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Member Since 13 Aug 2006
Offline Last Active Mar 24 2020 11:23 AM

Topics I've Started

Market For Older, Classic Nerf?

11 October 2010 - 07:01 PM

Hi guys,

I was clearing out the attic not too long ago, and came across a plethora of random, older Nerf blasters. Stuff like a Master Blaster (with original box), Bow N Arrow (sawed-off tip for dart firing), and several of the Cyber Strike line (Ratchet Blast, AutoGrip (with box), Rototrack, Strong Arm). There's a few Larami/SuperMaxx blasters as well, and some other random stuff.

My question is, is there any sort of market for any of this? These days I'm sure most of these blasters wouldn't be used in a war, but maybe they have collector's value to someone. Me, I just mostly want to get rid of them because they're taking up a lot of space.

Thanks in advance for any help. :)

Stampede Ar Removal

02 September 2010 - 06:18 PM

This is pretty easy to do, but I'll post a write-up just because I haven't seen anyone post it yet.

Tools needed:

-Small Philips screwdriver
-Power drill or drill press
-3/8" and/or 1/2" drill bit

Here's a picture of the unsuspecting Stampede, along with the tools I used:

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First off, we need to get the beast open. Remove the battery compartment first if you haven't already. Next, remove all the screws you see, which is a tedious and time-consuming process but necessary nonetheless.

After you get it open, be aware that there is a wire connecting the two halves together for the on/off "safety" switch. I simply rotated the half around to gain access to the plunger/bolt sled without having all the screws fall out and without damaging the wire:

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After getting it open, you need to remove the large orange piece covering the plunger assembly. There are about 4-5 screws to remove and then this should pop off, leaving you with this:

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Next, you want to remove the pieces circled in red here:

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After those are gone, you should be able to slide the entire plunger/bolt sled assembly out easily.

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There are two screws holding an end-cap on the rear of the plunger (sorry, no picture). Remove this to remove the spring and plunger from the plunger tube.

You will then see something like this when looking down the plunger tube from the rear:

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...and the front:

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Basically, this is no different from any other air restrictor that Nerf makes. All I did was take a 3/8" drill bit and drilled through the back, exposing the rear of the air restrictor:

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Then, simply use a screwdriver or pliers or whatever you want to break out the dart post from the front of the bolt sled. This is crucial because the rest of the air restrictor will not come out otherwise. I tried drilling through the entire thing, but due to the structure of the air restrictor, the drill bit will get caught on it and it will simply spin around rather than drilling through it.

I then used a 1/2" drill bit through the back of the plunger tube again to clear out more of the air restrictor assembly, and eventually everything fell out and I was left with this:


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(And yes, I cleaned out the plastic particles on the inside before I re-assembled it)

And there you have it. Simple, clean, easy to do. The stock plunger O-ring does not make a great seal, but I didn't have anything to replace it with so I didn't bother with it. Replacing it might net you a bit more range, but it's hard to say how much.

With the air restrictor removal alone, I'd guesstimate that the blaster shoots about 5-10 feet further. It is also a bit more loud, but it's loud in the first place so it's not much of a difference, really.

Questions, comments, concerns? Post them below. Thanks for reading. :lol:

Quick & Easy Rfr/ds Shell Mod

19 May 2010 - 09:05 PM

So I got bored today and decided to do something about my Rapid Fire Rifle only being able to shoot the stock suction cup dart ammo, as this way it is kind of useless. I know that CPVC and other mods have been done on these shells, but this mod is meant to be fast, easy, and require no additional materials to make work. If this has been done before, I apologize, but it did not come up in the Modifications Directory.


Drill with 1/4" drill bit
Electrical Tape (or tape of equal smoothness/thickness)

First, start with an unmodified RFR/DS shell:

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Next, take the shell, turn it over and drill through the center of the hole in the bottom of the shell. Make sure to keep the drill bit straight as you go through. If you did it right, the entire post assembly inside the dart should simply fall out the front, leaving you with this (sorry for the blurry pic, but you get the idea)

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Now, you should be left with a black circular piece of plastic inside the dart which is held up by a spring. This is part of the "air restrictor" assembly inside the dart, but since you just drilled out the center of it, you can simply leave it in the shell. I tried to remove it from the first shell and ended up botching it, destroying the shell. It's not hurting anything by being in there, so just leave it.

The next issue I ran into was that both the stock darts as well as Stefans/Streamlines would fall out of the shell, because the shell diameter was not tight enough against the dart to hold it in (that is what the post was for, apparently). So, to fix this, simply cut a small (~1/2") strip of electrical tape, and put it inside the shell just below the top opening. You should end up with something that looks like this:

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Now, the darts should fit snugly in the shells without falling out. And...That's it! You're done. You should be able to use Stefans with the shells now. I also noticed a fairly significant increase in range due to drilling out the air restrictors, as well as slightly widening the hole in the back of the shells using the 1/4" drill bit.

IMPORTANT NOTE: One unfortunate issue is that normal-sized Streamlines will not work with the RFR, because they are just slightly too long to fit up into the breech cavity. You can either cut down your Streamlines by a small amount (I'm guessing somewhere between 1/4" and 1/2" would work), or, if you're like me and don't want to mutilate your darts, you can just use either the stock darts, or your own (shorter than Streamline) Stefan darts, which is what I chose to do. In the end it looks like this:

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Hope this helps some people out with making these guns a little bit more useful. Questions or comments are welcome, though it's a fairly straightforward and simple procedure.