Astray

I remember seeing a guide where the plunger end cap was replaced with a PVC cap and then epoxied on after a hole was cut in the center so the plunger rod could still move. Of course this means you wouldn't be able to open up your plunger tube again without removing the end cap some how. I wish I could find the guide but I haven't had any such luck. Maybe someone else knows where it is.

My only criticism is for someone out there to try and keep the slide intact and on there. That would be a +100 sexiness rating. I don't like the chunk of Nitefinder on there.

Jerm already did this. The problem with his mod though is that it gets around stock maverick ranges if not worse. The problem with using only the maverick shell is that there just isn't enough room in there to really take advantage of the nitefinder plunger tube.

I think I like Carrtoon's version here a little more because it keeps the Maverick shell and still gets decent ranges. However I absolutely love the LEDs. I think you should do a write up on just those as my experience with electronics is at a minimum at best.

I was initially very skeptical of the Barricade, but if you're really getting distances of 50-60 with just those basic modifications, and you found an easy solution for the flywheel noise, then gun is almost certainly going to be something awesome in the future. You have officially made me very excited.

The above method is ingenious, and it's kind of frustrating that I wasn't able to think of it in the first place. I am almost 100% certain that this would work perfectly in the 18-dart stampede clips because of the box spring design. I'll attempt it as soon as I get a chance. A write up for the above would be wonderful, but I'm sure I'd be able to manage without one.

Astray, it would be an addition usually.

Thank you very much for that info.

If you have the [k26], you can just use it as a replacement spring. Cut it shorter rather than longer though and you shouldn't see too much death in your blaster.

As to the plastic nub on the brass breech, your best bet is some sort of two-part epoxy resin. They make stuff formulated to "work" with brass, but brass is pretty evil and not much likes to adhere to it.

Also thank you for that information. I'll need to look into something else then. I used a two-part epoxy resin (Gorilla brand) and it wasn't able to hold it so I either need to find this brass specific stuff or do something else altogether.

I've always wondered why nobody uses a piece of copper or brass soldered in place.

This is a brilliant idea. I was thinking that it might necessary to do something like this but I'm unsure of the strength of solder. Worse comes to worse I could always weld it, but I don't have a clue about how I would go about doing that while I could solder something relatively easy.

Edit: So I've been experimenting with my longshot and I think I've finally found a solution to the problem that is the little plastic nub on brass. I found a thin sheet of brass that I will wrap around the tube leaving a portion of it stick up, kind of like a fastener. From here I'll heat it up and solder it to the tube making what should hopefully be a permanent connection that will be able to withstand even the [k26] spring and the stock at the same time. I have not tested this method yet, but I plan to do it tomorrow so I'll update once I get a chance. Now the only thing I'm worried about breaking is the little black thing that holds the springs inside the tube. I don't know how to reinforce so I'm worried it won't be able to withstand the force. If anyone has any ideas about this that would be great.