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Kalentar13

Member Since 03 Apr 2007
Offline Last Active Feb 18 2009 03:27 AM

Topics I've Started

Ls Modular, Version 2

11 March 2008 - 11:06 PM

Okay, so I finished this a while ago, but was planning to have more pics of it's capabilites before posting. But coming back from spring break, I read the thread "Thoughts on the LS", and was a little disturbed at how close people were to this design.

Alright, no more blabber. After the relative success of my original modular, of which I only ever designed one attachment, I wanted something more effective. About that time, a friend of mine got a recon, and the idea came to me. I bought a recon, some plexiglass, and all the supplies I needed were assembled.
The design begins simply with the LS. Cut off the bipod and everything up to the flat area on the bottom of the LS.

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When this is done, pick up your plexiglass. you'll need a far amount of precision for this, so a dremel or plexiglass breaking tool is required. I used the thinnest plexi I got, it fits perfectly. Cut the first piece 5 3/4 inches long, and 2 inches wide. the second piece should be the same size. The third should be 5 3/4 inches by 1/2 inch. If, like me, you're impatient, you'll break the 1/2 inch piece, but that still works. Take one of the larger pieces and the skinny one, and find the long axis of both of them. Essentially, you'll be putting the skinny piece along the center of the wider one. Glue them together, making sure they are as close as possible to centered. Let the glue dry, then repeat the process with the second wide piece. When it gets done, you should have the two wide pieces held parallel to each other, sandwiching the skinny piece.
I used this design of plate to attach the Titan barrel to LS in my Prometheus design, so if you want more reference, go read it.
The two wide plates should sandwich the shell of the LS. Odds are you'll want to cut at least some of the plexiglass out to ensure clean movement of the dart tooth. When it's done, you have a very simple and effective plate to mount anything to a LS. But I designed this to be a modular rail for the LS, so onward we go. Form here on, it's quite simple. Dremel the top and bottom rails off the Recon barrel, cut them to length, and glue to the plexiglass plate. I used two rails side by side because I like mounting the stability of it, but a single row would work. Also this lets me put a larger weapon on the LS.
To finish up, take the clips out of the Recon's tactical attachments, an mount them to your favorite small gun. i was lucky enough to acquire several clips from a few recons, and with them I;'ve got a DTG and LS front gun finished, and an RF 20 almost done.
Anyway, I'll add more pictures to this when I get a camera, but these should do for now.

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Thanks:
Dickie
Pyromanaiakal22
TailsChaser
BlackBlade


Yes, this mod is almost completley inversed of TailsChaser's modular, and I do like his. He and I have compared designs, both in IM, and in person comparing systems. We have agreed that his runs for stock guns, and I like it because that is true, while mine is more geared toward the mimimized versions of larger guns.

Ls Titan Integration

26 January 2008 - 05:24 PM

LS/ Titan integration with shotgun foregrip
PROMETHEUS
After seeing Renegadeís tri-barrel titan and The Inventor Guyís integration onto a crossbow, I realized I needed to do something Titan style. So Christmas rolled around, and a group of us all decided to by recons for each other. Only one found a recon, so the rest of us got Titans from Target. I do agree that the Titan is quite fun, especially considering the insane power of the missile, but I wanted something better. The Inventor guy stripped a Titan, put brass barrels in it, and zip tied it to his crossbow. I loved it so much, I decided to do it. But given I donít have the master of all rifles, I looked to my Longshot. A lot of imagination, and I figured out a general plan. Scouring Nerfhaven, I nearly had a heart attack realizing nobody had tried it before. As vice minister of Bad Ideas in the council here, I started work on it.

Here is the finished picture, just to show how shiny it is before you get into the messiness of building it. Iím posting this before I cleaned it up, so there wonít be any electric tape when it gets done.

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But back to basics. Planning and salivating aside, this is the toughest Iíve tried yet, but the most rewarding. Begin with a Longshot.

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This one is not my modular design, but a stock gun. Rip out the AR, Do whatever you do to make it your own. Once thatís over, open it up, and take off the bipod legs. When theyíre gone, take a hobby knife and start cutting off the entire foregrip area.

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This could be done with a dremel, band saw, or anything, but I like the feel of a hobby knife in my hand. Cut along the shown red line, separating the bipod mount and grip from the gun.

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Once youíve finished that, you should have a long flat surface there, perfect for mounting any sorts of interesting stuff.


Now set aside the LS, and pull up your Titan. Regrettably, I donít have any pictures of the titan before I gutted it, but looking at some of the other titan mods should show you what you need. When you get it right, you should have just the air tank, barrel, and pump left.


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Start by removing the red ring in front of the Air tank, it just causes problems on mine, so I removed it. Next take your trusty hobby knife, and get the barrel ready. Near the base, where the wide flat section mates to the actual barrel, there is a small gap. Insert your knife, and while holding the knife steady, rotate the barrel. It takes time, but itís clean. I snapped my first knife blade out of impatience, and resorted to my dremel. Once you get the ring off, clean up the edges with sandpaper or a sanding bit, and itíll look a lot cleaner. Take the air restrictor out of the barrel, and clean the inside. For the tank restrictor, wait until youíve purchased the supplies to cut it out. When you do, make sure your 3/8 inch hose fits cleanly inside the remnants of the AR. This wonít create a seal, but it will help stabilize the hose during gluing.

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Now itís shopping time. For the Titan part, youíll need:

3/8 inch tubing. I used some black Vinyl tubing I found at Lowes. Recommend 2 feet.

2 3/8 inch hose to threading adapter. Barbs on one end, a hex on the other. The inside of the hex should be threaded.

3/8 inch ball valve. This is the tricky part. Take some time and find the loosest one the store has, itíll come in handy later.

2 small hose clamps. As long as they fit around your hose, itís good.

Plumbers goop/hot glue/epoxy/JB weld. Youíll need something to form a perfect seal around the hose.

Brass. I used a 2 foot section of Ĺ inch brass.

But thatís not it. This mod includes a shotgun foregrip. Refer to the other designs if you want one cleaner than mine. But for my design:


Lexan or plexiglass. Make sure it is long enough to go from the front of the gun to the bolt, with extra room to spare. Youíll want some decently thick plexi, I used ľ inch. Youíll also need some thin stuff, I used sheets of 1/8 inch for some building parts.

1 Ĺ inch PVC Tee. Yes, itís smaller than the normal ones, but I like it, and thereís a bonus for using it.

Righty, now that youíve got this pile of stuff, youíre wondering how the hell itís going to come together, other than in the trash can.

The first step is to make the shotgun barrels. Tape a pipe cutter and cut the brass into three equal sections. This will give a 9 round blast. Not too complicated here. Glue all three barrels together into a triangle, and slide it into the titan barrel. Use Great Stuff/ Hot glue to seal around the barrels.
Take your Titan tank, take a deep breath, and draw a line about halfway down the threads. Closer to the tank is better, but make sure there is about Ĺ inch on each side of the line. If youíre squeamish or somewhat reserved about doing this mod, stop now, because your next act will be a crime and a waste of money if you fail.
Once youíve got the line drawn, dremel along it. This sounds crazy, but itís a very effective way to connect it all. When it comes off, start cleaning it up. A sanding bit goes a long way in this. Clean out the AR, but not too much. Grab your hose and stick it in the cut out section of threading. The closer more plastic around the tube, the better. If you go too far, itís not too bad. Youíll just have to be more careful when gluing it. Now that itís looking pretty good, go over to your hose. The 2 foot section has to be divided, and this is where a little bit of preference comes in handy. If you want to place the valve where I did, then cut the hose into 2 sections, one 6 inches long, the other with the remainder. Take the shorter length of hose, and insert it into the thread piece. If it looks good, grab the glue. The hose should be coming in the raw end of the threads, so that the original start to the thread is unblocked. I began with a medium coat of glue, then wrapped it in electrical tape. When you get the glue on, make sure the hose does not extend beyond the end of the threads. Flush with the threads is good.
Once that end of the tubing is good, take your other end of the hose, and insert it into the remnant of the threads on the air tank. Sand until it sits pretty well, and glue it the same way the other piece. The only big concern here is gluing the dump valve closed, but a thin coat of glue, drying then a thick coat will avoid it. Tape it up for drying and set it aside.


Now to begin the cool mounting procedure. Take your thin plexi, and get your knife ready. The first and second pieces are both the same size, 1 7/8 inch by 5 ĺ inch. One of them may have to be trimmed down further, but these are good rough measurements. Cut them out and get ready to start fitting. Take your LS, and strip everything out of it. Iíve found it easier to do the fittings without all the pieces in place. One of the plexi sheets is going to sit inside the shell. Looking closely at the shell of the LS, youíll find a small semicircle cutting into the frame.

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I donít have a picture of it after removing the foregrip, but you should be able to see where it will be placed. Take your hobby knife, and the first sheet of plexi. Place the plexi against that little semicircle, and the bottom of the LS. There are a series of supports going from the barrel shroud to the flat bottom. Cut a gap in these just wide enough to fit the plexiglass in. When all of them are cut, slide the sheet in and make sure it fits. Repeat with the other side of the shell, then make sure that the shell can completely close with the plexiglass in it. If the shell wonít close, either make sure the plastic is cut completely, or dremel out a little bit of the plexiglass. A perfect fit here is crucial, or the entire system can slide around.
When it fits well, you have to connect this to itís twin outside the gun. To do this, you need a separator. Take some shards of plexi, and align them along the center of one of the larger pieces. They have to be thinner than the gap in the bottom of the LS, so checking them one at a time is a very good choice. When itís good, glue them together. I used the shell of the LS to make sure it all sat nicely. Once it fits well, remove it from the shell to avoid gluing it together, and let it dry.
Hopefully youíve been working slowly enough that the first piece you glued will dry. Take the short piece of hose and threads, and check them. If they need more glue, do it. Same with the air tank and hose length.
Once itís all dried, you should have an interesting piece of junk sitting in front of you. Should look something like this.

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Maybe now you can see where this is going. Take the air tank and say another prayer. When thatís done, call a friend over. Have him/her/it pull the dump valve so itís open, and while he does that, grab the metal rod as close to the plastic as possible and bend. The entire goal is to jam the dump valve open. Bend it far enough so that it doesnít close when you release your grip. This will never hold a seal, so surround it with glue. You can cut the extra length of rod if you wish, given it makes it far easier to work with. Set it aside to dry.
Go back to the thread remnant. If itís dry, try screwing it into the barrel. If it fits, good, if not, figure out why. If you canít find why it doesnít fit, message me, and Iíll give you my list of possible reasons. The easiest way to finish the next step is to use the LS shell. A friend will come in handy here, if not, use tape. Put the flat plexi panel you made earlier into place. Now set the barrel onto it. Make sure the hose has enough room to maneuver around the magazine well of the gun. Having it stick out a bit too far is a good thing here. It may seem smart to center the barrel, but I found it easier to place it off center. If looking at the LS from the bottom, so the handle is sticking up, the barrel will be offset to the left. It should only be offset ľ to 3/8 inch, but this small change makes a big difference soon. Glue it in. I will admit my barrel isnít perfectly straight, but given the function of the titan, it doesnít matter that much. Let it dry, and apply a second coat of either hot glue, or epoxy.
Switch back over to the air tank. This will eventually sit in the stick of the gun, but right now, itís a bit too fat. Start by cutting off the small nubs on the orange rings. Theyíre useless. After that, the tank canít be minimized any more. Start cutting the stock away. This is a custom process, so instructions arenít going to help. But continue cutting it down, until the tank fits in. I flex the shell of the stock slightly to fit the tank so it doesnít lose integrity. When you get that done, it should fit well. For air to come in, one of the two inputs must be used. I chose the input that is bent at a 90 degree angle. I sealed the other input to guarantee no air loss. Align the bent input with the right side of the stock shell, and cut a hole. This is made easier because the stock has a circle that acts as a great location for the input hose. Cut out the hole and align the tank input to it. If you wish, run a hose into it and connect to the titan pump. It does look cool, but right now ití completely nonfunctional.
Itís time to start connecting the pieces together. Before working on the guns, build the valve. The ball valve sits between then two barbed hose adaptors. Teflon tape helps a lot for sealing. I liked the placement of the valve on the left side of the magazine well. To make the positioning easier, I cut into the mag well until the valve sat against the orange magazine shroud. It requires a lot of cutting plastic, but makes the system more fluid. When that fits, push the barrel end of the hose onto one of the barbs. Right now, itís way too long. Start cutting it down until it fits nicely. Put a hose clamp on it and crank it tight. Attach the hose from the air tank, and you can see how itís going to work.
One quick sidenote. The plexiglass connected to the barrel might slide backwards and interfere with the Dart tooth. To fix this, I dremeled out a large portion of it. About a Ĺ inch wide, and the same distance deep.
Really, the work on the titan is done now, but the mod itself isnít finished. Take your PVC coupler, and cut it down so it fits around the titan barrel. If done right, the grip will hang from the barrel, requiring no external modification for the rails. It should fit closely around the barrel. Grab your ľ inch plexi, and cut a length out of it. I only put one rail on the gun, because the valve sits where the rail wouldíve gone. If this backfires on me, Iíll post a repair. Start with a 2 inch wide, 18 inch long piece. Tape it to the PVC grip and start cutting. It will need to be cut to allow the magazine release to function, and a hole for the bolt handle. Additional decoration is always fun, but for the base design, I left it somewhat square and lacking.
If you offset the titan barrel correctly, the grip and the rail should be in contact. If not, add some plexiglass into the gap so they are connected. Glue them together.

If itís all gone well, you should have a working system. Since this is an insanely long write up, Iíll go over a few basic points:


Make sure all your seals are good. If they arenít, add some glue over the problem area.

The grip should slide cleanly. If it doesnít then sand out a bit of the PVC.

This should be obvious, but I almost made the mistake. Make sure the grip has enough range of movement to cock the LS. If not, youíll be working to fix it, and probably taking glue off to do so.

Assemble everything, and it should all come togeather. Just for reference, here's a few pics of it

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Thanks:
Renegade
Inventor Guy
Dickie
TailsChaser

Modular Ls Undergun System

17 December 2007 - 05:47 PM

After months of slowly modding my LS with random designs, I stopped to look at it and realized tehre was a simple goal. Many have asked for some sort of a SOPMOD gun. While I don't claim to have a system that versatile, it does allow for a variety of attachments.


Okay, first of all, you need a Longshot, and something you want to mount under it. Initially, I had a DTG on the bottom, epoxied in place.

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It was extremely effective, saving my life in many a zombie attacks. But one of my deepest darkest desires, along with mounting a chainsaw to my LS, was to be able to take the gun off and run with a lighter gun. I went over latches, magnets, duct tape. Over time, I'd given up on the entire idea. But a trip to Meijers and an hour of walking down every aisle, looking for parts for random homemade guns a friend and I were working on, I found a simple answer. SO here we go...

Supplies:
LS
Undergun worth mounting
Cabinet latches, recommend 4
Plexiglass
JB weld
Dremel
Piano Wire
cable clip, if you can't find one, use the clasp on a USB drive lanyard.
Metal Keyring



first of all, start off by comparing the two guns you want to connect. I began with a DTG already mounted to the LS. Second, try to decide which direction forces are going to act upon the gun. the mounts have to be able to hold the gun in place, but also counter your motion. My initial attempt worked quite well until I started sprinting and cocking the Dtg at the same time.

Before I go into the build, I want to clarify the terms used below.
The Latch is a small metal box with a spring inside, held between two rotating levers. The levers are connected to wheels that will rotate around the clasp.
The Clasp is an all metal piece, mounting holes on both sides. It is shaped like a diamond standing on end. When the latch is pushed over it, the wheels will go around the widest section of the diamond shape and the spring will squeeze them along a skinnier part of the clasp.
to decide where to place the mounts, I pushed them together, them maneuvered them around the surface, looking for viable places where both mounting surfaces could reach plastic.

The first clasp goes at the far back, at the end of the DTG body. the two surfaces with screw holes must be bent so the diamond shape of the clasp is parallel to the latch on the LS. The latch does go over the seam of the LS, so care must be taken to remove the screws before taking the gun apart afterwards.


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The second and third latches are mirror images of each other. They are mounted on what's left of the front handle. To strengthen them, I cut plexiglass and JB welded it in. They are opposite of the other two because the latch goes on the DTG, and the clasp on the LS.


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The fourth is my personal favorite, and the backbone of the mount. The clasp is mounted inside the DTG, on one of the screw mounts. To mount it, the screw holes of the clasp must be bent around so they sit flush with each other. Then they have to be dremeled out so they fit around the screw mount.

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If you've placed all four mounts accurately, then the screws themselves should be able to hold the guns together. To make sure they all sit in properly, I coated certain places in JB weld. The two latch sets along the sides of the guns, only mounted to one shell can be reinforced simply by coating the threads inside the LS. The latch on the gun can be held in by coating the heads and mounting surfaces in JB. The front doesn't need any sort of reinforcement since it's on an already strong mount. The back one has to be strengthened with JB by either putting JB on one of the screw threads.


Now that the physical mounting is done, the serious part starts. A removable gun would be useless unless the trigger cable could be removed. I left the original design in, and added a squeeze and pull connector. One end runs into the gun, going to either the LS trigger, or a separate ring trigger, the chocie is yours. The otehr end is tied onto the DTG trigger by way of fishing line. When finished, it should look something like this.

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I cut the barrel off a Double shot, ripped it in half, and cut it too fit the area and make it look better cosmetically. One side isn't mounted so I can take pics of it.

If you've done it right, you should be able to unclip the trigger, then pull the gun off.

Now I already know some of you are goraning, calling this a less-than-spectacular mod. Honestly, I agree with you. I state this because the DTG is very effective, but it is only the beginning of the possibilites that can be placed there. I'm almost finished with an RF 20 setup for the bottom of the gun, using the same mounting points and trigger. After that, a shotgun foregrip, and just for fun, a foam chainsaw. Nearly any gun could be modified to fit these mounting points, creating a variety of attachments


I do agree this isn't as clean as an RIS rail on an M4 rifle, it is more adaptable to different designs of nerf guns.


Special thanks:
OfAllTheNerf
Dickie
PyroManaiakal22
Groove
One Man Clan
Forsaken_Angel_24


Please ask questions, I quite enjoy answering them.