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The lord of fish

Member Since 27 Nov 2010
Offline Last Active May 24 2019 02:46 PM

Topics I've Started

ZombieStrike Stormfire Plunger Replacement

24 August 2014 - 05:27 PM

Preface: I stopped building guitars as I found the atmosphere to be pretty negative. My earlier posts reflected such negativity and as much as I'd like to apologize for the asshattery, its a few years too late. Now I'm back to just doing cad for hire.

I never saw/used the original dart tag stormfire. Its a night finder with much improved ergonomics and no gimmicky light. It's also a good deal bigger.

Materials needed:
Epoxy/Super glue/ solvent weld
1x Everbilt spring (or a spring of your choice IE cutdown [k26])
1x 1" drain plug
1x 1" small screw
1x 3/4" to 1/2" PVC reducer/bushing
1x 1 1/4" drain extension.
A fine tooth saw, or your favorite cutting tool.
a screw driver.

Optional:
some grub screws
thread locker
and a drill bit that corresponds with whatever grub screws you bought.

It comes with a gimmicky acog looking hollow tube of a scope. I threw that away. Stock I was hitting about 40 feet barely.
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First start by unscrewing the orange muzzle cap
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Then unscrew the slide.
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Now unscrew the gun, the catch spring might fly out, so be careful.
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Remove the internals, and sand the muzzle end of the shell until there are no more ridges
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Now unscrew, and take apart the plunger head.
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take your drain plug and cut the keyring tab off with a razor or sharp knife. I punched a hole in the center with my screw driver.
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slip the bottom section of the stock plunger head into the drain plug.
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Slide your everbilt spring and then screw the new plunger head on using a small screw, I used a 1" wood screw.
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Cut the shell along these lines, right before the top rail thickens for nstrike attachments, and along the gray horizontal.
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Cut the drain tube to 4"
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Apply silicone grease/ your lube of choice and slide it over the plunger rod. Then glue the plunger tube directly to one side of the shell.
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You can close it all up now. I like the slide over the standard pull handle of a NF, so I kept it on, otherwise you could leave the slide off and attach a key ring if you fancy.
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With a 5" cpvc barrel I was hitting between 85 and 93 feet out of 4 shots.

I'd recommend screwing the plunger tube to the shell as well, but I didn't have the materials. My old NF rifles from 2011 have held up being solvent welded to one side of the shell, but mechanical attachment is definitely more convenient and allows for easier maintenance

Tek 4

29 July 2011 - 02:24 AM

I went on a quest to buy a bunch of blasters that most people turn their heads away. My journey started with the tek 4. I also wanted to cram in as many mods as I could before I leave for 4 weeks. I also apologize to anyone I may have insulted, I mean no harm.

Materials needed:
Glue of choice
cpvc coupler
pliers


stock it has a manual rotating turret, and shoots a pitiful 15 feet. I was expecting to see at1k internals  
Open your tek 4 up,  Wow thats much different then a at1k.
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Heres the plunger, Its rather interesting.
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the seal on my turret sucked, I'll try turreting my other one, so snip it off.
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The end of the plunger tube should now look like this:
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Glue a coupler on
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Finished internals
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Closed up: Posted Image
It vaguely reminds me of the phoenix in perfect dark, but only ever so slightly

ranges(with the darts included are averaging in the mid 40's with an occasional dart that lands in the low 50's. This is in feet, not temperature.
This blaster is not something that should be called crap, its not amazing but its getting 50 foot ranges with stefans, theres 2 in a pack and its only 10 dollars (can be found on clearance for way cheaper).  I'll try later with the other one.

NF with wooden grip.

19 June 2011 - 11:22 PM

So after the wooden rod on the cockfinder wore down, I wanted something slightly more practical. Its going to be very much the same as the other writeup, so feel free to go back and look at that one. I'm sort of saving my nicer wood for instruments, and I found a 2x4 with some holes drilled in it. If I were to do this again with the intent on this looking good, I'd probably choose something else. Also its sort of a WIP

Materials needed:
A 2x4
a really hacked up NF shell
band saw
epoxy
wood strength hotglue
2 inch ID PETG
a cheapie balloon pump (once again see Makeitgo's balloon finder)
1' of 3/8 square nylon rod.
a scrap piece of 1/2" cpvc.

So heres what you need.
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the 2x4 will be your stock, Don't do what I did, just cut it so you have a stock and grip, then cut a U channel out to fit your cut down NF shell
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cut your shell like so:
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First epoxy it on, then use copious amounts of wood specialized hot glue (which is probably just normal hotglue)
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Now move onto your plunger rod, take the balloon pump head and drill a hole in the center, then screw it into the nylon rod.
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Cut a few notches, I went from 3 inches to 4 (from the plunger head) for a total of 3 notches with odd spacing. Now take a steel washer that has ID of 1/2" or greater and cut it like so
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Slide it on your plunger rod
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For the plunger tube, cut a 12" piece of 2" PETG, and cut a slot in the back thats about 2" deep. Then screw that to the sides of the NF nerf symbols. At this point you can attach a foregrip to help support the plunger tube.
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Assemble everything
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I need to do some sanding and some wood putty work in a few places, but its functionally working. Its ugly as balls right now, but I'll work on it tomorrow.
Shoots 120's,  the cock finder had a bad seal, I fixed that by using the proper lube(not dry teflon).

I'll update later with the finished product, its kinda late.

Nite Finder 3foot PT replacement

17 June 2011 - 04:29 PM

I make instruments for a living now, and don't have time for nerf. Most of my guns are gone, but I still have a bunch of shells. In no way should you bring one of these to a war, this is mostly just for fun.

Materials needed:
cheapie dual action balloon pump (see makeitgo's balloon finder)
2" ID PETG (I used a broken fish tank python)
3/8" square rod (I used white oak)
some small set screws
2" of 1/2" PVC
2.5 [k26] springs
ace #2 spring
hot glue and gun

Grab a NF shell, I had a clear one. It needs to have a catch, a trigger and well the shell..
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Cut to the spring rest and right above the second ridge on the trigger (yes you are cutting down the trigger)
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Mark on your PETG where the shell touches the tube, and cut about 2" into the PETG
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test fit it, it should slide over the nerf signs, giving you plenty of room to attach it with set screws
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Moving over to the soon to be plunger head. I had used a balloon pump head as a plunger head on my longshot Xbow. simply pull/ or snip it off
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take the O ring out and you will notice this gap, that will not be good for our seal, so fill it up with hot glue and foam.
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snip the tabs on the pump head
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Now rough up the PVC and the plunger head, and apply some CA glue, clamp it and let it set.
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Dump about a 1/2 a stick of hot glue into the PVC, and jam the 3/8" square rod, trying to keep it centered.
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now drill, and screw in 4 set screws, be careful if you are using wood, you dont want it to split.
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Now make your catch slots, I set mine about 6-7" back from the PVC. they should be no more than 1/8" deep.
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Slide your springs on, and re assemble.
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almost full compression.
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Shoots way too far, can't be shouldered, but its worth it. I don't have a barrel long enough for it at the moment, so I used a really long RSCB to compensate for the massive amount of air this puts out and a 14" barrel. Shoots further than my BBUMB.
Is this necessary? No shit its not. but definitely scores big on the "Whatthefuckisthatandwhyisitsobig" scale.

Stampede Motor Replacement

28 December 2010 - 07:58 PM

Materials needed:
A precise caliper
A high torque airsoft motor ( I salvaged mine off my broken CA M4, but you can buy good motors for cheap on airsoft websites like Evike)
A way to power the motor
soldering iron/wand
a vice
file.

Opening up the gun and head to the motor, unscrew it from its brace and de-solder the connection points. then using a small flat head screw driver, pry the stock gear off the motor shaft. Save this. If your airsoft motor's shaft does not fit the gear, thats fine, attach the airsoft motor to power and put it in a vice, apply gentle pressure to the motor shaft with a file. cut the airsoft motor's shaft to the same length as the stock motor. Check periodically to ensure that you don't file too much. My airsoft motor had a shaft 8/64ths wide, I filed it down to about 6.5/64ths and used the vice to force the shaft into the gear. From there on its simple, solder the guns wires to the motor and slap it in, the stock rubber that holds the stock motor in place makes the airsoft motor have a very tight friction fit, however A brace should be made. You should now be able to increase the load of the voltage and spring, but not too much or else you will melt/crack the plastic gears.

I understand this isn't really much of a writeup, but I have a few pictures to show. This is such a simple modification that I doubt it really needs pictures.
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Stampede with new motor

The stock motor is strong, but not strong enough for my needs, I went to radio shack and bought a motor with close dimensions but with more RPM. The radio shack motor did have more rpm, but did not have sufficient torque to even pull the stock spring back. Do not buy the radio shack one for this.
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Internals with the new motor.
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Metal gears would be ideal, but that would turn this 45$ plastic toy into a something much more expensive since custom machined gears are expensive. I slapped a cut down [k26] into my stampede (this mod was done 2months ago) and am getting decent ranges, hard to measure since its streamlines. The black primer sucks I know, when it gets paint it will be pretty. I know this isn't much of a writeup, but you should be able to follow along.