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Member Since 19 Jul 2010
Offline Last Active Apr 02 2018 04:50 AM

Topics I've Started

How To Add Mega To A Mega Missile.

21 February 2011 - 07:16 PM

After a bit of experimentation, I've found that Buzz Bee's bastard child of an air blaster is actually pound-for-pound a better 4B. The airflow within the tank assembly is much better, making it a fantastic platform to build from.

Here's how to make it Mega-er.

-Mega Missile.
-3/4" to 1/2" reducing bushing, of the totally-round variety(see picture)
-1" to 1/2" reducing bushing.
-1" PVC coupler.
-Vinyl tubing, your choice of size. I prefer 1/4" OD 1/8" ID for the run from pump to tank, 1/4" ID for coupling it.
-PVC/CPVC/ABS cement(Oatey's red can here).
-Tools, you tools.

Let's get started chopping that thing up. Here's what you're starting with:

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Take that puppy apart and chop off the pump handle. Let's hope you got an adjustable OPRV, it makes things much more fun.

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We need to take a little chunk out of the 1" coupler, so it clears the blast chamber of the tank.

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Here it is after shaving it down, being test-fit. You'll need a wrap or two of electrical tape for a snug fit:

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Chop off the rocket barrel and solvent weld the 3/4" to 1/2" bushing in place. Remove the check valve in the back of the MM tank(the little black rubber flapper) by cutting or twisting out the nubs that hold it in. Solvent weld the 1" coupler in place WELL.

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Build the OPRV assembly as shown in the SVT4B thread here: http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=20524 . Drill a hole for the tubing to enter the tank and solvent weld both the OPRV assembly and the vinyl tubing into the coupler as shown:

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Congrats, you're done. With a tiny bit of trimming of the stock shell, this fits wonderfully in place making for a tiny primary that loves hoppers.

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Hang in there for part two, how to make this tank and a MS shell/pump into your favorite air blaster!

The Ohio Revolution

05 February 2011 - 06:31 PM

The Ohio Playdate Presents: REVOLUTION

Date: March 19th, 2011

Time: The festivities start at 9 AM.

Where: Mt. Echo Park

Address: 381 Elberon Avenue, Cincinnati, OH


What to bring:
-Blasters, enough for yourself, your guests, and back ups aswell
-Darts, same as above(slugs or stock only)
-Food and water, or money to get it
-As many guests as possible, remember the more the merrier
-Trade fodder, for after the fun!

What not to bring:
-Homemade air blasters
-Plugged Blasters
-Singled and/or plugged titans
-Singled jobars, cobras, and anything that is meant to unclog a drain
-Anything that could easily be mistaken for a real weapon, including real weapons
-Drugs or alcohol, we don't want to give Nerf a bad name

Darts and Blasters:
-To prevent(and at the risk of increasing) further confusion, let's talk darts. My compatriates and I have discussed this at length, and there truly is no reason to use dome darts these days. The commonly-used blasters fire well[hard] enough that slugs reach more-than sufficient ranges in any practical situation. That being said, what is a slug? The common slug is a washer + felt "dot" sandwich atop your foam blank. It creates a uniform dart for all.

-For the sake of argument(and to address Coop's question in this thread), I'll allow a 3/0 fishing weight or lighter UNDER A FELT DOT and with no dome present. This means the weight will need to be recessed into the foam, with a secure layer of hot glue over it, then the felt atop that. DARTS WILL BE INSPECTED IF NEED BE. Anything heavier than a 3/0 weight(I'm talking about you, slingshot weight) will be disqualified from use.

-Likewise, any blaster deemed too powerful[read: dangerous] will be removed from play during the course of the war. The blasters listed specifically above and any that fails any number of tests we may conduct will not be allowed.

-Relying on the scavenging of darts is discouraged. It's easy to show up with a minimal amount of darts and scavenge for the rest of the day, but it can be a hinderance to the people who come prepared, with an ample amount of darts. After regular dart sweeps, everyone will dump all of the picked-up darts so their owners can recover them. This will ensure that play isn't interrupted. We recommend a minimum of 200 darts per player to begin the day.

-We're working on other details right now, look for updates as we go along.(*cough* tshirts *cough*)

-BrokenSVT + 3-4
-Kid Flash + 1
-BritNerf(Hailing from the motherland)
-Father Time(it's in his backyard, yo)
-Buffdaddy(Where's this guy FROM)
-Prince Valor
-Abyss Mods
-Howdy AKA Jonathon

-Demon Lord(representing Chi-town)
-popatachi(Massachusetts in the house)
-DarkMatter(Nrev, from Indiana)
-Shrub(no flashing, k?)
-PhreeAgent + 5-6

Need a Ride/Wants to Carpool:



felt dots:


How To[mostly] Build An Svt4b

01 December 2010 - 07:46 AM

There has been a lot of interest in these lately on the IRC, and quite a few sold out of my living room. Here's[mostly] how you can build your own. A huge thanks to Zorn for the inspiration from his thread here: http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=18642 . Admittedly, the concepts are the same but I've found a few new tricks. This writeup only applies to the old-style(larger tank, non-lever trigger) 4B. The concepts are similar with a lever trigger model, but relocating the OPRV will require some thinking on your own, as the 1" coupler doesn't fit the rear of the new tank.

1" PVC Coupler
1" to 3/4" PVC reducing bushing
1/4" OD, 1/8" ID vinyl tubing, about 8" for good measure.
A small section of 1/4" ID tubing as a coupler, or a nifty brass/PVC barbed fitting.
3/4" to 1/2" PVC slip fitting. I only buy the ones at Lowe's, they're meant for 4Bs.
The new pump. I use Schwinn typically. This writeup shows a MS pump.
Super Glue. I use Gorilla brand.
Oatey's red can PVC/CPVC/ABS cement. I put that shit on everything.
Epoxy putty.

Let's get started. Here is the blaster.
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Open it up via the 10 screws. If you're going to minimize this thing just hack, gouge or chew your way through the orange ring at the front of the blaster. If you're going to keep it intact, be a bit more careful(or buy an intact ring from me, I've been saving them).
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See these pieces?
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Get rid of them. You'll end up with this after using your hacksaw or razor saw:
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Debur those edges, you don't want chunks of plastic in your airtank later. Now that our tank has gone on a diet, let's get it ready for its new pump. Here's the rear of the tank before and after removing the stock check valve:
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Sorry, no bonus points for a pretty circular hole here.

Now, drill a hole near the front of the tank. I use a 1/4" drill bit for my favorite 1/4" OD, 1/8" ID tubing, and always make the hole forward-facing and oriented toward the "bottom" shell of the blaster. Debur this hole as well.
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Take the opportunity now to do a final deburring of all holes and cuts we made in the tank. Rinse it thoroughly with water, running your faucet or bottled water into the nozzle of the tank(which you should be holding OPEN, derp), and letting the water exit the rear of the tank where you cut-out the stock check valve. Shrapnel in your airtank is bad, mmk?

Let's relocate that OPRV. After much trial and error, I've settled on my favorite method. The stock OPRV is in the pump head, as with many nerfy air blasters. Cut off the pump shaft 1/2" or so above the pump head. Discard the pump handle, unless you have some other use for it. Remove the oring from the pump head(OPRV, for our purposes) and toss it in the parts bin or garbage.

Test-fit this assembly into the rear of our 1" to 3/4" bushing. It needs to go through in this manner for strength. If it doesn't fit through the bushing easily, trim the bushing's rim until it does. Super glue it to the bushing, being careful to not plug the two holes in opposite sides of the OPRV. Once it has cured, Goop the living hell out of the rear portion, being careful to not plug the hole on the bottom of the OPRV(I super glue a portion of larger vinyl tubing around the hole to build a wall).

Here's your end result:
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