WDoE

Take off all that tape on the barrel. When you cock a Longshot, the barrel travels into the plunger to push the plunger head up. With all that mass on the barrel, you will not be able to get it primed.

I wholeheartedly agree.

I know am I very new, but I have spent the last 2-3 months constantly checking new posts, as well as plundering the archives, like any new user should be doing with the validation period. I don't see how old information is any less relevant, and searching is certainly quicker than waiting for a response to a specific question. I simply do not understand what is going through many of the new users' heads as they make their first few posts. It takes a month or two to even get validated. What are they doing in that time? Someone could read one topic a week and still learn what NOT to do before even being able to post.

Reading back, it is almost painful to see how the admins have changed due to the increasing influx of horrid posts. Lately, I don't even see Talio or Slug's posts besides the warnings or bans. I truly feel sorry for those that have to deal with those sort of users. I even feel guilty for being remotely associated just because of my post count.

* For any new user that might happen to read this post: *

Searching is quicker than making a thread.

When you buy a new blaster, or find a gem at Goodwill, just take a second to look up whatever you might need to know before you even have questions. The modification directory is a great start to finding out your modification options, and possible problems you might encounter. Read every writeup and integration listed that is related to your new blaster, it really doesn't take that long. Then, realize that if you have a problem with said blaster, it is probably a problem someone else has had as well. Search for the name or abbreviation of the blaster and have a whack at the list of topics. Generally, you will find the answer faster than someone could post it. Recently, I found a Hornet AS-6, and skimmed through all 18 pages of the "Hornet" search. You know what? It was fun. Archives are an amazing thing. For such intimidating internals, I had no problem removing some dead pneumatic volume, plugging the pump, and preparing to re-barrel. For the small time spent researching, I probably saved hours of frustration, a very large dent in the wall shaped like a Hornet, and hours spent picking up plastic bits off the floor.

If you're unwilling to spend a few minutes searching for a previously discussed question, and just want to wait longer for the answer to be handed to you, then Nerf modification is probably not the hobby for you. It is definitely a battle of patience and perseverance.

And for god's sake, if you're not able to write coherently, power tools and glue are probably the last thing you should be using.

The coupler doesn't make it much harder to cock. But I have a very strong draw from real bows, so I might not notice a change that would affect someone possibly younger or weaker. I didn't notice a huge change, but if it is a problem you could easily take it out.

I think you should definitely take your BBB apart and put it back together again making sure the two catches are perfectly aligned and the springs are in place. I'm not sure what else to say about that. Perhaps add stronger springs. I've never had a problem with a BBB failing to catch.

And on stretching springs, I'll always advise the same thing: DON'T! When you stretch a spring, it only stays stretched for a few shots, and then ends up weaker than before after returning to the original length. Springs will always weaken over time given regular use, but stretching springs (while giving a brief period of improved performance) will speed up the deterioration. Adding a spacer behind the spring will give the same results without drastically harming the spring.

Now that I'm done everything and have put it together again, I encountered a couple new problems.
1. Sometimes when I pull the handle back, it doesn't lock into place (This happened before I opened it, was wondering if there was any solution)
2. After shooting, the front part doesn't automatically retract like it used to
3. It's really LOUD! I know this is because I removed the AR but is there anything I can do about it? I can just imagine having a Nerf war and having everyone within 500m knowing where I am

Thanks in advance

1. Did you put the two orange nubs back in the gun? They jut out as little circles when it is put together. Are the springs on them? If you lost a spring (like I did) a cut down portion of the original AR spring works. I think many different AR springs would work as well, like a Mav or NF. I'm not sure though.

If these pieces are missing entirely, the gun will not stay back. These are what lock the two halves apart. If they are missing the springs, or just one spring, it might fail to stay cocked.

2. I don't think it is supposed to automatically retract, although mine normally collapses after a shot because I push the two halves together while shooting. I'm not sure exactly what you mean.

3. If it is one loud bang- Stuff any dead space in the body of the gun with FBR. You can also try padding the plunger head with craft foam.

If it is a loud bang and a rattle- The spring is rattling around. You can use 3/4" of a 1/2" PVC coupler behind the spring to not only increase the range because it has a tighter compression when cocked, but also decrease the space that the spring can rattle, because it will always be slightly compressed, even when uncocked.

Well, when the plunger head is off, you can do whatever you want with it. Just so you know, the BBB uses a fairly unique plunger head with no O-rings. I'm not sure If you can find a use for the O-rings. When you see it, you'll know what I mean. I've seen people cut down bulky head of it, I've seen people flip it over, I've seen people fill the lip with hot glue to press the lip out against the plunger wall. I would do some searching for yourself on this one. I can't say for sure which would be best.

I found that the seal was good enough to skip any of this. I didn't cut any off, and I left the disk portion of the AR in, cut a hole in the center, pushed the barrel all the way to that hole, and filled in the dead space with hot glue. If you cut up the plunger head, or remove the first part of the AR, your plunger head will travel too far, and leave the plunger tube and enter the large portion of the barrel, making a very annoying 'Plock' noise, and get slightly stuck.

You should reinforce the plastic washer, and luckily it is very head. I don't remember the washer size, but there is a metal washer that fits perfectly around the tab, but inside of the plastic washer. Get two of these, and sandwich them around the plastic washer. If you're going to glue them to the washer, you'll have to dremel slots into the washer matches the slot in the plastic washer, so that it can snap in and out of place normally.