Jump to content


blister

Member Since 08 Mar 2007
Offline Last Active Nov 07 2016 07:00 PM

Topics I've Started

Supermaxx 1000 Modification

19 September 2007 - 06:14 PM

Sorry that I was a little delayed on writing this guide. It was all ready on Monday, and then my computer quit on me. So I was a little set back on re-doing it.

Anyway, let me start by saying that this is, in my own humble opinion, the COOLEST GUN EVER! The auto-rotation, the pump ON the barrel, the goofy color scheme, etc. Too bad that the Sm1k is very rare and fragile.

Edit: Pump only up to 3 times max!

Materials needed/recommended:

Hotglue gun w/ sticks
Sch 40 PVC / Sch80 PVC depending on FBR fatness
CPVC/Brass/PETG
Tubing Cutter
Dremel
Ruler
Lubricant
O-ring from a 2k pump (or another with similar dimensions)
My Highly Informative Guide on the SM1k Internals

Ok, here is the completed gun, which is not that different looking from a stock one.
Posted Image

Start by gently prying off the orange rings on the pump and fake barrel. After that, open her up. Be careful when doing this, as springs inside are likely to pop out and get lost forever. Take your time and hold the blaster by the red tank part. This will take pressure off of the spring resting on top of the turret, which will fly out, unless you do this. For more info, look at the internals guide.

Here are the over all internals of the gun, when everything is assembled.
Posted Image

After opening it up, start by plugging the over-pressure release valve in the pump. Load up the center with hot glue. Let that dry, and lube up the plunger.
Posted Image

If you have a Dremel, you should cut the trigger spring down to about 1.5". It will make it much easier to reassemble and operate the gun. A good picture of the cut spring is in my internals guide.

Now, on to improving the seal. For some reason the white piece sitting on top of the airtank which is supposed to provide a seal, was completely blocking the air, making it come out of the sides. I ripped off that piece and glued on an O-ring from a broken At2k pump. Perfect fit! Sorry I forgot to take a picture of this before I closed it up, but you get the idea. Hot glue down the o-ring over the airtank and let it dry. Here is a picture of the improved seal.
Posted Image

To improve the barrel fit, but still allow a working turret, I used Sch40 PVC to nest inside of the original fake barrel. Depending on the thickness of your specific FBR, it may be beneficial to use Sch80 PVC, which has a smaller inside diameter. The PVC is a near perfect fit inside the original barrel. You will need to gauge yourself on the length of PVC to use, because mine is already glued in. It should be approximately 10.5" to make a good partial seal with the turret and still be long enough to fit well in the other barrel.
Posted Image
or
Posted Image

From this point, the only thing left to do is rebarrel the turret. Now this part can be a little tricky. I used about 2" of Dremel'd CPVC in each barrel, and haven't looked back. The only problem is that the turret was too heavy for the auto-rotation mechs to continue working. After only a few trigger pulls, the end of the trigger snapped. I tried gluing it, re-melting it, and nothing held. The trigger was too hard to pull and was unreliable.

So if you are desperate to keep the auto-rotation, DO NOT USE CPVC or most likely, BRASS. You should use a lighter barrel material like PETG. Be warned that if you do use CPVC or brass, you will most likely end up needing to manually rotate the turret. This was fine for me, but I am just warning you.

If you happen to be using brass or PETG, you can skip the next few steps, but you will need to glue your barrels in.

Ok so, cut 6 lengths of CPVC to this height.
Posted Image

And Dremel out one end like so. Picture is blurry, but sand down until the walls are pretty thin.
Posted Image

Rinse and repeat 6 times until your turret is full. You don't need to hammer them in, just push firmly. No glue necessary, and you can take out the barrels in a moment's notice with needlenose pliers.

Posted Image

If you used CPVC, then take out the pieces that make it auto-rotate, and then follow my internals guide to put it back together.

I pump it mainly 3 times, 4 and the firing pin closes up again before all the air is out. Manually rotating the turret isn't too bad, I can squeeze off all 6 shots in under 20 seconds with 3 pumps. It also makes the gun more reliable. I can confidently say that I am getting ranges of 80' or more. Accuracy is dead on, mainly because of the excessively long barrel.

I measured in my street how long each graduated line on the rain gutter thingy next to the asphalt was. I used a yardstick and each was 20'. I am a short little asian kid, 5'5", and took 6 level (or as close as I could get) shots. Including dart skip, the ranges were between 100'-120' by counting how many lines it passed. I eyeballed where each hit the ground and the ranges were between 80'-90'. Before I replaced the Sch40 with Sch80, the ranges were probably around 70'-80'. If anyone disputes these ranges, I guess I could make a video, but it's not like I'm claiming consistent 100' shots.

My airtank busted from overpumping so I am no longer able to prove any claims. I would highly recommend pumping only up to 3 times, maybe even 2.5

As requested, here is a comparison of a 2k airtank and the sm1k one.
Posted Image

Here is a size comparison pic next to my 2nd favoritte gun of all time, my SM5k.
Posted Image

Supermaxx 1000 Internal Pics And How To Put The Gun Back Together.

14 September 2007 - 11:53 PM

Aite, so I finally found an SM1k, which I have been looking for. So people posted about needing internal pics, so I took some.

Posted Image

First off, I would highly reccomend cutting the trigger spring down to about 1.5"-1.75". This will make it much easier to put the gun back together.

Posted Image

Next, we have an L-shaped black piece (we will refer to this piece as LBP-1 for the rest of the guide.) near the firing pin and the trigger. This works to release the air faster than simply pulling the trigger. It is similar to the one used in the Sm5k. The torsion spring attached to it rests against the grey plastic bar.


On to the turret. There is a spring and a black piece that rests on the top of the turret. This is the completed turret.

Posted Image


On the right side of the trigger, we have another L-shaped black piece (LBP-2) and a grey piece (GP) with a torsion spring and turret advancer (TA). The TA rests attached to the torsion spring and on top of the GP. The LBP-2 rests on top of the GP and the trigger.

Now, on to reassembling the gun. You can put the fake barrel on at any point. First, put the trigger and trigger spring in place. Second, put the LBP-1 in properly. Third, compress the spring resting on top of the turret and place it in.

Posted Image

Next, assemble the GP, torsion spring and TA. Slide the completed machanism alongside the turret. Place the LBP-2 on top of the trigger and mech.

Posted Image
Posted Image

Now quickly put the shell on, and screw everything back together before a spring pops out. Pray it works, and test it out.



The white piece on top of the airtank wasn't working and shot the air out of the side of the gun. I removed it, and now I have no seal. Any ideas?

O yea, and to make this searchable: Sm1k Sm1000 Supermaxx 1000 1k internal picture

Quick Pump Question

27 August 2007 - 08:53 AM

Is an SM3k pump the same size as an SM5k pump?

Are there any other pumps the same size as an SM5k pump other than the Blastfire?

Pistolsplat Ps-800 Modification

07 August 2007 - 02:57 PM

Recently in Phoenix, I purchased a PistolSplat PS-800 from SportMart, with hopes of acheiving the claimed 100' on eBay. It cost $15 and came with some shitty paintballs, a target and safety glasses. Stock, The gun hardly shot the paintballs, which didn't even burst. The grip is really comfortable; it melts into your hand.

Here is the gun stock: Posted Image

There is an annoying tab of plastic protruding from the grip which hurts your hand. The first order of business was to get rid of it: Posted Image

Posted Image

While opening the gun up, you need to take off the yellow and red rings of plastic. I recommend using a Dremel.

When you open up the gun, a spring and a ring of plastic should pop out at you. These aren't necessary. You will notice that it has a mechanism which doesn't allow the trigger to be pulled if the lever isn't completely down. I would leave this in place, but you can take it off. Here are the internals:
Posted Image

Take the barrel and plunger tube out, and throw away the barrel. Take 5 inches of a tight fitting barrel material, I used CPVC. And glue it directly onto the hole. Glue it well, or the barrel will shoot out. Sideways!!

Posted Image

Close everything back up and test it out.

My ranges were about 80' - 90'. I'm sure someone could do better with a spring replacement, but I didn't feel like it.
This is a great gun for the little amount of work I had to do. The leverage makes it incredibly easy to prime.

What Gun Is This?

02 August 2007 - 10:57 PM

Posted Image

The black and silver pistol on the left. This was an eBay auction a while ago, but I forgot to bid on it. I'm still curious as to what gun it is. I searched a ton and noone seemed to have it.