pjotrkuh

So last sunday my stampede broke, after a few weird and fast back and forth slams, it made a whizzing sound when I pulled the trigger........oh-o....we thought it was the common catch spring jam...... after opening we saw it wasn't that.....It was the gear-box....oh my...

Today after work I opened up the stampede and went on dismantling the gearbox, it is actually a "box" with the motor screwed on one end and just the half-gear sticking out on the other:





Inside the box are some gear-combinations, offcourse allot of down gearing, for more torque less rpm, but 1 combination wassent molded in 1 piece....




It is some kind of motor protection I think.... It doesn't show that well on the picture, but the hole in the large gear and the nub on the small one are supposed to be square but they are worn to a roundish state

When I pulled the trigger, the motor (running 12v 2600mah) forced the 2 gears appart (the "box" isn't made out of the same thickness of plastic as the rest of the shell) so the could slip....

So after I let a BIG sigh of relief I glued the 2 parts together and thats the fix!! Tommorow Test-day(I hope this is the correct place to post this....)

Ok I know this "paintball" gun is very good moddable for darts:



Otherwise known as the pistol splat(?) or chalk blaster

But has anyone bought and checked this one for dart modding purposes?:



EDIT: Pictures of the "magnum" blaster:







Sorry for the crappy internals picture, the orange piece on the front is like the solid rings on the pistol splat, but only a crapload bigger.......so it took a while to take apart.
The original "ball loader" mech is quite complicated, it took me an hour to put the gun back together.

The plunger tube has the same size as the pistolsplat but is an inch longer, it has the same size spring but its like 2 inches longer.

So in all, it would be a nice gun to mod, also due to the large shell one could easily slap in other internals.

Ok I've seen various topics about recons with dart loading problems, or issues with ranges because of the dart not loading far enough into the barrel.

Here's a solution, I've made the dart tooth bigger so it pushes the dart a litlle bit further into the barrel, also I shaped the tooth so that the dart will not be "dragged" down with the tooth:

First on the right the Recon parts, on the left tools and materials:



First hacksaw a small piece out of the faux-barrel end, but leave a "ridge" so the tooth will stay in place:



Next glue some plastic sheeting to the dart tooth, keeping in mind the dimensions of the part you just cut out of the faux-barrel offcourse:



Now test fit the tooth, be shure no plastic sticks out:



Now re-assemble your gun and fire away!

For even better, or less dart-drag you can cut slits in the plastic, just like the original tooth

EDIT: Thanks Wing'd man

Ok, it says “cosmetic” but it also is more stable in the LS, and recon (WARNING: This mod will make the drum clip useless in a Recon), due to the weight being more centered.

First a picture of the finished drum, unpainted:



The drum taken apart (Sorry that the orange clip piece is already cut-up):



The tools and materials youl’l need (the white on the bottom is some plastic sheet):



First take apart the whole drum, I took of the clear cover, I don’t know if the grey cover is better or worse to take off, the orange piece that goes in the gun is not glued or screwed down so you can take the dart wheel and that part out, BEWARE, the rotation mech is attached to the little black piece on the orange part, and tot the black dart pusher rod on the dart wheel, to take of the orange piece you have to grab the steel strip near the dartpusher rod, push it back and back out, here are some pictures to help you out:









Then cut the orange piece on the blue line shown here:



(Picture credit to SPV999)

Youl'l end up with:



Youl’l need to cut away some material on the side where the darts come from to make enough room for the darts, you can see it on this picture:



Make sure that you test “fit” the orange piece before glueing anything!
Clean your cuts so the dart wont be shredded or worse, get caught and jam the drum, also make sure the black dart pusher fits all the time, and all the way to the top

Here’s a way to make the orange piece straight with the center of the drum:





I glued a small piece of plastic with a very little drop of superglue, on top of that a longer piece with a straight edge, in line with the seam on the orange piece, then using that piece as a guidance to glue the orange pieces togetherstraight with the axlehole of the dart wheel on the grey piece.
Strenghten the seams with small pieces of plastic:



Then use a long narrow piece of plastic (I actually used the piece that I used for making the orange piece straight) to fill the hole you made for the darts to move freely into the orange piece and out to the end.

For strenght fill the seam around with some hotglue and your finished!!

Further information: the orange clip part is not glued together like the 6 dart clip, so it feels a bit flimsy.

Up next I will post some gun pictures.........

Okey I know you guys don't like the tactical light, but hey, a Human vs. Zombie at night?
Then it would be usefull..... but the original light is sucking badly, and it being red it won't illuminate much.

There's where my mod comes in:


The finished light on my Vulcan front-end

Materials:

-The tactical light that comes with the Recon-CS6 (doh)

-Any small tubular (led) torch (That fits inside the light housing offcourse!)

Tools:

-Dremel
-Glue
-E-tape

First off open the tactical light, end remove all the light crap thats inside, the stuff inside mine wasn't even screwed in, the holes were there,but the screws weren't there!

Don't throw away the internals yet!!

Remove the orange lens bit to, if you put a led-torch behind it, it lights up like a pumpkin at Halloween.

Then dremel the insides out, until your light fits, if you dremeled to much, use E-tape to stabilize it inside.
(No pictures because not al the led-torches are the same in diameter and length, use your imagination)

This until here has been done before, but it would require you to dril holes in the tactical light shell tot turn on the light, not on my mod:



I used the original switch, how? I will tell you:

De-solder or cut of the wiring from the original switch and battery holder, we will only use the black and the red one:



You need a little bit of electrical knowlege to wire it, but the black wire is connected to the battery (pack) and the switch, the red one is conected to the led-torch housing, through a hole (wich was used for a wrist strap), and the switch. The original switch of the led-torch is punched out.

Now assemble the led-torch n the housing, and re-place the switch and switch knob:



Also you can see the dremeled out, shell above, the connection of the red wire to the led-torch housing, and the cut off battery holder end bit, witch contains the metal nut to remove the original battery cover.

The white plastic piece and the piece of the battery holder are required to hold the switch and the switch knob in place, Notice the litle notches, they hold the piece in place inside the shell.



The switch and knob retaining piece in place.



Closed shell, be sure to remove any ridges and obstructions from the battery cover.



Some more pic's of the finished mod:

On the Vulcan


In the dark, wall is apr. 10 feet away


On 1 of my Mav's


Offcourse, you're smart enough to paint the shell before installing internals, I think I will keep it like it is.

And your'e done! Comments are welcome...