First of all. This is NOT a full blown write up, but the belt blaster has been modded in the past already, so the basics of getting it open have been covered. A quick search will turn that up if you need it. Second, apologies in advance for my horrible photography skills.
Moving along I first want to point out I did http://nerfhaven.com...hl=belt blaster that to the shells before beginning.
Now it's time for pics.
First off the springs.
I replaced the stock spring with a cut down nitefinder spring, and a skinnier hardware store spring inside of it. Not pictured, I also lubed up the tube and bored out the end for better airflow. As you can see I also replaced the O ring (the old one didn't take to the lube well) and added a second one. This gives the thing some serious oomph.
By the way if you want to respring the thing, use a flathead screwdriver to pull the pin holding the plunger tube on by sliding it under one of the caps. It's similar to pulling the cylinder pin from a maverick.
Moving, along. The Guts, and the only guts any zombies are going to see when this puppy is around.
Everything is reinforced obviously, the locks have been removed allowing it to be de-primed without having to dry fire, moving parts lubed, and most obviously you can see that's a longshot stock on the back. More about that later.
Moving right along, let's see the whole thing assembled.
The Zombie "Cure." Of course there's only one cure for a zombie. The doctor is in, so let's "treat" those poor bastards.
Now load the "cure" up with plenty of "medicine" (yes I misspelled it. I'll repaint that one later)
The top
With instructions "Directly to forehead" and you'll note I also integrated an LED book light into the handle. It's pretty bright and handy for both illuminating and blinding.
The bayonet offers a little backup should 30 shots prove insufficient.
The backside
I ran out of white paint so this side is just black and red. It's okay, the whole thing is meant to look kind of slapdash anyway, like a guy who's been up to his neck in the undead a little too long, customized his weapon as he becomes a bit unhinged.
Cured.
It consistently gets 40-50' with rare shots up to 60'. I'm quite happy with it, but I'd like to do a nice drum mod to make that belt more stable before I take it into action.
- NerfHaven
- → Viewing Profile: Topics: Vinnie D
Vinnie D
Member Since 07 Oct 2008Offline Last Active Apr 21 2011 07:01 AM
Community Stats
- Group Members
- Active Posts 127
- Profile Views 4,895
- Member Title Member
- Age 44 years old
- Birthday November 18, 1980
User Tools
Latest Visitors
Topics I've Started
My Belt Blaster
04 March 2010 - 06:30 AM
Rebarrelling Buzzbee Belt Blaster Shells
29 October 2009 - 02:23 AM
I've seen few attempts at modding the Belt Blaster, and even fewer that focus on the shells, so I thought since I actually pulled it off successfully, I'd make this my first real write up. Apologies in advance for the blurriness of some of the pictures.
First of all. Don't do this.
Cutting off the front removes a ridge that is needed for the chain to feed properly. Thankfully I only made this mistake once, and as long as good shells are on either side of it in the chain, this shell still feeds and fires properly.
Now on to actual modding. Here we have one of those tricky bastards.
If you look very closely at the base you'll see a small ridge where there is a cap glued into place on the inside of the shell. Start by making a small cut along that ridge.
It only needs to be deep enough to give you something to dig into. Now insert the point of a knife into that cut and using very light pressure work the knife in.
Remember LIGHT pressure. When the plastic gives it will give suddenly. I have a stab wound on my left hand to prove it. Just work at it gradually until your knife slides in. I'd really advise using a smaller knife than the one I'm using. This is pretty dangerous.
Once the knife is in start sliding it around the edge to cut the cap off. You don't need to make a straight cut, in fact you'll probably slip and go from cutting under the ridge to over it. that's not a bad thing, in fact it will probably make things faster, and help you line the cap up when you're putting it back.
Behold. Ye olde guts. Look how much dead space that AR created, almost an inch. With that cockblocking bastard out of the way, you can get your darts further in, use steffans, or streamlines. Yours will look slightly different from mine if you're going from stock shells. I drilled out the pegs earlier.
Now you can cut the entire peg off down to the base. I'd aslo advise carving that hole out wider. (also done previously), and you should have this nice clean cap with nothing sticking out.
Now measure out some CPVC or barrel material of choice, put some hot glue around the end that will face the front of the shell. and pus it as far in as it will go. The glue around the front should be thick so it can smear around the inside and fill in to make a better seal.
Lastly put a ring of glue around the back of the pipe and pop the cap back on, push down hard to get it all the way down, remove any extra glue, smooth out the edges and you're done.
Now just do it 29 more times and you have a full chain. I'd advise setting up an assembly line process to make it quicker. Cutting out all your barrels ahead of time will make things much easier.
And there you have it. Go shoot some zombies.
First of all. Don't do this.
Cutting off the front removes a ridge that is needed for the chain to feed properly. Thankfully I only made this mistake once, and as long as good shells are on either side of it in the chain, this shell still feeds and fires properly.
Now on to actual modding. Here we have one of those tricky bastards.
If you look very closely at the base you'll see a small ridge where there is a cap glued into place on the inside of the shell. Start by making a small cut along that ridge.
It only needs to be deep enough to give you something to dig into. Now insert the point of a knife into that cut and using very light pressure work the knife in.
Remember LIGHT pressure. When the plastic gives it will give suddenly. I have a stab wound on my left hand to prove it. Just work at it gradually until your knife slides in. I'd really advise using a smaller knife than the one I'm using. This is pretty dangerous.
Once the knife is in start sliding it around the edge to cut the cap off. You don't need to make a straight cut, in fact you'll probably slip and go from cutting under the ridge to over it. that's not a bad thing, in fact it will probably make things faster, and help you line the cap up when you're putting it back.
Behold. Ye olde guts. Look how much dead space that AR created, almost an inch. With that cockblocking bastard out of the way, you can get your darts further in, use steffans, or streamlines. Yours will look slightly different from mine if you're going from stock shells. I drilled out the pegs earlier.
Now you can cut the entire peg off down to the base. I'd aslo advise carving that hole out wider. (also done previously), and you should have this nice clean cap with nothing sticking out.
Now measure out some CPVC or barrel material of choice, put some hot glue around the end that will face the front of the shell. and pus it as far in as it will go. The glue around the front should be thick so it can smear around the inside and fill in to make a better seal.
Lastly put a ring of glue around the back of the pipe and pop the cap back on, push down hard to get it all the way down, remove any extra glue, smooth out the edges and you're done.
Now just do it 29 more times and you have a full chain. I'd advise setting up an assembly line process to make it quicker. Cutting out all your barrels ahead of time will make things much easier.
And there you have it. Go shoot some zombies.
- NerfHaven
- → Viewing Profile: Topics: Vinnie D
- Terms of Service and Privacy Policy
- Code of Conduct ·