Old school NERF = YES.
Man, I thought I was all alone in my air-pressure world. Just about all of my air guns (6 SuperMaxx 1500s, 4 SuperMaxx 3000s, 3-4 AirTech 3000s) all died because of OTHER users who didn't follow my instructions for responsible use.
One of my 1500's (internals) has been in THREE different configurations (integrated to a SM 3000, integrated into a Sawtooth, now going back into a new-version 1500 shell), and has never leaked or cracked. My current air-powered primary (old-version 1500) has AT2000 internals for power with little difference in performance.
Good stuff, Oldschool.
-Piney-
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Pineapple
Member Since 11 Jan 2003Offline Last Active Feb 26 2012 08:17 PM
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- Member Title Old-school Admin
- Age 100 years old
- Birthday September 19, 1924
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In Topic: Small Soldiers With Relief Valve Mod
16 May 2009 - 03:11 PM
In Topic: Spackling Instead Of Bondo?
05 May 2009 - 03:34 PM
Most spackling compounds (like DAP brand) are for filling in slight defects in drywall and wood before priming and painting. They are made to be easy to sand and feather out, so generally they're pretty weak as far as durability for something that's going to get abused as much as a Nerf blaster.
Boltsn!per's first FAR might have had something different, but the industry standard is that spackle is good for filling holes in your walls, but I would NOT use it for gaps and body work on blasters.
I'd use either Bondo brand resin body filler, or 2-part epoxy paste, or even the pliable epoxy "clay" in two part formulation; those will give you durability matching or exceeding that of the plastic. Only thing, it's a total biotch to sand and smooth out (unless you have the shape pretty much down while it's still setting).
Heck, I've even used hot glue in bulk to fill some gaps. I try to smooth it out with a wet finger before it sets up.
-Piney-
Boltsn!per's first FAR might have had something different, but the industry standard is that spackle is good for filling holes in your walls, but I would NOT use it for gaps and body work on blasters.
I'd use either Bondo brand resin body filler, or 2-part epoxy paste, or even the pliable epoxy "clay" in two part formulation; those will give you durability matching or exceeding that of the plastic. Only thing, it's a total biotch to sand and smooth out (unless you have the shape pretty much down while it's still setting).
Heck, I've even used hot glue in bulk to fill some gaps. I try to smooth it out with a wet finger before it sets up.
-Piney-
In Topic: Solder Stand Spring?
14 April 2009 - 09:55 PM
You know those Soldering Gun stands that use a spring to hold the soldering gun in place?
I was wondering if those spring were applicable to nerf?
I don't think those coils were ever intended to be a "spring" of sorts. It's simply to keep you from burnin' mommy's kitchen table with yer iron. Or your hands, come to think of it.
Have you one of those stands? Maybe you should take it apart, take that coil, try it out, and report back how well it works in your blaster.
-Piney-
In Topic: Eagle Eye
14 April 2009 - 09:51 PM
It looks like it would make a perfect siderm.
It does, doesn't it?
Don't do this again.
-Piney-
In Topic: Guru Mk. iii
25 March 2009 - 01:23 AM
It's going to GROOVE?!The splitfire is getting 3/4" OD 5/8" ID polyester tubing. Groove can nest his barrel of choice in it later.This is ridiculous. Slug, what's your barrel material? I like the frosty look it has, whatever it is.
Oh, that's why it's "Guru 3". Slug, you keep makin' em more wild each invention/scratch build.
Over the top. I've known that we have the best, but yeah, we've really got the best minds here. All of you guys.
I thought my "new" 1500 was pretty bitchin. It's not. I'm stuck on old-school I suppose.
-Piney-
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