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Member Since 08 Feb 2009
Offline Last Active May 26 2017 06:23 AM

Topics I've Started

Hornet Wrist Mounted Blaster

14 August 2010 - 10:24 AM

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You could also call it Megaman, or Iron Man or Metroid, or even those stupid things from Yu-Gi-Oh season 1. However you want to spin it, this is really fun to create and use.

First, you have to know how a Hornet works. The tanks use a back pressure system to fire. Don’t know what that is? Here’s a crude diagram.

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Ok, so we need three things: a back pressure tank, a pump, and a release valve. Any subsequent tanks can be wired in series, so they all fill at the same rate and will be released at (roughly) the same time. This is exactly what the Hornet’s stock kill-all trigger does.

The grand diagram would look like this:

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Plus or minus, depending on how many barrels you can fit.

So, here’s what you need:

A cloth glove
One 3” PVC coupler
Some 1” thick foam
3/16” tees
One 3/16” elbow
One 3/16” barb to ¼” male thread
One air blow gun (can be found at WalMart or Ace, usually with car supplies)
About 5’ of 3/16” tubing
Zip ties

For fun:
12 Volt battery
A few LEDs
Spray paint

First, you have to get the coupler sized right. It needs to fit your wrist tight, but you still have to be able to slip it off your hand. For mine, I cut down 1” thick foam into a 4” by 3” rectangle, and cut the rectangle in half so it was only ½” thick.

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And glued it onto the PVC coupler with zap-a-gap. You could probably use high strength super glue or even hot glue.

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Now that you know the size you have to work with, prep the Hornet.

Cut the tubing to the Hornet barrels, leaving as much of the tubing attached to the barrels as possible. Cut the barrels apart from each other, so you’re left with something like this:

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Using a screw driver, take off the barrel and gray shield, by prying it off. (thanks to Just Some Bob and deadshooter711 for the advise).

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The barrel will pop off and leave you with just the tank.

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Cut some CPVC and glue them to the tanks. 4 inches seems best. I put some hot glue in the base to set them and level them, then sealed around the crease with plumbers goop.

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While those dry, move on to the pump. Seal of OP valve

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And if it fits, glue the pump on the inside of the coupler. Dremel as necessary. If not, just glue it on the outside. Lucky me, I have small hands.

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Once that is FIRMLY in place and whatever glue you used is dry, move on to the glove. Mark it at a comfortable position and drill holes to literally stitch it to the PVC.

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(Also, that’s a battery case under the string, which I’m going to use to power LEDs). One last piece. Take the air gun and use some gas (yellow) tape to seal on the brass barb.

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This is also where I put the momentary switch for the LEDs.

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(hold please)

Hornet "tank" Questions

10 August 2010 - 11:38 AM

I know the Hornet tanks are back-pressure systems, and I know how that works. That said, is there any sure way to safely remove the ARs without breaking the valve? What is the "stop drilling!" point on them?

Also, has anyone tested the max PSI on a Hornet? The only thing I really have to go by is the OPR valve on the pump gives out at around 6-7 pumps, about 1 pump per tank. I see some people pump it up to about 30 however. Anyone every had one explode?

Drain Blaster Pump Relocation?

03 June 2010 - 04:45 PM

I finally got a Drain Blaster ($10 in the trash pile at Ace!). I have an idea for an integration, but I'd like to move the pump to underneath it (via attaching a length of hose). However, I would like to know where I should start cutting and if it's even possible. They're plastic-welded shut, and I'd hate to cut through a seal or something.

Internal pics would be awesome if someone has a couple (post them in the internals thread while you're at it!).


"new" Maverick Hex Design?

26 December 2009 - 08:20 PM

I'm creating a Crystal Tri-Mav (awesome, I know), and I noticed something...

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When did they change the design? The circular design looks more stable and smooth, therefore I assume the hex design is the new one...

Raider Cs-35: Overview / Overhaul

07 August 2009 - 10:09 AM

I recently acquired a Raider at Target. Many of you probably know more then you care to about it already, so I’ll jump in and field questions as they come.

In the mean time, I’ve gone Raider happy :)

Price: $30 USD
Length: 21”
Weight: 3lb-ish fully loaded
Comfy rating: Very comfy to hold and fire :)
Stock ranges: 25’
Dart capacity: 35 round drum clip / or / 10 round clip
Attachments: 2 N-Strike rail systems and adjustable stock
Power: Spring
Rate of Fire: 35 rounds in 12 seconds
Firing modes: Manual or semi-auto

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--== 35 Round Drum Overview ==--

I didn’t even think about interest in the drum clip till Arconious asked.




Slightly unloaded (so you can see the rotation):

The drum is about 11” from the edge of the drum to the end of the clip.
Loaded, it weighs almost as much as the gun itself.
Uses a constant force spring to rotate (thanks pjotrkuh / Just Some Bob)

The black knob in the center is a jam release. It wiggles the entire mechanism. How effective it is, I have no idea as it’s never jammed (pretty good considering I’ve emptied all 35 rounds over 10 times already).

The drum fits nicely into the Recon. I don’t have a Longshot to attach it to, but it claims to fit on the box.

It actually feels a little weird on the Raider, because it mounts on the side and make it side heavy. However, the high rate of fire and relatively low range make it necessary. It does mount securely though, every bit as secure as a regular clip in a Recon. But if you want to use a regular clip, you can.

It feels a bit big for the Recon. I keep thinking I’m going to hit it with my hand when I cock it. It would probably fit well in a Longshot, but your boltsled will probably break before you get all 35 rounds through. :P

--== Stock Overview ==--

I know, a section for the stock, this is getting out of hand. But there are a couple things about the stock that I wanted to share.



Taken apart:

It has four settings, with 1” between settings, only the last and full extension is actually worth using.

The stock is the same length as the Recon stock, about 10 ½” when fully extended.
Unlike the Recon stock, it’s very sturdy. You can actually lean into it without it bending.
It’s fully compatible with the Recon, but old style Recon’s “ARMED” bar wont fit inside because of a little wall about 4” back (easily fixed. See “Fixing” the Stock section later).

Because of the long hollow bar, the first thing I thought of was integrations. The bar is 1 ¼” inner diameter. More then enough for an Air Tech 2000 tank, a Secret Shot Pocket Blaster (Secret Strike), or, with a little work for the trigger, even a Nitefinder. Just... glue the stock in place so you don’t accidently collapse it and crush your integration.

--== Step 1: Disassembly ==--

The Raider does not have any plastic “welds” or clamp pieces, so there is no cutting involved in taking it apart.

If you assemble the Raider before opening it up, you’ll have to attach the clip holder. It snaps in and there’s no way to get it back off. Don’t worry though, it doesn’t hide any screws.

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First remove the two screws on the back gray piece (stock clip and priming guard) and the five screws on the front priming handle. There’s no spring in the front handle, so nothing will jump out at you.

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In no order, take out the remaining 14 screws on the main body.

A couple things may spring out (like the trigger, that isn’t held down by anything), but it wont be anything major.

--== Step 2: Internals! ==--

What a lot a people are waiting for... high-res internal pics! Due to their size, I’ll just post links.



Close up (at rest):


Close up (cocked):


Trigger relaxed:


Trigger pulled:


It’s very similar to the Recon, only not quite as complex and not NEARLY as hard to get back together.

It’s been a while since I’ve opened a Recon, but the spring appears to be roughly the same size, but weaker.

Compared to a Recon spring. Notice there isn’t much difference other then the Raider spring is shinier:


Compared to a #49 Ace spring (Nitefinder replica):


However, the plunger catch and trigger release are much stronger then most guns I’ve opened recently, making double springing a very real possibility with little if any reinforcement. Though, for the little extra range it might get, the wear on the parts would be high, so I’m not sure if it would be worth it or not depending on how you implement it.

--== Step 3: Air Restrictor Removal ==--

Now down to something real. Take out the four silver screws by the plunger.

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With them gone, you should be able to lift the entire mechanism out of the gun. The air restrictor is just like the Recon, its in the plunger tube.

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Grab a ½” wood boring drill bit and go to town. Drill it out till you can see straight through.

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Reassemble the mechanism, using the internal pics as guides if need be.
Increases range by about 10’ with stock streamlines, though I’m noticing pretty good fishtailing, so if you were to use weighted darts you might get even more.

--== Step 4: Plugging a random hole ==--

As I was inspecting the boltsled/plunger assembly, I noticed a small hole in the side of the plunger tube.

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I’m pretty sure Recons have this hole as well, and I looked for one on here earlier but I missed it.

Seal it with hot glue or some epoxy. Let it dry, and sand it down level as the dart clip has to slide over it.

--== Step 5: Priming Bar Reinforcement ==--

Thanks to RVMVTVProductions asking about the strength of the priming bar, I noticed that, while the bar itself is very strong and I don’t believe it to be in need of reinforcement, the little screw that holds it to the boltsled does.

Take the screw off.

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Note all the void space in the chamber. Fill it up with your epoxy of choice

(hot glue would “probably” work, considering stock I don’t think there’s much a chance of this breaking, but with bumping into it constantly while messing with the internals, I wont take any chances. There’s no reason not to use epoxy)

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REMEMBER that the end of the bar has to be facing away from the boltsled (see internal pics). Screw it back down and let it sit.

--== Step 6: Cushioning the Plunger ==--

One of the first things you’ll notice is the loud plunger head smashing into plastic. Once you take out the air restrictors, it’ll make you grit your teeth just waiting for something to snap.

Best way to fix this is to cushion the plunger with a small ring of foam. Now, the plunger coming all the way down against the seal is important to the reloading mechanism, so the foam has be very thin and fairly firm.

I still have my Wayne Tech Tri-Fire Blaster darts sitting around, and they are perfect size and density. Cut it to size and carefully glue it just above the o-ring.

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--== Step 7: Sound Reduction ==--

Even with foam on the plunger, there’s a fair amount of rattling and vibrations. Given the range of the gun, sneaking up on people is going to be pretty important as you’re not hitting them from a distance.

Cut up your favorite foam backer rod and glue it to anything that doesn’t move.

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--== Step 8: Removing the Priming Lock ==--

This is totally Echnalaid doing. Removing this lock will allow you to load the gun even if it’s already cocked.

Before removing this, after you cock it, you cant move the front handle until you fire it, meaning if you cock it without loading a dart, you have to fire it before re-priming it.

Once you remove this, you can re-load a dart even after cocking it. There’s no worry about breaking anything by accidentally pulling the trigger either, as you cant pull the trigger when the boltsled breech is open.

Simply remove the piece circled here:


Take out the screws, and it supposedly just falls out.

--== Step 9: “Fixing” the Stock ==--

The stock is one of my most favorite parts of this gun. What’s wrong with the stock? It has this little wall partway back that blocks the “ARMED” bar on old style Recons (like mine :( ). It also prevents the clever double springing method by DeceitfulSteve.

Fixing this is very simple. Get a 1” wood boring drill bit, rev it up and shove it down the stock’s shaft.

I don’t have a “before” pic (thought I did, but I cant find it), so here’s the after at least:

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--== Step 10: Double Springing ==--

I owe this section to DeceitfulSteve’s method used on the Recon. Alright, my final mod on this gun. At first, I was thinking +Bow spring, but it was way too hard. I couldn’t even use it with the Recon (which has more torque in the cocking).

Finally settled on a Ace #49 spring (or Nitefinder spring).

Cut a small piece of ¾” PVC and sand down the center till you can easily fit the spring inside. Put a PVC end cap on one side to seal it (I used a reducer, since it’s what I had on hand). Sand the entire thing down till it fits snuggly inside the stock.


Push the entire thing into the stock all the way to the wall that we sanded out.


Cut a hole in the back of the plunger guard on the Raider till it’s pretty much smooth with the side (so the spring doesn’t get hung up).


Put the stock back together, put your spring inside (you can glue it if you want), and snap it onto the back!

This should increase ranges 10-15’ with Streamlines.
Or at least it did mine.


Add some awesome LEDs on the front, and a switch on the handle,


and I’ve done all I can think of with this gun.

My final thoughts on this gun is it would be a good all-round weapon, for rounds that you’re not quite sure what you’re getting yourself into. It doesn’t have much range, but enough to get by; isn’t horribly accurate, but it can be fired very, very quickly and in a very controlled fashion; and it’s fast to reload (assuming you have another clip pre-loaded).

Questions? Comments? Flames? Witty one liners?