The handle has a big trigger. It rotated a cam that pulls the big plunger back for a short stroke. Another cam indexes a selector and switches which tube the air gets diverted. I think the twin tube/barrel assembly may work similar to the triple barrel jolt and roughcut where the AR shuts off the barrel and the next barrel is fired. However that is only for the twin barrels. Each twin barrel assembly is independent of each other.
One thing I like is that after all 4 shots are fired, one more pull on the trigger and the barrels automatically retract into the shield.
I saw this at Target. And gutted it to add an Ironman Jolt.
The biggest pain Is that the wrist straps are for kid sized wrists. So I used a spare watch band and doubled up the Velcro. I need a more secure attachment for the Ironman Jolt. When I push the slider back, the jolt slips back a bit.
I got a Rough Cut today. Found it at another local TRU. BOGO 50% off too.
I also integrated one into my Stryfe. It is not quick detachable like the Strongarm integration but it works.
I point out some details how it is integrated in my video. No Glue or screws were used. I did eventually zip tie the top front of the Roughcut and the front bottom of the retaliator front end just to eliminate the wobble but it is not crucial for the integration. Also the Rough Cut rigger now has a screw screwed thru it to keep it locked in place so all I need to do is pump the roughcut to fire it.
See video a few posts down.
I made the first Masterkey and now that Nerf Elites have gotten better, I decided to make another one using the Stryfe as the primary weapon. I want to use a Roughcut but my TRU hasn't stocked them in just yet. So I went with the Strongarm due to the slamfire capability.
The integration is pretty simple and does not require glue or other means of attachment. But by all means you can use it if you want to.
Take apart the Strongarm. Line up the shell with the Retaliator front end. Make sure to position the shell forward so that when you pull the slide back, the magazine of the Stryfe doesn't get in the way. I cut the loop, on the end of the slide, so it doesn't hit the magazine.
Then just cut the grip off using the bottom of the shell as a guide. See the pic below.
Next you need to make a 0.47 inch slot down the middle of the bottom of the shell. You want the Strongarm shell to close onto the Retaliator lower rail like a giant rail mount. You will need to trim the shell a bit to get a perfect fit. Just keep test fitting and trying to close the shell over the Retaliator rail. I also used one of the support pegs in the Strongarm shell and drilled a hole thru the Retaliator rail so the peg go thru the rail out the other side. I hope that makes sense.
After you got the shell to fit, just put all the parts back inside and close everything up. I used a strip of velcro to keep the trigger pulled of the Strongarm. You could use tape or a ziptie for that as well. This way all you need to do is pump the slide and the Strongarm will fire.
For future reference, this doesn't strictly qualify as a writeup. I don't want to encourages new guys to think a video demonstration and a block of text is enough to warrant a new post. Put it in the pictures thread.
Elite Retaliator and Rampage are already on the shelf at my local Toys R Us. I picked up one of each. I like the Retaliator's performance compared to the Recon. The blaster gets respectable distances and is not loud and does not require overly strong springs.
I then decided to try and retrofit the direct plunger system into my clear recon. I like the clear recon as a test subject. It makes it easy to spot troublesome areas when modifying and fitting parts since I can see directly inside when I close the shell.
Well I got it to work. It is very easy and does not ruin the recon shell from using the factory components if you choose to revert back to factory settings.
You will need:
Elite Bolt Elite Plunger tube Elite Plunger Elite spring Elite catch plate and spring
Optional but recommended: Dart tooth assembly from retaliator.
Basically you need to do two things. Fit the plunger system and reduce the hole in the back for the smaller diameter spring.
I used a piece of spare kydex. I drilled a hole that is just wide enough for the plunger to fit through, but small enough for the spring to rest on. I also used half of a Sch40 PVC 1/2 inch coupler just as a spring guide so the spring doesnt move around. If you look at the inside of the Elite shell, the area where the spring rests has the surrounding area filled with supports. This is what the coupler is for.
It took me a little bit of analysis of the recon shell and the plunger tube. But basically the plunger tube has to be able to move. If you open the elite retaliator and study the movement of the direct plunger system, the plunger tube moves back about 1/8 of an inch and into the catch plate. The catch plate has a circular cut to allow the plunger tube to retract into it.
So you need to trim these areas of the shell to accommodate this movement. Make sure you do this to the opposite side as well.
This area you need to enlarge the first hole. So trim the circumference larger.
Here is a picture of what I used. I forgot to mention that I swapped in the elite dart tooth assembly. It is a better setup. Similar to the Alpha Trooper and is a perfect drop in upgrade. No modifcation needed. The black plate is what keeps the spring from falling back out into the stock area. I made cuts to accommodate the screw posts and trimmed the inside of the shell for the plate.