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commander erik

Member Since 30 Oct 2006
Offline Last Active Nov 25 2009 08:21 PM

Topics I've Started

Hidden Shot Mod

10 July 2007 - 03:09 PM

Here's my contribution to the latest "small arms" mods.
The Hidden Shot.
Are you tired of mods that don't leave you to but your own spin on them? Well, this will give you a little room for originality.
Materials needed:
  • Hidden shot
  • 17/32" or 9/16" brass
  • crayola marker
  • PETG
  • 2.5-3" CPVC
  • electrical tape
  • saw/dremel
  • needlenose pliers
  • sander
Time needed: 5-10 mins
Well, this mod is very simple, and that's all you need to know.
Here is the gun before you do anything.
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Image used with permission from wldworld, who happened to sell me that exact HS.
Pre-barrel Prep
Cut your stock barrel down to 2". Don't worry about cutting the pole, you'll get that out anyway.
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Now take your pliers and rip out the pole in the barrel. You want to rip out very close to all of it, but you want to see a little bit of orange left when you are done.
Here is a reference:
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Brass barreled
This is what I use.
Cut 3" of brass in a size of your choice. Use the pliers to flare out both ends of the barrel, to prevent dart slicing. Wrap in elctrical tape until it is snug in the stock barrel. Just for shits and giggles, I wrapped the end in e-tape and mashed the end of the stock barrel on there. I think it looks good, and by god you better agree with me.
Finished pic:
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Marker barreled
This isn't the greatest barrel material, but if you want to use a crayola or Rose-art marker, you can.
Cut your marker like so and hollow out the insides. Wrap it a few times (2 or 3) in e-tape and wiggle it into your stock barrel.
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CPVC barreled
This is a little harder than the rest, but it's worth it.
Cut about 3" of 1/2" CPVC. Use your sander to sand down 1" of the end of the CPVC until it is snug in the stock barrel. This will be the end that you will stick in the stock barrel. BE CAREFUL! If you don't sand off enough, you will crack the stock barrel if you try to cram it in there.
Here is a pic for you to go by:
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PETG barreled
No, I don't have any PETG, but you would follow the same procedure as the marker barrel. I would use 3.5" of PETG, but you may want it a little longer or shorter than that.

Congrats, you're done.
Here is a pic of my hidden shot with all 3 (hopefully 4 someday) of the barrels.
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And just because somebody may be wondering how it "folds up", here is a pic if the HS with a brass barrel, in its "folded up" form.
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CPVC: 30ft.
brass: 35ft.
Crayola: 20ish ft.

Closing thoughts:
It's a pocket weapon. Get over it. It's not meant to be "teh uber 120ft NF smg". It's meant to be a last resort. It's small (slightly larger than a SSPB, when folded), but not incredibly accurate. That's because the barrel rotates. It's a little hard to aim, but once you get used to it, it's not that bad.

Gun Accessories

27 May 2007 - 05:22 PM

I've seen a lot of people adding things to blasters. Sights, handrails, shotgun foregrips, etc. The list goes on for a while.
Here are some of the things I use fairly effectively.
Umbrella stock
Basically, this is an extendable stock made from an old umbrella I had laying around. orginally used it on my AT2K, but can be adapted to any gun. Here it is on my DTG:
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Materials: retractable umbrella, scissors, wire cutters, some sort of adhesive to mount it on your gun.
All you have to do is strip the umbrella down to the handle and shaft assembly. Then mount the end on your favorite gun and pull it out when you want to. This isn't really too useful, but can help you steady your aim if it is really bad.
Here is an FPS view of it partially extended (shown with DTG front handle mod):
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Elastic stripper clips
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Everyone knows the advantage of a good stripper clip/belt clip. This just takes it one step further. It allows the barrels to move freely while they are mounted. This helps prevent breakage, looks a little better than duct tape (but who cares about looks?), and makes storage a tad easier.
I mainly made this, though, for guns without couplers, like the LSB and BBB, in which I use the stock barrel as abetter form of "coupler". They're also very good when you don't have a lot of space to move around, or when there is a lot of places where a large clip can be caught on things (i.e: small indoor spaces, forests, etc.)
There are only 2 problems. 1: It is hard to add more loops to it once you've made it. And 2: Longer chains' barrels clank around when you are running, but it's not too loud.

DTG front handle mod
Materials: DTG, LS bolt (both handles), copious amounts of hot glue, 3/16" drill bit and drill/drill press.
First, cut the DTG's front handle off of the gun. Then, take the handle off of the LS bolt rod. Remove the 2 screws from the handle and discard the conical , but keep the flat peice that holds the bolt in place. Hot glue this flat peice into the top of the front handle It should look like this:
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And here are both sides together:
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Drill a hole through both sides the DTG's cocking slider. Insert the new bolt rod (either way: this is an ambidextrous accessory) throught the holes.
Here is an FPS view of the handle:
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Holster with carabiners
I know I am not the first person to come up with a holster, but here is a simple way to keep it attacked ot your pants: D-Ring carabiners. Just loop attach them to the belt loops on your pants. I also recommend a shoulder strap in addition to these rings, as it adds a lot of stability. I don't recommend the ones with a screw-type closing. Just use the regular clip-style ones.
Here is my holster with 2 d-rings (Note the shoulder strap is just not all the way in the pic):
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Don't loop the d-rings to the same belt loop. Use 2 adjacent ones.

Using a stock barrel as a coupler for a CPVC barrel
Materials: CPVC, electrical tape, 11/16" spade bit, drill
This probably isn't new, but I prefer this to using a coupler. Couplers just aren't as accurate and are too easy to knock out of whack. I find that boring out the stock barrel with a 11/16" spade bit works quite well for CPVC. WIth some stock barrels, you will have to wrap a loop or two of e-tape around the CPVC to het them to stay in there. This works well with the LSB and BBB. I don't really think a pic is necessary.

Carrying strap
Basically, affix a length of fabric (the tougher the better) to the front and back of your gun. This isn't too practical, but helps you carry and use a primary and sidearm/2 primaries fairly well.

Ammo Holders
These definitely aren't mine, but I do use them a lot.
Materials: any scraps of a barrel material that tightly fits your darts, some form of adhesive, file/sandpaper
You will want to file/sand down the inside edges a bit so that only the middle part of the holders is actually very tight on your darts. This helps keep their size as well as makes them easier to remove when you need them. Just put them anywhere you think they are accesible. Here are a few (of many I have yet to add) on my BBB:
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I have more, but I can't think of any now.
EDIt: forgot about ammo holders.

Switch Shots Ultra Mod

14 May 2007 - 05:55 PM

Yes, you heard me a Switch Shots Ultra mod. This thing has been rotting in my back yard for at least 5 years now. I finally found it yesterday (Mother's day) and decided to clean it up and (hopefully) mod it. The only problem was that the yellow air tank was gone.
I will let you know in advance that this gun will no longer have the ability to fire water when we are done, and will loose the ability to fire semi-auto if you follow this write-up exactly.
Time: about 20 mins.
Materials needed:
Hot glue gun w/ a few sticks
Needle nose pliers/wire cutters/scissors
About 6-ish inches of 1/2'' CPVC.
Small welch's bottle or possibly a vitamin water bottle. (This is only if you lost the large bright, yellow airtank)
See what I mean?
Step 1: get your SSU open. You will need to start with the yellow fire-mode-selector thing. Use the saw/dremel to cut the peice of plastic off between the barrels. Hell, get it off any way you can, because I didn't even want to put it back on. (Do you need a pic?)
Step 2: Trim off some (or all) of the water-intake hose. You might also want to cut the hose leading from the tank to the water barrel: I also cut off the trigger that leads from the main trigger to the water-release valve.
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Step 3: Add a ring of hot glue around your replacement air tank, then insert it where the old one was. Here is what mine looks like:
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Step 4: First, get the barrel pins out of the barrels. Cut 2 similar peices of 1/2" CPVC. I used 2 of the CPVC barrels that fell off of my DTG, which are about 3.5 inches. I wouldn't use anything longer than 5". Put two rings of hot glue around each barrel, and insert them into the stock barrels. Then, plug the hole in each of the stock barrels. Here is what this should look like:
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Step 5: This is only if you want to fire both barrels at the same time. DO NOT do this if you want your blaster to fire the same way it does stock. Press the thin white peice of white plastic down. You want the spring totally compressed. This is the peice on the front barrel, if your are looking at it as though the gun were shooting right. Put some hot glue around the valve pin that sticks out. You don't want that white peice to move again. EVER. Here is the pic:
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And here is an MS Paint diagram, beacuse my wording sucks:
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Step 7: plug the OPRV:
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You will also have to plug the two holes in the side of the pump:
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(That black spot is just some dirt that was in there.)
Step 8: Attempt to reassemble your blaster. You may have to rim the case or cut out some of the case halves in order to do this. Here is what it looks like before you assemble both halves together again:
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(Note: the end of my pump handle broke off long ago. I just covered it with some duct tape.)
Here is a finished pic with a BBB for size comparison:
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Ranges: 40-50 ft (flat) with decent stefans.
In closing:
I like this gun. It's a bit bigger than an AT2K. It shoots 2 darts at a time, and you could easily manage 6 darts total from one shot. I use this almost all the time in my indoor wars, now, because the darts rarely go outside of a 2 foot radius of where I am aiming. And with 6 shots coming at you, who needs accuracy?

Sonic Bazooka Mod

28 April 2007 - 02:46 PM

Lanard Sonic Bazooka Mod
Time: 10-15 minutes
Materials needed:
-Sonic Bazooka
-CPVC (6-8 inches per barrel)
-electrical/ PVC tape
-hot glue
-elastic (about 3/4" wide)
Here is your stock gun:
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First, open up your gun and take out the entire assembly. It is all one piece, for now.
You may want to plug the OPRV now.
Take your saw/dremel and saw off the orange air restrictor. It goes about 1/2" down into the stock barrel.
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Now Take your CPVC and saw off 6-8 inches. Take your electrical tape and wrap the barrel once or twice around the end that goes into the stock barrel. The first loop should start about 1/2" from the end of the barrel. Just use the picture if you are confused. I recommend doing 2 loops, but you could do one, this is personal preference. You want it to be snug in the stock barrel, but you also want to be able to take it out later.
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Push this new barrel inside your stock barrel and make sure it fits.
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Now close up your gun and you are done. Here's a pretty bad pic of what it should look like when you are done.
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One more optional step is to make an elastic belt for your removable barrels. Here one I made for 3 barrels:
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This is a very simple mod that will give you singled AT2K ranges in a gun a tad bit bigger. I do like how the pump handle serves as a very effective stock when you need to steady your aim.
This is a great first or second mod. It's really easy, will only cost you about $10, and has a lot of space for you to cut down the case if you want.