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Darken

Member Since 04 Oct 2008
Offline Last Active Aug 04 2014 03:44 PM

Topics I've Started

E-tape

18 August 2009 - 06:45 PM

I've noticed that when I use e-tape, after a week or so it starts oozing sticky black residue that is just plain annoying. It's screwing up e-tape handles and a bunch of other stuff I make. But then, I live in Texas in 100 degree weather. Is the weather what's jacking up my tape, or does this happen all the time?

Lanard Sawed Off Hand Cannon Modifitcation

24 July 2009 - 10:17 AM

Sorry about pic size, photobucket has issues with resizing.

Ok, since I got beat to showing the Hand Cannon, I decided to be the first one to mod it. So here we go.

Gun: Lanard Sawed-Off Shotgun

Tools:
Dremel/cutting tool
Power drill
Screwdriver
Wire Cutters


Materials:
Hotglue
Electrical tape
Steel wire
1/2 PVC coupler
Recon spring


Take apart your gun and go straight to the orange turret piece in the front. Unscrew the little orange ring with the four screws and take it off. Then take off the air restrictors.
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You'll come out to a little peg held in there. Cut it out and all the bits holding it in, and smooth it out:
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Now get the air restrictor piece you took out and drill through it, smoothing is not necessary:
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Once the air restrictors are removed, you're going to need some wire, electrical tape, hot glue, and a dremel. Take the wire and bend it to fit inside the 1/2" PVC coupler as a dart stop:
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Now put it in and clip the ends that are sticking out of the coupler with your wire cutters. Use electrical tape to hold it in place, glue it if you feel the need:
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Now, put that aside and unscrew these screws, and take off the outer barrel:
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You'll be left with the inner barrel. Cut it off and glue the coupler in it's place, with the side with the wire towards the inside of the gun:
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The coupler fits pretty well inside the outer barrel, but not snug enough, so wrap the top of the coupler with electrical tape until it's a tight fit with the outer barrel:
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Now screw it all back together and you have your couplered turret assembly finished.
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Now for the plunger head:
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The seal is quite horrible, so you're going to need to improve it, but hold on there. We have to get rid of some dead space too. Fill all those empty places in the plunger head with hot glue. Then, wrap electrical tape 1 1/2-3/4 times around the head, whichever makes the fit you want, leaving the excess electrical tape up on the plunger head. Then fill in the gap between the excess electrical tape and the plunger head with hot glue. In the end it should look something like this:
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And now for your springs. The one in there is beefy as is, but lets shove some more power into it. Stick a recon spring in it and you'll be good.
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Now put it all back together and you're done.

Lanard Sawed Off Hand Cannon, New Info!

23 July 2009 - 09:15 PM

New Update Mod: Ok, I just did an air restrictor removal and got at least 10-15 more feet, most likely more. Range tests and further mods to come tomorrow.

UPDATE: Okay, on the right is the LS spring, on the left, the Hand Cannon. That's one beefy spring.
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Edit: GAAAAHHH I GOT BEAT TO IT BY SO LITTLE! Ah well, I still got plenty of info on it. More to come!

Well everyone knows the new 09 Lanard guns are now available on Amazon, and lucky for me, I checked it on the day they were released and ordered one. Amazingly it got here in one day, and now I present to you, the Lanard Hand Cannon:

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Here's out little air restrictor:
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To my great surprise it actually uses megas, which are almost stefan-like, except with a plastic dome. The plastic dome, though, is basically just like other darts, with a rod glued to the inside of the dart holding it in.

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As for ranges, it seems to consistently get around 20'. It's okay, but then, it does fire megas, and it's completely unmodded. I can see a lot of power going into this.

Then the next thing that got me was the priming mechanism. When I pull it back it made this strange almost cracking noise, which I soon found out to be a power control. You can pull it back to certain amounts to control the power. Though, if you only pull it back to the first or second notch, it wont even get the dart out, but it's still a cool feature to it. If this thing can get into very high ranges, you'll be able to have control over say if you want to shoot 40 feet, or 70 feet. I'm gonna see, after I've modded it, if I can mark the different ranges on the pumping bar to basically be a speedometer for ranges.

And the last thing I noticed was the back. You might have noticed another Lanard gun looks just like it on Amazon, except it has a stock and a turret firing three darts at a time. On the back of this one is a spot that looks like where you can attach a stock, so it may be compatible with the two guns:
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I'll soon be opening it up to give internal pics.

And sorry for the outrageous picture sizes, photobucket has serious issues with resizing.

Recon Ball Launcher Attachment

01 July 2009 - 02:53 PM

Okay, um...edit again, the photos suddenly resized correctly, so...yeah. Cool.

But anyway, onto the mod.

Ok this is a simple mod mostly for indoor wars. It's basically a Nerf M203 grenade launcher using the pump ball gun and a Recon barrel. I was going to do this for a Longshot putting the ball launcher where the bi-pod was, but later found out it'd already been done, so I thought I'd make this.

Ok you start out by opening your ball launcher and you come out with these two main simple parts:
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It's just a cylinder and the tube, with all the sealing and other random stuff thats already attached. What you going to do from there is cut at two specific spots on the barrel to shorten it. You won't need to shorten the spring. First, cut around right above the part of the side of barrel that's pushed out in kinda a long rectangular shape that was meant to guide the barrel along in the original shell:
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Then, cut under the orange bit thats at the muzzle under the barrel:
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Now you got three pieces of the barrel, the bottom, the middle, and the muzzle. You can throw away the middle part of the barrel because you won't need it, or maybe use it for something else. The bottom and the muzzle you're going to glue together using whatever glue you want, though preferably epoxy because it sets and cures quickly, and keeps a strong bind on whatever you're gluing. I used Plumbers Goop due to me hating epoxy at the time because of previous failures.

Once the adhesive has dried, get the white cylinder and hotglue it to the back nub on the bottom of the detachable recon barrel. Stick hotglue anywhere the white cylinder is touching the barrel:
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Now, back to the barrel, we need to give it some better grip so that it's easier to use the ball gun, so we'll add a handle. I just grabbed the handle from and LSFG and took out the trigger. Hot glue it to the front of the barrel. the front bit of the handle should be touching where you glued the two halves of the barrel together:
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You'll also notice the e-tape on the barrel. Well, the e-tape at the top is covering the spot I glued the halves together. I'm not sure why I put it there considering it won't help anything if the adhesive breaks, but oh well. The e-tape around the back of the barrel is to make the barrel snug with the white barrel so it's not joggling around in it, and to keep it going in straight. I put little strips of foam under the e-tape to make the snug fit. If you really wanted a perfect snug fit you could do this all the way around the bottom of the barrel, but I didn't feel like doing so because it didn't seem worth it.

Now you're done! Your finished product should look something like this:

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I haven't been able to test this well due to there being residue from the glue that was inside the barrel, so the orange bit pushing the balls out is often getting stuck, so I need to sand it out before I can give definitive tests. so far from my tests that worked though, it seems to get general ball launcher ranges.

Questions/Comments/Flames?

Opening A Mat20

24 June 2009 - 02:53 PM

I'm trying to open the front half of my Motorized Auto Tommy 20 (the part that has the fly wheels), but the fore grip just will not open. Every other part of it opens smoothly, but the back part of the fore grip/bottom of the hole that the peg on the end of the clip goes into just seems to be held together by something internal, and I've already made a crack in the fore grip trying to pry it open.

I'd post a picture of the part, but the only computer that works with my camera is broken (stupid Macs).

So does anyone know how to get it open?