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Member Since 11 Apr 2006
Offline Last Active Dec 24 2008 05:08 PM

Topics I've Started

Happy B-day Vacc And Talio

17 August 2007 - 06:03 PM

Just wanted to wish you guys a Happy Birthday. After all, the people who contribute alot of time and energy deserve to be recognized once in a while.
Happy Birthday.


27 July 2007 - 11:18 AM

So, I was talking to Sluggy, and I was like "damn, that's a kick-ass thang," but after a while, I was wanting more.
I was looking at the valve in my AT3K, and said "Promy, that's what your looking for," so I decided to build this.

Full credit goes to CaptainSlug for the original design, and for buidling something that finally prompted me to try and revise and improve.


It's the dchap-P

For dirt cheap homemade air powered - Prometheus' version.

It uses:
2x 5/16" washers
2x 5/16" nuts (special ones)
1x 1/2" SCH 40 coupler
2x 1/2" PVC endcap
1/2" 200 PSI thinwall PVC
1/2" SCH 40 PVC
5/16" ID o-ring
5/8" ID, 13/16" OD, 3/32" thick o-ring
1/4" drill bit (HSS was used)
5/16" drill bit (HSS was used)
drill/drill press
some type of grinding tool (dremel was used)
Plumber's Goop (suitable PVC and rubber bonding material can be used as substitute)

Mine is very different, but builds on CaptainSlug's original design. I use 2 o-rings to make a seal. One is 5/16"" ID, and the other is 5/8" ID, 13/16" OD, 3/32" thickness. The reason I used these is that the 5/16"" ID ring seals around the bolt, which actuates the movement of air. The second o-ring seals agains the other end of the bolt, against a special type of nut. I have no idea what typ of nut it is, other than it is a spare from my garden tractor when I removed the mower deck. It's pretty standard on most lawnmowers, to just trading for a regular nut won't hurt.

Here is the first design I made, which is very close to the design I'm using.


The design on the right is the one that I am using, but instead of using the fender washer (purple/pink), I used the nut and o-ring.

Here is another picture of all the parts disassembled. The spring is one I found at my local hardware store, and I cut it in half for this purpose. Measures for the spring will follow.

The valve currently can be separated into 2 pieces, as seen here.

Here is the piece that I ground the end off, and inserted into the hole drilled into the side of the valve.
It is barbed on one end, and I have no idea what it would be used for. I am using 3/8" OD vinyl tubing on it now.

More detail such as measures on the PVC lengths will follow.

Brass Soldering

21 March 2007 - 07:53 PM

So I was at a hobby store a while back, one which happened to be the nearest by. I noticed they had small sheets of brass, approximately 4" (10cm) by 12" (30cm). It was somewhat expensive, but still cheaper than polycarbonate (generic Lexan). I do not know machining and fabrication of alloys other than steel, and some stainless. I also know that brass is an alloy of copper and zinc. I am pondering if brass can be effectively soldered, such as I can make a brass magazine with some tubing for ends and sheets for sides. Or perhaps, solder a peice of 9/16" onto some 17/32" for a coupler, to make a barrel longer than 12" (the brass I get is 12" long, no longer). I am putting this up to anybody who has some information about such a process, as my knowledge in this branch of fabrication is very limited.

Good 'ole Stefans

14 March 2007 - 02:42 PM

I read on ebay that normal tagger darts will not work with a Fireflu Rev-8. Will stefans? I don't want to go and buy a gun if stefans will not work. Obviously they will not glow in the dark, but regardless. I don't own a Rev-8 yet, but I might be interested in purchasing one if it is stefan compatible.

Pvc Pressure Tank

06 February 2007 - 03:19 PM

Ok, I've heard that SCH 40 PVC works better for a pressure tank than the thinwall PVC, although the thinwall is rated up to 200psi. What do you think should be used, cost is irrelevant, but safety is not.