Glue of choice (I use Plumber's Goop)
- Hot glue gun (if you're planning on plugging the pump)
- A roll of E-tape
- 1' or more of 1/2" Sch. 40 PVC
- Safety glasses (you will be cutting PVC and brass, I would recommend it)


Okay, first remove the stock "barrel" (it should unscrew, if not cut it in half) and cut down about 1/4" of the threaded piece:

Posted Image

Bust out your Dremel and sand it out until it can fit 1/2" PVC well (PVC won't be in it, but you shall see):

Posted Image

Take your 17/32" brass section and cut out a half-pipe about 1.5" from one of the ends. Wrap E-tape around said end until it fits snug into the threaded stub. Tightening rings might be useful too:

Posted Image

Now, find that piece of 1/2" PVC I mentioned in the materials list. Cut out a 3.5" section at one end, this will be the outer protective barrel of your Titan:

Posted Image

About 3" from the other end of the pipe, Dremel out a small strip so you can attach a dowel or something of the like to simplify the opening of the breech. Note that I cleaned it up and widened it slightly after this was taken:

Posted Image

Take your section of 9/16" brass and wrap E-tape around one end until it fits nicely into the PVC (No particular length, E-tape thickness varies). This isn't for sealing or gluing, just to keep it all centered in the PVC:

Posted Image

Put the 9/16" over the 17/32" so that the e-taped ends are on opposite sides. insert the new barrel in the PVC to see how well it looks/fits:

Posted Image

Remove it and pull out your Plumber's Goop. Put glue on the E-taped end of the 17/32" and insert it into the Titan barrel stub:

Posted Image

Let it all dry and then put the 9/16" brass over it. Fit on the PVC sheath and apply some strong glue to where it meets the Titan barrel stub (Goop might work, but just to be safe I added a bit of Crazy Glue so it would hold):

Posted Image
Posted Image

Now take a small piece of dowel or the like and sand down a curve on one end so it fits nicely on to the 9/16" brass:

Posted Image

Glue it on and check out your finished product. Reload time will increase and you can plug the pump if you want to (I did, but I just wanted power out of it). I hope you children weren't expecting much, combined time it took to do this was about an hour and a half.

Ranges are typical:
152'
154'
163'
169'
161'
153'
162'
168'
159'
163'

1604'

Average: 160.4'


Again, nothing special, just a fun little side project while I work on my latest killing machine. I sold this fucker to a friend about two weeks ago (it's not that new) for $50, so I'm happy I did it. I also got this Titan at Goodwill for $0.50, so it's well worth it.

Recon Modification

27 May 2008 - 08:31 PM

The Recon is one of the newer additions to the N-Strike line. Not as good as it's predecessor, the Longshot, but still half-assed for indoor wars. I decided to try my hand at my buddy's Recon, and it turned out like this.

You will need:
- A Recon
- A screwdriver
- Brass or PETG
- Glue of choice
- E-Tape
- Teflon tape
- A straw from a fast food restaurant or a pen body
- Hot glue gun and sticks
- Stock barrel from a Titan or PVC or whatever you use to hold the extra spring in the back of the gun
- Dremel
- Knife

Step One- Open the damned thing:

Posted Image

Now, pull out the plunger tube and wrap E-Tape or whatever around the end to compress the spring more:

Posted Image

Step Two- Take out the plunger, breech and push out the pin holding the two pieces together:

Posted Image

Cut off about 2" of the end of the breech so there's a larger half pipe:

Posted Image

Dremel out the inside so you can fit your new barrel in:

Posted Image

Take our your glue of choice (I used Goop) and glue that barrel in. Wipe away excess glue and clamp it together, leave it to dry:

Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image

Once it's dried, cut the new barrel to the shape of the stock breech:

Posted Image

Step Three- Dead space, there's a lot of it. This is what helps kill the range in the Recon. I got this idea from Dragonteuthis's Maverick Mod, take a straw, pen body or any other cylindrical item of the type. I used a pen body:

Posted Image

Wrap the end in E-Tape so it fits in the space in the plunger:

Posted Image

Put a bit of Goop on it and put it into the dead space, a bit should stick out the top:

Posted Image

Fill the space in with hot glue and cut it flush with the plunger head:

Posted Image

Wait for post #2 before posting, damn picture limit.


Step Four- Improving the seal and Re-Assembly. I removed the O-Ring and wrapped teflon tape under it before putting it back on and spraying some lube on it. This teflon tape is actually pink, but the silicon spray turns it red:

Posted Image

Here's a pic of the modded plunger:

Posted Image

Place everything back in the gun:

Posted Image

Screw it together and gather your remaining materials.

Step Five- Extra spring. While test firing, I found that the pen body caused a smaller air output and the weak spring wasn't helping at all, neither was the friction from the O-Ring. First, I cut the back off of the end cap type piece to accomodate for the new spring (compressed it's about an inch long):

Posted Image

I then screwed it back into the gun and E-Taped it so that the Titan barrel (Or PVC if you use that) fits snugly:

Posted Image

Cut 3.25" off of the Titan barrel, including the front AR:

Posted Image

Place the spring in the back, I used an RF20 spring (extremely powerful):

Posted Image

Glue the Titan barrel or PVC on to the back of the spring and let it dry, maybe add some epoxy-putty to hold it all together:

Posted Image

You're done, just wait for the glue to dry before taking test shots. Choose the barrel that fits your darts best, I just don't think CPVC will work.

Ranges: waiting for glue to dry but it seemed to have a lot of power behind it when I held the Titan barrel to it and fired.

This seems to be a nice way to squeeze a lot of range out of your Recon, at least until I finish the Angel Breech in it.

I'm off to lurk...